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17

You have to use an allen/hex wrench, that's why they have the hex hole in the axle. Going from the opposite side through the frame is easiest.


15

This sounds like a issue in your freehub/freewheel (both are mechanically the same for this question). This is what allows you to coast without pedaling. Inside these bodies are a set of "pawls" which will flip down and engage a series of splines when rotated "forward", and propels the bike forward. Then, if you move them in the other direction ...


9

I'd wager the two biggest reasons you don't see foot-sized pedals are the increased rotational weight, and the difficulty you would have catching the pedal with your foot before it struck the ground or the front tire. I'm sure someone tried this once and promptly scrapped the idea after the foot-sized pedal struck something. Pedals need to be stiff and ...


8

Well, there are a ton of adjustments you can make, but sometimes a bike just won't fit someone. You may want to look up "bike fit", though this is something you probably should have done before you bought the bike. You can: Move the saddle backwards Move the saddle up/down Change the angle of the saddle Change the stem height Change the stem (to get a ...


6

Looks like a pair of Forté Carve pedals. Forté is a house brand of Performance Bicycles. I checked their website, but this particular model of pedal doesn't appear to be available any longer. (photo from College Tri blog) Here's another photo that shows the "CARVE" logo with the stylyized "V" engraved into the cross piece that matches the letters you ...


5

The Click'R system allows for a more recessed cleat in the shoe. It is a very similar design to Shimano SPD but is marketed for commuters and trekkers who want dual purpose shoes for when they are on and off the bike. They also allow for multi-release meaning they offer a wider range of movement to release the cleat from the pedal making them easier to use. ...


4

Another option to that new system is the existing SPD system with the "Multi-Directional" cleat (SM-SH56). This cleat just makes the step-in and release a little easier than the standard cleat (no numbers on it). The advantage (over the Click'R) is that it's using the tried-and-true SPD system, and when you get comfortable with that cleat, you can replace ...


4

You can try to helicoil the crankset. This is an insert which can be used to repair threading, though you need some special tools to do it. Your bike shop may or may not have this as an option. They may charge you as much as dropping in a new SRAM S100 crankset for this. The crankset uses a Powerspline BB (which means if you to keep the BB, you're going to ...


4

The FSA Warranty is 2 years on cranksets. I would still contact them to see what they recommend.They might be able to repair, recommend a company who can repair or offer you a lower-cost replacement. You didn't say which crank arm it is but they may also be able to provide a replacement for just that crank arm. I would also stop using the crank for now for ...


4

Something is dragging as you pedal harder. The most likely thing is that your rear wheel is moving so that the tire drags against the chain stay when you apply power. This is something that you'll probably need to troubleshoot when you're riding because it isn't likely to show up with the bike on a work stand. You might be able to make it happen by applying ...


4

If the instructions that come with the pedals tell you to use the washers with carbon cranks then you should do it. The reason for the washers is that that they keep the axle from rubbing against the crank and thus damaging the carbon when tightening the pedals.Oh yes, and you can compensate the thickness of the washers by moving each cleat 0.5mm outside.


4

What I'm guessing is happening is that your reaction arm (the thing on the left of the diagram) is not fixed in place. When you brake the shoes of the brake are pushed out from the axle into the shell of the wheel hub. The idea being that the axle is fixed in place and the shoes drag against the shell. If the reaction arm was undone, the friction of the ...


4

Because they are installed wrong. You can remove one crank using crank puller and install it in correct position, or take it back to shop.


4

Yes, this does. Another option is to re-thread the cranks if you take it to the right bike shop, and then install a standard pedal.


3

I always say to myself "back off" - as both pedals unscrew towards the back which helps me remember which way to turn.


3

My guess is that your rear end is flexing and either: Rear rim is touching the brake pad, or Tire is rubbing the chainstay With the former, try checking your wheel alignment and loosing your brakes a bit (safely) and testing. With the latter, look for tire rub marks in your chainstay area where the chainstay meets the bottom bracket.


3

One big difference is where the force is applied. In a conventional pedal, you press down using the ball of you foot. In a foot-long pedal you would have to center the axle so the pedal stays level, but that would mean that the force would be applied by the middle of your foot. You would be losing the power and flexibility that your ankle can bring. Being ...


3

It’s probably more a matter of pedal systems than shoes. High end shoes in both categories will be pretty good and stiff. I can only talk about Speedplay Zero (road bike pedals) vs. Look Quartz and Shimano SPD. The Speedplay Zero have a much greater area, have completly free adjustable movement sideways (as far as the crankarms allow it) and no play, ...


3

You need a large allen key, often an 8mm to tighten that centre bolt right down. It'll pull the crank arm onto the spindle and secure it. The LH-FSA-AL ring is the self extracting bolt, the internal hex bolt pushes on the back of it to pull the crank off without extra tools. That has a left hand thread so that it doesn't unscrew as the internal bolt ...


3

With the cleats of the Shimano SPD MTB style pedals the side float* is +/-3° and system inherent. Nothing else is available. There are however two different types of cleats: One type will only release with a horizontal motion (SH-51), the other also with a vertical movement or combined vertical horizontal movement SH-56). Bikeradar has a description of the ...


3

These are SPD-R pedals. SPD-R is Shimano's older road pedal system, and its cleats have different bolt pattern than either SPD or any other road pedal. The cleats are still available from some online shops, but you need either old SPD-R compatible shoes or an adapter plate to use them.


2

PeteH has implied it, but sounds like something has gone drastically wrong in a bearing somewhere. I'd suggest you remove the chain from the front chainring and try to spin the pedal crank. It should turn easily, with no side-to-side slop. If not, check the rear wheel for the same, it should not feel gritty or notchy, and should not have sideways ...


2

I went from flats to half-toe clips, which had no noticeable impact. I changed back to flats after an accident where the toe clip was upside down and snagged on something. Plus I found it fiddly to clip-in/hook-on at the lights. So back to flats... and the differences became clear. You stay on the pedal a lot better - I noticed that a bad gear change or ...


2

As you have observed, to get good traction for flats (especially in the wet) the pedals have to be grippy. To be able to rotate to enable the release of clipless shoes, the flats have to be slippery. Making the pedals grippy will mean unreliable release when using clipless. Whatever you do, do not try to fix it with DIY solutions such as grip tape, ...


2

Surprised there are not more studies on efficiency of clipless. The original question was to seek a scientific answer, not anecdotal, although many feel clipless gives more, this is subjective if not backed by science. This is the only article I found: ...


2

You have a loose bottom bracket. It needs to be replaced. You need to buy a new bottom bracket, along with two special tools: A crank puller and a bottom-bracket tool. If your current bottom-bracket is cup-and-cone style (I'm betting it is), it can be removed with basic tools and elbow grease. If it's cartridge style, it can be removed with the BB tool. ...


2

Common sizes are a 5 or 6 millimetre Allen key or Hex Driver on the back side of the crank. Or, you can also use a 15mm pedal spanner on the two flats which will be on the pedal-side of the thread. These tend to be a bit thinner than a normal adjustable spanner. Do be aware your left foot pedal is a left hand thread so you turn it the opposite way to ...


2

Hole positions for Keo and Delta are exactly the same. I've switched over 3 years ago and the shoes didn't cause any problem.Even Shimano cleats of the 3-hole type have exactly the same pattern for the holes. And with the adapter Speedplay cleats will fit too.


2

If they are steady on their feet and tall enough than a balance bike is fine. The advantage of a balance bike is it develops balance first as small children don't necessarily have the strength or co-ordination to ride a pedal bike to begin with. We found the wooden balance bikes to be inherently bigger - so for our child we went with the much smaller ...



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