Hot answers tagged

39

In road racing there are lots of way to try and gain an advantage (or not to give others an advantage). Because this is a friendly race, I will break it down into friendly, indifferent and hostile tactics. UPDATE: The OP updated their question to make it clear that they were a beginner and the other rider was a more experienced road rider. So I ...


15

Let the co-worker pass and then draft behind them. It becomes a game of chicken to see who goes first. This is partially why road racing at the professional level is usually done in teams. The team works together letting riders take a turn in the front so that the race moves at a reasonable pace. The other option is to just give a good effort on an uphill ...


11

GC leaders are generally not out in the wind by themselves or taking many pulls on the front. They often put time on the field on climbs and in individual events like TT (which use bikes focused on aerodynamics). As such, in pack riding GC leader will likely favour a bike that focuses on climbing (light and stiff) and handling (note, aero road bikes are ...


6

Short answer yes, a hard tail 29 would be a good fit for what you have described. And it sounds like you already have a fun FS bike and a road bike so it only makes sense. The equation N + 1 comes to mind, where N is the number of bikes you currently own. 29ers roll like nobody's business, they don't accelerate like a smaller tire but the roll over is ...


4

Success to complete the event will be determined by Fitness Strategy Execution Given the time constraints you will not be able to add greatly to your fitness base (1). This leaves you with Strategy (2) and execution (3) as factors you can optimize to give you the best chance at success. Strategy looks at things such as pacing during the event, knowing ...


4

You can combine strategies from track racing, namely match sprint, and road racing. In match sprint, the racers typically start very slow in order to not give any drafting advantage. This continues until one of the competitors decides that he/she can sprint to the finish line before the other can pass them and attacks. In road racing, a common strategy is ...


4

For XC and trail use it'll be fine. It's really only downhill bikes that require especially strong stems, I think (and in that case you'd likely be using a shorter stem anyway for handling reasons).


3

The derailleurs are usually matched to the size of the cassette/chainrings. the cage length of the rear derailleur is matched to the largest cog. that is why you see mountain bikes with a 34 tooth in back with long cage derailleurs and road racing bikes with the little derailleurs matched to the corn cob size cassettes. The curvature of the front ...


3

Can't see a single reason why not. I am commuting on road bikes since the times of Noah (ok, a bit later) and only being happy for the decision. Used MTB before and it was not as fun as road bike is on roads. There are some interesting issues, such as rugged bottoms of the trousers of your dress suit if you don't clamp them while commuting, also some funny ...


3

The difference from the top of the saddle to the top of the handlebars at the stem can be down to around 3" or 75mm. Assuming the bike is the right size and everything else has been set up correctly. Wind resistance only really becomes a major factor when you get up to speeds around 30kmph and higher. Or riding into strong winds. So an aerodynamic position ...


3

A weather dependent strategy is available when there is a stiff crosswind. Your wind shadow (i.e. the place where a drafter would want to ride) is "behind" you from the point of view of the wind you experience. You experience wind from straight ahead because you are going fast, and from the side because of the weather. The combined effective wind will come ...


2

The best way to make it impossible for him to draft of you is to draft on him instead. You will then probably just end up taking turns. Competitive bike riding is not only about who is the best, but also who is the smartest and who has the best social skills. Or who - indeed - can act the 'meanest' as you mention this word. However I personally think you ...


2

I made the decision to ride starting this year in Feb (yes, Toronto in February) but it was then or never. I have never looked back. Only things that I wondered before I started (and what took me longer was): The distance of course as someone already mentioned... What you would wear while riding (linked to the next point) Given my work attire, what would ...


2

Google around and fine your local bike co-operative. They'd love for you to donate such a useful thing, plus you get the warm fuzzies for being on topic for this stack.


2

Yes, all Shimano 8-speed shifters and rear derailleurs except Dura-Ace are compatible. Road and off road front derailleurs have different cable pull, but since both 600 and Claris are road component series, they are compatible too.


1

I think @itsthejash has some good tips but I'd also suggest taking the rotor off the hub and making sure there is no dirt or other material on part of the mounting surface of the hub, thus pushing it out in one spot. Maybe use some cleaner to ensure the surface of the hub and rotor are clean on the faces that meet during mounting. Also - when you engage ...


1

I do both - my road bike is a lightweight lean machine with no mudguards so its fast but terrible in the wet, so dry days only. My wet-day bike is a rigid MTB with full mudguards (fenders) and much better rim brakes. The MTB also has a more upfright seating position so its easier to look around, and puts my head a little higher. Road bikes commute fine, ...


1

Take the plunge and try it! Either you'll find that you don't enjoy it or you'll have discovered a wonderful new aspect to cycling. Regardless, you're only out a race fee. Community The cycling community is just like that of any other sport. You have some people who are pros, those who were, some who wish they were, some who think they are and some who ...


1

Its all about inventory and stock levels. Historically frames came in increments of 2 or 3 cm. So one model might be stocked in 48/51/54/57/60 cm or 48/50/52/53/56/58/60 By having more adjust in the seat post, the supplier can stock three frame sizes of small/medium/large and make up the in-between sizes with longer or shorter seat posts, which will fit ...


1

It depends on your bar diameter. Oversize bar is 31.8mm for both road and mountain bars, so the stems are interchangeable. For historical reasons[1], most of "standard" drop bars and stems for those are 26.0mm and other bars are 25.4mm. It is possible to tighten 26.0mm stem to hold 25.4mm bar, but it will put extra tension on both stem and bar. Mountain ...


1

After a very lengthy period of research, I came across what seems to be the only two proper purpose-built luggage racks for road bikes without eyelets which are not light-duty "seatpost racks" (at least on the part of the Web which is in the languages I understand): Streamliner Road DLX from Axiom Cycling Gear Pros Looks very sturdy: It's even made of ...


1

Most things are better on a single speed (except touring) Yes equip yourself with a fixie or in my case technically a single speed for the following reasons. 1 Chain tension is consistent (and your muscles adapt ) less energy is wasted changing gears. 2 Low maintainance costs and longer component life with good quality stainless steel larger componentry. ...


1

There are some racks that mount directly onto the seat tube and utilise a quick release clamp; they only take a small load tho. This would avoid clamping onto the carbon. As others have hinted its not such a hot idea to do this as carbon is not designed for that kind of compression. You can find evidence of this with car racks where carbon frames are not ...



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