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Check: Freehub body: no play radially? laterally? Try to reproduce it when lightly apply the brake (with barrel adjuster) and hand-pedal while the bike on stand. does it still wobble? Cassette spacing: remove the cassette and see if there is any irregularities in the spacer.


So you might be about two links short, or you could move the wheel forward. The purpose of the adjusters is to make it easy to position the wheel. The tension on the quick release skewer is what actually keeps the wheel in place. From what you describe it sounds like the skewer wasn't generating enough tension. Try this: Locate the wheel where you want it ...


It should be easy to replace your wheel. The wheel is a 26" (this is a standard mountain bike size wheel), and you will also need to match it to the right cassette. from looking at your bike, its likely a 7 or 8 speed cassette. Your local bike shop should be able to tell what size cassette you need based on your rear deraileur, which wasn't stolen. With ...


Unless you've recently replaced the rear cassette and chain you'll probably need to replace the chain if you buy a new cassette as they 'wear in' together. You might get away with it but you'll soon know if there is a slipping or crunching noise when you put the pressure down when pulling away or climbing. If you need a new chain you might also need new ...

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