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26

It can be considered "impolite" by roadies, but not because of the bike you were riding or the fact you didn't take a pull (although I am sure some will argue for this). The main reason random drop-in riders are generally frowned upon are because of: the dangers associated with unpredictability of a new rider lack of insurance coverage Potential ...


7

Regarding part 1: I'd start by raising the stack height a bit so that you lean on your wrists with less weight; your position will be more upright and less aerodynamic. Along with this, make sure your saddle is properly adjusted for height. More importantly you should try strengthening your abdominal muscles. With a stronger core you will be able to ...


7

For those who subscribe to the rules: "Rule 19: Introduce Yourself If you deem it appropriate to join a group of riders who are not part of an open group ride and who are not your mates, it is customary and courteous to announce your presence. Introduce yourself and ask if you may join the group. If you have been passed by a group, wait for an invitation, ...


7

This sounds like it was a very casual interaction. There's nothing wrong with what you did, but it would have been more polite to say hi and ask if they minded you drafting them for a few minutes. Even in a casual situation like that, be careful not to interfere with their rotation or their pace. IE, if you're not going to take a turn at the front, drop ...


7

Not easily. V-brake levers pull twice as much cable as a calliper brake levers, so you'll not be able to swap them without swapping the levers too, and these are often attached to the shifters, so you'd end up swapping an awful lot of parts. Additionally V-brakes are mounted to a pair of bosses on the seat stays & fork legs whilst calliper brakes are ...


5

You will go further and faster on a road bike for the same effort. You go further and faster on a better (i.e. more expensive) bike. Training is not about going further and faster for the same effort, its about putting in more effort. So, will a road bike make a difference - only if you will put in more effort on the road bike than the MTB. If the idea of ...


5

Goals Without them, you don't know where you're going, and don't know when you got there. So set some goals. For example, a 100 km (60 mi) ride by the end of the year. As Kibbee said, find others to ride with. Ride where you see others ride, stop where they stop, and chat. Or find a local club. Be prepared to move on if the people or club are not meeting ...


5

As @Daniel has commented, and I agreed, you probably have a bike fit problem. We cannot be sure; the only way to find out for sure is to get a professional fitting done. Having said that there are still a few things you can try. While you say you try to adjust my hand positions, what positions do you use most? ... The Allez handlebar setup is one I ...


5

It called a track stand. It originates in track racing on a velodrome, where in the opening stages of the individual sprint event you sometimes need to come to an almost complete halt. Tricky and dangerous to do if not well practiced, it can end in a 'sprawl of shame' if your technique is not perfect.


4

The technique you're probably thinking of is doing a "track stand".


4

If you inflated the tire and the tire itself is indented at times, it is likely that you did not seat the tire correctly. This means the tire bead is not sitting correctly in the rim. The rim should have hooks to catch the tire bead. The tube should expand to many times its original size and will fill the volume made available to it. As such, a tire that ...


4

Have you recently replaced a tire or tube? If so, then the tire may not be properly seated. Remove the wheel, hold it in your lap lying flat, and rotate the wheel around looking at the edge of the rim and tire. You are looking for a "low spot" where the tire appears to "disappear" down into the wheel. It will be slight, but it doesn't take much. My old road ...


3

Some things you can do to alleviate hand/wrist pain: Raise handlebars and/or shorter stem Padded gloves Double layer of handlebar tape or gel pads under the tape Move hand location frequently between cross bar, hoods, corners and drops (for me at least, when my handlebars are higher I tend to spend more time in the drops) If you want to maintain your ...


3

Is the question about non-stop cycling or just riding over several days or weeks? For non-stop cycling it’s less about starvation and more about the maximum power you can get from burning body fat. For the Race Across America the record (without any food restrictions) is 27km/h average over 4860km in 7d 16h. Since stopping and sleeping is allowed (though ...


3

A bicycle in and of itself is a half of the equation. If you want to eek out as much speed as you can you also need to consider how you interact with the machine. This answer focuses on the human/bike interaction rather tweaking bike specs. Bike fit is a continual compromise between power, comfort, and aerodynamics (Bike Fit by Phil Burke). Simply ...


3

I want a bike that will allow to me ride on the road and on the rough trails I guess we can't be sure what you mean by "rough trails", but if you're talking about what I call "rough trails", a CX bike just isn't going to do it. i don't want the relaxed geometry. I want to go fast. Relaxed geometry and high speed often go together off-road (think ...


3

The short answer You say you usually keep them around 90psi. I think it's a key point that you don't say that you checked them and they were definitely at 90 psi (6 atm). Cornering at speed is always dangerous. You need your tires to be hard so that they do not deform, and you need proper technique. Your tires need to be at least 90 psi. Regarding ...


2

The best thing to do is go try out as many bikes as you can & see what you like!! You can probably do 20 miles or so in two hours, depending on how hard you ride. As far as being concerned about the gears adding complication, although there is a learning curve to figure out what gear to use when, a quality bike should shift easily & smoothly with ...


2

Cyclocross or gravel bike. They both do fine on road.


2

After I made the same switch, I found I needed to check the tire pressure much more frequently, otherwise I'd get "pinch flats" all the time. Find the recommended pressure on the side of the tire and inflate to that every day you ride. Because of this, you'll need a pump with a gauge. But I'm happy I switched!


2

You can plug some numbers in http://bikecalculator.com/ or http://kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm (thanks @Michael) and see what they say. Juggle the figures (your weight, bike weight, etc) a bit until what it says matches your results. Now guess the weight of a new bike. Not much speed difference huh? Now assume that the better position, transmission, ...


2

First thing I would suspect is that you somehow installed the tube incorrectly, maybe twisted. Next, you may have installed the tube before the glue dried and failed to dust the patch with talc, causing it to stick to the inside of the tire. Or the tube may have been too small from the start, and the patches are keeping it from stretching enough to fill ...


2

The real difference to look for is the axle width and connection method. A "standard" road bike has a 130mm/10mm rear axle and 100mm/9mm front axle that both use a standard quick release. If a set of wheels matches those dimensions and has disk brake compatible hubs, then any difference between road/cyclocross disk will only be in the various details of ...


2

Cyclocoss will tend to be wider to accommodate the wider tires used in cyclocross. And tend to be sturdier. Are you buying the wheels for a road or cyclocross?


2

Sounds like you already have a decent pace for somebody starting out. Upping the tire pressure is a good idea, but make sure to not go too far beyond what is recommended on the sidewall of the tire. 120 psi might be a bit too high. In order to get quicker and build your endurance you should ride more. You can do things like intervals to try and increase ...


2

Nitto makes a tall quill stem called the Technomic that will give you about 160 mm of extension above the minimum insert line. I've seen them in the Rivendell, Harris Cyclery, and Velo Orange catalogs. The Rivendell one is fancy and polished and costs more. There are also extenders that allow you to use a standard quill stem. They aren't pretty but they get ...


2

I see two questions here... First, will you benefit from a road bike? If you will ride it more than you are riding the mountain bike, then yes. That will depend on where you live (are there good roads or paved trails for a road bike), who you ride with, etc. I do most of my riding on my road bike because I live near an excellent paved trail and there are ...


2

First I would not characterize a $1200 CX as low end. Yes since they are typically sold for race the starting point is around $1200. But overall I would not call that a low end bike. It is going to have solid frame and mid range components. I would take $1200 CX with knobby tires on the trail over $400 mountain. Not going to have a front shock on the ...


1

If you ride alone you could try clip-on aerobars. With these you basically get rid of all strain on your hands and better aerodynamics


1

Ultegra is still hollowtech II. It seems like the Defy 2 in the UK has a pressfit bottom bracket for hollowtech II cranks, while in the US it has an usual threaded hollowtech II bottom bracket. In any case, you need a hollowtech II compatible bottom bracket, which you already have (Tiagra is Hollowtech II only). Just remove the current crankset and put in ...



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