Hot answers tagged seatpost
9
On old steel bikes a good reason would be to prevent the seatpost from rusting onto the frame, thus preventing saddle height adjustment.
More recently I understand from my LBS that you do it to prevent water from seeping into the frame along the (imperfectly sealed) seatpost. Depending on your frame you could end up carrying one or more kilo's of water with ...
7
I present you with evidence that seatposts can, in fact, seize!
Alloy and steel seatposts are both perfectly capable of seizing to both alloy and steel frames.
IIRC, carbon seatpost/frame combinations may need carbon assembly paste for almost the opposite reason: to increase friction and reduce the torque required for a good grip.
5
That is unlikely. The inside of a frame is machined/molded to a specific size for the seat post. An integrated post is not finished internally. Also, it is unlikely that the internal and external diameters of the post/frame/clamp would match well enough to be ridden safely.
Seat post fitting is a zero tolerance game, and they are dimension-ed to the tenth ...
4
In addition to the seizure problem that others have mentioned, greasing the seatpost also prevents another problem: creaks.
I once spent weeks chasing down a creak that I initially thought was coming from the crank or bottom bracket. After disassembling and reassembling all that stuff, then tightening almost every single bolt on the bike, someone suggested ...
3
Possibly you were thinking of Ciasta aero seatposts which has a similar logo?
Something like this perhaps...
3
If you have an old inner tube available cut a section slightly longer than your seatpost. Slip it over the seat post and zip tie it in place. It will act as a somewhat water/dirt resistant boot, similar to what mountain bikes have on the front shocks. You may have to look for a fairly wide tube to fit over the post. Check with your local shop to see if they ...
2
The problem I had was getting the ammonia to the corrosion. I hung the bike upside down by both tires so the seat post was vertical. You can either remove the bottom bracket or as I did the bottle cage screw and fill the seat post with straight ammonia. If possible plug the hole so the ammonia doesn't evaporate. I let it hang for 2 days. I then laid the bike ...
2
I have an identical problem, having been rinding the bike without seat clamp for more than two years now.
I suppose you have already read something about it, if not I recommend Sheldon Brown on the subject. But I must warn you that the ammonia theory didn't work for me, and I tried ammonia on some aluminum sample parts without any visible effect (corrosion, ...
2
I'm 6'2" and my Giant XTC 29er XL (22") fits me perfectly. I would definitely upgrade. There's more to the geometry than just the height of the saddle that could affect the way your body fits (or contorts to) the frame.
2
Depends:
Frame and post material matters. With metal, bonding or rust can occur
Carbon posts can need the friction because they tend to be a smoother material
There can be imperfections that are too small for us to notice, so the grease can help to fill the gap for the seatpost retention to work
2
Figured this one out after a bit of work. If you look from the back side, you will see that there is a gap in the metal. This is to allow compression to clamp the seat tightly. Put the clamp on the frame of the bike, and if there is a quick release, tighten the nut hand tight. Then put the seat at the right level, facing the right direction, and close the ...
2
Many people do seat posts that achieve this - have a search on google for "Dropper seat post", All of the current models are almost certainly more reliable and easier to use than a simple spring, and can be activated while riding. The fact you cannot find any like the HiteRite is probably the effect of what we now refer to as Darwinism - not bad in it's ...
2
There is a good photo of a C Record post, here.
It sounds like you had a knock off C-Record post. The head you describe is different, and the C logo was sometimes used to infer Campy, when a product was not Campy.
The logo in the linked pic is what should be on a C Record post.
2
You want a separate saddle clamp, that clamps round the top of the post and the rails of a standard saddle, something like this.
See also http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html#seatpost
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/seatposts.html (scroll down to 'Traditional "pipe type" seatposts, use with separate saddle clamp'.)
1
Sandpaper and/or a wire brush would probably be ok.
What would work better would be a bench grinder with a buffing wheel and some buffing compound. That'd get it shiny and new looking.
If you don't have access to that, you could probably do a decent job with a Dremel but it would take forever.
1
According to info from Sheldon Brown, Your Giant post is most likely to be 30.8 as this seems to be a common size on with that brand - however you don't give the age and model of the bike, so it could be Giant changed to another size. The conspiracy theorist in me thinks its so they sell a whole new bike when to can't find a matching seat post.
I have also ...
1
I bike with two children, now aged 1 and 4, and have tried a number of solutions. A couple specific suggestions for you:
First, some child seats come bundled with their own rack. One of them is the Topeak BabySeat.
Second, heavy duty racks include weight ratings. Old Man Mountain is a respected brand and has a rack in their line rated to carry 70 lbs. ...
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