New answers tagged rear-wheel
First off, the number one cause of broken spokes is not enough tension. When spokes aren't tight enough they load and unload with each revolution of the wheel – basically they are getting bent back and forth each time they go around. Over time they break, just like bending a paperclip. The most likely place for the spokes to break are at the bend at the hub. ...
That is technically not a mtn bike. The width is not published on the site and as it is a hybrid it could be a few widths. Take the bike or wheel to the shop. If you no longer have the wheel then take the bike. You should have saved the wheel if for nothing more than I need one of these. Even if it is a freewheel you may want to go freehub if you get a ...
By "cosset" you probably mean "cassette". It's a type of rear hub construction and is the norm for modern bikes. Freewheels were used in older bikes. Wheel spacing is the distance between rear dropouts, ie the width of the hub that fit in the rear fork. If you can manage it, the easiest way to answer all the questions by bike shops is to take the frame ...
What I think you are saying is that when you stand beside the bike and push it side-to-side you can see the wheel wobble. That sounds to me like the bearings in the rear hub need to be adjusted. They don't need to be far out for it to cause significant movement at the rim.
A warped frame will not cause wobble when the wheel is moved by hand. A warped frame can cause wobble when riding at speeds since the wheel is not straight. However, if the wheel has play (moves side to side without rotating) in the frame, then the hub is not properly adjusted or is damaged. The noise issues could be from any number places and should ...
Really hard to say without knowing what hub you're running. Most likely the pawls failed inside the cassette body. The pawls and springs are the mechanism which allow cassette to spin freely independent of the wheel (like when you coast or spin the cranks backward). When forward pressure is applied to the cassette the pawls and springs engage and thus move ...
I had same problem and it was caused because the hub was tightened wrongly. It matters what side is tightened first. So it also could be that the hub just untwisted.
Replacing the axle has worked, but the new axle takes un-keyed washers. It's much harder to adjust pre-load correctly between the cone, washers, locknut, and quick-release. Bikeforums.net suggest these hubs are garbage, so I am looking into building a new wheel.
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