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Wheelbuilding machines can be configured for a .1mm precision. But the choice of tolerance is up to the wheel factory. Best machine-built wheels are trued to this maximum of .1mm precision, which is pretty good. Most man-built wheels have a run-out around .5 mm when new. But when you are building your own wheel, or you are fixing it, a tolerance of around 1 ...


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If your wheel is trued (lateral movement) to within 0.5mm it is considered good. Same 0.5mm tolerance for the roundness of the wheel. Just remember that you may need to take the "stress" out of the wheel as the spokes can wind up with the torque applied to the nipple. It is that pinging sound that happens when a freshly built wheel is ridden for first ...


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If only one side is creaking, it's probably the pedal or crank arm not screwed tight. So first tight them up (for the pedal you probably need a special wrench, for crank arm it's a 8mm hex or 14mm wrench). You should tight it as fast as you can, as it can brake the crank arm. When both sides are creaking, it could be that both sides are loose, but it also ...


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There are quite a few options here, and this troubleshoot resource, http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html#bottom may help shed light on why more information would help us identify the problem. You may even be able to identify the problem yourself with that page and the glossery http://sheldonbrown.com/glossary.html



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