Hot answers tagged

10

Yes. However, it varies by type of riding and conditions. All Mountain is probably the extreme example of this (and the main market for dropper seatposts). All Mountain bikes are designed to be able to climb and for that generally one would want the seat in a "high" position to be efficient. During a technical descent, however, the seat is generally ...


9

Most seat posts have a "minimum" insert of 3 to 4 inches. But this varies with the material and the thickness of the post, and the weight of the rider means the minimum might still be too little. As a tall rider I frequently have my seatposts up to maximum, and have bent several over time, and have fractured one frame. Now I always buy a 450 mm or 500 mm ...


6

The manufacturer of the seat post would have really answered this with the minimum mark. You should really maintain at least the same length within the frame. Aside from stability, if the seat post is too short, then you risk damaging the frame of the bike, because there is a higher force within the frame due to the same torque being required, but at a ...


6

This article, The Four and a Half Rules of Road Saddles, from Cervélo Cycles has been really helpful to me when pondering saddles. I think the key points are: The saddle needs to be wide enough to support your "sit bones" but not so wide that it chafes on your thighs. The saddle has to be flat enough that the part between your sit bones doesn't press up on ...


6

Yes, there is. If you spend a lot of time standing on the pedals and not using the saddle then you will probably want the saddle to be low so that it doesn't get in your way. If you spend a lot of time pedalling hard or fast when sitting down you are more likely to want the seatpost high so you can pedal efficiently from that position - probably high ...


6

I had an exactly same problem: Ritchey WCS seatpost, Merida frame (both alu alloy) and a lightweight clamp, like in @Frisbee's answer. What I tried: Beefy clamp with various torque settings. Didn't help at all. PVC tape. Helped, but didn't last long. More torque on a lightweight clamp. I snapped it in half with only 6Nm. Hair spray. To my surprise, it ...


6

It depends on the frame material what effect the water inside the frame will have. A lot of frames have a small hole drilled at the bottom of the bottom bracket casing. If there is no hole there you can drill one yourself. I have done this on aluminium frames before and it is very easy. Use a 4mm drill bit and drill through till you cut into the bottom ...


5

There are a lot of more potentially useful avenues to investigate first, because you feel that chamois pad quality is not the culprit next most obvious choice is the saddle: Stock saddles are often not very high quality. They are also typically too soft (aka not supportive) which will cause problems on longer longer rides. Adding to this, if you still ...


5

I am a daily commuter and I have been riding (mainly) road bikes on the road for over 40 years. Comfort is important to me and more so as I spend longer periods in the saddle. A setup that suits another, may not suit you and vice versa however, there is plenty of information on settings to get you into the ballpark. Improvement requires a bit of ...


5

Drilling the seat tube is a bad idea, for the reasons you've indicated. Very rarely a bike shop will have a tool for reaming a seat tube (more usually framebuilders have those) that can to the task in a slightly safer way. BUT from my experience with a welded steel frame where I didn't bother to back-purge (lesson learned!), even once you weld an extension ...


3

With a high bottom bracket the ideal seat post may be impractically high in certain situations. Depending on your preferred foot for putting down and the typical camber the bike may have to lean more than you'd like if you sit in a ready-to-go position at traffic lights. The biggest example for me though is with a toddler seat on the back. That's a lot of ...


3

After trying a chunkier clamp and hairspray, I found this Clamp did not help much, the hairspray was better, but I was a little concerned about the solvent stuff in the aerosol. The Liquid Torque has been applied and I have done over 120 miles since, with not even a millimetre of slippage! Thanks for the other answers ...


3

Answer: This is what can happen. Please check my question at What caused this seat clamp / frame failure? This was caused by a really long seat post installed way too far up. http://i.stack.imgur.com/1CiVW.jpg I also have a bad habit of bending seat posts at the point they enter the frame, mostly due to the leverage from being so long.


2

Almost all seats and seat posts use a standard width and size rail. Unless you have a very high end setup, it will be compatible. Since the one that you described didn't fit, I agree with the previous posters that the LBS has got it wrong somehow. Note that padding is not the only way to reduce saddle pain: getting a saddle that fits is much more ...


2

As bhell already mentioned, seat posts on older bikes (or those with straight top tubes) tend to be shorter in relation to newer bikes "designed" for the same body measurements. The reason for this is explained well by Sheldon Brown: On the other hand, why shouldn't you ride a "too small" bike? "Because the seat and handlebars will be too low!" That ...


2

How would I search for something like this on amazon or elsewhere? rear light aero seatpost This works on Amazon and elsewhere.


2

I just installed my own 2016 Giant Contact SL Switch dropper post in the internal cable routing mode this week. The simple answer is you would be best advised to just remove the seat itself by undoing the clamp bolts with the appropriate hex wrench, leaving the post itself installed in the frame. If that solution does not sufice, then opt for external ...


2

As long it secures the seatpost I don't see how a screw instead of bolt can damage the bike. If it fails, the worst case would be a seat sliding down. You might find it inconvient if screw has head that requires tools not usually used for bicycles, like phillips screwdriver or a hex head. New seatpost collars are cheap, so you can buy a replacement to feel ...


2

Aww man I'm jealous - can you please add a side-photo of the whole bike? 70's tandems were renouned for being quite short, and most of the length is lost in the stoker's area. Mine's a 80's model and one of the touted features is "2 inches more stoker room!" So if you want the full 70's look, embrace the aero advantage of being so close. And don't ...


1

Bottom bracket and the inside of the frame might get oxidised (rusty). Cover the hole with a plastic bag or something else, to prevent rain from going inside your frame.


1

It depends on the grade, material, and the threading of the fastener you found. You'll want fine (a.k.a. machine) pitch threads and Stainless Steel for the material (otherwise it'll rust and sieze) The collars are usually Aluminum and there is a galvanic corrosion that'll take place unless you use a lot of grease or some blue loctite (formula 242, or ...


1

No. Based on your question and your comments, there is not a product that does what you are seeking (get your hips over the bottom bracket). The reason being that no one rides that far forward.1 The old style Profile is probably your best bet for getting forward: There are designs with a seat over the bottom bracket, even some that are made super-...


1

If you prefer the cushion of the seat post, you could request a new one, especially if it keeps coming apart. It should be covered under the warranty. If you don't care about the spring support, a simple seat post will be more sturdy.


1

Or you can go smaller and shim it up with aluminum cans. EDIT: I removed the suggestion to get a 27.2 and remove .2 mm of material.


1

A fast look at bikecomponents. Look at the SUSPENSION SEATPOST section.


1

I would suggest any site like Amazon, EBay, or craigslist even. I just skimmed through and Amazon, as well as EBay have a good assortment of seat posts in that size. If you want an actual bike shop website, try using Wiggle. It is something of a surplus store, so they have a pretty decent selection at decent prices. Your seat post size seems to be fairly ...


1

I swear by the seats that have a hole in the center. Terry was the original but now other manufacturers make them as well. I have used them for years. Even with tons of gel the fragile parts are still going to be in direct contact with the seat and that hurts. If you do go that route, you'll have to adjust it a little here and there to make sure that it's ...


1

Yet another option exits: to go without any additional cables from the dropper by using a wireless electronic one. No routing required. As a bonus, you can place the remote control anywhere you like. Currently there is only one vendor to offer wireless seatposts though, and a single model they offer is Magura Vyron. It comes only in two sizes: ø30.9mm x ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible