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6

You will find the differences are significant. When you say a road bike, we understand a bike with drop handlebars. Drop bars give you a very different riding position compared to an MTB. Some people need time to adjust to the new position, and can have problems with weak or tired neck muscles. An alternative would be a hybrid style of bike, with flat ...


4

If you inflated the tire and the tire itself is indented at times, it is likely that you did not seat the tire correctly. This means the tire bead is not sitting correctly in the rim. The rim should have hooks to catch the tire bead. The tube should expand to many times its original size and will fill the volume made available to it. As such, a tire that ...


4

Search some more for secondhand bikes. EUR 300,- should get you a nice enough used bike from a couple of years back. A tip I was given when searching for my first bike was to search the bike or racing bike category on ebay and similar sites for "ultegra" or the name of some other sufficiently high-end rather than the brand. This filters out a lot of bad ...


4

There is not much to be aware of. The geometries range a bit between relaxed “training” geometries and more aggressive “racing” geometries. Get what fits you. Above 1000€ they are all solid quality with the main differences being weight and more or less aerodynamic wheels. If you plan on commuting, a randonneur or cyclocross bike where you can fit fenders, ...


3

Road bikes typically: don't have suspension are stiffer (frame doesn't flex as much) are intended for seated high cadence stroking with even power throughout the stroke (vs mountain bikes that expect and withstand very powerful downstrokes while standing) have higher gearing ratios that allow greater speeds use thinner tires with higher pressure for less ...


2

As long as it is in the range you are good. You can even cheat outside the stated range a bit. Too big and you can fold. Too small and you stretch. If it is spare you are going to carry on the bike then the smaller.


2

The best thing to do is go try out as many bikes as you can & see what you like!! You can probably do 20 miles or so in two hours, depending on how hard you ride. As far as being concerned about the gears adding complication, although there is a learning curve to figure out what gear to use when, a quality bike should shift easily & smoothly with ...


2

Cyclocross or gravel bike. They both do fine on road.


2

After I made the same switch, I found I needed to check the tire pressure much more frequently, otherwise I'd get "pinch flats" all the time. Find the recommended pressure on the side of the tire and inflate to that every day you ride. Because of this, you'll need a pump with a gauge. But I'm happy I switched!


2

You can plug some numbers in http://bikecalculator.com/ or http://kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm (thanks @Michael) and see what they say. Juggle the figures (your weight, bike weight, etc) a bit until what it says matches your results. Now guess the weight of a new bike. Not much speed difference huh? Now assume that the better position, transmission, ...


2

First thing I would suspect is that you somehow installed the tube incorrectly, maybe twisted. Next, you may have installed the tube before the glue dried and failed to dust the patch with talc, causing it to stick to the inside of the tire. Or the tube may have been too small from the start, and the patches are keeping it from stretching enough to fill ...


2

A bicycle in and of itself is a half of the equation. If you want to eek out as much speed as you can you also need to consider how you interact with the machine. This answer focuses on the human/bike interaction rather tweaking bike specs. Bike fit is a continual compromise between power, comfort, and aerodynamics (Bike Fit by Phil Burke). Simply ...


1

I like andy256's suggestion a lot, but I must add some. The way I see it more money will buy you either or both two things that affect your speed (1): Less weight. Less power loss between pedals and road. Andy 256's link will easily let you vary (1) directly to see what it gets you, to vary (2) you need to change the watts figure you input at the top ...


1

I have pretty similar cycling needs as you. I love to race, but still commute over 250km per week in bad weather, so I needed a durable, sporty bike, on a budget. After doing a LOT of research, I bought a Verenti Defense WR2.1 Sora 2015. Hope this answer helps, I have done over 4000km in 4 months on this bike in terrible weather (Ireland) and have also ...


1

Either of those inner tubes are fine for that tyre. I'd recommend the smaller size since it's easier to get in the tyre without folds or twists.


1

Almost all seats and seat posts use a standard width and size rail. Unless you have a very high end setup, it will be compatible. Since the one that you described didn't fit, I agree with the previous posters that the LBS has got it wrong somehow. Note that padding is not the only way to reduce saddle pain: getting a saddle that fits is much more ...


1

I solved the puzzle. It's a Caloi Triathlon. Although Caloi is a brazillian brand, they ordered 200 bikes from Suntour in 1985 for their racing teams. It came originalli with suntour shifting group, sugino cranks and nitto handlebars. It's such a rare ride over here, it's a shame the paint is no longer original and i have no access to a full range of the ...


1

You will need a pre-2000 rear derailleur as the cable pull ratio was changed in MY2001 and the lever / rear derailleur movement artio, if you use a current 9/10s RD will not give you accurate indexing. You can use and front derailleur from Campagnolo describing itself as "9/10s" compatible but you may find that you need to set it up with more care as the ...


1

The answer given above is substantially correct but it is also worth noting that failure of lever 2 - the upshift lever on the ErgoPower - is significantly more frequent if: A non QS FD is used with a QS lever A non Campagnolo crankset is in use, even if the FD and lever "match". As the main Campagnolo factory-appointed Warranty and Service Centre for the ...



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