Hot answers tagged mountain-bike
4
I'd transform the comparison between single-speed vs. multi-speed(derailer) to SINGLE-CHAINLINE(single, fixed, or internal-geared-hub) vs derailed(assumed always multi-speed).
Then, there are ONLY advantages for the single-chainline bike:
Overall material is thicker. On the other hand, the need to pack a lot of gears in a cassette requires that the cogs ...
3
It's not that unusual for a front brake to move a bit when taking it off and reattaching it. This is due to the small amount of space between the fork ends, axle, and QR bolts. The fork flexes a bit when you put the wheel back on. That small space that it moves is a lot relative to the clearance that disc brake pads have. That's likely why your brake pads ...
3
Note : this is mostly based on my personal experience. Its an incredibly subjective subject, so there is no right answer. Keep in mind that in reality one level up or down will be completely unnoticeable performance difference to most riders.
XT is considered the "Sweat spot" for performance, weight and durability. Probably X9 in the SRAM range. XTR and ...
3
I can't really debate whether your drivetrain will have less wear. However, the symptoms of wear are much less pronounced on a single speed drivetrain (assuming you are not using a tensioner). You're just not going to get the same chain skipping / jumping issues you would on a derailleur system. The same thing is applicable to internally geared hubs.
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3
I am not sure if you fancy that, but with single speed setup, you can potentially better shield chain from dust and elements, which can prolong the life of drive train significantly.
Also, single speed sprockets and chain rings can potentially be made of more solid material than multispeed variants, which are now days mostly done out of Aluminium to make ...
2
I used to have single-speed commute bike. Then switched to 9-speed setup for commuting. I find no significant difference in lifespan of chains and chainrings.
The obvious advantage of single-speeder is constant nearly perfect chainline. This means your chain is never bent. But most of the times chains die by getting stretched. And equally good chains will ...
2
No need to a full suspesion - waste of good money on these trails, you need $2K to get one thats half decent - however if you have got $2.5K burning a hole in you pocket, full sus will be more comfortable. A Hardtail MTB is built a little heavier than a hybrid, but in the end, I doubt very much it would make a difference.
What I would do is look at some ...
1
Just look for any chainrings that have the same bolt circle diameter, the same number of bolts, and are designed for the same number of gears that you currently have and you'll be fine.
Although you may find that it's cheaper to simply replace the whole crankset than to buy individual chainrings.
1
Not sure if my math is correct here, but using a triangle solver, and assuming that the up-sweep and backsweep act over a distance of 250 mm, (390 is half the bar, minus a bit for the middle part) the difference between 3 degrees and 5 degrees for the upsweep translates to 9 mm difference in rise, and the different between 7 degrees and 9 degrees for ...
1
Using the "approved" chain is probably better if all else is equal, and it may be worth a slightly increased cost for more peace of mind. If you already have the mountain-specific chain, there's no harm in trying it. And if the mountain-specific chain is far cheaper and you aren't picky about shifting performance, it will probably be adequate (but no ...
1
On Trek 4300 you have RST Gila fork which is cheap and simple. You can't really lock it completely, just pre-load the spring to maximum. I'd say you should not worry about it - the internals are very simple and can't really be damaged easily: this is no oil/air fork. It has a steel spring and some rubbers to work as dumper.
And most likely the juddering you ...
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