Hot answers tagged

27

It can be considered "impolite" by roadies, but not because of the bike you were riding or the fact you didn't take a pull (although I am sure some will argue for this). The main reason random drop-in riders are generally frowned upon are because of: the dangers associated with unpredictability of a new rider lack of insurance coverage Potential ...


27

All the elite riders I have encountered just know. I think its part of the attention to detail necessary at that level. You almost never see them looking down to check (that would be showing a weakness and giving oponents an opportunity). But if you mean can the rider say which cog they are using at the front and rear? then the answer is that often we can'...


21

Cadence mostly. The answer to your question is in the title. Experience. Same way motocross riders know what gear they are in. The speed of the engine vs how fast they are moving.


17

It's a Shimano SPD cleat. There are a few different models, but they are all cross compatible. You can reuse the old ones if you can unscrew it, but new pair should be under 20€, too. EDIT: Looks like this is an old Shimano cleat, like this one: http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/reviews/dzr/ovis/10.jpg. Modern ones and most copies have a sharp angled "...


17

These are protective stickers for the chainstay, bottom end and some spots on your frame where the brake and speed cables cause frictions with the frame, scratching the colour.


15

This sounds like a issue in your freehub/freewheel (both are mechanically the same for this question). This is what allows you to coast without pedaling. Inside these bodies are a set of "pawls" which will flip down and engage a series of splines when rotated "forward", and propels the bike forward. Then, if you move them in the other direction "backwards"...


14

My experience is with load bikes rather than people who are loads, but the principle is the same. A tandem rated wheel is your best bet, and possibly a heavier frame. Unfortunately most Dutch bikes are built for tall Dutch people who are generally not that heavy. 370 pounds is about 170kg, which is heavy. Pacific Island rugby player heavy. What I would do ...


12

Landing on the rear wheel is a safe bet when you are not sure about the landing zone. For example a small tree root would be catastrophic if you are landing with both wheel. What happens is that since the downwards force from the fall is applied to both wheels, it is much harder to roll over the obstacle. If the front wheel cannot roll over, you basically ...


12

I think the terms used here are a bit confused. Rather than saying that a road bike has 22 "gears", you should be saying that it has 22 "speeds" (or more correctly, as pointed out in the comments, "gear ratios" is the technically correct most accurate term (when people say 'gear', they are using it as short for 'gear ratios')). Even that can be a bit ...


11

Unless it's actually circular then it's going to be a very bumpy ride. If it's a circular wheel that weaves laterally it could work as described, to some extent, but the float advantages of a fat tyre would obviously be lost. Actually making a lightweight bicycle wheel with significant lateral wobble would be difficult, and the optimum number of wobbles ...


9

One of my bikes has no indicators and I'm less familiar with it than my other bike which has indicators and more years especially at the top. But I don't find it to be a problem. You don't need to know exactly which gear you're in, just enough to know (e.g) that if you want to drop a gear you need to drop a chainring. A combination of feel and a vague ...


9

Most seat posts have a "minimum" insert of 3 to 4 inches. But this varies with the material and the thickness of the post, and the weight of the rider means the minimum might still be too little. As a tall rider I frequently have my seatposts up to maximum, and have bent several over time, and have fractured one frame. Now I always buy a 450 mm or 500 mm ...


9

Step 1: Get used to bailing out. Put your bike in first gear. Ride very slowly, then give a (small but sharp) upwards jerk on the bars as you do a hard downstroke on one of the pedals. Stay seated. You should have the power to pass the "tipping point". When you do, put your feet down so you don't fall on your butt. Do this until it feels completely ...


8

All those riders were doing a very specific of rear wheel landing where you land into a momentary manual (finding a balance point on the rear wheel by shifting your weight backwards and pulling on the handle bars with your arms and upper back). This lets you absorb the impact with your upper back and legs (the two biggest muscle groups in the body) as well ...


8

As already suggested by @Batman, have a look at this Bike Light Database write up. What to look for ... LED - with cheap lights don't believe the claimed Lumen, Look at the LED specification - a CREE XL-M T6 or U2 are probably the one you want. There's not much difference in them, you typically get about real 600 Lumen out of the cheap lights, more ...


8

"Inches of travel" refers to how much the shocks can compress before hitting their limit. The more inches of travel the shocks have, the large an impact they can absorb. More travel does not automatically mean that one bike is better than another. Different riding styles and different trail conditions will require different amounts of travel.


8

Enduro or AM (All-Mountain) mate. They are more versatile, especially if you don't know if you are going to stick with DH. These days, DH bikes only do one thing. If you don't know what that is or haven't been hooked yet, move the cash to an AM. A half decent AM bike will be a handful already for any novice. Plus you can pedal back up and you will enjoy ...


8

Give tandem wheels a try. As tandem teams go you're not all that heavy. Have the wheels built (or build them yourself) using rims meant for heavily loaded touring, Velocity Dyads in a 40- or 48-hole drilling would be one example. Velocity Chuckkars might be another option, but I'm pretty sure that the most you can get is 36 spokes. In any case what you're ...


8

Have think about your bike fit, I once had horrendous ITB pain from setting my seatpost just a few mm too high. There's plenty of conflicting advice and opinions you can research. As well, are you doing any pre/post ride stretching or body care? I use a foam roller on my legs, just a few minutes in the morning and evening (I commute to work & back) does ...


8

First "a welder" is possibly not the best choice if you have any alternative. If you can find a framebuilder, or a TIG specialist who deals with thin material that will be much better. If nothing else, you need to know that those frames are brazed together (you can see from the lugs in the picture), not welded, and if the welder tries to weld over the ...


7

For those who subscribe to the rules: "Rule 19: Introduce Yourself If you deem it appropriate to join a group of riders who are not part of an open group ride and who are not your mates, it is customary and courteous to announce your presence. Introduce yourself and ask if you may join the group. If you have been passed by a group, wait for an invitation, ...


7

This sounds like it was a very casual interaction. There's nothing wrong with what you did, but it would have been more polite to say hi and ask if they minded you drafting them for a few minutes. Even in a casual situation like that, be careful not to interfere with their rotation or their pace. IE, if you're not going to take a turn at the front, drop ...


7

The things that will make a wheel more durable in this kind of service are: Bigger tires – the bigger the tire the more space you have to cushion an impact, bigger tires also mean that the load is more distributed. Since the bigger tire gives you more support you can also run a somewhat lower pressure which means that there is more flex in the tire before ...


7

Jumps takes time and effort to do right. If you're going to rush or do a half-arse job then don't even bother starting. Design is important - you need to consider run up space before and run out space afterwards. Make the jump wide enough to give options - a metre would be a fair width unless you're making it difficult on purpose. Bailing-out options - ...


7

It's likely you can fix this by making the handlebars higher and possibly moving them back towards you. That means a new stem, which is probably something you can fit yourself. This is the part I'm talking about (photo from the manufacturer website). If you have a 5mm allen key you can remove that stem by undoing all four bolts you can see here, plus the ...


7

People tend to think of fit as something for which there is a single solution, i.e., a particular combination of frame size, seatpost height, stem length, and so forth, all of which will create the optimal size bike for them. In reality, it isn't that straightforward; proper fit can be achieved within a range of values. For example, I have a few different ...


7

Most BMX Levers are "Standard Pull", which means they have the shorter pull and are typically paired with road bike brakes (caliper, cantilever, mini-v, or road disc). Mountain bike brakes (like v-brakes, or mtb disc) typically pair with "long pull" levers, which pull more cable. This is also known as "linear pull" So, if you use a BMX lever with V-Brakes ...



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