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8

To crudely simplify things, a triathlon/TT bike position is much the same as a road position, but basically "rotated forward", so your arms rest atop the very-low-set bars. A consequence of this is, the seat ends up further forward. (source) Using Chris Froome's TT position as an example, noting the hip position versus the bottom-bracket position: ...


7

There are generally two types of dropper seatposts, mechanical (e.g. GravityDropper) and hydraulic (e.g. RockShox Reverb). Mechanical dropper seatposts use a spring to move the seatpost and a bolt to keep it in place. This is a very simple design and there are few things that can break or jam, and the weight is also kept very reasonable since there are few ...


6

There isn't always one size frame which fits a person well in a given model line of bikes (there may be 2 or more - probably 2 if someones on the border of sizes). In some cases, you can get multiple models to fit by swapping out stems and seatposts and saddle and handlebar adjustments or swaps. However, this is highly dependent on the particular model of ...


6

There are seatpost shims available for a few dollars. You should get them easily in your local shop or online. I use an aluminum shim in one of my bikes with exactly the dimensions you need, it works flawlessly and looks very clean. I got it for about 3.50 € (5$).


5

Triathlon bikes are about one thing, and one thing only. Aerodynamics. Dan Empfield, the creator of the Quintana Roo brand, recognized this early on. Cervelo came along soon after, and their designs basically changed how time trial bikes are viewed, with their breakthrough design of the P3 in 2001 (Company history here.) This P3 design evolved, and there ...


5

Any frame can support a range of rider sizes by adjusting (among other things) the seat post and stem. However, as you might suspect, there are compromises to be made. And, there are limits to how big of a rider can fit on a given frame. I'll explain a bit more below to illustrate these points. You can adjust the seat post by making it higher (may ...


5

A seat post pump would offer a type of convenience that may not be applicable to a wide range of riders. High-end seat posts are made out of carbon fiber. Even many mid-range aluminum bikes have carbon-fiber seat posts. Using an aluminum seat post pump would negate the benefits of carbon seat posts. CO2 canister pumps offer more convenience than a seat ...


4

Typically, for an aluminum post you align the gaps. For a carbon post you turn the clamp 180 degrees from the gap in the seattube to minimize the chance of crimping the seatpost. Some manufacturers have their own recommendations, but they're typically in line with what the aforementioned guidelines.


3

Aligning the gaps will allow the clamp to compress the tube a little better, therefore reducing the amount of tension needed from the clamp to hold the seat post in. And less tension means a longer life for your seat post clamp. Now, there's the issue of which way your clamp lever faces if you use a quick release clamp. Most have it facing backwards so it ...


2

I think the photo is a bit misleading - even the 33.9mm diameter post-pump is only 580mm long. The smaller diameter ones are only 350mm long. So it's more of a compact high pressure pump than a proper floor pump. At $25 I expect it to be cheap and awful. A decent aluminium seatpost costs that much without the pump. I would be concerned that it would wear ...


2

A good approximation can be made using some basic trigonometry and common sense. I will use WR as wheel radius (i.e. half the wheel diameter) and the numbers refer to the distance indicated in the picture you uploaded. First of all, the height of the vertical tube (aka the vertical projection of the tube) is just sin(5)*1. Then the distance between the ...


2

0.2mm on seatpost clamp will make no difference! The tolerence is small maybe 1-2mm. a 0.2mm difference is pretty much how far the clamp moves when you tighten the binder! maybe even more. Youll see how far it moves when you take the binder off the frame and tighten it a little. the clamp goes smaller basically clamping down. so in practice it clamps the ...


2

It partially depends on where the cable comes out of the post. If it's from the top you can route the cable across the bottom of the top tube and up to the handle bar or down the seat tube and up the down tube. On the other hand, if the cable comes out of the bottom of the post, you can try to go out the bottom of the seat tube and up the down tube. What is ...


2

If the bike is a cheap one, then a really cheap seatpost must exist for it. Cheap Seatposts are usually made of steel or mild steel, which should withstand the wear from repeatedly adjusting the seat height, so my advise here is, don't worry that much. Some bikes use a type of seatpost that doesn't have an integrated seat clamp. If this is your case, it is ...


2

The only disadvantage I can think of (that you haven't already listed) is the remote control: It's yet another control sat on the handlebars. This is fine if you're running a single chain ring (1×10 or similar), because it can sit where the front shifter would normally go. Less than ideal if you're running 2 or 3×10, have remote lockouts, a bell and so on. ...


1

Traveling long distances on a bike seat is almost always going to be uncomfortable when your body isn't used to it. Give it time. But also, consider taking your bike with you to have a professional make sure the seat and the bike fit you. Some people have managed to permanently damage their blood vessels ( I won't go into detail ) by improperly sitting on a ...


1

In addition to aerodynamics, not yet mentioned is the benefit to your running off the bike. By changing the seat angle, you use your muscles differently and can run faster off the bike than a more traditional seat post angle. As noted in this article, test subjects were about 5 minutes faster in a 40k/10k Brick (stationary bike/treadmill run). There was ...


1

Through a lot of searching, I can't say there's anywhere that sells that specific part; however, you may have some luck contacting the manufacturer or distributor directly. But, a much easier and simpler solution would be to replace the clamp/collar entirely. It's probably pretty worn out if you're missing that piece anyway! Check out the great selection ...


1

There are seat posts available that have a curve that can be used to the rear or to the front. Without knowing your height or more importantly, your weight, recommendations can't be made, but I'll include links that may help you decide. I surely wouldn't recommend making your own from handle bars or any material you don't know the history of. If the seat ...


1

Get 2 spanners that fit. Hold the bolts on both sides with the spanners and turn any one side to remove easily. To put it back alternately rotate each side 1 or 2 turns. Be careful with the tightness, if it's slightly loose you'll experience slight play in the saddle and the micro adjust assembly will soon get worn out. Too tight and you might deform your ...


1

Sandpaper and/or a wire brush would probably be ok. What would work better would be a bench grinder with a buffing wheel and some buffing compound. That'd get it shiny and new looking. If you don't have access to that, you could probably do a decent job with a Dremel but it would take forever.



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