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18

The way you asked the question, it sounds like you think the following is happening: first, the derailleur hanger wears out/weakens, then it snaps, and this causes the derailleur to go into the spokes. It is much more likely that the chain of events is the following: the derailleur is mis-adjusted, when you shift to the largest cog on the rear, the ...


10

I would say that this won't have any effect. Flipping the chainring on a single speed makes sense as you use the other side of the teeth on the chainring which have not been used before. But with the chain it's a different story: The stretch is independent of directions so reversing its direction won't change anything. Also on the small "rolls" in the chain ...


10

You can cut an aluminum soda can into a small strip and wrap that around and fold it like a tiny burrito into the end. Crimp with pliers. Picture lovingly misappropriated from http://billgrady.com/wp/2002/11/14/how-to-wrap-a-burrito/


9

Aesthetically, it's just a case of keeping it clean. Use a toothbrush to clear accumulated dirt out of the little nooks and crannies, like the joints between tubes (especially around the bottom bracket). Waxing the frame can help keep that brand-new lustre. The back of the chainring and spider, sprockets, rear hub, and dropouts, can get grotty pretty ...


9

One proven way to retain the "new" feeling of a bike is to keep adding new parts to it. It's a well known (I would say proven but can't find the article) fact that people experience a noticeable performance boost when riding a new bike or upgrading gear. This expectation of better performance actually does lead to a small performance increase. The same ...


9

Interesting question. Real world conditions are messy with multiple factors impacting any analysis, as such my answer will be speculative, but based on a number of sensible working assumptions. Chainring degradation as a source First lets consider how much material comes off a chainring. Generally speaking, if you replace your chain regularly before it ...


8

This can be a fairly common occurrence with a fixed wheel bike. It may depend on a few different things, ie what sort of nuts you are using, how tight they are, what style of dropouts, and what the dropouts are made of. A different sort of nuts may help. eg something with serrated nuts or washers could grip better. Also you may be able to tighten the nuts ...


7

Where possible, replace with stainless fasteners. Things like water bottle bracket bolts are readily available in stainless at a good hardware store. But most fasteners on a good quality bike are stainless to begin with, so it may be that you're not seeing "rust" per se but rather a sort of corrosion that can form on stainless.


7

Anything colder than -55F (-48C) is difficult to mechanically maintain. Most lubrication products on the market for cold weather are rated to -60F (-51C). Which means that at -50F (-45C) they become almost unrideable and at -55F (-48C) pretty much unrideable. I am aware of products rated for colder than that, but they have issues that when stored at room ...


6

After cleaning I give the bolts a small squirt of WD40 followed by a good rub down. This leaves a very fine film of oil that won't hold dirt but is just enough to stave off the rust if done regularly. The spray also displaces (WD, water displacement, geddit?) any water left from cleaning in any little gaps.


6

The empty ink-tube of a ballpoint pen makes good cable ends. The metal ones may be squeezed into place. If you have a plastic one cut off 1 cm, put over the cable end and heat with a flame.


6

Yes, it is time to change that tire! Your current front tire looks to be in very good shape so when you purchase a new tire you should put it on the front wheel and then move the old front tire onto the rear wheel. Continental road tires have helpful wear indicator dots on them that will show you when the tread of the tire has reached its recommended ...


6

I suspect that the abrasion from road/chainring/cogs is negligible, especially when comparing with other causes. The silica grains (SiO2, present almost everywhere) would be more of a worrying issue than the aluminium oxide, regarding chain wear. The grains are often visible (in sub millimetre size) and easily stick on the chain after a ride on any road ...


5

No, pedaling while standing will not cause a properly installed pedal to come off. However, if a pedal comes off, it not particularly desirable to be standing. As far as weight distribution, putting all your weight on one pedal for extended periods will not hurt you bike or cause things to go wrong with the bike.


5

Since the actual tire has burst, I think the most likely cause is that over the course of the 4000km you have ridden, the tire has suffered a cut or other damage that you did not previously notice. While sitting in your room, the pressure of the tube has gradually stretched the damaged area, and then burst. Inspect the other tire to check for cuts or ...


5

I usually use an old spoke nipple. Slide it over the end and crimp with an electrical (stake-on/solderless connector) crimper.


5

Usually when you take a bike out of the box, it's disassembled. I'm guessing that this isn't what you are referring to :P. If you want your bike just like when you got it from the bike shop, there's a few easy things you can do. Keep your tires inflated to the proper pressure. If you get a decent pump, it should be easy to keep the tires inflated. ...


5

Use fenders with good coverage! They will keep most of the dirty spray water off your bike. You'll be surprised how much less oiling your chain needs with proper fenders. Proper fenders means: a front fender with a mud flap that reaches within a few centimeters of the road a rear fender that starts some centimeters below the chain stays, so that water ...


5

The correct tire pressure for you is typically not whats written on the tire sidewall. That's an arbitrary number determined by the marketing and legal departments at the tire manufacturer, not the engineers (usually it leads to an overinflated tire, which can damage the wheel and reduce control of the bike). You'll have to play with the pressure to get a ...


5

If this helps at all, I used a set of Marathon Plus tires on a cross-Canada tour last year (8200km), plus a bunch of commutting, totaling about 11,000km. I did not get any flats at any point, but by the end of that distance, the rear tire was pretty bald and I decided to stop using it. Here's a picture of the tires around 10,000km, front tire on the left ...


4

I have no way of knowing if this will work with Slime but I have done something similar in industrial applications. You will need a "T" fitting and two shutoff valves. Install the valves on to the "T",one on the bottom port of the "T" and the other to a side port. Install the side port valve on the Slime hose as close to the pump as possible. Connect the ...


4

I love ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) for freewheel (not free hub) lube. What I do is lift the bike-- if someone can help you with this, it's a bit easier-- so that you can rotate the pedals (and make the back wheel spin). Ideally, the bike should be tilted to the non-drive side about 45-60 degrees. With the back wheel rotating, you can see where to ...


4

No, it wouldn't work as long as the frame is not hermetically sealed to keep water from entering (I don't know why manufacturers don't do that). The silica gel can only absorb a tiny quantity of water, a drop or so per packet, then it becomes ineffective. It is only effective to absorb water vapor. You can bake it in the oven to regenerate it. If you want ...


4

I have actually used these options: Epoxy glue: let it dry a little before applying. It is too liquid just after mixed, so let it dry and use it like if it were modeling putty. Thin cooper wire from a telephone cord. Wounded it around the end of the cable. It would look like a bass guitar string. Solder wire applied cold, wound a couple of turns and crimp ...


4

The tool to check for "chain stretch" is incredibly cheap -- something every halfway-serious cyclist should have. And chain breakage is most often caused by poorly executed shifting under load or a poorly adjusted derailer. (Though another cause is a poorly joined chain.) (Poor lubrication is unlikely to cause the chain to break as a first indication -- ...


3

What I'd do: remove the pedal thoroughly clean the pedal threads thoroughly clean the crank threads let both dry apply 2 drops of thread locker on the pedal threads (e.g loctite blue) fasten pedal on the crank well (e.g 40 Nm) If it comes loose after that I'd temporarily try another left pedal just to find out whether the pedal or the crank arm is ...


3

How many days do you have for the tour? Just about anyone (including my polio self) can do 60 miles (100 km) in a day, so long as there aren't too many hills and there isn't a bad headwind. Rain will slow you down (and can make the ride miserable) but won't stop you unless it's very heavy or the weather is especially cold. (Hail, on the other hand, can ...


3

Metallic marker would probably work with periodic reapplication. I'd also suspect spray paint would work as well (even on the outside). For car tires, they sell tire paint pens (such as these) which I think would work on a bicycle as well. Alternatively, you could just hang tags (like repair tags) on the tires and attach/detach them when you want to use ...


3

I generally wipe whatever greasy or oily rag I have lying around at the shop on any uncoated steer tubes as a habit. We're in a fairly dry area so it's not of great importance. If I was in a wet area I'd use a product called FrameSaver. There is no concern with slippage if the steer tube is greasy.


3

Little bits of rust shouldn't hurt anything, but if you're getting lots of rust or it just drives you crazy you might consider spraying them down with a wax based lubricant or dry lube. Finish Line's Teflon dry lube might be a good option because it has a tendency to build up on chains, which means it goes on thick and may act as a barrier to oxidation. ...



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