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3

Generally, it will go away if you apply the brakes a bit (it will be a bit noisy at first, but after a few applications it will look as good as new), since the rust is likely only on the surface (this is one way to tell if a car has been not driven for a few days - rust spots appear on the brake discs, but they'll go away after a short trip around town). ...


3

If You are DH racing, then we are talking about racetracks and trails thar are known to the rider, assuming that the rider is practicing and getting used to the track, picking best lines for each section and generally speaking, creating/refining a race strategy. In that context, a gear is to be selected acording to the particular needs of each section, ...


2

Rear wheels have never had 9mm axles, they have always been 10mm. For all but "downhill" MTB[2] and fatbikes[3], they are either 135mm 10mm or the new 12mm 142mm maxle standard. http://www.pinkbike.com/news/12x142-explained.html Unless it specifically states otherwise I would assume that the rear wheel of an MTB wheelset is a 135mm 10mm axle. Anything ...


2

A general procedure with too tight clamps: Put in the screw or a longer one of the same diameter from the opposite side. Fit a piece of (hard, like a small coin) metal into the slot. Tighten the screw carefully. It should open the clamp enough to fit it over the bar


2

Pretty much been done to death with evangelistic enthusiasm on many forums. Smaller wheels - more agile and responsive, lighter/stronger, easier to control Larger Wheels - roll better over small obstacles therefore considered faster in straight lines, lower tire pressures (due bigger tire) provide more traction off paved roads. Slower to accelerate ...


1

Could be a lot of things. I had an Ultegra in good shape that was jumping around. It was two problems. 1) The cable was a bit frawed at the shifter. 2) I did not have the cassette tight enough - torque to specification.


1

If its just up and down one gear then you probably need to calibrate the derailleur cage a little using the barrel adjusters. Depending on the make of shifter and derailleur there will be a barrel adjuster on one or both ends of the cable outer which will allow you to make micro-adjustments to the cage position. The jockey wheel centre should be roughly ...


1

You'll net to release the cable anchor on the derailleur. Place the shifter in the 8th position. Turn the cranks and the chain should shift the the highest gear. Reset the high limit screw. Pull the cable snug and tighten cable anchor. You will likely need to fine tune with the cable adjuster.


1

First thing to check is if your rear derailleur is bent. If that is not the case, check the cable tension is not too high. Is the shifter acting funny (like hard to shift)? See this link to see how to do adjustments: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur


1

Main diference is tooth count, and that imposes differences in deraileur dimensions. As other answer mentions, gear range is wider in a MTB, so the rear deraileur has to be able to take-up more chain slack. A longer cage solves this. As long as they are designed with the same cable pull ratio, they are compatible, you can esaily fit an MTB deraileur to a ...


1

The main differences to the drive train is the length of the rear derailleur arm. MTBs have lower and wider spaced gearing which means the rear derailleur has to handle a bigger span in chain length. A MTB typically has a large chainring with 42 teeth and a small one with 22 and a rear cassette with 12 - 28 tooth span - so the chain has to fit both a 42+28 ...


1

I will interject that there is a whole discipline/style of riding called "trials" and they have bikes that are tuned/designed for "stunts". They share more in common with BMX style bikes probably than anything else. Really it depends on what your definition of stunts is. Any number of flatland, freestyle, freeride, slopestyle, dirt jump or trials bikes ...



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