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22

It's common etiquette, at least everywhere I've been, to stay away from wet and muddy trails (unless they're supposed to be or always are a mudfest). Riding on a muddy trail makes ruts which make the trail conditions worse for everyone once the mud dries and the ground hardens. In addition to ruts, if the trail is muddy and you slide out a front wheel going ...


10

Vibram is simply a brand name for rubber soles made by Vibram S.p.A. of Italy. The actual composition of the rubber and the lug design used differs across their product line, with specialized compounds for hiking, industrial use, and for their "Five Fingers" barefoot running shoes. They began as a manufacturer for hiking shoes and were one of the first to ...


10

I don't think you are matching like for like and actually the price differential is quite small. The only fair way to compare two bikes is by looking at the frame only price. In this case I've been unable to find the frame only price for the Codeine (SingleTrack forum suggested £599 with Monarch R vs £225 for 456) so have used Santa Cruz instead: The frame ...


10

Practice, practice, practice... You need to move the physical motions of getting out of the pedals from your conscious muscle memory to your unconscious muscle memory. Once it becomes an instinctual unconscious reaction, you'll have far fewer problems. A flat grassy space is good for this. Try doing track stands and un-clip to catch your balance. Or you ...


9

The parts that Blam refers to are known as the pawls and the ratchet. Slipping can happen for a number of reasons, including warn ratchet, warn pawls, weak springs, or excessive accumulation of grease & grime within the freehub. http://dirtmountainbike.com/features/work-freehub-body.html has a thorough explanation of the different freehub types. ...


9

Gravel tires are normally a little knobby: versus completely smooth for a road tire. One strategy is to run a gravel or combination tire in the front and a road tire in the back. A combination tire is one which is nearly slick in the middle with knobs on the sides, so you might want to try one road tire on the back and one gravel tire on the front. ...


8

The last one. As already mentioned, you're describing a bunny hop. Allowing the rear to hit the curb - even if there is relatively little weight over it - will increase the risk of pinch punctures, potential rim damage, and it will slow you down considerably more than a clean bunny hop. Hops are weird. Once you can do them you will never understand why you ...


8

As Alesplin puts it, it is common practice to stay off of trails that are muddy. I'd like to expand on his answer a little. I think there are a few factors that come into play with a question like this. One of the biggest contributors of damage to a muddy trail is large amounts of traffic. The more people that use the trail, the more damage will be done. ...


8

The answer to your question depends heavily on the infrastructure that is available to you, and the highest level of mechanical ability in your party. As another pointed out, you will want at least two pumps, multi-tools, etc. My wife and I do pretty challenging mtb tours with BOB trailers. We generally bring the following (subject to modification ...


8

When I come across something like that, instead of riding straight down the hill I will head down across the hill on a diagonal. You can carry more speed this way and you won't hit the far wall of the trench and risk being sent over the bars, when your bike comes to an immediate stop. This goes for any type of bike, rigid or full suspension. If the risk of ...


8

I can see 3 possible causes for the bike being more exausting than it "should" be: 1: Lack of (or incorrect) previous maintenance. Particularly you mention you bought it from a "clueless" person. It is likely that such person didn't knew when to take the bike to maintenance and was not very careful on how or where to keep it while not in use. Some bikes ...


8

The differences are quite significant from race to race - each track is different. Also events such as Rampage are not too much about speed. The top speed may vary between 55-65km/h on tracks such as Mount Sainte Anne up to around 80km/h in Pietermaritzburg which is known for high speeds achieved. Of course all assuming good weather. Also these speeds are ...


7

10 cm from the saddle would be possible if you are talking about XC saddle height and the handlebars are lower than the seat. One way is to do this: Another way is to bend and go very deep: knees bend pointing outside hands totally straight to the bars so your body moves backwards back totally straight position your body so the saddle goes exactly ...


7

The picture is a RD-M780-SGS long cage. Shimano have three codes for rear derailleur length: Short - SS Medium - GS Long - SGS I'm not aware of where this is printed on the RD though so not so helpful. However Shimano only have one non-clutched XT Dyna-Sys (10 speed) RD the RD-M780-SGS (long cage 43t capacity). The clutched (shadow+) RDs come in GS ...


6

The main issue is the load limits on those racks, and the second one is why those limits exist. The Thule Pack ’n Pedal Tour Rack is claimed to take 25kg, the Topeak seatpost mounted racks will take 9kg. Thule seem to be selling rebadged Freeload gear? I have seen a Thule rack fail with significantly less than 25kg on it, and while being ridden fairly ...


6

Saddle height for MTB might need to be a bit lower... I'll skip being the expert on that though as I've heard all sorts of preferences... Your balance steps in greatly here, how slow can you ride or how long can you stay upright when stopped; how much front tire popping up during that climb can you handle. That doesn't answer anything, but obviously it ...


6

That particular bike looks like it has mounting points for a rear rack, which is the primary issue. In general, what you are looking for are the bolt holes or "braze-ons" usually just a few inches below where the seat stays connect to the seat tube, as well as ones above the rear axle on the dropout. If your bike doesn't have them, there are ways to mount a ...


6

There are numerous websites for mountain biking, each tends to service a niche either geographically or as part of the spectrum of mountain biking. Some of the bigger sites are: Mountain Bike Review (MTBR) - US site SingleTrack - UK site Bike Radar - large cycling site with big mountain bike section NSMB - similar and related to PinkBike but focused on BC, ...


6

Yes, no*, yes. Enduro racing is a hybrid sport, but the timed aspects of it are almost all downhill. As such, you're going to want a bike that can handle that the best, which would most likely be a full suspension frame. There aren't any specific rules (yet) against hard tails, although a few events may dictate no hardtails for their race specifically. One ...


6

Yes, unless they say no. The "Spirit of Enduro" is to include all riders, of all abilities, on all bikes. Since there are guys who can ride crazy fast on a hardtail down a downhill trail, you can certainly ride yours in an Enduro race. However, you might be putting yourself at a disadvantage compared to the pro's or if you are looking to be competitive. ...


6

I wish they had them 20 years ago when I was much younger and rode much more difficult terrain, with much less respect (aka fear) than I now have. (I ride mostly technical XC, not downhill). As far a protection goes, if the choice is a traditional light weight helmet or one like this, you will be better off with this. It is not an alternate to a down hill ...


6

They make bash guards for derailleurs which mount to the frame which protect a derailleur in a crash like but these are dangerous in that they transmit a hit to the derailleur to the frame (and frame damage is typically less repairable/ more expensive than a derailleur damage). Usually, what gets damaged in a crash is the derailleur hanger, which can be ...


6

Air will escape, one of the biggest problems with Ghetto tubeless (unfortunate, but long established name for this technique) and not using specific tubeless ready or UST (tubeless standard) tires is that you need to inflate your tires a lot. At worst for every ride. The tires often do roll off the rim. Not every combination of Ghetto tubeless will work ...


5

You'll only benefit from better bibs, insofar as they fit as they should. Given that you seem content with your current set, start with the same size when making a new purchase. For the differences... Start by checking the stitching all the way around on the new ones that you're interested in and compare it to those that you already know. Quite a bit of ...


5

There is no need to have equal tires on both wheels, except for aesthetics. Just make sure that front tire has enough grip so you can remain in control. As for getting pinch flats - make sure you mount tubes correctly and they are not trapped between tire and rim. Having high pressure should help you avoid pinches. More durable tire will help with ...


5

Carbon is seen as expensive and light while Aluminum is heavier and cheaper. Both are, to all practical purposes, more than robust enough for the job. At the price point you are looking at (for a hard tail), Carbon is a no brainier and superior in every way. If you are worried about failure mode, both are as likely to fail catastrophically as each other, ...


5

Rebound is close to b in your equations above. The guides I've seen and used recommend the following procedure for setting rear shock rebound. Ride over a sidewalk curb ( ie. 4-5 inch drop ) and adjust the rebound until you have only one bounce. I.e. you want the shock to be able to absorb a hit, but not keep rebounding to cause you to lose control. ...


5

It depends. On a road bike you'll want them fairly tight to be able to ride on the hoods without the brake levers turning away or moving downward on the bar. On a mountain bike, at least the brake levers should be able to rotate away in case of a crash. But they still should be relatively tight such that they don't turn away while braking or because of ...


5

I-spec is a Shimano-proprietary mounting system for Shimano parts. Its supposed to make mounting and adjusting brake+shift levers faster and easier by putting them on one mounting clamp. I couldn't find a blurb on what it does / how it operates on the Shimano website, but the equivalent for SRAM is SRAM Matchmaker, which from their website: "The ...



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