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11

There are bicycles with a crankshaft that runs through the rear axle. The "Tur Meccanica Bi Bici" is such a bicycle: I can't tell from your picture if it's the same bike or not, but it certainly could be.


7

If both bikes have a frame which is set up for it, with the long drop-out on the Thorn pictured below and the EX Box below it, then it would be the work of 5 minutes. Just unscrew (possibly by hand) that big nut on the ex-box, remove the wheel and put it onto the other bike. The only issue to remember is to always shift to the same gear (say, the lowest) ...


6

The outer ring looks like a lock ring. This should help you get it off:


6

They aren't necessary, but they are a great help to properly aligning your wheel in the dropouts in an efficient manner. If these screws are adjusted correctly, you'll be able to just put your wheel in, pull it all the way back and tighten your axle nuts and your wheel will be arrow straight in the frame. If not, You'll need to manually align your wheel each ...


6

First off, the number one cause of broken spokes is not enough tension. When spokes aren't tight enough they load and unload with each revolution of the wheel – basically they are getting bent back and forth each time they go around. Over time they break, just like bending a paperclip. The most likely place for the spokes to break are at the bend at the hub. ...


5

I guess the derailleur hanger or the bit of frame it connects to must be bent. These can be bent back. Of course Sheldon Brown has some advice, but I'd be afraid to do this myself and instead take it to the LBS who will have the tools.


5

Looks like an attaching point for some kind of trailer, maybe a single wheel trailer.


4

By far the most likely reason is that you've over tightened the bearings. Did you feel as if you needed 3 hands to get it back together? If not, you did it wrong. :) As usual Sheldon has a pretty good writeup on this, but the basics are easy enough. Put one side back together, tighten it up as best you can. Set the cone on the other side to the correct ...


3

Not something I do often enough to worry about, but certainly a 'problem' I also have.... One solutiojn that comes to mind is write "Install" and "Remove" in the side of the handle you can see when installing and removing (My luck would be I would get it wrong way round).


3

super-reliable not too heavy low maintenance not super expensive Any Shimano XT hub M76X - M77X. Also confider the newer T7XX "touring XT" models. Shimano hubs are exclusively (afaik) loose-bearing rather than cartridge hubs, so they're easily serviceable and the balls are available almost everywhere. The XT range should also have decent seals, durable ...


3

1) It's hard to say what's normal - what sort of riding have you been doing on it, as in, have you been going over a lot of curbs and potholes? The more you bounce on it, the more strain it'll have. Have you hit one particular pothole hard recently? How heavy are you? The heavier you are, the more likely you are to damage the wheel. 2) You should take it ...


3

Most of times the axle is broken when not accurately jumping with bike (the same is with obstacles on road like holes and speed bumps). Wheels with freewheel are more exposed to this because their bearings (i.e. the place where wheel touching the axle) far from the place where the bike touch the wheel, therefor it have more moment to brake the axle. To the ...


3

To follow up on Tha Riddla's answer: If your freewheel is freewheeling in both directions, in all likelihood it is gummed up inside and the pawls are stuck open. (As a small note: the freewheel is separate from the hub and contains bearings, pawls, springs, and some lubricant.) You can either try to overhaul the freewheel or purchase a new one (they range ...


3

You'll need a freewheel removal tool like the Park FR-6 http://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-FR-6 You can attach that to the freewheel and then use a wrench to remove the freewheel.


3

Try adjusting the tire pressure you may be to high or to low. If it is low the sidewall can squirm inturns making handling inconsistant, too high and the tire can be so hard it bounces off the surface when hitting any imperfection.


2

I don't think you'll have a problem. Aero spokes are no less strong than regular double butted spokes. I use them for downhill riding and whenever one breaks (due to bad handling, loose spokes or extreme impacts) it is never on the bladed flat area. They'll either break close to the nipple or close to the spoke head. Also note that usually spokes break one ...


2

It's really up to you how often to check your adjustments, but I'd say it's not an "every ride" kind of check, unless you're giving your drivetrain a workout! If there's any damage to the derailleur, hanger, or rear wheel, you may want to start there as well. To specifically address your questions: You should check your limits any time you have a ...


2

Wheels eventually do simply wear out, but we're usually talking tens of thousands of kilometers or at least several years for the average user. If it's been less than a year, you shouldn't expect to have to dish out any money for this repair. I believe those wheels typically have a two year warranty. If you bought the wheels at a shop, the shop should ...


2

I have replaced probably three or four axles like yours in the last few months. It is fairly easy; the only special tools that you need are usually cone wrenches (very skinny wrenches to hold the cone-nuts in your hub). The axles are cheap (maybe 10 bucks or so online). You will also need a regular 17 or 16mm box wrench. Is your axle a quick release (it is ...


2

Yes. It's possible. Newly laced wheels often have "flat spots" where the rim is out of round. Generally you round and dish the wheel before you start trueing it. It's possible that the wheel has a flat spot that you are feeling. However, there are another possibilities to include bad tyre mounting, improperly secured wheel (axle), bad tyre and ...


2

If it happened in a week, you should take the bike back to the shop you bought the bike from and get them to give you a new wheel (or at least fix the one you have) for free [generally, they should have you take the bike in for a service after ~30 days / 50 miles, whichever comes first, for free]. Any competent bike shop should be able to replace a few ...


2

By "cosset" you probably mean "cassette". It's a type of rear hub construction and is the norm for modern bikes. Freewheels were used in older bikes. Wheel spacing is the distance between rear dropouts, ie the width of the hub that fit in the rear fork. If you can manage it, the easiest way to answer all the questions by bike shops is to take the frame ...


2

It should be easy to replace your wheel. The wheel is a 26" (this is a standard mountain bike size wheel), and you will also need to match it to the right cassette. from looking at your bike, its likely a 7 or 8 speed cassette. Your local bike shop should be able to tell what size cassette you need based on your rear deraileur, which wasn't stolen. With ...


1

You're not typically carrying heavy loads while randonneuring, any quality, road hub should work. I think an MTB hub is overkill. I've used American Classic hubs for MTB race wheels, but I probably would not choose American Classic for randonneuring. I have thousands of brevet and randonnee miles on Shimano Ultegra, Cycle Ops Power Tap, and Schmidt SON hubs, ...


1

I randonneur extensively (on a touringy Kona Jake with a saddlebag) and have found Novatec hubs with sealed industrial bearing to be very cost effective, offering tens of thousands of kilometers with virtually no maintenance and no degradation of performance to speak of.


1

You've probably permanently deformed the rim by riding it with loose and broken spokes for so long. When you get a wheel, you should check the wheel and make sure the spoke tension is set evenly and the wheel is true. Did you buy the wheels at a bike shop? If so, they should have taken the wheels out of the box (if not custom built) and checked the spoke ...


1

Having converted 2 70-something Motobecans, take to your best local shop to figure out what fits your bottom bracket. As Mikes asked French? Reverse threads? As a last resort, Velo Orange has a bracket that will work. DO get rid go the cottered cranks!


1

As @ Daniel R Hicks has suggested you need the proper hardware. From the photo it appears you have conventional/automotive nuts. You need flanged nuts or oversized washers with a serrated face or both. The oversized washers are thicker and have a larger overall diameter but the correct size hole for the axle.The dropout is the slotted section of the frame ...


1

I don't believe these would move without external force but worth checking at every service. No, the upper limit screw should prevent this from happening. Cable tension can be adjusted (most shifters and some RD have barrel adjusters) to optimize shifting between gears. Outer limits are fixed. 3 I can think of: derailleur alignment, is the hanger bent is ...



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