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31

I agree with the comments that 9 miles is a not a short ride for somebody not in shape, but you’ll get in shape for it really fast, so you should go for it. Just get ready to be sore in funny places for a couple weeks. You can make your situation better by doing a few things: Buy a road bike instead, assuming you’ll be on pavement. At the very least, ...


16

Check out cyclocross style bicycle. It does well on the road and light trails. You can put touring tires on it. wiki Cyclo-cross


13

The single-legged fork must truly withstand heavier bending forces than conventional forks, simply due to physics and asymmetricity. But because of it's different construction, the fork is actually stiffer than most 2-legged. Pros The top is attached like a dual crown downhill fork, which is much stiffer than a single-crown. The wheel axle is one-piece ...


12

These are cable guide parts. From the looks of it, you have: 2 Housing shims, used to secure hydraulic lines or brake housing in the braze-ons of the frame, or for securing the housing at the point it enters the frame in the case of internal housing. 1 Headset adjustment bolt button, used to keep water out of the bolt in the center of your headset cap, ...


11

I've cycled 15km (or 9.3 miles) to work for over 2 years. You'll get used to it very fast. I can reiterate what @tim.farkas is saying about that wearing a backpack will get old fast. I've bolted a big plastik box onto my bike rack to put my backpack in. It was very relieving to cycle without anything on your back. Take your time in the beginning and cycle ...


10

Don't worry about things that haven't happened. Most people new to clipless are worried about the exact opposite. "Will I be able to unclip if things go south in a turn?" Eventually you will get to the point where clipping in/out is completely unconscious. Having said all that, if unclipping when you don't want to really becomes a problem, look into ...


9

Gravel tires are normally a little knobby: versus completely smooth for a road tire. One strategy is to run a gravel or combination tire in the front and a road tire in the back. A combination tire is one which is nearly slick in the middle with knobs on the sides, so you might want to try one road tire on the back and one gravel tire on the front. ...


9

The parts that Blam refers to are known as the pawls and the ratchet. Slipping can happen for a number of reasons, including warn ratchet, warn pawls, weak springs, or excessive accumulation of grease & grime within the freehub. http://dirtmountainbike.com/features/work-freehub-body.html has a thorough explanation of the different freehub types. ...


8

One purpose of a visor is to shield the sun like a baseball cap. There are many factors: Wind resistance is not as big a factor on a mountain bike (slower speeds). The more upright position on a mountain bike puts a visor more into play. On a road bike the rider is leaning forward and facing down and the visor can even block forward view. A visor ...


8

I can see 3 possible causes for the bike being more exausting than it "should" be: 1: Lack of (or incorrect) previous maintenance. Particularly you mention you bought it from a "clueless" person. It is likely that such person didn't knew when to take the bike to maintenance and was not very careful on how or where to keep it while not in use. Some bikes ...


8

The differences are quite significant from race to race - each track is different. Also events such as Rampage are not too much about speed. The top speed may vary between 55-65km/h on tracks such as Mount Sainte Anne up to around 80km/h in Pietermaritzburg which is known for high speeds achieved. Of course all assuming good weather. Also these speeds are ...


8

As already said, aerodynamics are less important to MTB's, but otherwise its largely convention and fashion that dictate what people wear. A vast majority of MTB'r are not wearing basic shorts - they are usually wearing shorts made for riding, including padding just like Lycra road shorts, flat seams and materials designed to withstand the rigour of riding. ...


7

The picture is a RD-M780-SGS long cage. Shimano have three codes for rear derailleur length: Short - SS Medium - GS Long - SGS I'm not aware of where this is printed on the RD though so not so helpful. However Shimano only have one non-clutched XT Dyna-Sys (10 speed) RD the RD-M780-SGS (long cage 43t capacity). The clutched (shadow+) RDs come in GS ...


7

Chain will rust always after washing (or even light rain or a puddle of water), if not re-lubed. I think this is detrimental to the chain, as it removes material from the rollers and thus contributes to chain stretch. Bolts for stem, handlebars etc. seem to always like to rust after rain or washing. I don't think it is a big deal, but it ruins the look of ...


7

Biking is an easy activity to throttle. Start slow and take breaks along the way if necessary. Also take days off when you feel fatigued or sore. Make sure you hydrate.


7

Presumably that's 52 cm. Generally, a crack in an Al frame (or most frames), especially in an area which gets a lot of stress makes it scrap (esp. if its supposed to be used off road). Given this, I'd scrap this frame.


6

Air will escape, one of the biggest problems with Ghetto tubeless (unfortunate, but long established name for this technique) and not using specific tubeless ready or UST (tubeless standard) tires is that you need to inflate your tires a lot. At worst for every ride. The tires often do roll off the rim. Not every combination of Ghetto tubeless will work ...


6

Don't pressure hose your bike at all and steer clear of the air compressor. You don't want to force water, air or grit into seals and bearings. I always lightly hose off excess dirt or brush it off, then sponge down with a soapy hot water, then rinse, leave or drip -dry or use a cloth to wipe off excess liquid. Clean the chain, rings, cassette, rims with ...


6

If your bicycle is a BSO (bicycle shaped object sold at discount mass retailers), then likely no. You'd spend $100+ labor on the derailleur and a new chain, but then the next week the brakes would fail, the handlebar would come off, or the frame would crack. BSOs are money pits. Furthermore, it's unlikely you could just replace the derailleur, you'd have to ...


6

I basically agree with @RoboKaren's answer, but wanted to add a couple of things that would take up too much space for a comment. For starters, you say that the chain mashed up the derailleur. So the derailleur was actually the "victim" of the problem, not necessarily the cause. So while you might need to replace the derailleur, that is likely not the only ...


6

There are locks that can be unlocked with your cell phone, but none of them lock your bike automatically. I'm pretty sure the product you are looking for doesn't exist. The reason this doesn't exist is because it wouldn't be possible. You could build a lock that would automatically lock the wheels based on a proximity detector linked to your cell phone. ...


5

Lets get the social aspects out the way - you can lead a horse to water and all that stuff.....: Hows your relationship - will he listen to you and is he prepared to take clearly well intended advice. Also does he believe he has a problem and does he want to fix it. If any of these answers is no there little you can do except ruin you friendship. Till hes ...


5

Typically cool points, but it can be used to align the bike with the landing surface if the launch, trajectory and landing aren't in a straight line.


5

You've basically got three sets of bearings on your bike: hubs, bottom bracket, and headset. It's pretty easy to check if the grease has been blown out of any of them by listening to them spin or by checking for play in the part. If anything sound gravelly when you spin it the bearing definitely needs some love. The wiggle check is a little more ...


5

A quick search turned up this post, in which the OP is having the same trouble. It sounds like your crank is swaged to the chainrings, as in this image: "Swaged" means the "spider" (the group of radial arms that hold the chainring) is press-fitted onto the crank arm. A better design is to manufacture the crank arm and spider as one piece, like this: ...


5

I hate to say it but this is why it's advisable to go to a bike shop, if you're not sure about setting things up. You raise a couple of points: Front disk brake. Regarding your original problem, the rotor should not rub against the pads, period. There should be no contact unless you're actually braking. And when you stop braking, the pads should sit back. ...


5

Many first time cross racers use a mountain bike. It makes perfect sense, don't go out and spend $1500+ before you even know whether cyclocross is your cup of tea. Most all races allow mountain bikes, the only type of equipment that's usually forbidden is a fixed gear. A full suspension mountain bike will do just fine as an introductory race vehicle. Your ...


5

Presuming it came out of the bike, probably oil from Hydraulic brakes. Although the link does not specify things in detail - A 2009 bike with Tora Rock shox and Deore components would almost certainly have had hydraulic brakes. Check the brakes are working and not spongy. If in any doubt take it to the LBS for a check over - a leak from the shocks needs ...


5

From my experience, no they would not. Have you ever watched anyone ride a fatbike? Their front tire wobbles all over the place, the extra weight from the heavy tires makes fine-adjustments much more difficult, putting extra fatigue on your body. That being said, training with a bike that's not suited for skinnys will make riding them easier when you hop on ...


5

There is usually a minimum insertion marker on the seat post to indicate the minimum amount of the seat post which should remain in the seat tube. The frame manufacturer might also specify a minimum insertion depth for the frame. It is not recommended to run the seat post inserted any less than the greater of these two this as it can put the frame under ...



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