Hot answers tagged

23

Keep your front brake. It does the most work, it will stop you much faster than your rear brake ever could hope to. Take a look at a motorcycle, the front brakes are always much larger than the rear. Whenever you brake, on a bicycle, motorcycle, in a car, more weight is transfered to the front wheels, so the front tire has more traction to stop you with. ...


22

You can probably change the stem to something shorter with more rise and not have anything else to change. This may be enough to relieve the back pressure and the drop bars will give you more hand positions which I've always found easier on my carpal tunnel. Changing the handle bars to flat bars will mean you have to get a set of shifters and brake levers ...


13

The pedals you have are known as mountain bike clipless pedals. They have a platform side where you can use normal sneakers/shoes to ride, and the other side with the "hump" is the clipless side. There are special shoes with cleats on the bottom that attach to the pedals,and they're there to increase your pedaling capacity by allowing you to pull up on them ...


11

Generally speaking your off hand should be the front brake, so if you're right handed the front brake should be the left. They can be set up either way, though, especially if you're using cable-driven (non-hydraulic) brakes. Even with hydraulics you should have no problem making the right hand brake the rear. I would highly advise this, as in a panic ...


10

I agree with the others, it doesn't seem like stickers should be a problem. My helmet has stickers on the shell added by the manufacturer - clearly they were added make me ride faster. Paint is a different story... Polystyrene (aka Styrofoam) and certain other plastics can be damaged by the solvents used in paints, like some spray paints. I believe ...


10

What he hammered down is the star nut. It's a gription (yes I made that word up) device that serves as an anchor point in the steer tube to allow the top cap to properly compress the headset during a headset adjustment. Old or damaged star nuts are often driven all the way through the steer tube to remove them (that's why your steer tube is open at the ...


9

If you adjust a bike to the max and its still significantly too small, you should sell the bike and get a new bike. There are extra long seatposts, and extra long quill stems and what not, but in all likelihood its not really worth it if the bike doesn't fit with the normal seatpost + stem; the other parts of geometry like top tube length are probably too ...


8

Difficult to say without knowing more about the bike, but I'd trade it in for a better bike; Huffy has a rep for low-end, tank-like bikes. From your description, you'd need to replace the frame and front fork to see any significant weight savings. Something with an aluminum frame like a hybrid bike would probably be easier to carry up the stairs, even ...


8

As Blam and Batman have already suggested you will not go faster. The main reason is that your top speed is determined by the number of teeth on the smallest rear cog. The smallest cog available on a normal cluster / cassette has 11 teeth. If your smallest cog already has 11 teeth, then you will definitely not go faster with a new one. If it currently ...


7

I would consider changing your crankset to a true compact, 50t/34t, and running an 11/25 rear cassette. Campy actually made a specific derailleur for running a compact front, because they said that the 50t doesn't work well with the standard front derailleur (that may be a function of the tooth differential, so it may not apply if you leave the 39t in ...


7

I would consider looking at a used later model bike.The improvements made in the last 18 years are worth the money.A decent fork can run hundreds of dollars not including installation. Check with your local bike shop for used bikes or craigs list if you keep it local so you can see before you buy.Bikepedia is a good reference to make sure you have an idea ...


6

After some more searching, it looks like I'm looking for a layback seatpost, and they're available for purchase on eBay.


6

This is an extremely bad idea, and it may or may not be illegal where you live. It's pretty common for the law to require you to be able to lock up both wheels on flat dry pavement. Regardless, both brakes are important, and you shouldn't remove one for something a silly as weight reduction. The contact patch on your tires is small enough already without ...


6

One of the main problems with converting an old bike is the width of the headset. Old rigid mountain bikes[1] commonly have a 1" headset while modern suspension bikes have a 1 1/8" diameter headset. Suspension forks are mostly for 1 1/8" headsets so fitting suspension to an old rigid mountain bike is normally a non starter for that simple reason. The ...


6

Getting the weight of your back is a good idea. Another thing to try is some back/core strengthening exercises. Much better than getting some hybrid good for nothing cycle! I am hesitant to suggest exercises as I am not a doctor but there is a lot of body-weight stuff you can do easily enough.


6

Reducing friction (or grip in layman's terms) would cause your wheel to simply spin in circles when you pedal and you would fall down. Increased friction between the tire and the riding surface is the goal of nearly every tire manufacturer. You could easily coat your tire in oil to accomplish the lower friction you are talking about.


5

I do not know how heavy your backpack is, but I would defo start by getting that off your back, If you carry your laptop round in it then its too heavy. Stick it in a saddle bag. It makes the whole trip more enjoyable, you are free to move around, your back gets relief and the bike carries the weight and you'll be quicker!.


5

Drilling a crank that old is not a great idea. They weren't that strong to begin with and 40+ years of use hasn't made then any stronger. I would not do anything to further weaken them. To be honest, if the pedals are frozen I'd think twice about using that crank. Aluminum corrosion expands and can create stress that crack the material ( similar to the way ...


5

No need to cold-set. I have a BSO with the same problem. The rear dropouts are about 6mm too close for the hub. I can just flex them apart and let the hub in. The misalignment of the dropouts would be virtually nonexistent at 4mm flex. If you remove your wheels often, and putting the wheel on is a pain, it might be worth cold-setting your frame. Other ...


4

What you most likely have is an old-fashioned coaster brake, along with a hand brake. In reality the coaster brake is probably more "natural" for someone learning -- the hand brake is mostly an affectation designed to make the bike appeal more to boys (of all ages). But it is possible to disassemble the rear hub and disable the brake in most cases. There ...


4

As long as the material in the paint doesn't cause the helmet material to degrade, it should be fine. While helmets do sometimes break apart in a crash, that's not a primary design requirement for them to keep your head protected. The two things a helmet does to keep your head safe during a crash are compress (to absorb the impact) and stay securely ...


4

Since you may need a big gear to power down big hills, let's look at the effect in gear inches of changing from 53 to 50. 53/13*27=110 50/13*27=104 (27 is arbitrary figure for comparison) So you will be losing 6 'gear inches' at the top end. Your next sprocket is presumably a 14 tooth, 53/14*27=102 If you went for a 49 then 49/13*27=102 Therefore, you ...


4

I doubt you will find a way to do this; it would require a shoe with a pretty deep sole to recess the cleats into (that's what SPDs do). Note that the SPD-SLs are pretty similar to the Looks but much more walkable.


4

If you want to go 9 speed, you'll need a Shimano-compatible 9 speed shifter for the rear (i.e. the right shifter). You'll also want a 9 speed chain. Your hub should be fine for the cassette swap. And the 9 speed cassette, of course. In terms of how much faster you should go, possibly none. You really need to keep up a good cadence most likely and you'd be ...


3

You should switch your derailleur out for one with a reverse pull, but there is absolutely no chance that you'll get the shifter to reverse the operation of the cable.


3

Panniers are a great idea. Having the weight off your back will give you more stability. Flat bars are nice but not required. If your road setup has C-drops, just ride with your hands on the hoods. Check into an adjustable stem. This will allow you to position it as you like. Since this will be a commuter, the extra weight of an adjustable stem is of ...


3

If you can unlock it, it's very easy as the mounting bolts are uncovered when it's unlocked. If it is locked, then it's a bit more difficult but not much more. The lock housing you can see in the image below is just stamped metal riveted together. Some ring locks are so weak that a good whack on the locking lever will spring it open. Otherwise, the easiest ...



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