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A bicycle in of itself is a half of the equation. If you want to eek out as much speed as you can you also need to consider how you interact with the machine. This answer focuses on the human/bike interaction rather tweaking bike specs. Bike fit is a continual compromise between power, comfort, and aerodynamics (Bike Fit by Phil Burke). Simply plugging ...


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I like andy256's suggestion a lot, but I must add some. The way I see it more money will buy you either or both two things that affect your speed (1): Less weight. Less power loss between pedals and road. Andy 256's link will easily let you vary (1) directly to see what it gets you, to vary (2) you need to change the watts figure you input at the top ...


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You can plug some numbers in http://bikecalculator.com/ or http://kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm (thanks @Michael) and see what they say. Juggle the figures (your weight, bike weight, etc) a bit until what it says matches your results. Now guess the weight of a new bike. Not much speed difference huh? Now assume that the better position, transmission, ...


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When you think about the time involved it is worth thinking about the "total cost" – all of the costs (in time) that go into your commute. For example: If you were driving or taking public transit how long would it take you to earn the cost of the commute (don't forget taxes)? Do you include time for exercise in your day? The commute time could do double ...


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The bike should be comfortable and make you smile when you ride it. Do some reading about bicycle fit (I highly recommend Grant Peterson's book Just Ride for a nice readable introduction to fitting a bicycle and all sorts of other information). Then buy a used bike that fits your needs as best you understand them – and that seems to fit. You'll be lucky if ...


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Bang for buck would suggest an aluminum rack, but these typically don't support high loads. Once you start heading into the 20-30+ kg range steel performs better in terms of total load capacity and behavior under load (I.e., less flex which reduces the chance of a shimmy). In terms of steel I have had good luck with Tubus and hear good things about Surly ...


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Check out the IRD Defiant wide range double crankset http://store.somafab.com/irdwicorodoc.html) It has a 94bcd which allows it to run 46x30 rings. Combine that with a 12-27 cassette or freewheel and you'll have plenty of range. Going to a triple presents a few problems: They don't shift as well as a double. You have a short cage rear derailleur so max ...



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