New answers tagged mountain-bike
Keep the bike and fix it up. In your situation I would consider a single speed conversion. The beauty of a single speed is that maintenance is lower, no need to worry about shifters, deraileurs, etc. Just find a gear that works for you and the area you ride, and all you need to do is give the chain the occasional lube.
Road bike will bang / jump - what ever you want to call it MartynRoadBikes2 Frames and wheels are just as strong What you lose is flotation of bigger tires. But for commute I would recommend a cyclocross and and put touring tires on it.
Since I don't ride a MTB my answer is just about road bike capabilities. What you can do on your road bike comes down to two main things the size of it's tires your skills These factors do interact: with greater skills you can do more on any given equipment. Tires come in a range of sizes (as I'm sure you are aware). For the kind of riding you propose ...
Two questions here - restore an old bike and what bike for your wife. Lets deal with the easy one - an old Specialised will be a better bike than a department store one. If you need much more gear to be replaced, consider looking for a donor. Add another $100 to you list for things that might need doing - like new cluster and chain rings, brake pads etc. ...
I have a Yeti ASX dual suspense mountain bike. I fitted the Oldman mountain Sherpa rear rack and carry about 15-20 kgs on it without any problems. I use Ortleib Classic roller panniers and have never had a problem. I've completed the following tours: 600 kms Munda Biddi Mtn bike route in West Australia, Adelaide to Alice Springs 1600 kms, New Zealand South ...
Many first time cross racers use a mountain bike. It makes perfect sense, don't go out and spend $1500+ before you even know whether cyclocross is your cup of tea. Most all races allow mountain bikes, the only type of equipment that's usually forbidden is a fixed gear. A full suspension mountain bike will do just fine as an introductory race vehicle. Your ...
I use to say to my mates that they themselves must be made of carbon before they buy carbon. Carbon is good for slim guys, because then it really shows its advantages in terms of light-weight, they get speed, easier uphill ride, etc. As far as I'm concerned, I'd always opt for steel. Yep, steel. There are very advanced steel materials, almost as light as ...
Could be a lot of things. I had an Ultegra in good shape that was jumping around. It was two problems. 1) The cable was a bit frawed at the shifter. 2) I did not have the cassette tight enough - torque to specification.
If its just up and down one gear then you probably need to calibrate the derailleur cage a little using the barrel adjusters. Depending on the make of shifter and derailleur there will be a barrel adjuster on one or both ends of the cable outer which will allow you to make micro-adjustments to the cage position. The jockey wheel centre should be roughly ...
Pretty much been done to death with evangelistic enthusiasm on many forums. Smaller wheels - more agile and responsive, lighter/stronger, easier to control Larger Wheels - roll better over small obstacles therefore considered faster in straight lines, lower tire pressures (due bigger tire) provide more traction off paved roads. Slower to accelerate ...
You'll net to release the cable anchor on the derailleur. Place the shifter in the 8th position. Turn the cranks and the chain should shift the the highest gear. Reset the high limit screw. Pull the cable snug and tighten cable anchor. You will likely need to fine tune with the cable adjuster.
First thing to check is if your rear derailleur is bent. If that is not the case, check the cable tension is not too high. Is the shifter acting funny (like hard to shift)? See this link to see how to do adjustments: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur
If you're looking for a Shimano group set, I prefer the Shimano groupset xt. It is budget friendly. You'll love the quality and the performance of this brand and unlike some of the other group sets it works smoothly.
Boiling water helped but hair spray was best
Generally, it will go away if you apply the brakes a bit (it will be a bit noisy at first, but after a few applications it will look as good as new), since the rust is likely only on the surface (this is one way to tell if a car has been not driven for a few days - rust spots appear on the brake discs, but they'll go away after a short trip around town). ...
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