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6

One thing to look out for is the size of the drop from the bolt securing the brake to the frame, and the brake blocks, to ensure the new brakes will fit in such a way that the blocks line up with the rims. Probably if you have a newish bike, then any new brakes you buy will be of the same dimension as new brakes. But it's worth making sure they'll fit - ...


3

The most common way is to use a "Chain Wear Indicator Gauge" tool. (google for product pages). If you don't have access to (or don't want to buy) one, you can use a ruler: http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html


2

On a cyclocross your CD (drag coefficient is not much different). You are the same basic shape. It is a little taller so you have a bit more more frontal area Are you sure you are the same weight and power? Would any of them be willing to swap bikes and test. I get dropped on rides on my street CX but it is because I am just not as strong. Based on ...


2

Well, 105/Ultegra are pretty high to put on a BSO or BSO priced thing (and the brakes will cost more than the BSO). I'd probably go with 20 dollar Tektros. Generally, they are all short-pull brakes so you should be fine with all of them. Shimano has some New Super SLR cable pull, which you can pair with standard short pull brake levers, but Shimano wants ...


2

My first real road bike was around $1300 - so you are on the right track as far as spending. You do have to pony up to get a decent ride and components. I bought a Bianchi, and the dealer is an hour away. I haven't had any issues, but now that I look back I should have bought a bike where I live, so I have dealer support and can get parts/merchandise ...


1

It may not have anything to do with aerodynamics, but your gear ratio. The website for the Merida Cyclocross 3 does not list the specifications, but the Merida 4 does indicate that, like most cyclocross bikes, it comes with a compact crankset, with the largest chainring at 46 teeth. You should be able to stick with the group, but you will need to be ...


1

I am in the same bandwagon, being dropped at high speed flat cruising, though I was looking for different suspects (pedals, clothes...). For aerodynamics I would expect having broad shoulders or narrow, for instance, to have more effect than what road - CX differences can imply. Even wider handlebars would have more significance than frame geometry ...


1

Probably best to start with something mild and work to more harsh until you find something that works. It's probably also best to test in a non-conspicuous area on the same wall just in case something unexpected happens. You can start with just soap and water, and see how that does.Then try dish soap. If that doesn't work, you could try the magic eraser ...


1

Crank preload is there to ensure that cranks are not over tightened so that they cause premature failure of the bearings. It allows the cranks to be "finger tightened" prior to the pinch bolts been done up to the right torque. It's a way of ensuring the spacing is correct on the crank axle.


1

The last post is correct about two meanings for compact: sloping top tube as one meaning and a compact crank (smaller chainrings) as a second meaning. A third meaning also exists - or used to exist: a bike built around smaller 650C wheels. Cannondale used to market their 650C-wheeled road bikes as compact frames.


1

I practice XC, DH, Touring and Urban Commuting types of cycling, and have been using cleated shoes since 2002. By now I recognize several advantages of foot retention systems, even thoug I haven't used pedal straps. I will share someof the advantages I have found, as I assume they arethe same as well used straps. For XC on rough terrain and DH, they simply ...


1

It helps those who have a disability that causes the foot to come off the pedal or keeping it in the safe natural position. I know its not safe for me to ride my mountain bike without it since my stroke last summer. It is a device created to help those with physical disabilities to be able to ride a bike.



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