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1

I can't comment on whether or not your bike is suitable for use on trails. As for trail in Manchester, Clayton Vale has some blue and red routes. They're not the best trails in the world (or the UK for that matter) but they're the best you'll get anywhere near the city. They're right by the velodrome and the Manchester City FC stadium. Here:


2

I was looking into a similar thing today, and the Pitlock FAQ specifically states: "If you have horizontal dropouts on your bike's rear wheel (horizontal and open at the rear), we dissuade you from using the Pitlock system. Usually (almost) all rear wheels are assembled in vertical dropouts (opening diagonally towards the bottom). Here the assembly with ...


10

The single-legged fork must truly withstand heavier bending forces than conventional forks, simply due to physics and asymmetricity. But because of it's different construction, the fork is actually stiffer than most 2-legged. Pros The top is attached like a dual crown downhill fork, which is much stiffer than a single-crown. The wheel axle is one-piece ...


0

With coil suspension you will need to purchase a new spring that is suited to your weight. Resistance comes from the spring so you need to purchase a heavier and thicker spring for harder suspension. There is usually a preload adjustment for fine tuning resistance but wouldn't change the feel drastically. Most mid-high level suspension brands have a ...


0

I like to have shorts that cover my knees when mountain biking but I still wear spandex sometimes. Some of those shorts have cushion built in too and since we aren't generally trying to go 100+ miles, there is not a huge need for aerodynamics.


3

Yes. Have a look at UCI's MTB rules at http://www.uci.ch/mm/Document/News/Rulesandregulation/16/72/76/MTBReglementsENG_English.pdf Look for "course marking".


5

Those guys seem to use basic shorts of one type or another Most (at least those who pedal more than 5 miles per ride and have been riding for more than 1 year) use some form of spandex with padding below the shorts. that catch air Doesn't matter. and might catch on branches. Doesn't happen. The hands and elbows in modern MTBs are very very ...


8

As already said, aerodynamics are less important to MTB's, but otherwise its largely convention and fashion that dictate what people wear. A vast majority of MTB'r are not wearing basic shorts - they are usually wearing shorts made for riding, including padding just like Lycra road shorts, flat seams and materials designed to withstand the rigour of riding. ...


1

If you can find some other tube on the bike frame that fits the clamp better, that should be fine. Obviously if you attach the clamp too high, the trailer will be tilted at an angle which would be uncomfortable for your kid. I used to have a trailer with a similar attachment. I noticed that the clamp can have a tendency to come loose from vibration, if ...


0

For the rear wheel you need a specific wheel hub that you can attach a disc to, assuming your frame supports disc brakes in the rear (check answer from @Kibbee). My advice is to just forget this. In the front however, since your bike already has discs, the change is really easy. You can buy really good price-for-money Shimanos for example, as you can see ...


0

First, I think you made a good decision. Hydraulic disc brakes are the way to go, and the M355 are really nice for the price. Also, I assume brake pads/discs are not contaminated and caliper is straight in relation to the disc. These are indeed the cheapest brakes, and therefore there is not much place for adjustments. If without touching the lever the pads ...


0

Regarding Q2 -- I think both brakes should feel like your front brake -- when the pads contact the rotor, the lever feel should change instantly. If this is not the case for the rear brake, I assume it is due to (tiny) air bubbles somewhere in the rear brake system. It is strange that in spite of this, you observe that the front provides less braking power ...


2

I had a similar trailer clamp it was terrible, I ended up buying a hitch that connects to the axle and removed the clamp. I attached a length of aluminum tubing with some holes drilled in it in place of the clamp. I slip the tube over the axle hitch and then use a hitch pin to keep it all in place. Its on my other bike currently but the hitch looks like ...


0

These 2 videos from Art's Cyclery on YouTube will cover everything you need, they've helped me a great amount with my own Shimano chainset. ...


2

Most bike mechanics will tell you that the best performance is not attained at maximum tyre pressure. My own tyres take up to 4.5 bar, yet the best ride is at around 2.5 bar. For whatever reason, my bike rolls better in the terrrain at 2.5 bar than at 3 bar.


0

If you take this bicycle to an LBS asking them to fix this, chances are they will try spraying the guts of the shifter(s) through every opening using something like WD-40. Since WD-40 gums up after it dries, I'm not sure I'd use that; maybe this video will be helpful. You can also try lubing the cables by squirting lube into the end(s) of the housing. I ...


1

First note that if you get full movement in your rear gear shift you will probably have all the range you need. I think this would be EASIER than working on front derailleur. SO I recommend working on your Secondary Problem first! :-) NOTE: Allow plenty of time for fiddling with your gears. Do it in a warm dry place when you have time so you can learn how ...


0

I'm in the same kind of weight range, and also usually carry a fair bit of stuff around (books, laptop for daily commuting, shopping, occasionally a 25kg sack of concrete for some garden work..., two heavy locks), so I'd say 130 or 140kg is a fairly normal load for my bike. Much of it depends of course on what kind of cycling you do. I don't do sports-type ...


0

I own two Treks, an X Caliber (great hardtail that starts around $650 range) and a full suspension Trek Remedy 29 9 (phenomenal bike, but is 5gs) I weighed 321lbs when I started riding again, and now am about 255lbs. Both bikes have had no problems whatsoever with my weight. The Treks have a 300lb weight limit listed, but I believe that is well under what ...


2

Yeah, that bike is more than adequate for that type of riding. The only thing you might consider tailoring for your riding styles would be the tires. The trail you posted looks pretty smooth. If you got into some trails that were looser or rocky then you could go with something more knobby and/or higher volume. I say just ride the bike and enjoy the ...


2

Says on the sidewall of a tyre. Mine says between 40-60psi. They also have it in 'bars' if you like to measure in that. Check out an example here http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-magic-mary-evo-mtb-tyre-super-gravity/rp-prod118255 Says max 50psi.


3

First make sure you have disc brake mounting tabs on the seat stays. If you don't have those, then it's pretty much impossible. Technically still possible, but not without added costs that go well beyond what your bike is worth. Also, you need to make sure your rear hub has mounting holes for the disc. If you don't have these, you will need to ...


1

I once had this happen before by combining inexpensive saddle bags combined with a inexpensive rack. The bags were not stiff enough for things like groceries and the rack provided no support to keep the saddle bags from twisting. With the heavy weight the bags simply twist into the spokes while riding. I now use higher quality expedition style panniers ...


0

I use to run a Stan's BST rim with non-tubeless ready Maxxis High Roller 2 exo tire. They went tubeless easily worked great for almost all my biking, but if I jumped/ dropped over 4 ft my rear tire would blow off at the bead. I weigh right around 200 and run about 30 psi. I bought the non-tubeless ready tires because Stan's say you can use practically any ...


10

Don't worry about things that haven't happened. Most people new to clipless are worried about the exact opposite. "Will I be able to unclip if things go south in a turn?" Eventually you will get to the point where clipping in/out is completely unconscious. Having said all that, if unclipping when you don't want to really becomes a problem, look into ...


2

Increasing positive chamber pressure would reduce bottom-outs, but at the expense of reduced "up" travel. Increasing compression damping will also reduce bottom-outs but without reducing "up" travel. This would have the negative effect of reducing the shock's compliance which will make the ride harsher, so it's a balancing act where the goal is to optimize ...


0

While not specifically addressing your question, this post from Lee McCormack addresses body position with jumping. Between that post and others he's put forth, the answer is: heavy feet and light hands. i.e. don't absorb the jump with your hands/arms. You use your arms and legs to adjust the bike to the landing (as the answer with the super-slow-mo video ...


2

Your assumptions are wrong. Yes, riders do extend their hands and feet just before landing, but not to make the bike work more. They do that so they can make room for the inevitable hand and feet compression which will happen when contacting the ground. If you don't extend hands and feet then you only have: 40cm absorbtion of hands and feet compression ...


3

If you watch a lot of trials riding, you'll notice they actually land with considerable more force on their rear wheels using their legs as a shock and then (sometimes even gently) touching down their front wheel. Front suspension was mainly created to maintain control on rough terrain. Trying to use your front suspension to absorb the impact of a jump ...


1

You want to stay centered. Don't push the bars down. But don't wait to kicking downwards when the bike is just about to land. Extend in air smoothly so you have room to absorb and get ready for landing. On a hop you are trying to get air so you will be extended. If it a jump you are tying to absorb you will be compressed so you will extend in air. If ...


0

Get rid of the tubes and use Stans no Tubes instead. You'll save a bit of weight where it counts the most, but more importantly the tires will be self sealing. Well worth it, I think most mountain bikers use it and you've probably switched to it by now, but for anyone else that ends up on this page. Here's a demo ...


2

Ah the wonderful world of tire sizes, where nothing is what it seems! There are multiple size systems (French, fractional, decimal, ISO), and only ISO/ETRTO, the "international standard" is (somewhat) consistent. Unfortunately, many people don't use the ISO/ETRTO system. The definitive guide to tire sizes is Sheldon Browns' site: ...


0

Based on a quick search on Google, I was able to find Portsmouth Campground, which looks to be pretty close to the trails. They also have yurts available, which might be nice as they aren't too expensive and you might even be able to fit your bike inside if you didn't have too many people.



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