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9

When you remove all the thorns very carefully you could keep using the tire. Unfortunately this might be some hassle with 30+ thorns and you can not be a 100% sure that you really have removed all of them. Also some may have broken off in a way that you see the remains from neither inside nor outside but the remains may be pushed further inside after some ...


8

From personal experience, I'd say a larger-than-usual hole in the tire could have these undesireable side-effects: The tube might get a bit exposed, and the day-to-day rolling over the hole might wear it down until the tire eventually flats out. Chemical aggresion from road grime or mud could also be involved. The fabric of the tire might get damaged to ...


7

Generally, if you are using an inner tube in the tire, you should replace the tire if there is more than a 2 millimeter cut in the tire casing. Not in the rubber, mind, but it the threaded cloth casing that you rubber bits are laid on to. I personally err on the side of replacement rather than risking a serious injury from a blow out at a bad time, so I ...


6

Generally, you repair tubes, not tires. From your last sentence, it sounds like you are indeed talking about the tire. As it is with the tube, the real answer is "Size Matters". In this case, both the size of the hole and the size (okay, type) of the tire. If I was looking at damage to a road tire "slick", the hole you describe would likely having me change ...


5

I don't think any manufacturer will give you any warranty in case of "abuse" of its products – and it surely could be considered abusive to have a crash with their clothing, even if it was sold as mountainbike clothing. There may be some exception with protective gear, but even then the manufacturer might argue that it was designed to get damaged or ...


5

The 14/28 is the number of teeth on the smallest and largest cog of the cassette. From your description you want to make at least the second number smaller, possibly the first number. As long as your replacement says that it's Shimano compatible (and 7 speed), you should be fine. Count the teeth on the cog that has the most teeth that you actually ...


4

I had the same problem (48x38x28 chainset). It turned out that MF-TZ21 is actually not a 'cassette', but a 'freewheel'. Your options for that are very limited: In the UK, Raleigh is distributing a 7 speed 13-24T model for less than 10 quid. SunRace is still producing 7 speed freewheels, but the closed-spaced 12-?? model wasn't distributed in the UK: Check ...


4

Always BEST to just replace the tire, but... I have ridden my tires with a gash of an inch or longer. I couldnt recommend it to everyone (legal issues) but I do it all the time. I take an old tube, cut about a 2 inch section out of it (so you have a 2 inch long tube, not just a patch), wrap duct tape around it then duct tape that onto the inside of the tire. ...


4

Just to enrich this answer, there are the two systems nowadays for mounting the brakes on the fork and frame; these are IS or postmount: http://www.pricepoint.com/TechPages/TECH_Page_Disk_Mount_Types.htm Normally you can find adapters to use one or the other. Regarding the disk-hub mounting, there are also two options, - 6-bolt (the name is ...


4

To directly answer your question, yes, the Crank Bros Premium Cleat is the one you want. Per their webiste - compatibility: eggbeater, candy, smarty, acid, mallet ( http://www.crankbrothers.com/accessories_premium_cleat.php ) Some good FAQ on these from Crank Bros: http://www.crankbrothers.com/support/faq_candy.php


3

Rear derailleurs don't care whats up in front and vice versa. Rear derailleurs don't care about the number of cogs in the back, but front derailleurs care about the number of chain rings (you can get a triple derailleur to play nice with a double chainring, but you should probably get the right part to begin with). Speeds are mostly marketing though, as ...


3

Since it sounds like you have mechanical disc brakes (Avid BB5 or Tektro Novela not hydraulic) then any direct-pull or V-Brake lever should work fine with your cable. Searching for 'V-Brake levers' or 'mechanical disc brake levers' should provide plenty of responses. For example, if you look at the spec page for the Avid FR-5 lever, you will see that they ...


2

I've never heard of repairing a bike tire. Maybe if it were tubeless you could plug it, just as you do on your car. But if not...I guess if you're just cruising around town give it a shot. If you are pushing the limits on this thing, buy a new tire. Worst case you blow out and slide under a truck (or into a tree maybe if we're talking mountain biking?). Best ...


2

Take the shifter cable out and lubricate it, or replace it if it looks like it needs to be replaced. If the pivots are as well maintained as you say they are, it could be the cassette that needs to be replaced. Most of the time you change an old chain, you need to change the cassette for things to continue to be smooth. From what you describe, the SX410 is ...


2

Frame clearance can be a problem, especially if the mud is sticky and the tire too close - it can clog up quite badly if you go too wide. If you have V brakes, these can also, however my experience has been worst case is new brake pads. 29" Mountain bike tires are 700C. (As Always - http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html has the answer), so you now have ...


2

There must be some wear indicating lines on your brake pads. If you don't see them - it's time to replace the pads. Here is an example of wear indicator lines:


2

In England and Wales, under the Sale of Goods Act 1979 goods must be as described, of satisfactory quality and fit for purpose. Regardless of warranty length, a product which is intended to last many years but fails after a few months of use can be deemed faulty or unfit for purpose. Within the first 6 months, it is assumed that the product did not meet the ...


2

You may not be able to see it, but it's pretty likely the races are damaged at this point. One trick I've had luck with over the years is to replace the caged bearings with loose bearings. If that doesn't work, you can try using the next size up bearing. Both these tricks move the bearing contacts to different spots and can help a lot with indexing. See ...


2

Can you afford a new tyre without it being a big deal to you? If you don't replace the tyre there's a decent chance that you will suffer an additional puncture from a thorn you miss. You'll then have to take time to fix the puncture and, possibly but less likely, fatal damage to the tube. It's unlikely you'll lose money by not replacing the tyre, but you ...


2

Remove cables. Remove bar tape. Roll back lever covers to reveal clamp bolts Loosen bolts and slide off bars. Follow instructions included with the new levers (these should in effect be a well written reversal of steps 1-4.)


2

General guide to calliper swap: Remove the cable ends (metal cap over the end of the cable) and loosen the cable clamp bolt (bolt holding the cable tight to the calliper). Unfasten the calliper by loosening the calliper bolt (the one attaching the calliper to the frame). Take the calliper off the bike. Attach the new calliper by the calliper bolt, making ...


1

FWIW, I have put 140mm-100mm adjustable forks on an XC bike designed for 100m forks. Going from 140mm to 160mm will change the geometry of the bike a bit, but a bike that already has a 140mm fork is pretty slack to begin with. Depending on the exact fork and how much you set up the sag, there may be little to no measurable difference between the two forks ...


1

Rapha provides a free repair service for their items that have succumb to crashes: info


1

If you are looking for an exact replacement the part # will be stamped on the inside (wheel side) of the parallelogram linkage. This is the middle section of the derailleur it is the part between the mounting or "B" knuckle and the jockey wheel cage. The numbers will be small and are read more easily with the derailleur off the bike. It should begin with RD ...


1

"Product Information -- Our Cannondale elastomer kit will make your Head Shox work like new." $42. http://www.suspensionforkparts.net/eshop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=156


1

Just look for any chainrings that have the same bolt circle diameter, the same number of bolts, and are designed for the same number of gears that you currently have and you'll be fine. Although you may find that it's cheaper to simply replace the whole crankset than to buy individual chainrings.


1

You'll also need to know the manufacturer, so that the shifters will be compatible. Most likely it's Shimano, or SRAM. It should be written somewhere on the shift levers.


1

Everything there looks like it should work together all right. If you are replacing the drive train components here, you may want to get new cabling for the shifters as well. Any 6/7/8 speed chain should be fine on this setup. The cassettes also seem equivalent. I'd worry about the condition of the old shifters due to the age, they should be compatible ...


1

The cleats and pedals I have look just like yours, except more used. I love them. I've used egg beaters on all my bikes for the last 5 years or so. They shed dirt, they're easy and quiet to clip in and out, and except for one broken spring on an older pair, really reliable. (FYI, some of the older eggbeaters didn't have wrench flats. The ones in your ...



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