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12

Standing up on a bike, especially when you lack fitness, is a good way to go "anaerobic." Put simply, that means your body is working so hard, it can't get enough oxygen. You can only do that for a short amount of time, which for most people is in the range of 10-30 seconds. Then the lactic acid build up in your muscles becomes too painful and you are forced ...


12

Boardman used what is known as the "Superman" position, as shown in this image. This position has been deemed to be against the rules by the UCI. Compare it to the position that Wiggins had on the bike, shown here. His arms are not as outstretched, and therefore it is not as aerodynamic. The superman position was first used in the hour record attempt ...


7

Regarding part 1: I'd start by raising the stack height a bit so that you lean on your wrists with less weight; your position will be more upright and less aerodynamic. Along with this, make sure your saddle is properly adjusted for height. More importantly you should try strengthening your abdominal muscles. With a stronger core you will be able to ...


6

As @Daniel has commented, and I agreed, you probably have a bike fit problem. We cannot be sure; the only way to find out for sure is to get a professional fitting done. Having said that there are still a few things you can try. While you say you try to adjust my hand positions, what positions do you use most? ... The Allez handlebar setup is one I ...


6

Pedaling while standing always takes more effort; we do it when we need the extra boost. When you were younger and rid[ing] a bicycle a lot, you were also fitter. I'm guessing you have had a sedentary job for a while, so now your whole system needs to build up again. This is, unfortunately in our modern world, normal. As with any strength / fitness ...


5

I ride a pro racer XL BMX. They are built for speed. I keep my seat down for 2 reasons. all my pedaling is done standing up -- power is everything for a racer. My saddle is made of one material only -- composite material -- its like sitting on a steel plate. I only use it to coast on and relax -- and that is only after the race. However, If I ...


5

This is most likely because you are putting your weight right on the median nerve (see first picture). Padded gloves may help a bit, but I suspect your hand position is more likely to be the problem. Other common hand nerve problems with riding can compression of the ulnar nerve, which will present itself as a different area of sensation than what you ...


5

As others have said, just because the bike shop says it's a good fit, doesn't make it so. Their incentive is to sell a bike off the floor so they'll find the one that fits best and sell it to you. I got a custom fit and I have longer thighs than most people. This meant that to get the seat position right, I had to have my saddle further back from the pedals ...


3

You probably just have the wrong saddle. The width of the saddle has to match the width of your sit bones. My reading of your question is that only the very far back of the saddle is wide enough to comfortably support your sit bones. The first thing to do is determine the width of your sit bones. This article has some good suggestions. Is it possible ...


3

I know this is an old thread, and you've probably solved the problem by now. But that bike frame is too small for you.


3

Some things you can do to alleviate hand/wrist pain: Raise handlebars and/or shorter stem Padded gloves Double layer of handlebar tape or gel pads under the tape Move hand location frequently between cross bar, hoods, corners and drops (for me at least, when my handlebars are higher I tend to spend more time in the drops) If you want to maintain your ...


2

Nitto makes a tall quill stem called the Technomic that will give you about 160 mm of extension above the minimum insert line. I've seen them in the Rivendell, Harris Cyclery, and Velo Orange catalogs. The Rivendell one is fancy and polished and costs more. There are also extenders that allow you to use a standard quill stem. They aren't pretty but they get ...


2

Tendonitis(tendonosis) is one possibility, however I would expect some pain during riding especially during the beginning of your ride. When you say biceps tendon I assume you mean near your elbow. That said, the first things I would investigate are ulnar nerve irritation or compression at the cubital tunnel a/o the ligament of Struther's. The ulnar nerve ...


2

There are a couple of things you can try before throwing down serious money on a professional fit or a new bike (side note, if you buy a new bike from a shop be sure to negotiate a free fitting session if it doesn't come with one automatically). First, the most obvious thing to do is to get some proper bicycle specific gloves with beefy gel pads on the ...


2

Feet on the pedals, hands on the handle bars, one or two fingers on your brake levers would be a base position. If you're doing something technical, then bum off the seat or at least unweighted, with pedals fore-and-aft. Doesn't matter which pedal leads, but it'll probably be your primary side, right foot for those who are right handed. Peddling when you ...


1

It protects your balls from being smashed and when you ride if bike it feels nice to just sit down and be low to he ground with a low center of gravity. It makes it a lot easier to bust off tricks and just feel comfortable sitting down waiting for your turn in the bowls.


1

When I started riding again, after many years, standing was very hard – like couldn't do it hard. My legs ached as soon as I started and it was really hard to control the bike. Now, a year and change later, I almost enjoy it. I often stand to push up the last part of a hill or to do a short hill without shifting. My advice would be to find opportunities to ...


1

The frame size and shape could be an issue too. Some frames transfer your effort more efficiently than others. And some frames may do the transfer less efficiently when standing than when sitting. Have you tried stand-pedaling on a different bike? Try borrowing one, you may decide that it is time to buy a different frame.


1

If you ride alone you could try clip-on aerobars. With these you basically get rid of all strain on your hands and better aerodynamics


1

It’s not only a matter of handlebar type. You can already try to get into a more aerodynamic position with your straight handlebar. A shorter straight handlebar can be quite aerodynamic. On a road bike the drops are mostly used for descents, normaly one uses the “hoods” or the tops which aren’t all that “aggressive” or overly aerodynamic. See also ...


1

Drop bars are possible, but you need to measure the effective top tube of your frame and the "reach" of a new drop bar you want to purchase. You didn't tell what hybrid bike you have but I assume the effective top tube on your bike is longer than ones on road bikes. Another consideration is that drop bars have additional reach forward (70-80mm). There's ...


1

I'd start off just riding your bike and noticing what you like (and don't like about your position). Mostly I'd worry about the bars being too low and not having enough options (get low to get out of the wind, sit up straight when your back or neck needs a break, and on and on...). The important thing is that you're comfortable – and as long as the bike ...


1

When spending more time on your bike, it's good to be able to vary your position. For that reason alone I would advice a drop bar or butterfly bar. It'll prevent all kind of small complaints about wrists, shoulders and back. Getting in better shape because of the extra daily exercise, you'll gradually feel more comfortable in a more sportive (aerodynamic) ...


1

You may want to actually try adjusting your saddle up instead of back. If your saddle is too low, you may be compensating by rolling back on the seat as you pedal. Adjusting your seat up will push it back a little anyway, but it's something worth trying.



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