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18

As (almost) always, the great Sheldon Brown has covered this particular topic. Standing while Cycling To Sit or to Stand? It is my belief that a great many cyclists stand up to pedal much more often than they should. I've often said: "If you find yourself standing to accelerate, on level ground, it is a sign that your gear is too high or that ...


13

You have a double front, right? The usual advice is to not shift into the highest 3 gears in the rear cassette when in front the chain is on the large chainring, and to not shift into the smallest 3 cogs, when the chain in front is on the small chainring. This prevents 'cross-chaining', which wears the chain fast, produces noise and difficult shifting. ...


11

If you can, with the chain in one of the middle cogs in the back, shift to each of the front chain rings then your front derailleur is likely in proper alignment and adjustment. This question and answer cover how to adjust the derailleur if you want to learn how to do it yourself. What you are describing, shifting to small ring in front and small cog in ...


9

http://www.landriderbikes.com They were very heavily advertised several years ago but currently they seem to show up more on craigslist than on TV.


9

There isn't really any reason you can't stand while pedaling. If your drive train is not adjusted properly then they will experience skipping or mis-shifting. That's an entirely separate issue from being able to stand up and pedal.


8

I agree with Hicks sentiment that the crank "giving" is more likely due to worn parts or misalignment. The crank would have to flex a lot to actually be responsible for ghost shifting, which would make it incredibly poor quality. Sheldon's article strikes me as cursory for "When Should You Stand"... Assuming you have the gearing for whatever you're riding ...


8

Not using the upper and lower gears is a very effective solution. Stupid, but effective. Traditionally one would simply use the limit screws (at the rear derailleur, often marked L(ow) and H(igh)). Shift to the lowest/highest gear (front and rear) and tighten the screw so that it only allows the mech to move ever so slightly over the edge of the ...


7

Learning some better shifting technique may solve this. It also could be that, despite your best efforts, the derailers are out of alignment. Two questions: Is the chain falling off on the front chainring or on the rear cogs? If so, is it happening on the inside or outside? (If it's happening in the rear and the chain is hitting the spokes, this can be ...


7

Trek had a bicycle a few years ago named "Lime" which had 3 speed automatic gearing. I don't think it sold well. It used a gearing system called "Coasting" that was created by Shimano and actually controlled by a computer chip from signals from the front hub. "A dynamo is fitted on the front hub that gauges the revolutions of the wheel. It sends this ...


7

The B-screw controls the body angle of the derailleur. It pulls the pulleys away from the sprockets, so you don't rub against them. If you set it in the largest rear cog (as you should), when you're adequately clear, you don't have rubbing. Its a somewhat insensitive adjustment once you clear the cogs, but the closer you are to the loosest screw value ...


6

Sad to say, not worth the effort! However, if you are a bulk user of cable outer then you can invest in a big reel of the stuff (obviously genuine Shimano) and some Shimano cable cutters (TL-CT-10). Note the price is wrong: http://www.madison.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=6Y1+9801 However, order by Madison part code from your LBS and get the brake cable ...


6

3 basic tips Try to be predictive in your shifting. Don't wait until you really need the next lower gear to change gears. Try to do it before your cadence drops to where you're mashing on the pedals Ease up on the pedals when shifting. If you missed on the first tip, then let up on the mashing very briefly during the downshift. This will aid the chain in ...


5

It sounds as if you adjusted the barrel adjuster out too far, the last time you adjusted it, and damaged the threads on the adjuster. When the shop cleans and lubes it, it is fine for a few days, and then gets stuck again, because the threads are cross threaded or stripped. If the damage is relatively minor, it can act normal until it is under a little ...


5

I would have started by noting which gear (front or rear) is slipping and adjusting the tension on the corresponding shifter/derailer to bring it closer to correct adjustment. A rule of thumb is, make the adjustment and if it gets worse then you are going the wrong way :-) If the shop changed your chain did they also change the cassette (rear gears). The ...


5

Since it only happens when you stand I would say it is definitely a combination of a worn chain and worn chainring, and nothing to do with shifters or derailleurs. As a chain wears, it 'stretches', meaning the distance between the pins in the chain grows. This is a result of the side plates wearing into the pin. Once the chain starts to 'stretch', it starts ...


5

I have ridden one - it used weights thrown out by centrifugal force and springs to move the derailleur in and out. Horrible is all I can say. Maybe it was me not being used to it, but things like not being in the gear you left it in, and less than smooth changes - which you have not idea when they are going to happen, especially under power. The only ...


5

Crossing chaining hasn't been any problem at all since the invention of bushless chains 20+ years ago and wasn't even a real problem back in the ancient days. It's a persistent myth that just won't die... Your bike should leave the shop capable of shifting into any combo of gears possible and riding any amount of time you like in that gear. At most I would ...


4

It sounds like you have accidently mixed up the cables and routed the front dérailleur cable to the rear shifter and vice versa. You can change them so that the front shifter goes to the front dérailleur pretty easily. Just swap them at the shifters.


4

I would bet for the chain having rusted, leaving some links "locked" and not turning free between each other. Also, if rust built over the sprocket's teeth surface, it can cause the chain to skip under pedal load, bacause the chain doesn't engage properly. I am telling you this because my damn lovely(#@%) cat pissed the cog cluster of one of my bikes, and ...


4

Assuming it's not been used it probably needs a touch of lube and some adjustment. If your friend only rode it for a month he probably didn't even get the bedding in service done on it. New cables on a bike normally bed in after a little while (time depends on use) and so things go out of line fairly quickly initially which is why bike shops normally do ...


4

There have been attempts over the years, but never particularly successful. One I recall used a 5-speed rear hub that was shifted by weights on the spokes, similar to a centrifugal governor. I expect that, with the new electric shifters, there will be some new attempts at it in the next year or two. With a computer it should be possible to be reasonably ...


4

First disconnect the cable to rear derailleur and using your hand push the derailleur towards the spokes and then release it. Do you feel any binding? If so, something is wrong with your derailleur. With the rear derailleur cable still disconnected, grab hold of the cable and slide it through the housings. Is it catching on anything? Some resistance is ...


4

Remember, very few road racers are giving it hell from a standing start. The vast majority of the time they are traveling at a fairly high rate of speed as they approach the end of the race (With the lead out for the sprint, positioning, etc), so the need to jump multiple gears is very limited. Other times where quick acceleration is needed is to jump a gap ...


4

Completely stopping pedaling will not let you shift gears at all. You do have to reduce the tension in the top of the chain to shift front, so pedal, but with small force. The derailleur cannot push the chain sideways if it is under too much tension and thus pulled tight against the chainrings. It is normal to reduce pedaling force when shifting.


4

Use the Clutch! This is what I always tell people when I'm teaching them how to shift gears properly. Chain-rings and Cogs are machined with *pickup points" that assist transferring the chain from one ring to the other, they only work while you're turning the cranks. So I tell people to let all the power off of their pedals, but keep the cranks turning and ...


3

It appears that someone has come up with a solution to use vbrake noodles to re-route the STI shifter cables with some success. http://thecrazyrandonneur.wordpress.com/2012/05/08/how-to-have-a-large-handlebar-bag-with-sti-shifters/


3

The best solution is probably to move to either a different shifter setup like newer shimano 105/ultegra or SRAM (with cable routing under the handlebars) or to a barend setup like most randos employ. I know this isn't your preferred solution, but it's probably the easiest and most effective. If you mess with the routing/length on your shift cables, you're ...


3

If your rear derailleur is in the 28t cog, there is only one click available, because shifting to the next (non-existent) cog would put your chain in your wheel. Because of the way the Double Tap levers work, the first click will release to the next gear down, either 27t or 26t depending on your cassette. There is nothing to fix. This is proper behavior ...


3

The cable needs adjusting. A new cable will tend to stretch and go out of adjustment, so they should provide a free adjustment after replacing it.


3

I'd guess that running soapy water through the housing would cause it to corrode faster, since you'd never be able to rinse it out well. (Very) light oiling will help.



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