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7

Chain will rust always after washing (or even light rain or a puddle of water), if not re-lubed. I think this is detrimental to the chain, as it removes material from the rollers and thus contributes to chain stretch. Bolts for stem, handlebars etc. seem to always like to rust after rain or washing. I don't think it is a big deal, but it ruins the look of ...


6

Don't pressure hose your bike at all and steer clear of the air compressor. You don't want to force water, air or grit into seals and bearings. I always lightly hose off excess dirt or brush it off, then sponge down with a soapy hot water, then rinse, leave or drip -dry or use a cloth to wipe off excess liquid. Clean the chain, rings, cassette, rims with ...


5

There's not much you can do against the evil trifecta of salt, water, and sand. You can use a teflon, graphite, or moly based dry lube but inevitably sand particles are going to gouge the metal and salt+water is going to start corrosion. The problem with chain wear due to sand is that the chains themselves can look good (i.e., not rusty on the outside), ...


5

I read Chris Cleeland's answer and was appalled that his was the accepted answer. Let me first state that I used to be a bike mechanic, and I ride through inclement weather year round. As another already stated, WD40 is useful for cleaning, but you should never use it on your drive-train (chain, freewheel, front cogs). You wrote that you are concerned ...


4

You may be overwashing it. Rust needs water to oxidize steel and you're providing it in copious amounts. That combined with either the sulphur in the air or salt (if you're near an ocean) is a deadly mix. You may want to give your exposed bolts a nice coating of something that will prevent rust. WD-40 is fine for that purpose but washes off easily. Some ...


3

Your bike is a JC Higgins sold at Sears stores. Not exactly sure of the year but I think most Komet hubs were used in the late 50's into the 60's. Just Google JC Higgins bicycle and I'm sure you'll find a picture of one just like yours. Good luck and don't give up on it. When she sees it looking like it did when she was a kid, it will bring back many ...


2

Rust on the surfaces of the pads & disc could cause extra wear & noise, or if bad enough reduce the effectiveness of the brakes. If there is enough present that you can see residue on your finger after rubbing the surface, I would suggest cleaning with a stiff bristled brush or a kitchen scrubber & isopropyl alcohol (some people have recommended ...


2

The preferred way to do this is to use something like JP Weigle Framesaver. This is an aerosol so you're more likely to get the product in more places which should be protected. And it will dry much quicker (though it has been known to make seat posts somewhat prone to slipping). However, companies like Surly still state boiled linseed oil and motor ...


2

I can answer this question myself, having removed the screws, measured them, ordered replacements, got the wrong size, and so on. So other people can learn the easy way! The screws (or bolts?) are M4x6 button-head. The threaded portion is actually slightly longer than the nominal 6mm on my set, closer to 7mm. But if you buy M4x8 screws you will find that ...


2

You could try the "soak chain in paraffin wax" method. That would at least keep the water out of the rollers. Good how to page: http://www.instructables.com/id/Lubricating-a-Bicycle-Chain-using-Paraffin/ It's cheap and is likely as good as anything else. Salt water will pretty much destroy every part of a bicycle, washing with fresh water every day ...


2

I think the rust on the pad surfaces will go away on its own when you use the brakes. It's probably just a thin layer on the surface. I don't think it hurts the brake disks, since rusted metal is softer than the original metal before rusting. The rust on the backing material probably doesn't matter much either, since you were still able to remove the pads ...


1

If you clean the pads with some brake cleaner and a brush and they just look rusty, it's not necessarily a problem provided your brakes are grippy and effective. If clean them and replace any bent discs and your problems go away, you're probably safe as long as you keep a close eye on things. In other words, if your brakes are grippy, quiet, and smooth, a ...


1

Rust or other build-up on your pads is not an issue if you have enough surface left. Depending on the bran 1-2mm on either side is plenty. If your brakes aren't biting properly clean the pads and rotors with rubbing alcohol. Use an old toothbrush for the pads and a clean rag for the rotors.


1

Consider using something like isopropyl alcohol to wipe down things that need to be clean but not moist/damp. You can use that on brake components with no residue and with no harm to surrounding paint. There are certainly volatile organic compounds that would also leave no residue (such as automotive brake cleaner) but those are typically not really good ...


1

Muc-Off or any other bike specific cleaning product is a good bet. Followed by a brush and hose down. It's not necessary to go all out with a pressure hose. I also use a chain degreaser spray and use this sparingly on the cassette with a brush. It bring the chain up like new. However, immediately after cleaning the drive-train - I re-oil the chain and wipe ...


1

I found this video, and decided to do like him. He puts some kind of extension on his power drill, and on the end he puts a tiny 1 inch steel wire wheel. He drives the wheel up and down in the seat tube for some time until the rust is gone. I tried hard but never found a wirewheel this small in my country, at least not one that would fit on an extension. ...


1

I had the same problem. I used vise grips and clamped down very tightly. I hit the vice grips with a hammer, repeatedly. This will jar it loose- it took me about 15 minutes. The bad news: when I did this with my bike, it left deep scratches on the post (the vice grips will come loose and need to be clamped down again).



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