Hot answers tagged schrader
As you mentioned, one of the primary differences between a Presta and Schrader valves are the diameters--with Schrader valves being slightly larger--and therefore the valve holes on bicycle rims are drilled to suit one size or another. Your foremost concern with using a Presta valve in a rim drilled for a Shrader valve shouldn't be 'movement' of the valve ...
smaller hole in the rim is good (presta +) schrader has piece that inserts into the valve (screws in) with a spring mechanism to seal it - these parts sometimes fail (schrader -) presta uses tire pressure to seal it (presta +) rocks can lodge in uncapped schrader and cause leaks (schrader -) presta does not need a valve cap to keep rocks out (presta +) ...
Drilling out your rims will reduce the strength of the rim and increase the likelihood of cutting the valve stem on your tube. For a few dollars you can buy two of these: This adapter threads onto a Presta valve and effectively turns it into a Schrader valve. Presta valve tubes are the same price and are as widely available as Schrader valve tubes, so you ...
Presta's main benefit is more about how the valve functions, in regards to getting pumped up to higher pressures. Because the stem of the valve needs pressure in the pump head to get high enough before it pushes the valve stem in, and start flowing air into the tire, when you try to get to 120 to 160 lbs of pressure it works better than a Schrader valve ...
From these three, which one you have? Case ①: Schrader valve Check if the inner part (valve) is properly installed (tight enough). If is and still loose air — you need to change the valve or the inner tube, the problem is with one of them. Case ②: Presta valve You need to unlock the valve before pumping, or you will pump air only into you pumps' ...
I would bet this is caused by a tire with rubber that got "old". This tends to happen to MTB tires that are repeatedly ridden on mud, and I had some tires with this behaviour before. The problem seems to be insuficcient friction between the rubber and the rim around the bead, specially on those tires with a material resembling fabric on that region (like it ...
The tire slipping on the rim is generally a sign of an underinflated tire. What sort of pressure are you running in the tires? Otherwise, it could be that that old rim is coated with some substance that makes the tire slip. Or it could be that the tire itself is old and hardened to where rubber does not grip the rim well.
In case you really want to drill, the only thing you need is a 10mm drill bit, and a sandpaper to give a smooth finish. It is true that the rim gets weaker, and very narrow rims should not be drilled, but I have performed this enlargement a couple of times and rode the wheels some honest hundreds of km in every kind of terrain, with no problem. I did this ...
As others have mentioned, there's ways to do it. I'd just recommend not doing it. I have more pressure loss problems with my Presta bikes than I do the Schrader equipped ones. Strikes me as a downgrade rather than an upgrade. The only advantage I find to the Presta is the size, which will let you run narrower wheels/tires.
I have not tried it, but consider, once the tube is inflated, the pressure will hold the valve stem pretty much in place. The concern would be if the edge is rough enough that it would cut into the tube that protrudes. Consider cutting an old tire and wrap the base of the stem with some old tube material and you would probably be fine.
It depends on the width of the rim, and how it's constructed. If the rim is over about 32mm (about 1.25", measured from inside to inside) then it probably has sufficient "meat" in the rim that drilling will not significantly weaken it. But of course it would be silly to do this simply because you have a Scharader tube -- tubes are cheap.
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