Hot answers tagged schrader
As you mentioned, one of the primary differences between a Presta and Schrader valves are the diameters--with Schrader valves being slightly larger--and therefore the valve holes on bicycle rims are drilled to suit one size or another. Your foremost concern with using a Presta valve in a rim drilled for a Shrader valve shouldn't be 'movement' of the valve ...
smaller hole in the rim is good (presta +) schrader has piece that inserts into the valve (screws in) with a spring mechanism to seal it - these parts sometimes fail (schrader -) presta uses tire pressure to seal it (presta +) rocks can lodge in uncapped schrader and cause leaks (schrader -) presta does not need a valve cap to keep rocks out (presta +) ...
Drilling out your rims will reduce the strength of the rim and increase the likelihood of cutting the valve stem on your tube. For a few dollars you can buy two of these: This adapter threads onto a Presta valve and effectively turns it into a Schrader valve. Presta valve tubes are the same price and are as widely available as Schrader valve tubes, so you ...
Presta's main benefit is more about how the valve functions, in regards to getting pumped up to higher pressures. Because the stem of the valve needs pressure in the pump head to get high enough before it pushes the valve stem in, and start flowing air into the tire, when you try to get to 120 to 160 lbs of pressure it works better than a Schrader valve ...
In case you really want to drill, the only thing you need is a 10mm drill bit, and a sandpaper to give a smooth finish. It is true that the rim gets weaker, and very narrow rims should not be drilled, but I have performed this enlargement a couple of times and rode the wheels some honest hundreds of km in every kind of terrain, with no problem. I did this ...
Yes you can. Many presta tubes come with a grommet to allow you to use presta valve tubes in a wheel drilled for schraeder valves.
From these three, which one you have? Case ①: Schrader valve Check if the inner part (valve) is properly installed (tight enough). If is and still loose air — you need to change the valve or the inner tube, the problem is with one of them. Case ②: Presta valve You need to unlock the valve before pumping, or you will pump air only into you pumps' ...
Your valve has slipped partially inside the hole in the rim where it exits. Normally it's on average about 1-1/2" outside the hole. You'll need to inspect the valve body to see if it's cut. You can't put a pump on it because the main body of the valve is stuck. First fix the valve body position, then inspect... Here's how to fix: Deflate the tire about ...
My conclusion after many years of using not two, but three types of valves is that the best is the one that results most practical for you, acording to type of riding, type of pumping methods available and of course the type of bike/tire/rims you are using. Neither valve type is absolutely better than other, but one of them may result better for your ...
I would bet this is caused by a tire with rubber that got "old". This tends to happen to MTB tires that are repeatedly ridden on mud, and I had some tires with this behaviour before. The problem seems to be insuficcient friction between the rubber and the rim around the bead, specially on those tires with a material resembling fabric on that region (like it ...
I do this all the time, basically use the presta nut on the inner side to avoid the tube getting "pinched" in the extra space, then if you can find another presta nut, screw that one to the outside where it's supposed to be. Works like a charm.
Assuming the issue is getting the pump head to lock on the valve. Your tube has shifted and now the valve looks really short. You'll have to deflate the tube completely and move the tire around to wiggle it valve to a straight position. The pump should lock on to the valve without a problem once it sticks out far enough.
I have a Topeak "Road Morph" mini pump on my bike, and the pressure gauge on that is at best a distraction. The display is a bit of plastic sliding in a tube, so there's a lot of friction and that makes the pressure reading unreliable. It can stick anywhere, but usually it reads low, like yours does. That makes it useless for anything other than "is there ...
The tire slipping on the rim is generally a sign of an underinflated tire. What sort of pressure are you running in the tires? Otherwise, it could be that that old rim is coated with some substance that makes the tire slip. Or it could be that the tire itself is old and hardened to where rubber does not grip the rim well.
Yes, very nearly all, if not all shock pumps certainly do use a schrader valve.
I have not tried it, but consider, once the tube is inflated, the pressure will hold the valve stem pretty much in place. The concern would be if the edge is rough enough that it would cut into the tube that protrudes. Consider cutting an old tire and wrap the base of the stem with some old tube material and you would probably be fine.
With MTB tires, there's really no issue in drilling out the valve hole to a larger size since the rims are so wide to begin with. You can do it yourself with a drill bit (3/8" or 10mm) or have your LBS do it. Sanding or reaming the hole afterwards is important, as well as making sure there aren't any sharp metal bits floating around afterwards that might ...
As others have mentioned, there's ways to do it. I'd just recommend not doing it. I have more pressure loss problems with my Presta bikes than I do the Schrader equipped ones. Strikes me as a downgrade rather than an upgrade. The only advantage I find to the Presta is the size, which will let you run narrower wheels/tires.
The best one is the one that fits your rim, as all rims are drilled a specific diameter for either Presta or Schrader. Presta adds a very small amount of ease-of-use when it comes to letting out pressure with it's 'quick-release' valve, but the difference is trivial.
Tubes may be cheap, but good luck filling a presta valve when you are on the road in the USA. NO gas station has presta chucks. And if you are living in the USA, it's a 3/8 inch drill bit to convert to schrader valve. I have yet to see anyone have a wheel collapse due to converting to schrader valves. The bike shops warn against it because they gotta sell ...
A Schrader valve can be pumped up with a car pump, often it is easer to find someone with a car pump than a bike pump when needed. (You can also use a bike pump when needed) Also a cheap car foot pump is a lot better than most bike pumps.
It depends on the width of the rim, and how it's constructed. If the rim is over about 32mm (about 1.25", measured from inside to inside) then it probably has sufficient "meat" in the rim that drilling will not significantly weaken it. But of course it would be silly to do this simply because you have a Scharader tube -- tubes are cheap.
Ripping off the valve is a pretty rare occurence I think. If you manage to pull the valve off or even just spring a leak while removing the chuck then the inside of the rim (where the root of valve connects to the innertube and hits the inside of the rim) could be too sharp or the protective rim tape could be damaged or mis-aligned. This is the first thing ...
It should work fine if the Presta tube is meant to inflate as large as a MTB tire is supposed to be. I'd tape the valve to increase it's size.
As you discovered (see comments), your chuck was defective/broken. (Please consider closing this question.)
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