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5

The B-screw controls the body angle of the derailleur. It pulls the pulleys away from the sprockets, so you don't rub against them. If you set it in the largest rear cog (as you should), when you're adequately clear, you don't have rubbing. Its a somewhat insensitive adjustment once you clear the cogs, but the closer you are to the loosest screw value ...


3

You might consider working on your cadence range; if you are able to spin up to 120-130 RPM, you will have a larger range and won't need to shift as often. One-legged drills and pure cadence drills can work well for this.


3

Remember, very few road racers are giving it hell from a standing start. The vast majority of the time they are traveling at a fairly high rate of speed as they approach the end of the race (With the lead out for the sprint, positioning, etc), so the need to jump multiple gears is very limited. Other times where quick acceleration is needed is to jump a gap ...


3

The following links will show you how to adjust a derailleur: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur Note that cables and derailleurs do need replacing from time to time and they do need occasional adjustment, but try to follow one of the derailleur adjustment ...


2

First disconnect the cable to rear derailleur and using your hand push the derailleur towards the spokes and then release it. Do you feel any binding? If so, something is wrong with your derailleur. With the rear derailleur cable still disconnected, grab hold of the cable and slide it through the housings. Is it catching on anything? Some resistance is ...


2

User6527 is wrong there. You can not use derailleur shifters due to the different cable length that is pulled or pushed to shift to another gear. You can not use other brands' shifters either for the same reason. The shifter you mention yourselve is available in black and silver, and both with and without integrated brake lever. There is also a 'cheaper' ...


2

Check out the new Autobike http://www.autobike.tv. It uses a CVT.


1

What does "two inches too high" mean? And by first gear, do you mean the smallest (i.e. hardest) sprocket/cog? If so, (actually, even if it's the largest cog), the screw you first want to adjust (before making changes to the B-limit screw) is the high (or low) limit screw. These are the screws that define the limits of the derailleur in terms of how far in ...


1

Change gears before you need to You can do this two ways. Change to a higher gear before you stop. Get out of the saddle when you start. You'll accelerate faster and shouldn't need to change gears until your doing 30 kph (20 mph) or so. Or change gears regularly as you start, say every 3 or 4 pedal strokes. 1, 2, 3, change. 1, 2, 3, change.


1

From working on bikes, the amount of force needed to pull a gear cable is more than I can apply gripping the cable with my fingers, but is easy to apply gripping the cable with pliers. So probably about 10-20N. But almost all that force is required to oppose the return spring in the derailleur. Remove that spring and the force drops by an order of magnitude. ...


1

With the exception of the new electronic stuff, every shifter out there that isn't the old friction style works on a ratchet and spring mechanism to index the amount of cable being pulled or released. Is that what you are asking?


1

That comes down whether the internal mechanism of the different Nexus 3 hubs are the same or not. My guess is they are the same. Some options for you: I had a similar issue with a Nexus 8 hub. In the end I checked with a Shimano approved service center in near me (looked up on Shimano's page). I talked in person to the mechanic, and he knew which would ...



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