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12

These are cable guide parts. From the looks of it, you have: 2 Housing shims, used to secure hydraulic lines or brake housing in the braze-ons of the frame, or for securing the housing at the point it enters the frame in the case of internal housing. 1 Headset adjustment bolt button, used to keep water out of the bolt in the center of your headset cap, ...


10

Don't worry about things that haven't happened. Most people new to clipless are worried about the exact opposite. "Will I be able to unclip if things go south in a turn?" Eventually you will get to the point where clipping in/out is completely unconscious. Having said all that, if unclipping when you don't want to really becomes a problem, look into ...


8

As already said, aerodynamics are less important to MTB's, but otherwise its largely convention and fashion that dictate what people wear. A vast majority of MTB'r are not wearing basic shorts - they are usually wearing shorts made for riding, including padding just like Lycra road shorts, flat seams and materials designed to withstand the rigour of riding. ...


5

Those guys seem to use basic shorts of one type or another Most (at least those who pedal more than 5 miles per ride and have been riding for more than 1 year) use some form of spandex with padding below the shorts. that catch air Doesn't matter. and might catch on branches. Doesn't happen. The hands and elbows in modern MTBs are very very ...


3

Yes. Have a look at UCI's MTB rules at http://www.uci.ch/mm/Document/News/Rulesandregulation/16/72/76/MTBReglementsENG_English.pdf Look for "course marking".


3

If you watch a lot of trials riding, you'll notice they actually land with considerable more force on their rear wheels using their legs as a shock and then (sometimes even gently) touching down their front wheel. Front suspension was mainly created to maintain control on rough terrain. Trying to use your front suspension to absorb the impact of a jump ...


3

First make sure you have disc brake mounting tabs on the seat stays. If you don't have those, then it's pretty much impossible. Technically still possible, but not without added costs that go well beyond what your bike is worth. Also, you need to make sure your rear hub has mounting holes for the disc. If you don't have these, you will need to ...


2

Increasing positive chamber pressure would reduce bottom-outs, but at the expense of reduced "up" travel. Increasing compression damping will also reduce bottom-outs but without reducing "up" travel. This would have the negative effect of reducing the shock's compliance which will make the ride harsher, so it's a balancing act where the goal is to optimize ...


2

Your assumptions are wrong. Yes, riders do extend their hands and feet just before landing, but not to make the bike work more. They do that so they can make room for the inevitable hand and feet compression which will happen when contacting the ground. If you don't extend hands and feet then you only have: 40cm absorbtion of hands and feet compression ...


2

Yeah, that bike is more than adequate for that type of riding. The only thing you might consider tailoring for your riding styles would be the tires. The trail you posted looks pretty smooth. If you got into some trails that were looser or rocky then you could go with something more knobby and/or higher volume. I say just ride the bike and enjoy the ...


2

Says on the sidewall of a tyre. Mine says between 40-60psi. They also have it in 'bars' if you like to measure in that. Check out an example here http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-magic-mary-evo-mtb-tyre-super-gravity/rp-prod118255 Says max 50psi.


2

I had a similar trailer clamp it was terrible, I ended up buying a hitch that connects to the axle and removed the clamp. I attached a length of aluminum tubing with some holes drilled in it in place of the clamp. I slip the tube over the axle hitch and then use a hitch pin to keep it all in place. Its on my other bike currently but the hitch looks like ...


2

Most bike mechanics will tell you that the best performance is not attained at maximum tyre pressure. My own tyres take up to 4.5 bar, yet the best ride is at around 2.5 bar. For whatever reason, my bike rolls better in the terrrain at 2.5 bar than at 3 bar.


2

Ah the wonderful world of tire sizes, where nothing is what it seems! There are multiple size systems (French, fractional, decimal, ISO), and only ISO/ETRTO, the "international standard" is (somewhat) consistent. Unfortunately, many people don't use the ISO/ETRTO system. The definitive guide to tire sizes is Sheldon Browns' site: ...


1

If you can find some other tube on the bike frame that fits the clamp better, that should be fine. Obviously if you attach the clamp too high, the trailer will be tilted at an angle which would be uncomfortable for your kid. I used to have a trailer with a similar attachment. I noticed that the clamp can have a tendency to come loose from vibration, if ...


1

First note that if you get full movement in your rear gear shift you will probably have all the range you need. I think this would be EASIER than working on front derailleur. SO I recommend working on your Secondary Problem first! :-) NOTE: Allow plenty of time for fiddling with your gears. Do it in a warm dry place when you have time so you can learn how ...


1

I once had this happen before by combining inexpensive saddle bags combined with a inexpensive rack. The bags were not stiff enough for things like groceries and the rack provided no support to keep the saddle bags from twisting. With the heavy weight the bags simply twist into the spokes while riding. I now use higher quality expedition style panniers ...


1

You want to stay centered. Don't push the bars down. But don't wait to kicking downwards when the bike is just about to land. Extend in air smoothly so you have room to absorb and get ready for landing. On a hop you are trying to get air so you will be extended. If it a jump you are tying to absorb you will be compressed so you will extend in air. If ...



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