New answers tagged shifting
Those are just gear cables, you will need to buy brake cables and outers. Good on you for building it yourself, it's definitely do-able with a modicum of skill and even with limited experience. But... there's quite a few things you can do slightly wrong that will make the bike unsafe to ride. I think it would be good to have someone check over the bike ...
It sounds as though the return spring in the rear derailleur is no longer strong enough to push it back. Most likely the grease or oil in the system has dried out and become glue, probably dusty glue, over the time the bike wasn't used. One easy test (that may also fix the problem) is to leave the shifter set to high gear and while pedalling the bike on the ...
I'm familiar with RSX brifters (brake and shift combo units) If that's what you have then its likely the grease has gummed up, stopping the under-lever from engaging the release. You might be able to finangle it a couple times by manipulating the underlever carefully, and you'll feel it catch. A blast in the guts of the brifter with brake cleaner or ...
You should look at your barrel adjuster on your rear derailleur. During those three years your cable tension probably loosen up. Here is one of my favourite videos on how to readjust your rear derailleur
Think of the problem from the other perspective. The designer of the cassette knows how much the derailleur will move the chain laterally - nearly constant each shift. That's all the derailleur really does. The designer can therefore design the profile of the cassette teeth and the position of each cog 'clockwise' relative to the next one to enable good ...
There is a problem with the cable that links the shifter to the mechanism (rear derailleur) The cable has become slack over time and needs to be tighter. You can tighten it by turning a barrel adjuster if there is one present. it might be as pictured and there might be one where the cable leaves the shifter on the handlebar. looking in the direction of the ...
I've experienced the same thing maybe a dozen times. You can tweak the front of the derailleur as well, but that's only a bandaid. I can feel your frudtration cuz most of my bikes are vintage and components get worn by miles of use and not years.
If you can take this to a shop, get them to put it on a stand and show you how the gears should work after they adjust them.
In reality the derailleur doesn't care what the tooth count difference is between gears. The shifter simply moves the derailleur towards or away from the wheel. This causes the chain to be misaligned with the current gear and move to the selected gear.
Assuming that the cabling is clean, that the derailleur is nicely indexed and well alligned, the derailleur hanger not bent, and the chain correctly moves lateraly +/- 4mm for each gear up or down, then I would have a look at the distance between the upper jockey pulley and the sprockets. The distance should be on all sprockets less than 25 mm and more than ...
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