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1

Assuming that you're talking about cleats on your shoes, there are three main attachment systems. Left: 2-bolt, Middle: 2 or 3 bolt, Right: 3 bolt. Notice how the one on the left has a chunkier sole. The two-bolt option is used for SPD which are popular with MTB, commuting and touring cyclists. I use 2-bolt SPD shoes on my audax bike because I'm able to ...


1

Yes there are lots of different options with pedals (it's a bit easier with shoes), but they can be summarised quite briefly. Types of pedals: Flat - a standard pedal on many bikes Flat pedal with toe clips. So you can still use any shoe, but the toe clip holds your shoe in place on the pedal. "Clipless" pedals - where both pedal and shoe have a some kind ...


1

I also would recommend finding tubes with valves of the correct length. However, if that fails, I've had success using a presta to schrader adapter. Often with shorter valves, there won't be enough room to attach a pump head, but there will be enough to attach an adapter, which you can then use a pump that works with schrader valves. Most pumps have the ...


0

I run Conti Race28 tubes (but with clinchers) on my deep rims. These tubes have removable cores so I have no problems fitting an extender. Obviously this doesn't solve your current problem, but I'm sure there must be compatible tubs out there that will work for you.


0

To be honest, the simplest thing is going to be getting tubes with the correct valve length for your rims. If your LBS won't do the exchange put it down to a lesson in what length valves you need for your flash 50mm rims.


0

It could be that you've cross threaded the lock ring, although you should notice this within the first few turns. To prevent it coming loose again though you could try some loctite on it.


3

There are multiple types of valve extension: The extenders you have relocate the valve core. The other kind are a plain tube which tapers with a similar profile to a normal valve, and screws onto the valve, over the existing valve core. Once the tyre is inflated you can remove the extension and tighten the valve-lock-nut.


-2

By the term bursting "Inner tube bursting" is not caused by the tire but is caused by over inflating. Please get a good quality rubber tube(rubber doesn't change its color when tube is inflated ) Yeah and also a combination of a good tube and tires significantly reduces the risk of flats(especially on a road bike) -I have got a set of tire liners and an ...


3

I would suggest your frame may be a bit small for you. I'm slightly shorter than you and I have a Scultura 906 in a 54 cm frame (size on the frame sticker says S/M). The longer stem may assist, however it may put you in a more race position which could lead to the neck pain. As for the calf cramps this could be a couple of things; 1) seat height too low, 2) ...


0

The rule for the right pressure for a 700x23 size is 80-100 psi for a person weighing 60-75 KGS and 100 -130 psi for a person weighing above 75. Please check your max tire pressure on the tire and fix up with a tire pressure as mentioned above. P.S: Also make sure the tube is in the right position between the rims.. Else you might end up with a snake bite ...


1

If you dont have much experience with a bike setup and maintenance, then get a old-stock bike from a local shop. The amount of money you will pay extra will be equal to the money spent for putting the online-bought bike together. Also local dealer will be able to find you proper bike size - just because you are X inches tall, doesn't mean you should by ...


3

As I've said in other answers, the right tire pressure function of you and your bike and your terrain. You'll have to play with the tire pressure to balance the ride quality.Just because the tire says pressure x on the sidewall doesn't mean it makes any sense running the tire at that pressure since it might just give a bouncy ride which compromises your ...


0

Look at the range on the tire. There are different rules of thumb but if you weight 115 you would be at or close to the smaller number.


1

Yes, better tires can help prevent punctures. It has already been mentioned that there are tires specifically made to enhance puncture resistance. One thing that has not been mentioned is that better tires also have stronger sidewalls to offer more tire support when going over bumps and thus better protect against pinch flats. (Once, I had a cheap tire with ...


2

Both bicycles have similar components (the Gravity slightly nicer drivetrain, but with a cheapo looking seatpost, etc) and are manufactured in similar facilities in China or Taiwan. The Trek will be set up and fitted by your local bike shop, which will be very helpful if your local bike shop is competent (some aren't). The Gravity will be set up & ...


2

Yes, absolutely. Spend an extra 20 dollars on good tires and you could save yourself 30 dollars worth of tubes. Plan on spending somewhere around 40 to 50 dollars a tire. Even if tubes were free, the money is worth saving the hours spent on the side of the road dealing with flats. Look for tires in the 'training' or 'commuting' category, for extra puncture ...


0

If the tube leaks out from under the wire bead it will burst. If you had a cheap tire with a stretched bead that can happen. If it is real easy to slide the tire on the rim that is a bad sign. If that was how the burst happened then a new tire would help. This can happen on even a good new tires if you over inflate too far. If it bursts again the you ...


2

Its extremely unlikely for an inner tube to just burst. It sounds like you are suffering from punctures. There are two types of puncture; the first is an object penetrating the tire and inner tube, and the second is a 'pinch' puncture where an impact causes the inner tube to be pinched between the tire and rim. Many bikes (even expensive ones) come with ...


0

People tend not to use the front brake exclusively or mostly because they fear the bike will flip over. As I was taught by a Police motorcyclist - if the front wheel locks you will still go straight, if the back wheel locks you will hit the floor. Certainly in my experience of non-competitive cycling events (sportives, multi-day Charity rides) I've seen a ...


0

I assume that: you run stock Trek 3500 so you have 2 inch tyres you are not 200lbs (judging by your photo, location and fever for fitness in your profile) Start with 40 PSI on the rear and 35 PSI on the front and ride at that pressure for a couple of rides to understand how it feels. Then adjust +-3 PSI to see how the handling changes. If you ever get a ...


2

You could try adding sealant to your tubular tire. Tufo Tire Sealant, Stans's No-tubes (and other tubeless sealants) can be used to deal with small punctures. Most recommend not using the sealant as a preventative measure, but more so as an after the fact solution to quickly fix punctures on the road. However, Tufo Standard tire sealant says that it can ...


-4

Use puncture resistant tire liner like that one: http://www.flowbikestore.com/band-zefal-puncture-zliner-blue-26


0

I'd say that making sure the wheels are pre-stressed should be a standard part of a bike shop's prep of a bike. If you know that your customers are going to come back with wheel that are out of true, why not get it right before the bike goes out the door?


0

Many strong opinions about braking front or rear I see! Well, I almost always use my rear brake to start off. I was taught, way back when, that to use the front brake first, particularly if I had to slam them on, would send me over my handlebars. Whether that's true or not, after many years and thousands of miles, I'm still doing it that way. So, I start ...


1

It will likely work fine and you wouldn't need additional hardware so long as your skewer has enough extra space to accommodate the extra width of those mount plates and still secure snugly. As far as what you need to be aware of, I'd be conscious of how often you remove your rear wheel. If you do so with any frequency, this could be a nightmare. I have a ...


0

Sheldon's article is quite detailed, but I'd like to chip in one circumstance where the use of the front brake is not such a good idea. I found myself in a situation where I had to cycle with a headset that was less than perfectly tight. This took some time to fix due to a seized locknut on a threaded headset. If there is play in the headset bearings, use of ...


0

Typically lower-level wheels are machine built and oftentimes not pre stressed. When you ride the bike, the nipples and spokes will seat themselves into the rim or the hub, changing their length and tension slightly. After a couple rides they will need to be trued. Once or twice is fairly common.


0

I'd say it can be normal because there are many factors can stress a wheel and depends on the quality of the wheels, they might need to be trued again. There's an article about how they build wheels at Bontrager: Inside Bontrager Wheel Factory. tldr; Expensive wheels are trued, stressed, trued, and stressed again, trued again. Your wheels were trued in the ...


1

Main diference is tooth count, and that imposes differences in deraileur dimensions. As other answer mentions, gear range is wider in a MTB, so the rear deraileur has to be able to take-up more chain slack. A longer cage solves this. As long as they are designed with the same cable pull ratio, they are compatible, you can esaily fit an MTB deraileur to a ...


4

Is this for a group of riders or just one rider? I'll share the experience I had from a big group cross-roads biking event I was part of as a Cyclist, so you can take ideas and maybe create a better plan for yourself. We were going to cycle across country from north coast to south coast. So first we departed from the country's capital city towards the ride ...


2

Except in a few cases, like on highways where you shouldn't be riding anyway, most places don't have minimum speed limits. So I don't see why it would be illegal for a car to travel at the same speed as the cyclist, as long as they are a safe distance behind. The other option is for them to drive ahead and wait for you to catch up. You should agree on a ...


1

The main differences to the drive train is the length of the rear derailleur arm. MTBs have lower and wider spaced gearing which means the rear derailleur has to handle a bigger span in chain length. A MTB typically has a large chainring with 42 teeth and a small one with 22 and a rear cassette with 12 - 28 tooth span - so the chain has to fit both a 42+28 ...



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