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First: don't try truing a wheel you rely on without experience! If spoke tension is high on the side of the rim deviation, then you can improve the true by adjusting spoke tension. If spoke tension is low on the side of the deviation or the tensions are roughly even, then the rim is bent and trying to fix it with tension will make the tension balance worse. ...


You haven't said what the frame material is, but if steel obviously yes. Aluminum (and carbon) not so much, but it will add weight. However, in any case it will pose a danger to your bottom bracket. Water will eventually seep past seals and into the bearings, leaving you with a stuck or severely degraded bottom bracket. Your problem could be water ...


A trick that not many people believe but works amazingly is to try and tighten a bolt/nut, or in this case BB before trying to loosen it, and repeating if necessary. I assume this works as it breaks down corrosion or dirt, etc.


I think you never understand frame condition by smell :). Aluminum and its alloys are great materials, but they could be destroyed by aggressive liquids (salt, acids etc). If I were you Check the lowest frame corners (usually here manufacturers make little holes, to let water out). If you able open it and try to look inside or check by hands. That's ...


Presumably that's 52 cm. Generally, a crack in an Al frame (or most frames), especially in an area which gets a lot of stress makes it scrap (esp. if its supposed to be used off road). Given this, I'd scrap this frame.


Unless you have a lathe the tolerances are going to be too high for you to be able to to do an acceptable job here. Plus, I believe that the cone is surface hardened, after you grind through that the underlying material will be too soft. If you visit your local bike shop they should be able to match it up.


It could be: The pedal itself (even if it moves freely) The other pedal The bottom bracket The saddle Loose crank Try to isolate each one of these by taking the weight off each in turn. I was recently convinced my saddle was creaking as it only happened when sitting down but it turned out to be the left pedal!


So I ended up bringing the bike into the shop. The friendly bike mechanic had let me borrow and old bottom bracket tool because they didn't have any other tools in stock. Long story short, he ended up using a 6 foot pipe on his bottom bracket tool to get it to move. The tool by itself did no good and the impact wrench did nothing. I think I'm going to buy a ...


Assuming you've got the right direction you're turning and its still not budging, use some penetrating oil and/or borrow a breaker bar/vise (and use it carefully). One of the things with your style of tool vs the park tool style of tool is that you can't get as much torque on. In the case of aluminium, its conceivable that theres some corrosion, but ...


I have seen a situation where a internal-geared hub is used with a standard rim, and the (large) diameter of the hub results in the spokes approaching the rim at a fairly sharp angle (made worse by this being a 26" bike). This results in excess fatigue at the nipples and resulting spoke breakage there. Not sure how to fix this other than to get a new rim ...

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