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0

The "sharpening a knife" sound you describe is likely the rotor lightly touching the brake pad (as mentioned in @Jackson's answer). This can happen if the rotor slightly is out-of-true (i.e., slightly warped) and the caliper isn't perfectly aligned. The sound can also come and go depending on how warm the rotor is. As you add heat the rotor (e.g., from ...


0

With disk brakes the disk rotor is attached to the hub and not to the rim so a wobble in the tyre is unlikely to be the cause of the noise. What I'd be looking at is the following: Are the rotor bolts tight? Is the rotor warped? Are the brake pads worn? Is one or both of the pistons sticking? Is the calipar aligned properly? 1 and 2 you can check ...


0

I'm a total Full-Suss addict, from my first URT (unified rear triangle) and single pivot bikes right up to my current 2014 Trek EX8 Evo 4-bar with fox CTD. Why is no one debating whether gas suspension forks are a "nice to have" anymore? It sounds ridiculous now, but there were those who believed non-sus forks were the way to go for all of the same reasons. ...


0

when there is a problem with noise and visual inspection, it's best if you could make a video and post it to, say, youtube. But if the wheel is wobbling, you need to true it (if the rim is wobbling, too). Also check if the wheel wobble when at rest, simply by using hand to push and pull the wheel side-way. If the wheel also wobbles, the cone might need to ...


2

After I made the same switch, I found I needed to check the tire pressure much more frequently, otherwise I'd get "pinch flats" all the time. Find the recommended pressure on the side of the tire and inflate to that every day you ride. Because of this, you'll need a pump with a gauge. But I'm happy I switched!


3

Road bikes typically: don't have suspension are stiffer (frame doesn't flex as much) are intended for seated high cadence stroking with even power throughout the stroke (vs mountain bikes that expect and withstand very powerful downstrokes while standing) have higher gearing ratios that allow greater speeds use thinner tires with higher pressure for less ...


6

You will find the differences are significant. When you say a road bike, we understand a bike with drop handlebars. Drop bars give you a very different riding position compared to an MTB. Some people need time to adjust to the new position, and can have problems with weak or tired neck muscles. An alternative would be a hybrid style of bike, with flat ...


4

There is not much to be aware of. The geometries range a bit between relaxed “training” geometries and more aggressive “racing” geometries. Get what fits you. Above 1000€ they are all solid quality with the main differences being weight and more or less aerodynamic wheels. If you plan on commuting, a randonneur or cyclocross bike where you can fit fenders, ...


2

If original, this is an old bike - the Trek 8500 went to shocks before 1998. The 1996 is listed as having a 1 1/8" head set, so technically it would be a straight forward swap with a fork with the same headset (Most are now tapered). A shock will lift the front of the bike, changing the geometry. A smaller travel shock (under 100mm) might be acceptable and ...


0

Yes, should be fairly simple, most suspension forks are for 26" wheels. You need to measure the diameter of the fork tube, or it may be stamped on the tube itself, 1 1/8" is common. You need to remove it to check. Also, most new forks use a threadless headset, the stem slides directly onto the fork. But older styles require a threaded stem with internal ...


2

One possibility is that the hub's freewheel mechanism has broken. Maybe it's fixable with some spare parts or you may need a new freewheel hub body or a new hub altogether. Your LBS will be able to assess the situation. It looks like this: https://www.google.gr/search?q=mtb+freewheel+hub+body&tbm=isch


2

The nice people at specialized.com have a archive section with pictures of all the models produced since 2008. Go to the web site and scroll down to the bottom of the page. There's a Support section with Bike Archive as the last item. Answer shamelessly stolen from here.


0

Now then, seeing as it's been in a garage, it's obviously collected dust. Not too far off being collecting enough to seize some bearings. First, wash the bike clean. I mean, make it very clean. You don't want to work on a dirty bike that'd make any new parts dirty, as well. warm water, washing up liquid and a sponge is great. Clean from top to bottom, not ...


0

In normal course ,similar like yours but presently within a min after pumping air.I checked the tube outside the tyre and wheel again by filling more than 15psi air ,as per the suggestion by Daniel R.Hicks and found one recently fixed puncture was leaking. So found the issue and will fix that puncture again .Hope it would solve the issue. There was no leak ...


-1

that happened to me many years ago when my rear QR broke.


5

It seems to be what some call a BSO: Bike Shaped Object. (This is a derogative term). It indeed mimics a Mountain Bike, a Dual Suspension Mountain Bike, but as you state it is really heavy, it means it is made of steel, and not necessarily good grade steel. From what the picture shows, it also appears to be fitted with low level components, but the headset ...


0

How fast? It is completely normal that you lose pressure. My road bike goes from ~100psi to ~80psi over the course of a week with its current tubes.


0

You can give it coaster brakes (but note that it won't be a fixie; it will be a single speed which can coast without peddling with coaster brakes). Just buy or build a wheel with a coaster brake in it (you will need a coaster brake hub of the appropriate width) of the appropriate wheel size, put it in the dropout appropriately and then make sure to clamp on ...


1

Well, it depends… Would you be happier cleaning a bunch of stuff out and getting a shiny new bike that reflects all you've learned? One that will "just work," or Would it be a fun project to build up a bike from scratch? Would it feel good to know that you'd "built it yourself?" Do you have the time for the project? Is it ok with you to get stuck and make ...


1

It is possible. For typical mountain rims, the low limit is somewhere around 28mm. Some differences from mounting narrower tires are following: Less cushioning from tires: Smaller tires can not absorb as much shock from from curbs, cracks in the pavement, etc. On the other hand, smaller tires can be made with more flexible casing and absorb small ...


0

There is another reason which has not been mentioned - the rear hub uses a ratchet mechanism which grabs the wheel in one direction and lets it spin free (coast) in the other. There will be two or more of these spring loaded "wings," called pawls, that grab teeth inside the freehub body or freewheel, this is where the clicking sound comes from. In some ...


2

Apart from these being very different frames with very different uses you won't have much luck transferring parts. In terms of your bike there is very little that would fit: Wheels - won't fit - the demo 8 has a 650b wheel (27.5") the sirrus has a 700c wheel (29") and a thru axle vs quick release hub. (incidentally both are 135mm rear hubs though) Fork/ ...


3

Adding rear suspension to an existing bike not designed for rear suspension is hard - you'd have to cut the tubes, weld them and make sure the result is safe. Adding front suspension to a bike is not so hard, but it will change the geometry. You need to find the specs of the fork and headset that are in the bike already, and then find something compatible ...


2

There are currently 4 MTB freehub/cassette standards for SRAM/Shimano drive trains: 7 speed - Shimano/SRAM - based on Shimano HG 8/9/10 speed - Shimano/SRAM (a 7 speed cassette with a 4.5mm spacer also fits) based on Shimano HG Shimano 11 speed - fits an 8/9/10 freehub (MTB only) - based on Shimano HG SRAM 11 speed - XD driver freehub - SRAM proprietary ...


3

The crash made the chain drop from the currently selected front chainring to a smaller one (i.e if you have 3 rings and you where on the middle, it jumped on the 1st - lefmost- smaller one). The crash didn't change any gear on the shifter though, it just made the chain pop to a smaller ring. Maybe not fully, but partially. Afterwards cranking a couple of ...


3

What you want for road use is slick tires -- tread and knobs are bad for road use. You have 26" (ISO 559) rims, so you need 26 x (something) tires where (something) is a number in decimal form (e.g. 1.75). Going for smaller tires will lower the bike a bit, and smaller tires have to be run at higher pressure (so you'll get less cushioning). There will also ...


2

At 1.5k it has to be a hardtail. Rear suspensions need to be done right to be worth having in the first place. If I was a long-travel guy (I'm not) I would start looking at FS bikes once my budget passed 2k. As to the frame, 1.5k would get you a cheap/heavy carbon frame or a top quality aluminum frame. I'd go aluminum. The above assumes that you are buying ...


0

While higher pressure is generally better for road riding, very much depends on the quality of tire. I had a cheap set of Kendas on my BSO. They were rated for 35-65 psi. For my city riding I would pump them to 35, maybe 40. The ride was too harsh beyond that. I recently got a bike with a sweet set of tires: Maxxis Crossmark and Larsen. They are rated for ...


3

That depends on the tyre, the range of pressures is printed on the sidewall of your tyres. It's your choice what pressure you want - lower pressure is generally more grippy and less bumpy on rough roads, high pressure saves energy. If the road is smooth, go for the upper limit of what is printed on your tyre.


1

Really hard to say without knowing what hub you're running. Most likely the pawls failed inside the cassette body. The pawls and springs are the mechanism which allow cassette to spin freely independent of the wheel (like when you coast or spin the cranks backward). When forward pressure is applied to the cassette the pawls and springs engage and thus move ...


-1

I had same problem and it was caused because the hub was tightened wrongly. It matters what side is tightened first. So it also could be that the hub just untwisted.


2

I think there are several issues with your approach for improving power on bike: doing the same workout stresses the same aerobic pathway, since there are several ways your body can burn fuel it is worth exercising all of them. This means doing intervals of different length with different rest periods. Example: 3x(12+6) min on and off. The on part is ...


2

The Park Tool CWP-7 is the tool for this job. Remove the outer cap using an allen key and then install the CWP-7. There is no need to tighten it ultra hard. Then use an allen key on the CWP-7 and start tightening the bolt. The extractor will "penetrate" the crank and the crank arm will start detaching itself from the other crank arm which also has the ...


0

There is a certain degree of compatibility, but usually it comes with a big compromise, such as having to use a flat handlebar (for your MTB shifters and brakes), smaller diameter wheels (road is 28", your MTB is likely 26"), lower gearing (pedaling on road is easier so gears are higher) or bigger than usual tires (because of your wide MTB rims). By the ...


3

What's the wheel size? If it's 700c, then you can get disc road/CX/gravel frame. Do mind type of bottom bracket, hub widths and seatpost diameter, though. You can fit MTB shifters and brake levers to a drop bar, but that would look funky, so probably flat bar only. For proper fit, stem might require replacement too.


2

Its almost always more cost effective to sell the existing bike and use the funds to buy a (used) bike you want. Its worth doing it from the perspective of learning about bikes, owning a unique piece of art/engineering "franken bike" or just a cool way to kill some spare time. Doing it because you want a road bike and only have a MTB is the wrong reason. ...


1

The "front pedal crank gears" are called chainrings. Just searching for the word should find several options. There are several different bolt circle diameters for 5-bolt mountain bike chainrings. It's best to measure. Aftermarket parts from brands other than Shimano are fine, look for chainrings designed for 8 speeds or less and correct bolt circle ...


1

I have read about damaged lockout systems from big hits while locked, so my advise is treat a locked fork as a fragile fork unless you want an expensive repair bill. Probably the key point is what is "a hard hit" and "high load" for a fork? That said, I have taken a couple of what I would call big hits with my fork locked with no damage, but I weigh under ...


0

Suspension forks with lock outs also have blow-off valves for exactly this sort of situation. It takes a really hard hit to damage the fork. You'll more likely dent your rim first.


1

An easy answer directly from Schwalbe website: http://www.schwalbe.com/en/profil.html "Many MTB tires are marked with a “FRONT” and a “REAR” arrow. The “FRONT” arrow indicates the recommended rolling direction for the front wheel and respectively the “REAR” arrow is the direction for the rear wheel."



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