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30

I agree with the comments that 9 miles is a not a short ride for somebody not in shape, but you’ll get in shape for it really fast, so you should go for it. Just get ready to be sore in funny places for a couple weeks. You can make your situation better by doing a few things: Buy a road bike instead, assuming you’ll be on pavement. At the very least, ...


22

It's common etiquette, at least everywhere I've been, to stay away from wet and muddy trails (unless they're supposed to be or always are a mudfest). Riding on a muddy trail makes ruts which make the trail conditions worse for everyone once the mud dries and the ground hardens. In addition to ruts, if the trail is muddy and you slide out a front wheel going ...


16

Check out cyclocross style bicycle. It does well on the road and light trails. You can put touring tires on it. wiki Cyclo-cross


11

I've cycled 15km (or 9.3 miles) to work for over 2 years. You'll get used to it very fast. I can reiterate what @tim.farkas is saying about that wearing a backpack will get old fast. I've bolted a big plastik box onto my bike rack to put my backpack in. It was very relieving to cycle without anything on your back. Take your time in the beginning and cycle ...


10

Practice, practice, practice... You need to move the physical motions of getting out of the pedals from your conscious muscle memory to your unconscious muscle memory. Once it becomes an instinctual unconscious reaction, you'll have far fewer problems. A flat grassy space is good for this. Try doing track stands and un-clip to catch your balance. Or you ...


9

The parts that Blam refers to are known as the pawls and the ratchet. Slipping can happen for a number of reasons, including warn ratchet, warn pawls, weak springs, or excessive accumulation of grease & grime within the freehub. http://dirtmountainbike.com/features/work-freehub-body.html has a thorough explanation of the different freehub types. ...


9

Gravel tires are normally a little knobby: versus completely smooth for a road tire. One strategy is to run a gravel or combination tire in the front and a road tire in the back. A combination tire is one which is nearly slick in the middle with knobs on the sides, so you might want to try one road tire on the back and one gravel tire on the front. ...


8

As Alesplin puts it, it is common practice to stay off of trails that are muddy. I'd like to expand on his answer a little. I think there are a few factors that come into play with a question like this. One of the biggest contributors of damage to a muddy trail is large amounts of traffic. The more people that use the trail, the more damage will be done. ...


8

The answer to your question depends heavily on the infrastructure that is available to you, and the highest level of mechanical ability in your party. As another pointed out, you will want at least two pumps, multi-tools, etc. My wife and I do pretty challenging mtb tours with BOB trailers. We generally bring the following (subject to modification ...


8

When I come across something like that, instead of riding straight down the hill I will head down across the hill on a diagonal. You can carry more speed this way and you won't hit the far wall of the trench and risk being sent over the bars, when your bike comes to an immediate stop. This goes for any type of bike, rigid or full suspension. If the risk of ...


8

One purpose of a visor is to shield the sun like a baseball cap. There are many factors: Wind resistance is not as big a factor on a mountain bike (slower speeds). The more upright position on a mountain bike puts a visor more into play. On a road bike the rider is leaning forward and facing down and the visor can even block forward view. A visor ...


8

I can see 3 possible causes for the bike being more exausting than it "should" be: 1: Lack of (or incorrect) previous maintenance. Particularly you mention you bought it from a "clueless" person. It is likely that such person didn't knew when to take the bike to maintenance and was not very careful on how or where to keep it while not in use. Some bikes ...


8

The differences are quite significant from race to race - each track is different. Also events such as Rampage are not too much about speed. The top speed may vary between 55-65km/h on tracks such as Mount Sainte Anne up to around 80km/h in Pietermaritzburg which is known for high speeds achieved. Of course all assuming good weather. Also these speeds are ...


7

The picture is a RD-M780-SGS long cage. Shimano have three codes for rear derailleur length: Short - SS Medium - GS Long - SGS I'm not aware of where this is printed on the RD though so not so helpful. However Shimano only have one non-clutched XT Dyna-Sys (10 speed) RD the RD-M780-SGS (long cage 43t capacity). The clutched (shadow+) RDs come in GS ...


7

Chain will rust always after washing (or even light rain or a puddle of water), if not re-lubed. I think this is detrimental to the chain, as it removes material from the rollers and thus contributes to chain stretch. Bolts for stem, handlebars etc. seem to always like to rust after rain or washing. I don't think it is a big deal, but it ruins the look of ...


7

Biking is an easy activity to throttle. Start slow and take breaks along the way if necessary. Also take days off when you feel fatigued or sore. Make sure you hydrate.


6

They make bash guards for derailleurs which mount to the frame which protect a derailleur in a crash like but these are dangerous in that they transmit a hit to the derailleur to the frame (and frame damage is typically less repairable/ more expensive than a derailleur damage). Usually, what gets damaged in a crash is the derailleur hanger, which can be ...


6

Air will escape, one of the biggest problems with Ghetto tubeless (unfortunate, but long established name for this technique) and not using specific tubeless ready or UST (tubeless standard) tires is that you need to inflate your tires a lot. At worst for every ride. The tires often do roll off the rim. Not every combination of Ghetto tubeless will work ...


6

Don't pressure hose your bike at all and steer clear of the air compressor. You don't want to force water, air or grit into seals and bearings. I always lightly hose off excess dirt or brush it off, then sponge down with a soapy hot water, then rinse, leave or drip -dry or use a cloth to wipe off excess liquid. Clean the chain, rings, cassette, rims with ...


6

If your bicycle is a BSO (bicycle shaped object sold at discount mass retailers), then likely no. You'd spend $100+ labor on the derailleur and a new chain, but then the next week the brakes would fail, the handlebar would come off, or the frame would crack. BSOs are money pits. Furthermore, it's unlikely you could just replace the derailleur, you'd have to ...


6

I basically agree with @RoboKaren's answer, but wanted to add a couple of things that would take up too much space for a comment. For starters, you say that the chain mashed up the derailleur. So the derailleur was actually the "victim" of the problem, not necessarily the cause. So while you might need to replace the derailleur, that is likely not the only ...


6

There are locks that can be unlocked with your cell phone, but none of them lock your bike automatically. I'm pretty sure the product you are looking for doesn't exist. The reason this doesn't exist is because it wouldn't be possible. You could build a lock that would automatically lock the wheels based on a proximity detector linked to your cell phone. ...


5

Look at Downhill MTB gloves, they are meant for folks who are likely to crash in the brush and often have padding on fronts of fingers and knuckles and leather palm protection.


5

Typically cool points, but it can be used to align the bike with the landing surface if the launch, trajectory and landing aren't in a straight line.


5

You've basically got three sets of bearings on your bike: hubs, bottom bracket, and headset. It's pretty easy to check if the grease has been blown out of any of them by listening to them spin or by checking for play in the part. If anything sound gravelly when you spin it the bearing definitely needs some love. The wiggle check is a little more ...


5

Lets get the social aspects out the way - you can lead a horse to water and all that stuff.....: Hows your relationship - will he listen to you and is he prepared to take clearly well intended advice. Also does he believe he has a problem and does he want to fix it. If any of these answers is no there little you can do except ruin you friendship. Till hes ...


5

A quick search turned up this post, in which the OP is having the same trouble. It sounds like your crank is swaged to the chainrings, as in this image: "Swaged" means the "spider" (the group of radial arms that hold the chainring) is press-fitted onto the crank arm. A better design is to manufacture the crank arm and spider as one piece, like this: ...


5

I hate to say it but this is why it's advisable to go to a bike shop, if you're not sure about setting things up. You raise a couple of points: Front disk brake. Regarding your original problem, the rotor should not rub against the pads, period. There should be no contact unless you're actually braking. And when you stop braking, the pads should sit back. ...


5

Many first time cross racers use a mountain bike. It makes perfect sense, don't go out and spend $1500+ before you even know whether cyclocross is your cup of tea. Most all races allow mountain bikes, the only type of equipment that's usually forbidden is a fixed gear. A full suspension mountain bike will do just fine as an introductory race vehicle. Your ...


5

Presuming it came out of the bike, probably oil from Hydraulic brakes. Although the link does not specify things in detail - A 2009 bike with Tora Rock shox and Deore components would almost certainly have had hydraulic brakes. Check the brakes are working and not spongy. If in any doubt take it to the LBS for a check over - a leak from the shocks needs ...



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