Hot answers tagged shimano
11
Typically the majority of their yearly R&D is spent on their top of the line group, then they will trickle down it's technology to the next lower group, and continue that way, so usually, this years tiagra is close to last years 105, etc. The major thing to look for is # of speeds in a group, weight, and finish.
I believe the 2010 Sora(3400) set is ...
8
Presumably with 12K+ km, and never having bought new chain rings, you have a very high cadence. You should get a new chain every time you change your cassette, btw.
If you are doing the work yourself, I don't see any reason to change the chain ring immediately. Try the new cassette and chain and see how it works. If it isn't broke, don't fix it. If it ...
8
Answer: No you don't need a new hub.
However, you will probably need to put a small (~1mm) spacer at the back of the cassette, otherwise you won't be able to tighten the whole cassette down. Also be aware that prolonged use of a 10-speed cassette on an 8/9-speed freehub body will cause dents to form in the freehub body (because the 10-speed cogs are so ...
7
These are just editions of specific product lines. It's the same as BMW with the 3-series, 5-series and 7-series. Let's take Shimano Dura-Ace, for instance. It's traditionally a 7000-series of product numbers.
7200 - 1978-era Dura-Ace
7400 - Mid-to-late 1980's
7700 - 9-speed Dura-Ace ~ late 1990's
7800 - 10-speed Dura-Ace ~ 2000's
7900 - Current ...
7
That particular Shimano freehub can be disassembled, but it is quite a job to get it back together afterward. There are around 80 2mm bearings in two different locations in the freehub, and a skilled and practiced mechanic has roughly a 60% chance of opening without losing parts, and successfully getting it back together.
The good news is, there is a tool ...
7
From your photo, the left pulley (beefier, with metal bushing) is the top one, which goes closer to the cassette.
I know that because that's how things were in every shimano derailer I had over the years, and I think that makes pretty much sense, since the beefier pulley (the upper one) actually shifts the gears, while the bottom, thinner one is only an ...
6
Assuming the hub is a freehub design (the freewheel mechanism is in a splined body onto which the cassette (sprockets) fit), no. 8, 9 and 10 speed cassettes are all the same width.
See: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#10cassettes
6
You will need a 10-speed cassette, 10-speed rear derailleur, and 10-speed right side shifter and a 10-speed chain to work with the narrower spacing on the rear cassette. There tend to be some compatibility issues with 9-speed derailleurs run on a 10-speed drivetrain (some people seem to have luck using 9-speed shimano mountain derailleurs with 10-speed ...
5
I would only replace if:
The chain is skipping because of wear of the teeth
You get chainsuck even when the chain is clean (small chainrings are more prone to chainsuck)
For cassettes I would not consider changing unless it skips when you have put on a new chain.
The best tactic is to change your chain often enough so that you minimise the wear in your ...
5
While price is not the defining factor, there is no doubt that it is a key indicator of quality.
List of Groupsets
Below is a list of the three largest manufacturer's groupsets for Road and MTB applications.
Each manufacturer's offering is arranged in descending price/quality.
The number of sprockets of the cassette in each groupset is shown in ...
5
The Deore XT is a mountain bike derailleur and as such has is long cage dérailleur. Long cage dérailleurs can run larger cassettes for a larger gearing range (at the cost of larger jumps between gears). I don't know what the Shimano product selection was like in 1999, but you can now get Shimano 105 as either long or short cage depending on your set up (see ...
4
Judging by Sheldon's Guide, it definitely looks like you are in need of a new chainring. Your middle and larger sprockets in particular look like they have taken on a significant ramp-like profile, which will surely lead to lackluster shifting.
4
Some people have modded the pedals to add set-screws which provide better grip. Typically this involves drilling a hole, tapping it for threads, and adding a set screw of the desired length.
For example, here's an a530 with 2x set screws added:
4
I would pay a visit to your local skateboard shop and get some 'skateboard grip tape'.
This should be inexpensive and it can be applied in such a way that your pedals are not permanently damaged. The glue on the stuff is pretty good and it is pretty much totally designed for keeping feet in place.
Your pedals might look a bit naff with bits of tape wrapped ...
4
Your basic barrel adjuster is a tube with a thread on the outside of one end. The threaded end fits into a female threaded piece, either the shifter itself or another tube. (If you have this second type, where the female end is another tube, it's necessary to hold that second tube stationary while turning the first tube.)
The cable passes through the ...
4
The Ultegra 6600 STI lever is available as a right hand only part. It should cost around $400 dollars for the right shifter only, and around $600 dollars for the set.
Any Shimano 10 speed rear shifter, including the new Tiagra 4600 10 speed will be compatible. If you have current brakes, and you use a 10 speed STI lever, as previously noted, you will have ...
4
I'm going to assume two things: 1) Your current setup was is all 9-speed and has never been upgraded from 8-speed, and 2) your shifters are indexed and not friction shifters. If either of those are wrong, it changes things. That said...
You are correct about the cassette, right shifter, and chain. You will also need a new rear derailleur. You'll most likely ...
4
I don't think you will need to change the frame, I looked at one of the bianchi series a while back and I saw the same frame (the Oltre - I can but dream) offered at different prices depending on the groupset. But the groupsets available were from both shimano and campag. There's variations with Dura Ace, Ultegra, Athena, Super Record etc. I can't imagine ...
4
The measurement that is important here is the caliper reach. As always, there's a great article on Sheldon Brown's website
Reach is the effective length of the arms of a caliper brake. This is measured from the centerline of the center bolt diagonally down to the middle of the brake shoe. Reach is commonly expressed as a range (allowing for the fact that ...
4
I posed a similar question (or at least a question which raises similar issues) on here a few months ago: Upgrade Shimano from 9- to 10- speed
The issue is not the different Shimano ranges per se, its going from 9 to 10 speed.
You can imagine that the 10-speed shifters will be expecting a 10-speed cassette at the other end of the wire - these things are ...
4
You don't need to worry about that.
There are nearly no components on your bike -- except for the hub and bottom bracket bearings -- that are sealed to be more or less waterproof. Most of the components are totally fine with water on or in them.
Especially for your shifters: their internals are mostly made out of plastic so no need to worry. As they are ...
4
All Shimano components have a series number (not serial number) embossed or engraved in the component. While it is possible that the numbers may be worn off or scratched over on older components, the theory you are working under seems to indicate that you would be looking for newer, lower level components, rather than older higher end stuff.
Check the back ...
3
Perhaps your shifter cable can't slide smoothly. Shift to the tallest gear (smallest cog). Pop the shifter housing out of the brazed-on stops. Slide the housing back and forth and look for stiffness. Put some lube in the housing and slide it back and forth to distribute it.
Perhaps your derailleur hanger is bent. A bike shop will have a tool to easily ...
3
The inline brakes are called interrupter brakes, or cross brakes.
It almost sounds like the pull of your inline cross breaks is meant for V-brakes, while your STI's are set for cantilever. From the details you provided, its hard to say what is going on.
If your brakes are set really loose, then both levers would bottom out before engaging, or would be ...
3
According to the Phil Wood FAQ:
What is the difference between JIS, JIS low profile, and ISO
tapers?
Phil Wood offers all three tapers to try and best meet the needs of our
customers who are using square-tapered
bottom brackets. An explaination of
the different bottom bracket tapers
can be found here. In brief, most
modern cranks will take ...
3
The common Shimano Dynamo hubs don't actually use sealed cartridge bearings, see the DH-3N71 and DH-3D72 techdocs. Shimano dynohubs do use good seals, however, and should hopefully be maintenance-free for many thousands of miles.
Alistair Spence has a good exploded view of an Alfine DH-S500, which is very similar to the DH-3D71. He also links there to a ...
3
Opening it is simple. Remove the grip, grasp the portion of the shifter that turns to shift, and rotate it back like you are shifting, while pulling it towards the center of the bar.
Putting it back together is not simple, and will likely not happen without assistance. Ask your LBS to show you the procedure if you want to learn.
If not, ask them to fix ...
3
I've not set up the Alfine 11 specifically, but it's quite similar to it's less-geared cousin. You might also consider the Alfine 8 - it's rather cheaper and is a well-regarded hub with only slightly less total gear range.
In either case, the main things you'll need will be the hub (the SG-700-L is for disc and rim brakes), a 26"/559 rim of your choice, ...
3
You don't need to buy NOS. 7 speed cassettes are still manufactured, we stock them and they start at $20 all the way up to $36 for a Shimano HG50 which comes in 12-28. Go with a matching Shimano HG50 chain.
Unless you buy a new rear wheel, you cannot go above 7 speed. 7 speed freehub bodies are shorter than 8+ speed freehub bodies. An 8+ speed cassette is ...
3
In general a SRAM or KMC link for an 8 or 9 speed chain will work fine with a similar Shimano 8 or 9 speed chain.
If you are dealing with a 10 speed chain I believe you will run into a compatibility problem as one brand is sightly narrower than the other (I can't remember which way and I only deal personally with 9 speed or lower).
I've used a SRAM power ...
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