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8

This is part comment, part answer, but too long to fit in a comment, so here we go. Personally, I use SPD, and when I ride with a group, everyone else has SPD-SL or LOOK. I'm usually clipped in and across the intersection before they're clipped in. Either I'm just really good at clipping in, or SPD are designed to be easier to get clipped in to. Even the ...


8

I think most people find the bike-to-run transition quite difficult while the legs adjust from going in a circular motion to running. Particularly for longer distance courses. Here's an interesting article from a renowned triathlon athlete/coach: http://www.trainingbible.com/joesblog/2007/01/cleat-position.html The article discusses the merits of putting ...


8

Assuming that you're talking about cleats on your shoes, there are three main attachment systems. Left: 2-bolt, Middle: 2 or 3 bolt, Right: 3 bolt. Notice how the one on the left has a chunkier sole. The two-bolt option is used for SPD which are popular with MTB, commuting and touring cyclists. I use 2-bolt SPD shoes on my audax bike because I'm able to ...


7

Look Keo 2 and Look Keo are Look's current/previous range and they are compatible with each other. Look Delta are Look's earlier range. I'm afraid they are not compatible with Keo's or Keo 2's SPD-SL are Shimano's version of road pedals. These aren't compatible with Look products, (neither therefore are Look products compatible with them). Checking out ...


7

You can get parts to fix this, like the helicoil that work by cutting a new, larger thread into the crank then adding a spacer to bring it back to the correct size. They parts are relatively cheap, but the tool to cut the new thread is expensive. Which means that if you can find a bike shop with the tools it's going to cost quite a bit to have them do the ...


6

If you're never walking on the cleats and can track-stand at junctions and traffic lights they should almost never wear out. There is minimal wear clipping in and out. The reds are 9 degrees of float before unclipping which may increase the wear though. I use the black cleats (0 degrees) and I wear out the bottom of the cleats through walking and ...


5

For a ready made part, see Fly Pedals. This is essentially just a metal platform, which you bolt cleats onto, then clip them into your pedals. They are threaded with holes for 2-bolt or 3-bolt cleats, so should work with most mountain bike or road bike clipless pedals (including SPD-SL). Note these are not yet available, but you can pre-order them from the ...


5

Shimano make several models of pedals with SPD one side, and flat on the other. So they can be used with SPD shoes or normal shoes. Options include: PD-A530 These are designed for road/touring bikes, so are fairly slim, with a small metal platform. (Not to be confused with the PD-A520, which are one-sided SPD pedals, without a flat platform). Personally ...


5

Welding aluminum and steel is not a DIY skill - read This. If you must repair rather than replace, a helicoil is the correct way to address the problem. A crank would be cheaper than the coil alone, let alone the time to fix it. Chemical bonding (AKA. Glue) is probably the only DIY solution. The issue I see is that when a pedal comes off while riding, it ...


5

You will spend far more $$ on welding supplies than the cost of a new crank arm. The crank arm is an aluminum alloy and the pedal shaft is a tool grade steel alloy. You can replace both for the cost of just the gas to attempt brazing the two metals. You'll also have to be really good at brazing not to completely destroy the aluminum crank arm in the ...


5

Yes there are lots of different options with pedals (it's a bit easier with shoes), but they can be summarised quite briefly. Types of pedals: Flat - a standard pedal on many bikes Flat pedal with toe clips. So you can still use any shoe, but the toe clip holds your shoe in place on the pedal. "Clipless" pedals - where both pedal and shoe have a some kind ...


4

I doubt you will find a way to do this; it would require a shoe with a pretty deep sole to recess the cleats into (that's what SPDs do). Note that the SPD-SLs are pretty similar to the Looks but much more walkable.


4

Five Ten Freerider VXi Elements - 398 gram Five Ten Freerider - 399 gram Giro Jacket - 416 gram Shimano AM41 - 420 gram Teva Links - 440 gram 661 Filter - 680 Gram So basically, all the available (excluding high-top shoes) flat pedal shoes weigh the same. You could theoretically shave 1 gram by switching to the Freerider VXi Elements, but that would ...


4

Welding the pedal to the crank should NEVER be done. Pedal threads are oriented such that in the event of a pedal bearings becoming jammed the pedals will unscrew from the cranks rather than injure the rider. Severe injury is possible if the pedal jams while pedaling at a fast cadence or on a bike that does not have a freewheel or freehub body (e.g. fixed ...


4

Generally speaking, when a pedal works its way loose and is ridden for a decent amount of time, it does strip (and thus ruin) the crank arm. The only way you can be sure that the crank arm is good is to inspect it. So I'd guess your crank arm is damaged (especially if its at the point where you can't loosen the pedal). A picture of how its bent in would be ...


4

It depends on your welding set-up and experience, but I wouldn't bother. Assuming the threads still engage a little bit, I'd get some hardcore epoxy resin (the sort that's specially designed for metal-on-metal; it often contains iron filings). Stuff the crank eye with it and screw the pedal in as far as it goes. Once it's gone off if should be good enough ...


4

Mavic pedals are ATAC (see also the cleat page). They were developed by TIME and just rebranded by Mavic. So, I'd expect that they're compatible.


4

First, note that if you're new to clip/clipless systems, it takes a while to get used to it. A lot of non-racers prefer mountain bike clipless pedals (e.g. Shimano SPD) since you can clip in on both sides of the pedal and the shoes often allow the cleats to be recessed (so you can walk around). Mountain marketed shoes generally tend to be more comfortable ...


4

A lot of causal riders appear to prefer SPD's, which is a great place to start, but I here is the argument for SPD-SL like systems. Which I personally prefer and even on dirty muddy roads. Road bike specific pedals (e.g., SPD-SL) are designed for a single purpose, road cycling, and the pedals do this job well. Road cycling has a lot of repetitive motions ...


3

If you don't find any factory made component, you can always get down the do-it-yourself route. Here is a link to set of instructions on how to make ones for Shimano PD 520/540: http://www.instructables.com/id/Pedal-platforms-for-Shimano-PD-520540/ The basic idea of it is to get hold of an extra pair of cleats, affix them with appropriate bolts to a ...


3

Drop the chain and try to rotate cranks. If "skip" feels then I would look into BB. If not, then pretty much sounds like kink in the chain which is very possible on very new or very old chains. Very new chains can be over-pressurised while installing and therefore one link connection is just not flexible enough which makes it "skip" when going through the ...


3

This sounds like there's a problem with your rear hub's freehub body (assuming you're running a cassette). The pawls get messed up sometimes and cause a jump when you're pedaling. If this is the case, you can try to replace the freehub body, which requires a bit of work. You basically have to take the axle out of the hub and get a 10mm wrench down there ...


3

Cleats are the bottom attachment to shoes. Most road shoes use a 3 hole attachment, which is a standard size. Most pedal manufacturers have their own cleat style, but all 3-hole cleats use the same spacing as far as I know. Your pedals may come with suitable cleats if you're buying them new, if not make sure you buy 'look keo' compatible cleats. There is ...


3

There are many factors to consider. Without being able to be scientific about it, people do evolve a natural pedal technique and I don't see the point in trying to radically change it, rather you should first have your bike fit and set up performed properly, and then allow your own natural style to evolve. There have been major cycling champions that were ...


3

If You are DH racing, then we are talking about racetracks and trails thar are known to the rider, assuming that the rider is practicing and getting used to the track, picking best lines for each section and generally speaking, creating/refining a race strategy. In that context, a gear is to be selected acording to the particular needs of each section, ...


3

Those look like Shimano mountain SPD PD-M545 pedals: Looks like a pretty good match to the picture on the Shimano site, but if you don't see a Shimano logo on them, they could be third party compatible pedals. The cleats look like this: I'm not aware of a guide that compares all pedal styles, but there are not that many pedal types in common use and ...


3

The threads are completely stuffed. Do not just screw the pedals back in and do not rely on loctite or similar compounds. Pedals falling off is at best inconvenient, at worst can lead to crash and serious injury. Easiest option is to replace the cranks. Its not a big job but parts cost might mean a repair is a better option for you. The bottom bracket will ...


2

If all the thread is stripped, there is not much you can do (I saw on the forum here, that you can weld it inside, then make new thread). If only the start of the thread is stripped, try the next: 1. put a little grease inside 2. screw the pedal from the other side of the arm (i.e. the pedal will be below the BB) to the end 3. unscrew the pedal, and insert ...


2

Probably too late, but since you said it was just the first few threads, you could run the proper size tap in to clean up the threads. I found this while looking for info about bike pedals for a completely unrelated project, so I don't know the correct thread size, but if you know it, you can tap that out and good as new. No need for helicoils or adapters, ...


2

If you can get it to start on the threads by hand then you can tighten it enough that you should be able to ride carefully home. I've done this before, but its messy (as in, on your fingers). The threading should make the pedal secure itself (or at least not back out) when pedaling forward, but might get wacky if you tend to backspin or goof off with your ...



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