Hot answers tagged pedals
16
Terminology is important here. Pedal Clips (refer here) are straps that tighten around the shoe. Clipless, such as SPD have a cleat - refer here
Toe clips are not common these days - but still used by some (touring and fixed hub bikes) more niche applications. I assume you are talking about SPD style clipless pedals, but the following discussion does not ...
15
The Pedaling Technique of Elite Endurance Cyclists: Changes With Increasing Workload at Constant Cadence was published in the International Journal of Sport Biometrics 7:29-53, 1991. However, it seems to come to the conclusion that they don't really make any difference as far as pedaling efficiency goes.
"...while torque during the upstroke did reduce the ...
13
I doubt that you actually managed to screw your pedals into the wrong sides. If it can even be done, the amount of force required to do so would have easily alerted you that you were doing something dreadfully wrong. Not to mention the aluminum shavings that would have been all over the place.
Pedals can get pretty snug just through the action of peddling ...
12
Like Daniel Hicks says, they are threaded opposite to each other. This ensures the act of you pedaling is constantly tightening them both. If they were both the usual right hand threads then the left pedal would eventually unscrew and fall off.
So, if you're like me and use the right hand rule to constantly assess which direction you should be turning ...
12
Flat pedals are great for lots of reasons, but I won't get into the virtues or pitfalls of platforms versus toe clips versus clipless systems (though I am a big fan of plain old platform pedals.) I will try to give information pertaining to the different styles and a few examples rather than an exhaustive list of specific brands and prices. There are lots ...
11
First let's clarify the difference between "clipless" and "clip" pedals. They are confusing terms as both have clips.
Clip pedals (which I prefer to call cages) look like this:
Cages have the advantage that they can be used with normal shoes. To get your foot into them you push it in from the rear and (optionally) reach down and tighten the strap. In my ...
11
The 'official' tool that engages with that bumpy collar is the Shimano TL-PD-40 bearing shaft removal tool. It's a plastic tool designed to be used with a larger wrench, or a vice. Here's a pic:
TL-PD-40
If you're interested in servicing your pedals using this tool and others, here's a how-to from Park Tool: ...
10
There are three main settings on your cleat:
Fore-aft position, which should let you pedal with the metatarsal heads over the pedal axle, more or less;
Lateral position, which should let a few free milimeters between the inner part of the shoe sole and the crank arm;
The most important for you, which is the ANGLE between the longitudinal line of the cleat ...
8
The case for/against clipless, or even straps, is sort of summed up in this piece from the Rivendell Bicycles website. They mention studies, albeit without citing the exact source, that actually pulling up on the pedal is extremely unlikely, except maybe on short uphill or sprint bursts, and so being attached to the pedal is far from being a must. And they ...
8
My preference is for SPD clipless pedals and "walkable" clipless shoes. But I still have a pair of lightweight "tennis shoes" in my gear for campsite, days off, etc.
Another option, if you can still find them, is the old-fashioned "touring" shoes and regular toe straps. "Touring" shoes are (or were) quite walkable, and it's reasonable to walk miles in ...
6
The main disadvantage to either toe clips or (even moreso) clipless pedals is that until you get used to them you're likely to have a few rather inelegant falls (like pulling up to a stoplight and just falling over). There are other cases where they can contribute to falls (or exacerbate falls that would have occurred anyway), particularly in off-road ...
6
You ask about danger, when/where to use, and when/where not to use, so...:
There's the danger that you forget to unclip when you stop, and fall to your side. This is a real danger, but not a serious one except if your fitness is a bit low (risk of wrist, shoulder, hip or ankle lesion). You should then practice a lot first, both clip and unclip while riding ...
5
There is some disagreement within the cycling community about how beneficial clipless pedals and toe clips are over regular platform pedals. I won't get into the argument here, but feel free to read the above link for the best thought-out argument against clipless pedals.
However, the most commonly named advantage of clipless pedals and toe clips is the ...
5
Is it the pedal or the crank arm? I'm presuming the crank arm, since you wouldn't tighten a pedal with a socket wrench.
If the crank arm is coming lose regularly then most likely the "socket" in the arm, where it attaches to the crank axle, has become deformed from riding it loose.
But it's possible that you've just not been tightening the crank bolt ...
5
Zeros do take a bit more finesse to engage. It's more about alignment than raw force, so even at 130, once you build a bit of muscle memory in the exact foot position, you should be fine. Practice a lot.
Bottom line, it's not (mostly) a matter of force, but the Zeros have much tighter tolerances so your foot has to be just right.
FWIW: I used Zeros for ...
5
About "just threaded" vs "something else", the answer is: they are just threaded.
A possible problem, though, is rust or other chemical bonding, which might make significantly difficult to take the pedal off with raw force (a friend of mine recently broke a spanner, even applying the force in the correct direction).
As for the right vs. left rule, if you ...
5
You'll most likely have a few light tumbles.
Also, you can get "beginners cleats" for Shimano peddels. The propper name is Multi Directional Cleats and the model number is SM-SH56.
These will let go if you pull really hard in any direction. I used them for around 4 months when I first went clipless. Saved me some skinned knees.
After switching to Crank ...
5
No, pedaling while standing will not cause a properly installed pedal to come off. However, if a pedal comes off, it not particularly desirable to be standing.
As far as weight distribution, putting all your weight on one pedal for extended periods will not hurt you bike or cause things to go wrong with the bike.
4
The measurement is for the diameter of the pedal spindles, where they thread into the cranks. You need to find out whether your existing pedals' axle is 9/16" or 1/2". If there is no measurement indication on your existing pedals or the paperwork which came with your bike, ask your LBS if they could test out with some existing pedals to find out what size ...
4
Could be any number of things. The first thing to check (because ignoring it can rapidly cause expensive damage) is that the crank arms are tight. Even if they don't seem loose it doesn't hurt to put a wrench on the fixing bolts and torque them a bit. (If one moves more than a small amount, get a torque wrench and do them up right.) Likewise with the ...
4
They are more efficient. Firstly you need to do less work to keep your feet on the pedals. Though it seems like that might be trivial you do expend energy and or concentration on keeping you feet on the pedals this will reduce that somewhat. Additionally in some circumstances it is safer, your feet will not slip off the pedals when you go over a bump. ...
4
Grant Petersen has an interesting article about clipless pedals and their perceived benefits for recreational riding. I would recommend reading it and then making up your mind. Quickly summarized it says that you won't have any benefits for normal riding and that you therefore should ride in the type of shoes you find to be the most pratical and comfortable.
...
4
I have been using biking shoes with SPD cleats for nearly 20 years, and I definitely fell and got banged up as a new user of clipless pedals. I have since learned how to get in and out of them to the point where it is second nature and I hardly think about it at stoplights, etc. I find them especially valuable for damp conditions, when regular shoes would ...
4
I have seen people succesfully filling the the whole space of the crank thread with weld, then re-manufacturing the thread in a turning/lathing shop.
I have done this to a bent/stripped derailer hanger of a steel frame, and it worked perfectly.
I think you could weight price, availability and safety of each alternative, but very probable that replacing the ...
3
It's not a study per se, but the Wattbike gym machine has a useful power output meter which shows the power being applied by each leg (explained in more detail on their website).
The basic premise is that by smoothing out the push and the pull you can see a visible effect on the power curve on the display. The real key (from personal anecdotal experience) ...
3
I've used platforms similar to this one:
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=22313&category=1669
But after looking around a bit, I saw this product, which looks a little more rugged since you screw your actual cleats into the platform to clip it in rather than relaying on the molded plastic of the platform:
...
3
I figured out how to reassemble this after some examination of the assembly diagram.
I took the body cover off (see item labeled #4 in diagram).
Then I reassembled the spring / tensioner assembly without tension on the springs. I used a magnet to hold the bolt in place while I did this.
Then I attempted to put the body cover back on. I couldn't exactly ...
3
There are extra risks associated with being physically attached to the pedals, however the risks are probably quite small. I found the following articles on Pubmed:
Two cases of acetabular fractures sustained during competitive cycling
cyclists who are attached to their pedals
by straps or clips are likely to tumble with their bicycle
and fall ...
3
I highly recommend going to your local bike shop for some help adjusting your cleats to make you more comfortable. Many good shops have professional bike fitters who can really help you dial the position of your cleats. Proper cleat position will not only help you ride more efficiently and comfortably, but also more safely. A cleat fitting is generally ...
3
This bike definitely has a derailleur and is not intended to operate as a fixie (i.e. something is definitely broken.)
A normally functioning multi-speed bicycle has a mechanism that allows it to pedal forward and coast (freewheel) when standing on the pedals. Many older or cheaper bicycles have a "freewheel" which accomplishes this. Other bicycles have a ...
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