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1

The thing I tend to start with with derailleurs is (same applies for front and back): Make sure gear changers are set so that you'd be in the smallest gear (e.g. smallest ring on freewheel / smallest ring on front mech - i.e. least tension on gear cable. It looks like that's the case from your photos - front mech is on 1 and rear mech is on 7. Undo screw ...


2

You need to read about derailleur adjustments. The first thing to do is check that the rear derailleur is not bent. If it is, you need to unbend it. Once that has been determined, you can read up on rear derailleur adjustments and front derailleur adjustments. I'm including cable tension as a derailleur adjustment. Other problems may be cable friction ...


10

This is not going to work. You won't permanently change the shape of the rim by just smooshing it between two concrete discs, as in order to permanently bend metal you need to exceed the yield stress of the metal and plastically deform it. This means that to bend something to a shape, it has to be precisely bent further than its ultimate designed bend, then ...


1

I'm not a metallurgist, but I would think that once the rim is bent enough that you're looking to straighten it, it's been weakened enough that I wouldn't trust it for riding on.


2

The standard for what "true" means varies by mechanic and the intended use of the wheel. A perfectly true wheel, in the mechanical sense, may not be attainable. Roundness and later runout are measurable to .001 millimeters using commonly available shop tools. Most mechanics do not consider that tolerance necessary, but as that is the limit of the tools, ...



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