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25

I haven't tried them specifically with goatheads, but I've run through nails, staples, glass and just about anything else you could find in an urban environment on Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires. I have never had a flat over thousands of miles with their Marathon Supremes, either--and they're much lighter and better riding--but they're not as puncture-proof ...


22

The back wheel is the wheel bearing most of the weight and also the wheel providing the driving force. For these 2 reasons it is likely that the forces being exerted between the wheel and surface are much greater on the rear wheel than on the front. This makes it more likely that you will get punctures on the rear wheel than the front - all other things ...


20

I switched to using Specialized Armadillo a while ago because of frequent punctures, and I haven't had any since making the switch. I'd highly recommend them.


19

There are a number of things you can do: Puncture resistant tires. These have kevlar/aramid belting in the tire, thicker rubber or other features that make them harder to puncture. Would need to know more specifics about your bike (especially wheel/rim size) to be able to suggest specific tires, but Specialized, Continental, Schwalbe, and pretty much ...


18

Though there no doubt are "puncture-resistant" tires that seek to accomplish that end by means of extra-thick rubber, for the past 15-20 years the standard for puncture resistance has been Kevlar belted tires, which look and ride like ordinary tires and weight essentially the same as ordinary tires (maybe a few grams more). The Kevlar belt under the tread ...


17

Pinch flats are due to under-inflation of tires. On a road bike you should be inflating your tires to 120-130 lbs. Also, you need to check and re-inflate your tires every time you ride. I just keep my pump right next to my bike, and wind up adding air every 2nd or 3rd day. I see you added tire size - those are older bike tires, they don't inflate as high ...


16

That looks like the sort of hole you get from tiny bits of glass working their way through the tyre, then slowly cutting into the tube. I'd check the outside of the tyre for tiny cuts, and the inside for barely-detectable points poking through. This photo shows the sort of small cuts I'm talking about: Each of those had a little bit of glass or something ...


15

Mark your tire where the tube's valve stem is located, remove the tube, inflate it and put it in a bucket of water. Look for bubbles. This is where your leak is. Now inspect the tire and rim at the correlating point for something that may be causing the leak. Good Luck.


15

The object that pierced the tire and tube may have been left behind or it might be embedded in the tire but hidden in the rubber. This can happen with small pieces of glass, wire, or thorns, especially in thicker treaded tires such as those found on a mountain bike. When the rubber of the tire is compressed against the ground the offending object will stick ...


15

There are three approaches you can use in combination. Preparation Tough tires - people have their favorite puncture-proof tires. Kevlar reinforced tires work pretty well. Hard tires - pump your tires to close to the maximum pressure written on the side wall. This definitely reduces punctures, and can be combined with puncture-proof tires. At the time ...


14

smaller hole in the rim is good (presta +) schrader has piece that inserts into the valve (screws in) with a spring mechanism to seal it - these parts sometimes fail (schrader -) presta uses tire pressure to seal it (presta +) rocks can lodge in uncapped schrader and cause leaks (schrader -) presta does not need a valve cap to keep rocks out (presta +) ...


13

I would carry at least one unpatched, pristine tube as a spare. Put the patched ones on the bike or keep for repairs at home. The idea being that when you need it -- in the middle of nowhere, in the dark and pouring rain -- you're guaranteed that the old patches aren't peeling off or weakened and the tube should "just work". Then swap it for a patched ...


13

I believe what you're describing is the "Rim Tape". The rim tape covers up the holes in the rim (wheel) that the spokes attach through. Without that tape covering the holes, the innertube (air chamber) will be exposed to holes and sharp surfaces that are likely to cause another flat tire. If the rim tape is torn in one spot, but still covering all of those ...


12

Just about any tire is going to be vulnerable to punctures especially as they age/wear. I've found the Continental Gatorskin tires to be effective and I match them with Mr. Tuffy tire inserts. As long as I check the tires for embedded thorns/glass every few weeks, I can go a few thousand road miles or more without a flat. The downside of using inserts and ...


12

They work ok - if you are just riding around town, they would probably be fine. If you are on a ride out in the middle of nowhere, I wouldn't count on these. The ones with glue work significantly better, to the point where I wouldn't by the glue-less ones.


12

Every once in a while it is just bad luck. Most of the time though, if you've fitted a new tube and it starts to leak within minutes, that means you have something on the inside of your tire that is causing the leak. A thorn, piece of glass or debris, etc. Usually you can find the culprit if you very very thoroughly run your fingers along the inside of the ...


11

Presta's main benefit is more about how the valve functions, in regards to getting pumped up to higher pressures. Because the stem of the valve needs pressure in the pump head to get high enough before it pushes the valve stem in, and start flowing air into the tire, when you try to get to 120 to 160 lbs of pressure it works better than a Schrader valve ...


11

http://alchemygoods.com/ They recycle inner tubes into usable products, and will give you credit towards their products for recycling.


11

Thin tires do get punctured more easily. They also require that you fill them up more often, as they have a smaller volume of air, and at a much higher pressure, and therefore more quickly drop to a non-optimal pressure. Also, narrow tires will not be able to absorb as much impact as a wider mountain bike style tire, and therefore potholes and other ...


11

Sometimes it can be hard to find a small hole. Sometimes it helps to mix water and dish soap together and either pour that over the partially inflated tire, scanning for leaks or submerging the tire in a bucket of soapy water. The soap will bubble and make holes more apparent. You also probably want to immerse the valve to see if the leak may be ...


10

You are trading in 'road feel' and perhaps increasing your rolling resistance for durability. For example, a set of Vittoria Open Corsa tyres have 320 tpi (threads per inch) and are quite supple. They will, to some people, give the perception of a smoother ride with less rolling resistance. The same could be said for many of the higher end race tyres. By ...


10

When the patches start to overlap, or you are fixing old patches that have failed, it is time to get a new tube.


10

The Schwalbe Marathon Plus (not just the Marathon) is widely regarded as the most flat-proof tire out there. It's also heavy and expensive, but if your priority is avoiding punctures, I don't think it can be beaten. ISTR reading about a round-the-world rider completing 50,000 miles on a pair without a flat. Specialized Armadillos are not, in my experience, ...


10

In my experience: You only need to apply a drop of glue a bit larger than a pea (about 7mm diameter) per patch; Glue inside eventually dries. If you only have a puncture once a year, most probably the glue remaining from the last puncture would be dry "no matter what". Also, there is an expiration date of around two years, but I think it's two years if you ...


10

Inflate your tires to a higher pressure. Use a pump with a pressure gauge instead of going by "feel". Check the pressure more often. The max pressure listed on the sidewall is a good starting point, but if you're already inflating to max psi, you may want to exceed it a bit. It's likely you have a slow leak, and you're at a low inflation pressure by the ...


10

As for during "How can I minimize the chance of getting a puncture while driving through glass?" Coast and distribute your weight evenly. Don't brake - it will grind the glass in. If you think you can clear it then hop it - be sure you can clear it with both tires. And a hop - not a bunny hop - a bunny hop is for height not distance. There is lot you can ...


9

Also, check your road position. Most of the junk ends up at the side of the road, so you are much more likely to get a flat when riding too far to the right--where you are also much more likely to get hit by a car door, clipped by a passing car, or cut off at an intersection.


9

I've use glueless patches for a number of tube repairs and have found them to be just as durable as the glued patches.


9

I find the bigger problem is not the number of patches, but rather the age of the patches. There is a correlation though, in that by the time you have patched a tube for the third time, I find that the first patch is starting to get a little suspect. In my student days I would patch a tube four or five times, but I often had patches eventually fail. ...


9

It depends on where you are and the conditions. My little tip is: Have the tube slightly inflated before putting the tyre around it. Have the tyre completely off the rim. Put the ...



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