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Here's how I optimized my Townie for max speed, yet max slow climbing ease. (I'm an old man.) In MTB style, I replaced the chainwheel/crank with a 22t/48t combo (the max spread that 4-bold 2x setups can take these days.) Then with 2 cassettes combined (cogs & spacers from the 8sp CS-HG51 11-30t and the 9sp CS916A HG-400 12-36t) with a Wolf Tooth 42t ...


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Yeah, I managed to do this one one of my bikes once. There was no way I could brute force the chain from between the cassette and the spokes. My suggestion would be to use a vice, or do you have one of those Workmate things? The first thing I'd do is to break the chain and get the whole "wheel and chain" mess away from the frame. It just gives you more ...


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Here's a quick, safe, and easy way to loosen and remove stubborn pedals:


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1) It is correct that the glue dries out soon after first use. Many glues does that and the makers do not provide solutions to the problem because it will reduce sales. 2)All farmaceuticals today are sold with small quatities individual packed (each pill packed separately). It would be the easiest thing to do with glue. But see 1). Lars Bryndum


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Are you pretty good mechanically? You could try this: Repairing stripped pedal thread


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Yes, you need to replace the crank arm, if tightening the bolt does not make it 100% solid again. No doubt the crank arm had been loose for days, and had you tightened it earlier you might have "saved" it. And there's some danger that you have damaged the crank axle as well, meaning the bottom bracket cartridge will need changing out as well. I have ...



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