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0

I had this problem on an old mountain bike. I changed the derailleur and it doesn't do it now. I noticed the old one was not screwed in very tightly when swapping out so this could have caused it. I had a broken spoke and thought this caused it, re-spoked wheel with all new spokes. I also swapped out the freewheel as I thought maybe the pawls had worn ...


2

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/support/faq/question/what_are_the_differences_between_all_the_materials_you_use_in_your_frames/ This link might be helpful. It describes only two grades of alloy for their current bikes. The higher grade being hydroformed. Hydroforming allows profiling and shaping of the tubes. Its comparative to blow moulding. With respect ...


2

It sounds like they compare very directly with other manufacturers who list the alloy and butting, except that Trek doesn't release that. My guess is that some of those descriptions actually overlap and are just marketing hype that changes every couple of years. Your best bet would probably be to contact Trek directly and and see if they will "translate" ...


4

A lot of causal riders appear to prefer SPD's, which is a great place to start, but I here is the argument for SPD-SL like systems. Which I personally prefer and even on dirty muddy roads. Road bike specific pedals (e.g., SPD-SL) are designed for a single purpose, road cycling, and the pedals do this job well. Road cycling has a lot of repetitive motions ...


4

First, note that if you're new to clip/clipless systems, it takes a while to get used to it. A lot of non-racers prefer mountain bike clipless pedals (e.g. Shimano SPD) since you can clip in on both sides of the pedal and the shoes often allow the cleats to be recessed (so you can walk around). Mountain marketed shoes generally tend to be more comfortable ...


0

Painted lines aren't always the biggest problem in the wet. The part of the road the cars drive over the most will be all shiny and smooth and filled with smeared otu rubber. These areas will have the least grip in the wet. If you can ride on the rough looking bit you will have a little more grip. Obviously it's a no brainer to avoid man hole covers and ...


0

I ride daily on whatever tyres are fitted to my bike. Rather than worrying whether it's a slick or not your should worry how hard the tyre is especially in the wet. A knackered old (age wise not wear wise) tyre that hasn't been used for ages will be rock had and won't work well in the wet. Some tyres are just a lot softer rubber than others when new. ...


1

The optimisation of speed for a given course profile, environmental conditions and rider's physiological capability is a multi-variable optimisation problem. Factors include: the physics of cycling, with the proportion of energy demand from the various resistance forces varying depending upon gradient and wind conditions, as well as a rider's morphology, ...


6

A CX bike is stable, strong, and will take wider tires. It is a great road and commute bicycle. It is built to race in city parks. It has a comfortable riding position. Just put touring tires on it (I like 35mm). I don't mean to advertise a bike but if you look at a high end CX like Moots the even say use as light touring. Rout You are not going to ...


3

Take it to your favorite IBD- they can explain and illustrate much better. They might even show you how to do a destructive freewheel removal! Since bikes age in "dog years", and the correct tool to remove it (thick -boss Shimano) hasn't been made since the '90's), your shop may not have the correct tool unless they have been around for a while. IBD ...


0

It depends on the how steep the hills are and how long they are. In theory, riding on the flat should be faster. But in my experience undulating terrain is the fastest. Let me explain. Using maths you can easily see that what effects your time over a course (hence your average speed) the most is how long you spend at lower speeds. So to set a quicker time ...


1

You're basically going to have to do destructive freewheel removal on that. As for which freewheel to choose, check the threading when you get it off, and buy a 5 speed freewheel (chances are any 5 speed freewheel you have is ISO threaded and will probably work). The only company that I know of that still makes them is Sunrace.


1

I think the trainer Frederic Grappe (FDJ team) had a good answer. He would rather an uphill and downhill into the wind than a flat into the wind because you would waste more effort battling the wind compared to the hill. Otherwise on a circular course flat will be quicker due to frictional losses on the slow climb and increased wind losses on the descent.


1

I know you are going to doubt this but the average of 10 and 30 is 15. Assume a 30 mile ride at 15 mph for a total of 2 hours. Now 15 miles uphill at 10 mph for 1.5 hours and 30 mph downhill for .5 hours for a total of 2 hours. Wind resistance hill versus flat c is constant a is frontal area Wind resistance is proportional to the velocity squared ...


1

Isn't standing out of the saddle for a hill less efficient than riding on the flat (assuming someone less than a seasoned pro)? Sheldon says so. If so the average efficiency is worse on the hilly route and for the same input it would be slower. Of course as the hills become less steep the efficiency tends towards the flat case - there may be some sweet ...


2

This question explains that if you travel on uneven ground, your average speed drops. This is because you spend more time in the slow climbs and less time in the fast descents.


2

The danger of this is your rim may begin to rub the brake pad – especially when you put in hard out-of-the-saddle efforts. In theory, if your caliper has become off-centre then one pad will have come closer to the rim and the other will have come further away. You should simply be able to push and rotate the caliper by hand back into a central position ...


1

It doesn't matter a lot if it's slightly off. But you should be able to center the calipers by hand, even after the mounting bolt is tightened. Just grasp the two brake arms firmly and rotate the entire caliper a bit (with no pressure applied to the brake lever). In my experience this is usually sufficient to get the caliper centered enough. Riding for a ...


2

Note that riding in the wet is generally more risky than riding in the dry since things are indeed slipperier than in the dry. Relatively innocuous things in the dry become hazardous in the wet regardless of your tire type (such as wet leaves). Wet also is accompanied by oil in many cases on the road, especially if rain hasn't washed the oil from the cars ...


-4

Slicks are unsafe period. Urban environments throw up too many variables, manhole covers, white lines (made from small beads of glass for Pete's sake) copper commemoration plaques, drains, silky smooth concrete ramps/flats that a ground worker has forgotten to etch into and of course tarmac itself. The list probably goes on because it doesn't even have to ...


2

There are (generally speaking) four types of modern bike cranks: single, with one front gear; triple, with three front gears; standard double, with two front gears, and lastly, compact, which is a double with smaller diameter chainrings. The difference you are describing is between a standard and compact double. A standard was once 52 (or 53) paired with a ...


0

I second the suggestion to try the bike. My experience is as follows I'd always thought that having a bad and inflexible back that I would prefer to have my road bike handle bars more or less at the same height as my saddle. So two road bikes later, set up in this way and i've not been comfortable. In fact I've found more comfort in road bikes that have ...


0

Found this chart, of various models of bike stack height vs reach; this pretty much tells me what I should go look for, and which manufacturers - if any - have a probable fit. http://cyclingabout.com/list-of-xxl-xxxl-bikes-for-tall-cyclists-62-63-64cm/


2

Look at the angle of the guy's back, that's the key to why they say that. For performance, the back will be in a more horizontal position. You need to be careful, though, how much faith you put into this sticker - if at all possible you should try both sizes and judge for yourself. Also, don't forget that different frames, with different geometries and ...


1

You may consider contracting some custom frame builder, if you shop around you could get custom frame set in range of $2k maybe less, which would leave you $1k for rest of the bike . A quick google search showed some builders even locally in Pittsbourgh, although it is often not necessary that they are located in the same town.


1

Just about to ask a similar question, and figured I'd give you what I know so far. I'm 6'8", more torso than legs. 36" inseam, 37" sleeve in dress shirts. Trek 1.5 is the low-end Trek road bike, aluminum frame, and comes in a 64 or 65cm setup. I have one. It works pretty darn well, out of the box. Both Trek and Specialized make bikes in this size, but ...


2

As all the comments have stated most appear to be brand/ model specific. Since it is an older frame it is possible that it didn't have them. Some older frames snaked the entire cable housing thru the frame. The stop was on the component, (brake, derailleur or frame mounted cable stop). If you search for custom bike frames builders you may find some local ...


0

I had a similar problem on my bike and used shims. But I'm pretty sure they weren't "Specialized" branded ones. I was told they were supposed to come with the brifters but most bike shops don't put them on. Check with the bike shop you got the bike at to see if they have some lying around and perhaps you can get them for free. I agree that it's kind of odd ...



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