Hot answers tagged road-bike
10
Firstly, 11 or 12 mph isn't that slow, especially if you're still working on improving your fitness. Try measuring speed in kph instead of mph, as it feels better. You can laugh, but we all do it!
The main thing you should look for in a new bike, IMO is that it fits you. This will improve your comfort. If you're comfortable you'll be able to go faster. Drop ...
8
I don't think so - I've ridden over 1/4 mile stretches of freshly poured asphalt with no apparent damage to my tires.
The asphalt is around 300 degrees F when it leaves the plant, but it will have cooled to 200 degrees or less by the time it's open to traffic (water will stand on the surface without boiling, so it's definitely below 212F)
Further, unless ...
6
Buying parts alone is sadly a rather expensive way to get a bike and I doubt anyone would be able to tell you if it's worth it to you. That said, I'd be very tempted.
I like old bikes and it's better they get rebuilt and used than end up in landfill.
You should spec up the components you want/need and compare the price with a new one of similar quality and ...
6
Bicycle size is determined first by frame size, which is top tube length, seat tube length, and some more minor geometries like head tube and seat tube angle. The primary determing factor for comfort on the bike is your reach measurement.
Although it is affected by various factors, like skeletal flexibility and the type of riding you do, ideal reach is ...
4
Cyclocross bikes will have a slightly different geometry. More like a relaxed road geometry with a higher bottom bracket than a road bike typically. You'll be stretched out a bit less and more upright. Cross frames also will have wider tire clearances for 32mm to 35mm tires, but it varies by model as some can fit 38mm to 45mm tires.
Traditionally, brakes ...
4
Bikes which have 27 gears will have triple chainrings at the front. Three rings can be very useful to give you lower gears, typically when you might struggle at climbing, or carry a load such as when touring. For example, I have an Audax bike which has a triple chainset. Its by no means a thoroughbread in terms of performance, but its suitable for a wide ...
3
The problem is burning too much carbs/glycogen and not enough fat, since you body has an essentially unlimited supply of the latter.
How? One step is to eat more fat and less carbs. That trains your body to burn more fat. This article also suggests pushing your limits on how far you can go without eating, as a way to train your body to need less. Another ...
3
What is your main ambition here?
Is it primarily weight loss? If so, then it sounds like you're doing pretty well on your existing bike. (I'm not necessarily saying "don't get a new bike", I'm more saying "don't get one until you're sure of what you want".)
Or building up the stamina to be able to ride all day? Again, your current bike will do.
Or are you ...
3
Essentially this is about Low end carbon vs high end alloy.... Carbon is typically lighter and less harsh (more vibration absorbsion) over alloy, but is not as robust. I doubt the alloy is much heavier, I think it will come down to difference in componet quality and budget.
Personally for a training bike I would probabbly go for the alloy- but that is ...
3
This Cycleops document appears to show the speed-power curve for the Magneto trainer. A few comments: first, the actual power demanded will depend on the pressure between the tire and roller, so you will want to make sure that is consistent between trainer sessions. Second, note that the power increases roughly linearly with speed, so if you double your ...
2
I am 62 and ride a hybrid bike. My back is fine. I have a road bike but since I got the hybrid I don't ride it any more. I put conventional handlebars on the road bike because the drop handlebars made my neck hurt. I've been commuting for about 7 years. When I started I lost 30 lbs. then gained back 10 as I adjusted. I was only moderately overweight however ...
2
As Alex suggests, it's cheaper to just buy a new (or "lightly used") bike than to buy all new parts for an old bike.
As to the practicality (cost aside), the main question is what parts will fit. If the bike is designed for caliper brakes or has odd threading on the BB or some such then it will be frustrating trying to find new parts and your choices will ...
2
Cyclocross bikes typically come with:
Wider/knobby tires.
Wider seat stays (for the wider tires) but this also makes it easier to fit fenders.
Compact Crankset such as 50/34
Flat underside of the top tube - for carrying your bike on your shoulder.
All cables to the rear along the top of top tube (or internal) - again for shouldering
As noted, the brakes ...
2
I have recently assembled a bike from used parts, and the last bit of adjustment was precisely the stem length.
Two criteria were key to decide the right length, and they didn't have anything to do with what I call "The Numerology of Bike Fit". Instead, I prefer functional criteria, that is:
How is the bike HANDLING? I thought I would need a stem of a ...
2
The top tube length, seat position, stem length, head angle, and bar design together determine "reach", which is the primary criterion here. Stem length also has an effect on stability.
Top tube length and seat tube length generally are tied together (in a non-custom frame), so a shorter top tube implies a shorter seat tube (ie, a "smaller" frame).
You ...
1
I believe you are asking two different questions: the first, how to use Coggan's Power Profile; and the second, given power at one duration, how to extrapolate and predict power at other durations.
But first, an historical aside: Coggan's Power Profiles pre-date the publication of his book with Hunter Allen so really should be thought of as Coggan's own. ...
1
Using the "approved" chain is probably better if all else is equal, and it may be worth a slightly increased cost for more peace of mind. If you already have the mountain-specific chain, there's no harm in trying it. And if the mountain-specific chain is far cheaper and you aren't picky about shifting performance, it will probably be adequate (but no ...
1
Cyclocross bikes value a different set of priorities than road bikes. You want your cyclocross bike to have wide grippy tires so that you have good traction in all of that mud. You also want more clearance around your stays so that said mud doesn't build up too much there. You also want to have a wider wheel base and more clearance for easier maneuvering ...
1
I don't think the heat will damage your tires much but there is another problem that I experienced a few times. On hot patches of asphalt (either newly placed, or just on a hot day in full sunlight) your wheels can pick up a bit of sticky asphalt. This asphalt patch in turn picks up small pieces of debris from the road and that is where the trouble starts.
...
1
I have found a site with a user who appears to have gone to considerable effort to plot and upload many stages of many tours, including Tour De France 2013 and Giro D'Italia 2013 and many others.
You can view his list here:
http://www.gpsies.com/trackList.do?username=Daniano
From my sampling, they appear to be pretty accurate, but, they are not official.
1
One great way to increase the reach of your cockpit would be to change your handlebars. With any changes, it is best to do things one at a time and ride on it to get a feel for the new fit. It is cheaper to work with a shop that has components to switch in and out so you can feel the difference before spending loads of cash on new components (this is ...
1
Be aware, if you aren't already, that installing a longer stem will change the steering response - you will need to put in more effort to steer the same amount.
Another way of increasing reach is to change the position of your saddle. If your saddle has rails, then usually you loosen a bolt under the saddle and slide your saddle backwards.
Also, seatposts ...
1
Could be one of a number of things.
Hub
If you grab the wheel and shake it from left to right is there noticeable play? If you hold it by the axle and spin it does it feel gravely or gritty? Does it make any noise when you do that?
Brakes
Are the brakes dragging on the rims? Is the rim buckled enough for the brakes to drag for only part of it? Is it ...
1
You would undoubtedly end up with a "better bike" if you bought something new off the rack. That might be a controversial viewpoint but it shouldn't be. There are a few basic reasons:
Frame technology is better now. Better materials (debatable, some swear by steel) and better designs (less debatable).
Restoring a frame is both time consuming and expensive. ...
1
One thing that I have found is you can usually get a lighter weight bike if you go with top-level aluminum over a low-level carbon. The low-level carbon frames tend to have a lot of fiberglass mixed in to keep the cost down and the components are much cheaper too which will weigh a lot more. I think it's kind of funny that everyone looks down on my aluminum ...
1
If I were you I would satisfy myself as to the quality of the carbon frame of the bike you're considering, and provided it looks decent, to go down the carbon route.
The reason for this is just upgradeability. It is conceivable that as you become better and stronger on your first road bike, sooner or later you may find yourself asking the question "how can ...
1
Here you go, VeloOrange has a part for that: http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/shifting-freewheels-cassettes/parts-maintenance/vo-grand-cru-sealed-bearing-universal-jockey-wheels.html
1
I own a hybrid in which I made some modification. I changed my crank to a fifty tooth and thus I had to change the bottom bracket. This not only made my bike a little faster but the weight was reduced as well. My tires were 32s and I put on 25s. I also reversed my handlebar stem which brought my handlebars lower. On top of that I changed the position of the ...
1
I've suffered the same "spooked by downhills" terror. The best thing I've read is to...
...stay in a near-seated position but don’t actually sit on the saddle. Weigh the balls of your feet for agility.
I've been keeping my weight on the seat and sitting further back on my seat. Yesterday I kept the weight in my pedals - 80 to 90% of my weight I reckon - and ...
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