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2

The most common way is to use a "Chain Wear Indicator Gauge" tool. (google for product pages). If you don't have access to (or don't want to buy) one, you can use a ruler: http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html


0

Try GooGone (citrus based) or dish soap. In my experience one of those will get rid of the grease.


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I'd spray the area with a stain remover/detergent something like vanish maybe add a little bicarb of soda for an extra bit of abrasiveness. Then use a sander with a medium/fine grit sandpaper. to get the grease off. With a bit of luck you will not have to take it all the way down through the coats of paint. Then once removed give it a good wipe down If ...


1

Probably best to start with something mild and work to more harsh until you find something that works. It's probably also best to test in a non-conspicuous area on the same wall just in case something unexpected happens. You can start with just soap and water, and see how that does.Then try dish soap. If that doesn't work, you could try the magic eraser ...


-2

I am using Acetone. It dissolves all kinds of paints, varnishes and stuff. For rusty parts and oxidized terminals WD-40 is the answer. Good luck !


1

Crank preload is there to ensure that cranks are not over tightened so that they cause premature failure of the bearings. It allows the cranks to be "finger tightened" prior to the pinch bolts been done up to the right torque. It's a way of ensuring the spacing is correct on the crank axle.


0

Looks a lot like an old Free Spirit road. Note the fork crown, the weld quality around the head tube, the attachment of the rear dropouts and the single-piece bottom bracket.


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First and formost: If you're out of shape, no amount of equipment will remedy that. If that is the case you can safely ignore all of the below and go work on getting into shape. The notion that clipless pedals have no benefit is simply wrong. There is a reason pro riders use clipless pedals to race. Yes, the majority of your pedaling power is achieved in ...


1

As others have said, I think you would adjust to a drop bar with a little practice. Most of the time you will ride with hands on the top bar anyway (make sure the brakes are positioned so you can still reach them from this position). In my experience drop bars come into their own when you are going fast and/or into the wind, you will quickly realise that ...


0

Thanks all for the more elaborate answers, I can't vote up. I see it simpler now. It is the combination of introvertion, wanting to fit in, and the main step to fit in involving a good quantity of money I suppose. So possibly pedals and some clothes would be an intermediate step. My shifters are indexed, though in the frame, not sure the year actually, but ...


1

Forget the peer pressure and do whatever the hell you want. Your reluctance to spend money is wise. It's a wisdom that many people lack. But if you are gonna spend money, then here are my suggestions, in order of importance. Bike shorts. If you ride more than 20 miles at a time, they'll definitely make your ass happier. Gloves. Indexed shifting system ...


1

It may be trial and error but you can get a fit that works. What I did for a starting point is to measure my flat bar bike that I found comfortable. With the bikes sitting on the wheels, I measured the saddle height and the handlebar height. I then measured the length from the saddle to the bar center. With those measurements I set up the drop bar bike as ...


3

I have never had professional fitting - just adjusted until it felt right. I am sure a professional fitting would be nice but I just did not want to spend my money on one. A road bike might not be the best bike for you. In a drop bar consider cyclocoss or light touring. Some companies have a drop bar "commuter". They are going to have bigger tires and ...


2

Peer pressure is often a combination of things feeling different to the "norm". This is really lack of confidence to do your own thing. well-meaning advice and comments that can reinforce the first point. As Alex said in his answer, 99% of people are friendly. So such advice and comments are well-intentioned. being new to a group. Many people have a ...


6

The question, mainly, would be, do you feel there is a definite peer pressure around this things? There is undoubtably fashion in a lot of cycling, but there there is in everything. Peer pressure would depend on the group. or a definite selling interest from shops? Yes, but then, that's why they're there. have you ridden with no uniform on ...


-1

Make everything else lighter if you really like the frame. The first thing I'd replace (if you have the money) are the wheels. If you want more top-end speed, get some aero wheels (Zip 404, Dura-Ace C50, etc) laced to some older hub (Dura-Aces are always nice of course) that would work with your bike. If you want faster acceleration and climbing, get some ...


0

The momentum in tire rotation is so minimal as to be negligible. To see this put your bike on a stand and turn the pedals with your hand - almost effortlessly you quickly get to 20-40 kph equivalent rate of rotation. It is not so easy to accelerate on the road because of your body weight mass, and because once over 20-25 kph air drag on your body and bike ...


0

No, there's simply no way an imitation is same as the original. Many people happily ride on fake branded bikes though, at least they say so.


4

This is a very doable project. However, the cost benefit will vary. You need to be very sure of what parts will be reusable. If you are going to pay your local shop to do the work then as @Eric Smekens has said, sell the old one and look for a bike that fits. If you are planning on doing it yourself it is an excellent way to learn how your bike works and ...


0

Definitely an 80's frame and this was the best character of these bikes. Since that manufacture era, gears and brakes, even seats have evolved and you can buy better tech. These frames were steel and they are great commuters (for streets not so friendly). For me the price is directly related to how much stuff I do not need to replace or upgrade. The wheels ...


0

With shimano 105 it must be from the 90s. Are gears indexed? I paid 140 € for a similar bike, and the 105 works like charm. See what steel the frame is made of too, and look it up con internet to get more refetences. But those are great bikes for the money. Not actually retro, I' d say; most retro races allow bikes up until 1987, a bike from say 1994 is too ...


4

You could: measure the chain stretch sight if the chainrings and cogs are worn out check the wear of the tires remove the seatpost and peak inside the frame for rust pull the brakes and inspect closely the cables for rust check the wheels for trueness measure the weight of the bike with an electronic scale rock the handlebars gently to check for drag in ...


4

That bike is much older than 10 years. Probably somewhere in the '80s The bike pictured below is quite similar to yours, and was built in 1985. [Source: Peugeot 1985 product folder] Note however that these frames are generally of good quality, and if not terribly rusty can be used for many more years (and of course are very cool and retro looking). ...


6

If you know the model and exact year Bicycle Blue Book is a good place to start. This is a link to all the models for Peugeot: http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/BicycleDatabase.aspx?make=718


1

The bike should be perfectly fine for 100 mile ride, specs look similar to other products in this price range. I'd rather bother myself with fit and comfort, these will mean more on long distance ride, ask LBS for a test ride. doesnt have disc brakes, is this a big deal? If you are not going to descend mountains or ride in very wet conditions, then no. ...


0

I faced a similar problem last year. I live near the Alps and frequently (although not as frequently as I'd like) go up climbs like La Barillette (1000m @ 8%). I ended up getting a 34-50 compact crank and an 11-32 cassette. 34-32 makes it possible to climb most hills without standing up, but I must admit that I spend more time in the lowest gear than I ...


1

I've thought of a different way to approach this problem. Use an online bike power calculator to get some idea of the wattage you can sustain. http://bikecalculator.com It would be best to do this for a climb that you can do with your current gears and that you know the stats for. Now put in the stats for the kind of grades you want to climb, and in ...


1

Road brake calipers are built with "reach" dimensions. The reach is the distance from the center mounting bolt to the pads. Usually this is a range of values (e.g., 47mm-57mm) as you can adjust the pad vertically within the caliper. It is important you replace the caliper with another caliper of the same reach. If you do not get the appropriate reach you ...


0

To start with, an aside. 700x32 describes the physical size of the tyre. 700 is 700mm, which is the diameter of the tyre. That size is very common. 32 is 32mm, and describes the width of the tyre. The wider the tyre, the more rubber in contact with the ground while riding (sometimes you want to have lots of contact, sometimes you don't). Note that due to ...


1

If it's a cheap bike then my money is on the brakes rubbing. Any brake should be able to be opened up or released so that it doesn't come near the rim. I'm assuming it's rim brakes and not disc brakes: a disc brake bike is unlikely to be what you'd call a cheap bike. And when you spin the wheel, line your eye up with either one brake shoe, or part of the ...


7

Could be as simple as the wheel rubbing on the brakes - rotate the pedals and listen for a scraping noise as the wheel contacts the pads. If this is the case, check that the wheel is true by observing for any wobble side to side as the wheel rotates. If that looks ok your brakes probably need adjusted away from the rims. Start here for brake adjustment ...


3

Good answer from Kibbee +1 I just have a bit more to add Yes a CX makes an excellent commuter. It is stable and yet is efficient on the road. You just swap out the tires. I have purchased 2 used CX bikes. This is the end of CX season so you find some good used values. High end bikes are the best values as those are the people churning bikes but they ...


3

Cyclocross is a type of bike race, which means that most true cyclocross bikes will be expensive, as they are built to win races. You won't find much for that price range if you buy new. But racers are always looking to go faster and get new gear, so consider getting a used bike. You should be able to find a very good used bike for that price. Also consider ...


0

I had the same issue. I think you can try with ultegra 11spd with 11-32t. After changing mine to that, I can climb hills without too much trouble.


2

What parts are you willing to replace? You can't get smaller than 34 in the front w/o replacing the crankset with some kind of MTB crank. You'll likely need to replace your front derailleur as well, and there are issues with indexed shifting that you'll need to figure out. You can't get larger than at most 32t in the back w/o replacing the rear ...


0

If your frame and bottom bracket allow it, you could install a mountain bike crank with 42/28 chainrings (maybe Shimano XT). Combined with an 11/32 cassette, that would make climbing really easy. For the last 3 years, my only bike has been a 29er MTB with a 2x10 drive train and a top gear of 36-11. That's enough for me even on road rides, even when riding ...


2

At some point it becomes quicker to push a bike up the hill than ride. Don't let ego override common sense. However, in your specific case where its a hilly circuit, a lower gear makes a lot of sense and will help you build fitness and climbing strength (and save your knees). If at some stage the lower gear is no longer needed, you can always go back to you ...


1

If you're replacing the whole crankset and BB, then any 9-speed double crankset should work. The chain width for 9-speed systems is the same for all makes (not the case for 10 or 11 speed). But before you do that, I'd look around and see if you can replace just the left arm. Any crank designed for the Shimano "outboard bearing" BB should work (those are ...


0

You may well get a bargain like @Klaster_1 mentions in your comments. If you did want to buy a new crank set that behaves exactly the same, you could get anything that matches the same specifications: Bolt Circle Diameter, the teeth count (in your case 34/50 if you're replacing that sora one) ensure that its got the right shape hole for the bottom ...


0

Got through 2 Continental Sport and three other tyres in about 4 years, which is about 20,000 km. Three had a hole in the sidewall, one had disintegrating rubber with viable threading, and one actually exploded!


1

Fly Pedals came out with the best version of a clipless pedal adapter. Works with every kind of clipless pedal, and the best part is they have a lifetime warranty. They sell on flypedals.com but shipping is cheaper on Amazon


0

I wrap inward and use a 3 figure eights or outward and use 2. This sets it up so the tape is wrapping towards the rider for the tops. I also use upside down electrical tape below the grifters and near the drops. I don't use the press in plugs if I can find the screw type compression plugs so the tape at the ends is a must. It also makes starting easier. ...



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