Hot answers tagged mountain-bike
Many first time cross racers use a mountain bike. It makes perfect sense, don't go out and spend $1500+ before you even know whether cyclocross is your cup of tea. Most all races allow mountain bikes, the only type of equipment that's usually forbidden is a fixed gear. A full suspension mountain bike will do just fine as an introductory race vehicle. Your ...
Generally, it will go away if you apply the brakes a bit (it will be a bit noisy at first, but after a few applications it will look as good as new), since the rust is likely only on the surface (this is one way to tell if a car has been not driven for a few days - rust spots appear on the brake discs, but they'll go away after a short trip around town). ...
Pretty much been done to death with evangelistic enthusiasm on many forums. Smaller wheels - more agile and responsive, lighter/stronger, easier to control Larger Wheels - roll better over small obstacles therefore considered faster in straight lines, lower tire pressures (due bigger tire) provide more traction off paved roads. Slower to accelerate ...
Two questions here - restore an old bike and what bike for your wife. Lets deal with the easy one - an old Specialised will be a better bike than a department store one. If you need much more gear to be replaced, consider looking for a donor. Add another $100 to you list for things that might need doing - like new cluster and chain rings, brake pads etc. ...
Road bike will bang / jump - what ever you want to call it MartynRoadBikes2 Frames and wheels are just as strong What you lose is flotation of bigger tires. But for commute I would recommend a cyclocross and and put touring tires on it.
I have a Yeti ASX dual suspense mountain bike. I fitted the Oldman mountain Sherpa rear rack and carry about 15-20 kgs on it without any problems. I use Ortleib Classic roller panniers and have never had a problem. I've completed the following tours: 600 kms Munda Biddi Mtn bike route in West Australia, Adelaide to Alice Springs 1600 kms, New Zealand South ...
Could be a lot of things. I had an Ultegra in good shape that was jumping around. It was two problems. 1) The cable was a bit frawed at the shifter. 2) I did not have the cassette tight enough - torque to specification.
If its just up and down one gear then you probably need to calibrate the derailleur cage a little using the barrel adjusters. Depending on the make of shifter and derailleur there will be a barrel adjuster on one or both ends of the cable outer which will allow you to make micro-adjustments to the cage position. The jockey wheel centre should be roughly ...
You'll net to release the cable anchor on the derailleur. Place the shifter in the 8th position. Turn the cranks and the chain should shift the the highest gear. Reset the high limit screw. Pull the cable snug and tighten cable anchor. You will likely need to fine tune with the cable adjuster.
First thing to check is if your rear derailleur is bent. If that is not the case, check the cable tension is not too high. Is the shifter acting funny (like hard to shift)? See this link to see how to do adjustments: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur
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