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17

Before you take any more forceful measures, it may be a good idea to think a little about chemistry: 'Rust' is typically the name put on any type of corrosion, but technically & specifically, it is the corrosion of iron (or steel) to form iron-oxides. Although your bicycle is most definitely steel, your seatpost is not -- it's aluminum-alloy, which ...


16

The best method for handling exterior frame rust depends on how much time you'd like to invest. The difference comes down to what you use to complete the two basic steps: Remove the rust Good: Sandpaper - Cheap, but wont remove all the rust, and may leave debris. Better: Steel Wool - Will remove most of the rust, but may leave steel wool fragments, which ...


10

Stainless steel is rust-resistant not rust-proof, especially if the bike sees the outdoors a lot, it isn't uncommon for screws to get a fine sprinkling of brown spots. The good thing about screws is that they can be easily replaced. If you were very enterprising you can probably replace all your screws with titanium ones, they are slightly stronger than ...


9

This is a tough one. It's not impossible but you really need mechanical advantage. If you can clamp the seatpost, you will get the best chance at freeing this. You will probably damage/lose the seatpost with this method. Make sure the seatpost is free of grease and oil on the outside. Turn the frame upside down and clamp the seatpost into a bench ...


9

The effects of rust are typically overstated. Where is you concern? Remove rust (or replace the parts) on moving components such as chains and cables, they will run smoother, more efficiently and quieter. On non-moving surfaces such as frame and handle bars etc, forget about it. Under normal use high quality steel gets nothing more than cosmetic rusting, ...


8

This is obviously (from the images) a suspension fork, and a very low-end one. Suspension forks are heavier than their rigid counterparts, but the trade-off is that they absorb shocks. These rust spots MUST MEAN the fork has long ago COMPLETELY LOST its ability to work properly as a suspension. As a result, you are carrying useless extra-weight, are not ...


8

Greasing your seatpost will prevent problems like this: "Removing Seat Post rusted into downtube". Don't use chain oil, grease is what you want. As whatsisname pointed out, all fasteners on your bike should be lightly greased. This is what keeps them from corroding and seizing over time, becoming a real pain to remove. If you have trouble with a ...


8

If you're getting knee-deep floods it's destroying the bearings along with the chain. You need to hang the bike up somehow.


7

You should absolutely grease your seatpost (unless it is carbon fiber). It won't slip around if your seatpost clamp is properly tightened. Get a thing of grease from the bike shop, like the park tool grease. Better yet, get the big tub. Then, generously apply it all over inside your seattube. When you think you have enough, add some more. Then put the ...


7

Throw that thing out and get a rigid fork. You don't need suspension unless you're riding off-road, or jumping over cars, or whatever it is the kids do these days. And bad suspension is worse than no suspension. Rigid forks are pretty durable, so you may be able to find up a used one. Make sure that the crown-to-axle distance is similar to what you have ...


6

After cleaning I give the bolts a small squirt of WD40 followed by a good rub down. This leaves a very fine film of oil that won't hold dirt but is just enough to stave off the rust if done regularly. The spray also displaces (WD, water displacement, geddit?) any water left from cleaning in any little gaps.


6

Where possible, replace with stainless fasteners. Things like water bottle bracket bolts are readily available in stainless at a good hardware store. But most fasteners on a good quality bike are stainless to begin with, so it may be that you're not seeing "rust" per se but rather a sort of corrosion that can form on stainless.


6

When I was doing bike rehab for Christmas Anonymous I saw many bikes like this. It can be good or it can be bad, depending on how much weather it's seen. First thing is to do the obvious -- wash it (we used a power washer), clean & oil the chain, clean and oil the derailers. If it's been in the weather enough then the cables will rusted solid and will ...


5

Chromoly can rust. Aluminum usually doesn't unless you're riding in the ocean. Cheapest fix is probably some automotive touch-up paint; sand / clean the area (scuff the surrounding paint up a little), apply a coat, wet sand, repeat. Won't be perfect but it'll protect the underlying metal from rusting. Of course, if you want that perfect "unblemished" look ...


5

It is possible for water or sweat to enter the frame, and for corrosion to build up. Any rust would be most likely to happen on the steel bolt (which is missing) rather than on the aluminum frame, but oxidization comes in many forms. While this is unlikely to cause you any significant issues, it's an easy fix. Any M4 threaded allen bolt, between 1.5 and ...


5

Untested and at-your-own-risk, but this is what I would try: Soak the rusted join with WD-40 from above and below (ie. flip the frame and spray down the seat tube). Let it sit for a few hours or overnight. Secure the frame against something solid, like a heavy workbench (not a repair stand!). Put an old saddle you don't care much about on the seat post. ...


5

You should check out the 15 Way To Unstick a Seatpost by Sheldon "Unggggghhh!" Brown http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html


5

Heavy, water-proof grease is a good idea. Slipperiness isn't the reason for the grease. The goal here is to keep out moisture and oxygen, thereby discouraging oxidation. Aluminum oxide is especially problematic, as its molecules are substantially larger than the aluminum molecules in your seat post. Oxidation will cause it to jam very tightly. In general, ...


5

You can probably use a small wire brush to get the rust out of the frame and for the future use JP Weigle Frame Saver spray. It acts as a rust inhibitor so should slow down/stop any rust forming on the inside of the frame. You can get frame saver at JensenUSA (I'm sure there are lots of other spots too). ...


5

There's not much you can do against the evil trifecta of salt, water, and sand. You can use a teflon, graphite, or moly based dry lube but inevitably sand particles are going to gouge the metal and salt+water is going to start corrosion. The problem with chain wear due to sand is that the chains themselves can look good (i.e., not rusty on the outside), ...


4

This is fairly normal. Many of the screws are are stainless but where you use the hex key on them they still rust. My best guess is that this is because you scuff the metal when you remove and put them back in. I'll also mention that this happens on whitewater kayaks. Again typically in the places where a screw driver has touched the screw/bolt. To my ...


4

No, it wouldn't work as long as the frame is not hermetically sealed to keep water from entering (I don't know why manufacturers don't do that). The silica gel can only absorb a tiny quantity of water, a drop or so per packet, then it becomes ineffective. It is only effective to absorb water vapor. You can bake it in the oven to regenerate it. If you want ...


4

You can get it from Niagra Cycle Works via Amazon.com. Not quite the great TO area but not too far either. http://www.amazon.com/T-9-Rust-Protectant-Ounce-Spray/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1298302015&sr=8-1


4

Even though it's a "beater bike", I'm guessing you really want to keep it around for a while. If that's the case, I believe the best protection for it would be to paint it. Strip the frame down (take all the components off) and thoroughly wash it. If you want to do the job yourself, sand the frame down to remove any rust spots. If you have too much ...


4

While I agree with cherouvim that wet lube is a good thing for rust prevention, I would also ask if it's possible to store the bike higher up, perhaps with some kind of simple cover to prevent the rain and salt-spray from getting to it. Perhaps a couple of hooks on the wall and some rope or a simple bench or couple of large stones to stand the bike on. ...


3

Agree with wdypdx22 that your frame is likely ok. (otherwise you might be in for a lot more work) I'd suggest taking a crack at cleaning up the drivetrain (that's the chain, the chainrings and cogs, aka gear disc things) yourself before taking it into the shop. It's a simple job and doesn't require expensive tools. Basically you'll want to scrub the ...


3

Your bike has aluminium frame, it can not suffer from rust. There is such thing as aluminium corrosion, but it is a very slow process, you bike will be fine for years. But, of course, you better cover the holes. Cheap solution is a piece of tape, but you can either buy a bottle cage or any screws that fit there.


3

+1 using Frame Saver. I live in a rainy area and use it on all my steel bikes. If you want to completely clean the rust off before application, use a copper wire cone brush (w/ long drill attachment) big enough to fit snugly in the seat tube. Use the low-speed drill setting and gradually run it up and down the inside of the tube. You can also use a ...


3

Is your frame aluminum? It is worth noting that, due to the differing electrical properties of different materials, oxidation (rust on steel) will occur much more quickly when dissimilar metals are joined. On an aluminum bike with steel hardware, electron transfer between the aluminum and the steel will encourage more-rapid-than-normal deterioration of the ...



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