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1

When riding in wet/dirty terrain it's important to make sure your chain is well oiled and operating smoothly. If the chain isn't clean and lubricated it will feel like it "slips". If it feels stiff in a couple places after cleaning, lubrication, and a ride around the block, it might be time to replace it. A thorough cleaning and good lubrication only works ...


1

When your bike was overhauled they likely replaced the shifter cables. The cables will stretch over time. The result is the derailleurs don't shift as accurately as they should. It is a fairly simple process to readjust them. There are many on line tutorials that will show you how to do this yourself. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself your ...


2

Olympia bicycles are as good as any, and the company has been doing for about 100 years longer than any you mention. Having said that Olympia produce good bikes, they have a different brand for pro-level equipment: Scapin, one of which I am privileged to ride. I gave an Olympia to my brother-in-law, three years ago. He's been riding it 500 km per month ...


-1

Too much oil, either not emptying out completely or added too much back.


0

I would recommend staying far away from used derailleurs, generally by the time they are taken off a bike, they do not function as they should. (bent hanger or cage, etc...) Check ebay for good deals, When I searched this you could buy one for $23.50 shipped


2

Shimano Deore RD-M591 is a comparable part which you can still find -- this is probably what I'd use. If you want to go a bit cheaper, Shimano Acera M360 will work too. You can use any 7-9 speed Shimano rear derailleur to replace another 7-9 speed Shimano rear derailleur provided it has the appropriate capacity (*) for your setup (at least big chainring - ...


0

For the benefit of others, I had the same issue and it turned out to be a rear axle that wasn't tight enough. When it was greased and tightened properly the creak stopped.


1

Yes spacers are fine for this. It sounds like you want to move a few millimeters - 2 or 3 millimeters is fine and the bolts can handle it. A word of caution about bottom bracket spindle: make sure that your crank is clearing the chain stay. Inspect this under load. You might look and think you have enough room for the shorter BB but on your first ride you ...


9

Road typically has a smaller range. A road bike will typically come with a short cage derailleur. Where a mountain will typically come with a medium or long cage derailleur. Yes the mount on the freehub is compatible. It is about the range capacity of the derailleur.


0

Shake the inner tube in a bag of baby powder before installing. It will also help the rim to slip to the minimum energy position as well. Ensure the rim tape is not riding up the wall - this will interfere with the tire seating. Cut excess with an exacto knife if necessary. Inflate the tire to maximum recommended pressure before reducing to whatever ...


0

I would normally ask some questions about the GT to see how it stacks up but since you are comparing it to a Mongoose there really is no more information needed. Don't get the Mongoose.


0

Great ideas above re calculating actual circumference via wheel travel (toothpaste!)...I just used a marker placed based on valve stem, rolled out one revolution (valve stem returns to 6 o'clock) and got 2209mm (it is a new single speed 650B/27.5" MTB). Unfortunately my CPU did not afford a manual entry so I used this table: ...


0

One good route when you already have a bike with working components is secondhand. It might seem daunting if you don't know much - but the gears and brakes should work, suspension should bounce smoothly without creaking, and basically no play in anything that slides, hinges, or spins. A good first test for play is to pick up the whole bike and shake it! ...


1

Yes. Here's a tire size to rim width chart from Schwalbe.


6

The things that will make a wheel more durable in this kind of service are: Bigger tires – the bigger the tire the more space you have to cushion an impact, bigger tires also mean that the load is more distributed. Since the bigger tire gives you more support you can also run a somewhat lower pressure which means that there is more flex in the tire before ...


1

According the Sheldon need 25mm for a 2.1" A downhill wheel tends to be strong (and heavier)


3

Some points. If you bunny hop by getting both wheels to leave the ground at the same, the rear wheel has to jump the length of the obstacle plus the length of the bike to clear the obstacle. A more modern, trialsy and BMX-y bunny hop is what is what is sometimes called an 'American bunnyhop'. In this, the front is hauled up first, then the back as the ...


1

Perhaps a light weight bike and a pedal like this might help you :) AFAIK a best way to make a bunny hope is to start with a correct procedure. Low your breast on the handlebars, then push it upwards and when the time to make the rear fly arrives, link your feet on your pedals (with the teeth on it) as strong as you can and push them back. Your legs should ...


0

Since you mention fixed speed, your remaining options are: higher bunnyhop late bunnyhop (as late as possible) land with the bike pushed (as you mention)


1

Permutube are not good to ride on Middle ground is a heavier puncture resistant tire if you are running racing tires Spare tubeS, tire patch, tube patches, and a pump. Tubeless has a lower risk of failure but field repair is harder (you can put a tube in a tubeless).


0

I used a 32tpi hacksaw blade with a miter box from IKEA that they sell to cut their ceiling hanging curtain rail to keep my cut perpendicular to the bar. It was a bit tougher cutting than I expected. But patience and no problems. I'll echo the caution of carbon fiber dust. I sprayed the area with water and I still got "cotton" at the back of my throat. ...


0

Check the rim for protrusions - is the rim tape misaligned? Are there any lumps/bumps? Any spoke ends prodruding just a bit too far? Check the inside of the tyre/tire for lumps and bumps too. Are you using a presta valve in a schrader-sized rim hole? Could be opening a small hole there when pressurising. Do you always put the tube in the same way ...


0

I ring in at about 280 lbs (125 kgs). I ride 100 kms/week mostly hard pack, gravel, sand, sand over hard pack. Lost of bumps and pot holes but few roots or large rocks. My riding style is fast and hard. I have an entry level Cannondale with an XXL frame which is sweet as honey. I break spokes on a regular basis. I just threw in the towel on the OEM ...


0

I am currently running a Trek Superfly 5, with some cheapy 700cX43mm hybrid tires at about 80 psi. It has a lock out front fork with 100mm of travel and disk brakes for handling. It is running a 3 by 10 gear set that is a little slow for road biking but will climb over anything (especially with some low pressure knobbies). The bars are a little wide for ...


0

The answer depends in large part on what type of riding you will be doing. On the road, are you planning to join local group rides? If so, what pace do they ride? When you say "rough trails", do you mean rocky/rooty singletrack? Or, poorly maintained gravel roads? How much elevation is there in your area? Personally, I would pick a cyclocross bike that ...


0

Go for the 1200 CX bike. Reasons for this I would give: You can swap the wheels/tyres on a CX bike and its effectively a road bike. With CX tyres on you can ride the majority of the off-road terrain you'll come across A $400 MTB is unlikely to be very good, unless you find a second hand bargain MTB's are terrible on road I've got a CX bike which I ride ...


26

It can be considered "impolite" by roadies, but not because of the bike you were riding or the fact you didn't take a pull (although I am sure some will argue for this). The main reason random drop-in riders are generally frowned upon are because of: the dangers associated with unpredictability of a new rider lack of insurance coverage Potential ...


7

This sounds like it was a very casual interaction. There's nothing wrong with what you did, but it would have been more polite to say hi and ask if they minded you drafting them for a few minutes. Even in a casual situation like that, be careful not to interfere with their rotation or their pace. IE, if you're not going to take a turn at the front, drop ...


7

For those who subscribe to the rules: "Rule 19: Introduce Yourself If you deem it appropriate to join a group of riders who are not part of an open group ride and who are not your mates, it is customary and courteous to announce your presence. Introduce yourself and ask if you may join the group. If you have been passed by a group, wait for an invitation, ...


0

The story is complicated and can't be confined to a couple of paragraphs. That's why I wrote a book about it: Fat Tire Flyer: Repack and the Birth of Mountain Biking.


8

"Inches of travel" refers to how much the shocks can compress before hitting their limit. The more inches of travel the shocks have, the large an impact they can absorb. More travel does not automatically mean that one bike is better than another. Different riding styles and different trail conditions will require different amounts of travel.


7

As already suggested by @Batman, have a look at this Bike Light Database write up. What to look for ... LED - with cheap lights don't believe the claimed Lumen, Look at the LED specification - a CREE XL-M T6 or U2 are probably the one you want. There's not much difference in them, you typically get about real 600 Lumen out of the cheap lights, more ...


3

I want a bike that will allow to me ride on the road and on the rough trails I guess we can't be sure what you mean by "rough trails", but if you're talking about what I call "rough trails", a CX bike just isn't going to do it. i don't want the relaxed geometry. I want to go fast. Relaxed geometry and high speed often go together off-road (think ...


2

First I would not characterize a $1200 CX as low end. Yes since they are typically sold for race the starting point is around $1200. But overall I would not call that a low end bike. It is going to have solid frame and mid range components. I would take $1200 CX with knobby tires on the trail over $400 mountain. Not going to have a front shock on the ...


3

When none of the wheels of a bicycle are on the ground, the center of mass is going to accelerate downward at approximately 9.8m/s/s and there's nothing the rider can do to significantly alter that. If both wheels touch the ground while the center of mass is at the highest possible point where that can occur, there will be a severe limit as to how much ...


2

Landing with the rear wheel first is rarely a good idea nowadays. The video, although very "ballsy" and really of great historical importance, is very old school in regards to bike technology, terrain and rider technique. Landing with the rear first is only useful when you need to drop to flat from more than 10 feet where you need a way to absorb as much ...


8

All those riders were doing a very specific of rear wheel landing where you land into a momentary manual (finding a balance point on the rear wheel by shifting your weight backwards and pulling on the handle bars with your arms and upper back). This lets you absorb the impact with your upper back and legs (the two biggest muscle groups in the body) as well ...


6

I can't watch the video now, but there are two reasons to land on the rear wheel first: The first wheel to touch down is more likely to suffer a loss of control or traction. It's a common two wheel maxim that "most rear wheel slides recover, most front wheel slides crash", so you want that wheel to be the rear. It can help absorb the impact. Imagine the ...


3

When you land you tend to go out the front rather than the back. You pretty much never land in perfect alignment and even if you do you get pushed around. If you land front wheel first the rear wheel is going to come around and only get worse. When the rear does touch it will be out of alignment. As you absorb with your arms you only get more forward ...


0

Landing on the back wheel is a technique used to offer greater control of the bike when landing or transitioning between bike maneuvers. When landing on the rear wheel, your positioning on the bike has a greater amount of control and stability. Say, for instance, you need to turn or pivot the bike in order to land safely or successfully transition into a ...


13

Landing on the rear wheel is a safe bet when you are not sure about the landing zone. For example a small tree root would be catastrophic if you are landing with both wheel. What happens is that since the downwards force from the fall is applied to both wheels, it is much harder to roll over the obstacle. If the front wheel cannot roll over, you basically ...


1

This is a very common dilemma. You should ride as much as you can on your current bike. Wear that thing out. Your legs and lungs will get stronger every ride because it's probably heavy and not quite perfect. Starting out is incredibly tough, but if you can keep your dedication up by riding once a week for a year THEN you should upgrade to a better bike. ...


2

Sounds like dirty pads to me, but disks can be a pain to de-squeak. The things I'd check are... Clean the rotors with alcohol, break cleaner or a bottle of ethanol from the chemist. Remove and reinsert wheels. Make sure the QRs are nice and tight, and the wheels are straight/centred properly. Check all the bolts holding your callipers to the frame/fork ...


5

I think first you should read up on the price point people recommend staying with a hard tail. Below that figure (about $US2000 depending who you speak to) Soft tails are heavy with poor rear suspension performance. Almost always, the most economic way to upgrade is to sell the current bike and buy a second hand one. The BD (if its the bike I am thinking ...


2

I see two questions here... First, will you benefit from a road bike? If you will ride it more than you are riding the mountain bike, then yes. That will depend on where you live (are there good roads or paved trails for a road bike), who you ride with, etc. I do most of my riding on my road bike because I live near an excellent paved trail and there are ...


5

You will go further and faster on a road bike for the same effort. You go further and faster on a better (i.e. more expensive) bike. Training is not about going further and faster for the same effort, its about putting in more effort. So, will a road bike make a difference - only if you will put in more effort on the road bike than the MTB. If the idea of ...


1

Klunker as a term is synonymous with early mountain bike (as it is currently known). Klunkers were developed by customising early beach cruisers on 26" wheels (Schwinn predominantly) by spreading the rear dropouts to make them multi-geared and adding moto handle bars and brakes due to their durability and strength (brands such as Magura were initially moto ...


0

Hard to be definitive. But I thought it started with Gary Fisher and others on cruiser bikes with coaster brakes https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gary_Fisher, the Repack Races. He went on to develop the first mountain bikes.


0

While the Triace A310 is an entry level bike I wouldn't put it in the same class as a Walmart BSO (bicycle shaped object). It doesn't appear to be a bike brand common to the U.S. Your best bet would be to remove the hanger and take it to your local bike shop. Most shops have a wall chart that has full size photos of the 50-60 most common types. You match ...


0

That's because Triace is a BSO (Walmart bike). I'm surprised one would have a replacable derailleur hanger. If it does have a removable derailleur hanger, you're likely going to have try a generic derailleur hanger (disclaimer: no affiliation, never bought from them) or if it had quick release (unlikely), something like Problem Solvers' Universal ...



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