New answers tagged

0

Nice picture. But you installed the dust cover (the silver ring) upside down. They way it works is that the bearings sit underneath it (but do not make contact) and are protected from all sorts of insults and wear. It keeps the grease in, and the bearings in place while servicing it. The way it is now it will not allow for the race to be adjusted against ...


0

Just the act of rolling up your pant leg one or two times usually covers the problem of it getting caught in the gears. I've also resorted to tucking it into my socks. It seems silly to buy clamps and devices when these two "free" options are available. Nice that it's enough of an issue that it's being brought up online. When I started mountain biking, ...


2

It may last for years and years as we are talking of an alloy frame, but it is not unbreakable. I have a friend of mine who broke a Trek Alloy XC hardtail frame and Trek replaced it with its latest model. Still, neither the front derailleur nor the headset were compatible, so he had to invest in both to get the bicycle back to work. According to Specialized ...


7

I'd suggest using a bike box (there are reusable ones sold and cardboard ones similar to the type of cardboard box that a new bike comes in). A bike shop should be willing to part with a box that a bike they're selling came in (and maybe pack it themselves) for some small fee. This video shows how to pack a bike in a cardboard bike box: ...


0

It can last many years. So many that you will probably have already got a new bike untill then... For example, I bought an Ideal Hillmaster in 2005 or 2006 with an 6061 alloy frame. I learned what mountain biking is really all about. Although being an xc bike, I hit lots of jumps, sick trails and gravity tracks. 2011 I got a full suspension to take the ...


3

The slightly sarcastic-sounding comment is correct, unfortunately. Even if you used a high-end xray imaging system to carefully analyse the frame, the best you could say is "there are no obvious defects found". You might find major defects, in which case you'd probably recycle the frame rather than riding it, but if you don't you haven't really learned a ...


0

As a similarly-proportioned person I know your pains. But I don't go downhill off-road so comments are more road. As for visualising change, try and sit on the bike, hold the bars where they would be after fitting the new part. I used a couple of F clamps to visualise the cockpit when planning an old rigid MTB, and that worked well enough for riding up ...


1

Steve Gurney invented a pod bike and used it for the Coast to Coast race. It's possibly a bit extreme for what you want. :-)


4

Assuming this is your bike, the answer would be no. You could technically add disk brakes on the front, but it would require changing the forks to ones that had attachment points for disk brakes. You would also have to change the wheels/hubs to ones that are compatible for mounting the disk. There is no good method of adding disk brakes to the rear as this ...


1

As @Batman has suggested brake fluid is hygroscopic. Over time moisture from the air is absorbed by the fluid. When the brakes get hot enough the absorbed water will boil. This results in air bubbles forming in the fluid. While brake fluid is not compressible the air bubbles are. This results in a mushy or spongy feeling to the brakes. Once cooled the ...


1

In short yes. I had a Judy on a 1997 Trek Y Five-o many years back. 80mm version if I remember correct. That frame and fork used a 1 1/8 headset steerer which I assume your frame will also have. Just make sure the steerer tube on the fork is compatible and aim for form travel between 80-100mm Specs on the bike I had are here: http://www.bikepedia.com/...


0

Because of the relatively upright position in which one would sit on a mountain bike, this windshield would have to come up much more than just a few inches above the handlebars. A monstrosity like that couldn't be very aerodynamic because of the large area exposed to the air. ie., it'll be more of a sail than a drag-reducing mechanism. Also, a windshield ...


3

Windscreens are more about rider comfort than decreasing air resistance. I would think particularly with the upright riding position of a mountain bike that your hypothetical installation of a windscreen would increase air resistance, unfortunately, by expanding the area of mass that would push against the air. The common advice for getting more aerodynamic ...


0

I decided on a compromise I was looking for water after the ride that wasn't warm and had a powder or energy thing in it to replenish so I put a bottle in the camelpak so it was kept cold by the condensating ice and the energy supplements in another pocket


3

Ensure the shifter is set to the low position - the position where the chain is on the smallest chain ring. Give the cable a tug, it should be taut but not tight. You can make minor tension adjustments by turning the barrel adjuster near the front shifter-to-cable housing connection. If you can not take up enough slack with the barrel adjuster, screw it in ...


3

It depends a lot on the fine print of the bike, and how good you are at guessing where forces will go. Broadly, if you make a solid structure and mount it properly the bike will usually be fine, but most parts of a bike are not designed for forces in new directions. Generally muffler tube is 1.6mm or more and mild steel, where even cheap bikes are 0.9mm or ...


1

You cannot stick weld ("arc weld") on a bicycle frame unless it is some custom build bike with thick tubes. You would have to be so extremely good with a stick to not blow through the tubing. And you would have to use some special rods that have a lower melting point. If you are going to weld on the frame you need to either use a MIG or TIG (preferably TIG). ...


0

I can from recent experience tell you that if you ride on the road, slicks make a big and positive difference. Noise is reduced, speed is increased, handling is as good if not better. I feel safe and don't work as hard. I went with wide ones just a bit less than the knobblies I replaced. But from what I have read, thinner ones are better, which makes sense ...


2

Further to the above comments: Your bike size sounds about right - see here: Evans size guide Stand over height is that you can stand over the top tube with your feet flat on the floor and raise the front wheel off the ground. When seated on the saddle you should be able to touch the ground with toes and possibly ball of your foot on one side at least. Look ...


-2

Firstly you need to confirm the material of your wheel. If your wheels are carbon fiber, you need to use the professional brake pads made of cork which are normally labelled as "use for carbon rims". If your wheels are aluiminium/alloy or steel, use pads made of rubber. Secondly you need to confirm the brake type of your wheels. The mountings for V brake ...


1

You should use the tyres that fit the rims on your bike. If you were a professional you'd use whatever your sponsor told you to, so that's a bit of a side issue. Tubulars are back in the MTB world, but they're still rare and it's unlikely your bike has them. I suggest not buying a tubular wheelset, let your sponsors do that when they decide it's a good idea....


3

Practice, practice, practice. Start moving forward slowly in a low gear and then pop the front wheel off the ground by suddenly pushing a pedal forward and pulling up on the handlebars at the same time, and just keep pedaling while trying to balance on one wheel. If you accelerate to a point where you cannot pedal fast enough to maintain balance on one ...


2

pump your suspension, the lean back while pedaling to get the pop, keep the consistent pedal to keep the wheelie going ( you might feel uncomfortable leaning that far back) feather your break while doing it. i like doing wheelies on gear 3-1 it seems to be the best gear for it. remember practise makes perfect, you probably wont get it first go. good luck!


9

Step 1: Get used to bailing out. Put your bike in first gear. Ride very slowly, then give a (small but sharp) upwards jerk on the bars as you do a hard downstroke on one of the pedals. Stay seated. You should have the power to pass the "tipping point". When you do, put your feet down so you don't fall on your butt. Do this until it feels completely ...


6

It think it's a Swiss bike. The top tube says Velo Sport Walpen Fiesch. Walpen is a Swiss surname from Valais in Switzerland. Fiesch is a municipality in Valais in Switzerland. There is/was a Swiss bike company called Moor, which on older bikes carry this head badge: I found an old German eBay listing in the Google web cache for this bike in Berlin,...


4

Put the spacers back in and see how it feels. If it feels better and your gears a shifting well enough for you, leave them in. As @Daniel says, chainline is not as important as some believe. In a perfect world, you get the chain line right and never, never, ever, cross the chain. But just like the movie, sometimes you just have to cross the chain, and hell ...


2

I'm not a 100% sure however I think the 'spring' in those forks was actually elastomers. The linked Suntour fork appears to have the correct steerer type (threaded) and the steerer is long enough. A big problem though is the axle to crown length of the fork as it is 100m travel. It is likely that the Suntour fork that you linked to will be significantly ...


1

Is it steel? Can't tell from a photo, so you need to use a magnet. If a magnet sticks, its steel. Is it a good bike? If you want to ride it, enjoy riding it, fit comfortably on it and it doesn't fail under you, then its a good bike.


6

From some quick searching, it seems that "Everest" is a department store brand. Most upgrades that you would really notice would probably cost a significant portion of the value of the bike. Other than making sure it's in good mechanical condition, I wouldn't recommend putting much money into this bike. Make sure the chain is oiled and there is the correct ...


4

Sounds like a sticky piston to me. These can be a real pain to sort. To get the unstuck you remove the wheel, and push the pistons in and out a handful of times. Stick the bike in a sturdy stand. Remove the wheel. Squeeze the levers a few times to get the pistons sticking out a bit. Don't go too far as dropping a piston out is bad news. Push them back in. ...


2

Pro: You can run oversize and plus size tyres on a lefty.



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