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1

I used to cycle 8 miles each way on my way into central London, before I moved. I also used to give blood before moving to a country where they prefer not to accept mad cow blood. So there you go. I found that on a good day I used to be able to cycle into work in about 40-45min. I also found that the days immediately after a donation I would take ...


6

Depends on exercise intensity. In a day or two you can return to your normal/moderate exercise. A complete recovery of oxygen delivery can take as much as 3/4 weeks. This means a professional athlete should be careful because he will loose performance, but us normal human beings can carry our normal daily lives. You can read more complete answerers given ...


12

If you are riding near your aerobic limit you'll definitely discover that you've lost aerobic capacity during the next 12-24 hours. It can take that long to replace the red blood cells you've lost. Since a blood donation is about 10% of your blood capacity, your aerobic capacity will be down by 10% I wrote the rest of this before I saw your comment that ...


2

Yes, it will affect you, but I doubt you'll notice the difference. Some people do feel fait afterwards, but I believe this is related to blood pressure rather than red blood cell count and your body can replace the fluid relatively quickly, so have a cup of tea and a chat before you leave and you should be ok. When I was giving regularly, they asked if you ...


-1

I don't completely agree with some things that have been said here. If you like old bikes, if you want it for the looks, go for it. It is a perfectly good reason, lots of people buy and maintain old bikes because they are classier and prettier. There is nothing wrong with it, your passion is perfectly respectable. I personally think something like this is ...


4

They last pretty much forever provided they haven't been damaged (e.g. punctured or rusted or something), so go ahead and use them. If you really want to check them, you can buy a few new ones and weigh them on a scale (and compare the weights of the old cartridges to the new ones). If they're significantly lighter, they've leaked and throw them out. Else, ...


2

Some old wheels do not have a hook to hold the tire bead, which limits you to around 70 PSI. Straight wall or a slight flare, doesn't matter, 100 PSI is not doable without the hook, afaik. (Wikipedia says the hooks were invented in the 70s) In my experience, the tire will come off within an hour or two, and the tire will pop off with a bang as the tube ...


6

It is not allowed by UCI rules, but comissars usually allow it if it is due to mechanical reasons and used to get back to the peloton, since they have discretional ability to decide. Time penalties or disqualification if used to gain advantage over the peloton. So, rule enforcement may vary depending on many circumstances, and I guess they don't want to lose ...


19

Since you say you're looking to become a triathlete soon it's far too early to be thinking of advanced training aids like power meters. The first few things to do (not necessarily in this order) are join a tri club enter a triathlon or two join a tri training squad observe your (comparative) strengths and weaknesses get a well recommended triathlon book. ...


0

I like to have shorts that cover my knees when mountain biking but I still wear spandex sometimes. Some of those shorts have cushion built in too and since we aren't generally trying to go 100+ miles, there is not a huge need for aerodynamics.


6

From what I've read, adding a power meter betters measuring HR only, for some reasons: Heat, diet and stress can affect your HR. A low HR might be an indicator that you are in good shape. You can have a high HR and your power output be low An increase in power implies better performance, but an increase in HR does not necessarily. So it is good to combine ...


7

They do help with training and racing but they are also very expensive. As you say you are a beginner I imagine increases in fitness/strength (and therefore speed) are going to come fast anyway, even without a power readout to base training around. I would definitely invest in a HRM though and make sure the bike computer you use has cadence as well as ...


1

There are essentially no rides that are 'unimpeded by pedestrian or car traffic' around Brooklyn, because Brooklyn is on a densely-populated island adjacent to another even more densely populated island so there's no nearby countryside, and we still use our rail lines very heavily so there are no rail trails. The 30-miler I've found with the most 'open ...


5

Those guys seem to use basic shorts of one type or another Most (at least those who pedal more than 5 miles per ride and have been riding for more than 1 year) use some form of spandex with padding below the shorts. that catch air Doesn't matter. and might catch on branches. Doesn't happen. The hands and elbows in modern MTBs are very very ...


8

As already said, aerodynamics are less important to MTB's, but otherwise its largely convention and fashion that dictate what people wear. A vast majority of MTB'r are not wearing basic shorts - they are usually wearing shorts made for riding, including padding just like Lycra road shorts, flat seams and materials designed to withstand the rigour of riding. ...


1

You choose a non-trivial project. Lots of good tips have been given, but I must warn you: restoring an old bike is not a to-do list like I have seen here. It's not like maintaining a new one. There are all sorts of difficulties with old, seized components, that will be a pain to unmount, and which will require a careful evaluation before rebuilding. If you ...


1

It depends on your objective. Are you doing it to save money, or because you want to ride this bike? You can do it, but unless you are attached to the bike there may be a better option. My wife and I got back into riding last year, dusted off our late 70's ten speeds (2 by 5, not 10 at the rear), got a tuneup from the local bike shop including new brake ...


13

It's doable although it doesn't make sense from a cost perspective. Only do it if you have an emotional investment in the bike or want a fun project that will teach you a lot about bike mechanics. To give you an idea, I bought a 1975 Peugeot UO18 Mixte (a woman's road bike, perhaps similar to your mom's) that had been stored in a barn and turned it into my ...


3

This is not really an answer, but it's too long for comments. @Daniel has given some good starting points. For a bike of the vintage, Richard's Bicycle Book by Richard Ballantine would be a good bet, and is available second hand. When you say rusty, do you mean the frame, or wheels, handlebars, brakes, pedals, etc? The way to approach such a project ...


3

You've chosen a non-trivial project. If the bike has been unmaintained since the 70s it's got several things wrong with it from the git-go: The tires are rotten The brake blocks have hardened into concrete The grease in the bearings has dried up Further, finding parts for a bike of this age can be a challenge. But if you really want to learn how to ...


3

From this question and the other regarding clothes, I think that you would be better off showing the bike or bikes you are referring to when using the term "road bike". Possibly you are not talking of a road bike like this: Because it would be just a waste of the money invested in weight reduction / aerodynamics to use it in plain clothes and with a ...


-3

No. In my experience it’s uncomfortable and pants tend to get caught in the chain and bottle cages.


1

What’s your seating position? I guess you are sitting pretty upright. I doubt this seat will work with the stretched and deep position on a road bike. Especially when using the drops.


-2

The main reason to not do it is cultural. Road bikes and spandex go together for a reason, and by wearing hiking clothes on a road bike you show everyone your ignorance. It's like wearing hiking clothes to business meeting or suit to hiking trail, there's no absolute reason to not do it but you still don't do it. Of course, the Spiderflex saddle already ...


2

8.5 or 9bar is a usual maximum recommended pressure for road bike tires (23mm width). Depending on your weight and demands on comfort something between 7 and 8.5bar is usually right. Just be aware that road bike tires lose pressure pretty fast so you have to refill them every week or so. They should feel very hard at 8bar. If you can pinch them it’s way too ...


2

I would try riding 11 miles in these pants once, and as long as you haven't experienced any discomfort from riding this distance without spandex shorts that contain a chamois pad, you're unlikely to experience much discomfort as you ride more often. However, bike shorts are crafted from fabric made to resist pilling from the friction created when your rear ...


5

Yes, absolutely. Clothing is mostly an issue of personal preference. Performance fabrics and things like spandex don't make that much difference for short stretches, and their advantages become more pronounced and valuable the longer you ride. 11 miles is somewhat of an intermediate distance; in regular clothes you'd be totally fine, assuming that the ...


2

The one thing I always say to people in your situation is to remember that we have all been there. And the saving grace here is that by the time you get to buy your second bike, you will know exactly what to look for. With that in mind, you might want to think about limiting what you spend on your first bike. But for the moment... For your suspension and ...


1

There is no substitute for riding a few different bikes to feel the difference. To get to do this, you'll need to develop a relationship with a local bike shop (LBS). A good LBS will let you take a bike for a short ride, and some will hire a bike to you for a longer ride. Explain what you want and what your budget is. Be up front that you're checking out ...


2

Tires can make a significant different in terms of comfort, especially on uneven roads. If you're comparing two different bikes, ask what is the largest tire that either one can handle. I used to have a road bike where some 25mm tires rubbed on the front derailleur clamp (a tire labelled "25mm" is not always 25mm wide). With that bike I didn't have a ...


0

My one and only reason: Fixed / Brakeless (wearing flip-flops) Hence the best answer to the OP's question of why PEDAL STRAPS - (not why cages / clips are better/not better....sheesh) To elaborate: My toesies get crunched in the cage and there aint no clips on the bottom of my slaps. *btw, I love the "pull up pedal" answers.


1

Garmin has offered several different algorithms over the years to estimate energy expenditure and some are better than others. However, the only way to get really reliable calorie burn data from a bike computer is with a direct-force power meter, and -- in my experience, at least -- most simple algorithms to estimate calorie burn will overestimate the ...


0

They were an Italian manufacturer, I'm not sure if the branding has been resold since the 70's as there are new bikes now with the same name. They were used professionally and known for their lug ornamentation on some models. There have been a few folks with similar questions here: http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/175841-vintage-viner.html


0

For me the big advantages of the triple (eg 52/39/30) are: The two cogs 52 & 39 on the front for almost all riding - a classic double with ratios not too far apart, 39 ideal for rolling country. I never spin out on downhills unlike compact riders with their 50/34 30 on the front for very steep hills or when I am weary/totally knackered towards the end ...


0

In my opinion it is only a usable value data point to compare against the same previous data point. An unfit person will burn more calories at a given level of exercise (based on heart rate and other factors) than a fit person. An unfit person will have a less efficient heart and circulatory system. A calorie usage point can't be made without calculating the ...


1

I have a Garmin 800 which includes heart rate in addition to speed and elevation. Heart rate tells it what my actual level of effort is, so that should take wind and all those other variables into account. It also knows my age, gender and weight, so with all that data it should be able to estimate calories burned pretty closely, or at least as closely as is ...


2

By order of magnitude if you mean by a factor of 10 then most likely yes. You have wind, rolling, and gradient resistance. It is going to be spot on for gradient resistance so if you have a hilly ride it will be more accurate. Clearly it does not account for wind. I expect it assumes a mid level road bike on decent pavement. At speeds over 10 ...


0

I ride a road bike in Seattle with 700x25 tires and find that you can ride on anything so long as you pay close attention to the road and are willing to put more thought into handling the bike. I find that there's an inverse relationship between the size/width of tire and the level of attention/handling when you ride. A touring bike is a great option because ...


0

I agree with most comments, your style of riding and your tire size make a big difference, and any bike should hold with proper care. However, if you are concerned with the road quality being extremely bad you can always buy a cyclocross bike, which have similar characteristics to a road or endurance bike but tougher frame/components. Also, you can ...


1

It depends what kind of lock you have. If it took a thief a failed attempt I assume it's a good one, so take it to a locksmith or anyone with power tools, preferably with a proof of ownership of the bike. The harder it is to destroy, the more convinced you should be that you should buy the exact same lock again :)


2

Compare the relative position of the flat bar and the saddle on your current bike. (ie. is the flat bar higher/lower than the saddle ? How long is the stem? ) When you demo road bikes, check that the top of the drop bar is at least close to the same height wrt to the saddle as your current flat bars. Drop bars aren't that big a change, but you have to ...


2

I have a 28-mile round-trip commute that I do from 3-5 days per week. The trip is a combination of suburban streets, paved bike path and city streets. I used to do this on a hybrid with a flat bar. Last fall I swapped for a road-bike with drops and haven't looked back. One of the biggest advantages drop-bars give you over flats (aerodynamic ...


0

For B&B touring on a road bike, large seat bag works nicely. The weight is higher on the bike than with rear rack and panniers, but it solves clearance issues. Carradice of Nelson makes some nice ones. Brake power on a road bike is mostly limited by weight distribution. You will lift the rear wheel before locking the front wheel or running out of ...


0

New 105 5800 crankset is compatible with older components, according to numerous posts in this thread. Yes, you can use the same cassette. Even if you use short cage rear derailleur now, it should have enough capacity for 28 teeth sprocket. 11 speed Shimano chains have the same internal width, so these should be compatible with older 10 speed systems. ...


1

I installed that Praxis BB30 converter on my Cannondale and I will never look back. I switched to a Shimano hollowtech II crank because that's the one I had lying around. Not only does it feel more rigid, but the bb30 was hopelessly noisy no matter how often I cleaned it, and the Praxis BB has been silent so far, the bearings seem to seal better. So yes, ...



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