Hot answers tagged

31

They're fine. I live outside of Vancouver so I'm already riding in wet a few days a week some weeks. Just this morning I was coming down the backside of a climb at 70km and they were totally secure. Since the tires are so narrow they don't suffer from hydroplaning. The biggest thing to worry about is painted lines and manhole covers (or other metal covers ...


17

Lightweight polyester or microfiber materials do the job. Pearl Izumi is my favourite. Bike specific rain jackets are a must if you are looking for comfort. Generally they are very thin and have air vents in them. There is no reason to wear heavy rain jackets. Instead, layer up up with a base layer (often merino wool or synthetic thermals) + mid layer + the ...


14

3 great answers here already, but I'll just add: ride more cautiously. You can ride safely in the rain, but you have to remember that the road will be a bit slicker and your brakes will likely be much less effective. Don't corner too hard and brake earlier than normal. When I know a stop is coming up, I usually give the brakes a light squeeze early on to ...


13

Disc brakes are generally more effective in the rain than rim brakes, but using rim brakes properly in the rain has served people well for many years. You need to feather the brakes to remove the water+crud from the rims. Softer brake pad compounds can also help you brake more easily. Also, having good quality brakes that are well adjusted is always a good ...


12

It's (almost) completely safe, but you can help yourself: Avoid manhole covers, you'll often wheel spin if you're not careful be wary of coloured road surfaces and lines, London has just ludicrous amounts of painted tarmac (and the new 'cycle superhighways' are some of the worst) take a wee bit of speed off, you'll still get there, but give yourself a ...


12

Being aware of your weight distribution can help a lot. You want to make sure you are not leaning forward and taking pressure off of the rear tire. You can also help keep your rear tire planted by giving a slight downward twist on the handlebars with your wrists. Kind of the opposite of a bunny hop. As far as braking technique goes, try to be "progressive" ...


10

You are getting some good advice here on rain jackets, but the part of the accessory for cycling in rain that I find critical are a good quality overshoes - especially for commuting. There is nothing more annoying for me that arriving to work and have the shoes and socks wet, there is no chance for them to dry completely before the journey back home so you ...


10

I bicycle year round in the Pacific Northwest and follow the mantra: there is no inappropriate weather, only inappropriate clothing. (Well, snow and ice may be inappropriate weather for bicycling) Despite commuting daily, I only purchased dedicated cycling rain gear yesterday -- and only did that for better visibility and more convenient pocket locations. ...


10

No. It absolutely isn't. You know what happens when an umbrella catches the wind. Imagine that on an unstable device doing 30 mph. Even without wind the rain will be blowing in your face most of the time so you'd have to place the umbrella right in front of you for it to offer any kind of effective shielding from the rain. How are you supposed to ...


9

Rainclothes designed for cycling, preferably in a material that "breathes" (Goretex being the best known, I think). You will still get wet from the inside if you go too fast, but this type of material is way better than "non-breathing" varieties. I have a Gore Bike Wear Path jacket and pants that I am pretty happy with. Rainclothes for biking is essential ...


9

The other answers covered this quite well, but I can speak from recent personal experience. I got a Bike Friday Tikit with skinny, treadless Kojak tires earlier this year, and I had the same concerns you do -- should I ride in the rain or not? As you may be able to make out in the picture, I do ride this bike in the rain. The Kojaks grip wet pavement as ...


9

No. Cycling while holding something in your hand is inherently dangerous. You have much less control over the bike and you can only operate one of the brakes. You can buy various contraptions for attaching an umbrella to a bicycle. There's also the Uberhood: However, this got a poor review in The Guardian Bike Blog: once open atop the bike it refused ...


8

From my experience the biggest loss in grip between MTB tires and slicks is on the sand (especially sand on tarmac), mud and snow. On ice there is no grip in either case. On wet surface the slicks are actually better and this makes the border conditions thinner, you either grip well or skid completely.


8

The only way that I've found to get them to stop squeaking is to burn the water off. Big steep hill and stop at the bottom. As for performance, I don't notice any difference in the feel of my BB7's in the wet vs. the dry after a couple seconds of use. Even in rain puddles up to the bottom bracket.


7

I agree with Daniel R Hicks, my bell also gets a lot dampened in the rain, and this will happen with any bell. But even so, some bell properties might influence: Steel is denser than aluminum, so a similar-sized steel bell could have more mass and ring longer; Bigger rings might also ring longer, because of the relation among size, mass, wall-thickness, ...


7

You can try one of these. I got one at an antique junk shop for 5 bucks. You'll definitely get people's attention.


7

Maybe you could strap one of these to your helmet. Then at least your hands are free and it's always pointed in the right direction. It'd probably get torn away in super high wind (hopefully not with your head). I couldn't find a picture but you could even try it with one of those deep, shoulder width, clear umbrellas too. Then your shoulders would be ...


6

In addition to all of the suggestions already, and slightly off-topic, if you're riding your bike in heavy rain and you're on skinny wheels and tyres be very careful when riding through puddles. Even apparently shallow puddles can conceal fairly deep potholes and a buckled wheel or being thrown off your bike into the path of oncoming traffic could put a ...


6

Bike tires are treaded to grab on customers rather than the road. Obviously, different tread patterns will perform differently off road, that is: on earth, mud, gravel, sand, roots.. BUT - contrary to popular belief - on the road, whether it is concrete, tarmac or asphalt, treads will do nothing except offer a slightly slower ride and at the same time, less ...


6

Short answer: you won't stay dry. Your best option is to maintain comfortable body temperature. Longer answer: What to wear depends how cold it is, how hard it's raining, and whether your bike is equipped with fenders. In the Pacific Northwe't, we have a lot of light rain and a moderate temperature band. I keep the fenders on year-round (which makes me ...


6

I think of three kind of mud guards that fit the description: musguard, quickfix, and fender bender. An other solution is the ass saver, but this is not what you are looking for.


6

Fenders don't fall into an "ok with racks" or "not ok with racks" category. Generally speaking, most traditional fender designs will work on bikes with racks attached. There may be certain combinations of fenders and racks that are problematic, but those are the exception. An example of a problem would be a bike whose rear rack is very close to the top of ...


6

So why, for the bicycles, smooth tires would be better on wet floor ? Is this from the thickness of the tire ? Yes, that and the relatively high pressure combine to displace water around the tyre. You don't need special features to move the water if it can easily part around the tyre, and the contact patch pressure is high enough that the water really ...


6

I wanted to disentangle a few concepts here as most discussions around tire tread and wet conditions have typically been in regards to hydroplane/aquaplane, which other answers have correctly indicated is not a general problem for bicycles. While tire tread is not needed to prevent hydroplaning, tire tread can still play a role in traction, explicitly ...


5

Biking raingear is always a compromise. Do you want to get wet from the rain or from sweat, or a little bit of both? I use a Foxwear jacket and pants, and I stay dry if I go slowly and don't work up a sweat. The material is warm but somewhat wicking and water resistant. In the summer I'll be more likely to change into lycra for the ride and just get wet, ...


5

Here's some technique: Slow down. Allow extra distance to come to a stop. Hang your back end over the saddle, to shift weight toward the rear of your bike. Brake harder on the rear wheel than the front wheel; doing this reduces the risk that your front wheel will lock and cause you to fall.


5

http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/radar/index_e.html Use the moisture radar, it's your best tool to see when the rain is coming and when it's going with great detail. If you take the time to familiarize yourself with it you'll start to get a feel for how different types of rain look on the radar and where it's going to hit.


5

I've done my motorcycle test and know all about defensive riding techniques - and you apply it no matter what bike you are riding. I ride both rim and disc brake bicycles on my winter training and on my commuter bike. On the winter bike I have swapped out the pads to a softer compound for better braking performance (but not so good for longevity). Even with ...


5

Use fenders with good coverage! They will keep most of the dirty spray water off your bike. You'll be surprised how much less oiling your chain needs with proper fenders. Proper fenders means: a front fender with a mud flap that reaches within a few centimeters of the road a rear fender that starts some centimeters below the chain stays, so that water ...



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