Hot answers tagged shimano
7
From your photo, the left pulley (beefier, with metal bushing) is the top one, which goes closer to the cassette.
I know that because that's how things were in every shimano derailer I had over the years, and I think that makes pretty much sense, since the beefier pulley (the upper one) actually shifts the gears, while the bottom, thinner one is only an ...
6
You will need a 10-speed cassette, 10-speed rear derailleur, and 10-speed right side shifter and a 10-speed chain to work with the narrower spacing on the rear cassette. There tend to be some compatibility issues with 9-speed derailleurs run on a 10-speed drivetrain (some people seem to have luck using 9-speed shimano mountain derailleurs with 10-speed ...
5
The Deore XT is a mountain bike derailleur and as such has is long cage dérailleur. Long cage dérailleurs can run larger cassettes for a larger gearing range (at the cost of larger jumps between gears). I don't know what the Shimano product selection was like in 1999, but you can now get Shimano 105 as either long or short cage depending on your set up (see ...
4
I'm going to assume two things: 1) Your current setup was is all 9-speed and has never been upgraded from 8-speed, and 2) your shifters are indexed and not friction shifters. If either of those are wrong, it changes things. That said...
You are correct about the cassette, right shifter, and chain. You will also need a new rear derailleur. You'll most likely ...
4
I don't think you will need to change the frame, I looked at one of the bianchi series a while back and I saw the same frame (the Oltre - I can but dream) offered at different prices depending on the groupset. But the groupsets available were from both shimano and campag. There's variations with Dura Ace, Ultegra, Athena, Super Record etc. I can't imagine ...
4
The measurement that is important here is the caliper reach. As always, there's a great article on Sheldon Brown's website
Reach is the effective length of the arms of a caliper brake. This is measured from the centerline of the center bolt diagonally down to the middle of the brake shoe. Reach is commonly expressed as a range (allowing for the fact that ...
4
I posed a similar question (or at least a question which raises similar issues) on here a few months ago: Upgrade Shimano from 9- to 10- speed
The issue is not the different Shimano ranges per se, its going from 9 to 10 speed.
You can imagine that the 10-speed shifters will be expecting a 10-speed cassette at the other end of the wire - these things are ...
4
You don't need to worry about that.
There are nearly no components on your bike -- except for the hub and bottom bracket bearings -- that are sealed to be more or less waterproof. Most of the components are totally fine with water on or in them.
Especially for your shifters: their internals are mostly made out of plastic so no need to worry. As they are ...
4
All Shimano components have a series number (not serial number) embossed or engraved in the component. While it is possible that the numbers may be worn off or scratched over on older components, the theory you are working under seems to indicate that you would be looking for newer, lower level components, rather than older higher end stuff.
Check the back ...
3
Have you looked at the instructions for the derailleur? If not, it might help.
If the bike is a recent purchase, have you contacted BD? I'm not sure they will be able to help (how recent is a "recent purchase?"), but you have nothing to lose.
Your other alternative would be to go with the bike to a local bike shop, and let them repair it. It won't be free, ...
3
I love ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) for freewheel (not free hub) lube. What I do is lift the bike-- if someone can help you with this, it's a bit easier-- so that you can rotate the pedals (and make the back wheel spin). Ideally, the bike should be tilted to the non-drive side about 45-60 degrees. With the back wheel rotating, you can see where to ...
3
As long as you use a Shimano brake caliper designed for a road STI lever, which is any Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, or Dura-Ace, they will work not just well, but perfectly. There may be a performance difference, but there will not be a compatibility difference.
Even most 3rd party brake calipers will work just fine.
3
You don't need to change the whole hub, but you might well find it easier to do so. You will need a new freehub body.
The new hub assembly might be wider - http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#standard - in which case you will need to redish the wheel to get it central again. You can probably get away with using the same axle, as also described on ...
3
The simple answer is yes, you can just change the crankset without replacing the entire drive train however there are other considerations. Depends on if your changing rings out or replacing the set and cranks. Other considerations if doing a full replacement are:
Chain line
When selecting a new crank set you need to ensure it aligns with the current ...
3
Note : this is mostly based on my personal experience. Its an incredibly subjective subject, so there is no right answer. Keep in mind that in reality one level up or down will be completely unnoticeable performance difference to most riders.
XT is considered the "Sweat spot" for performance, weight and durability. Probably X9 in the SRAM range. XTR and ...
2
According to the Wikipedia page, the following groupset variations were specifically 9-speed:
Dura-Ace 7700 (1996-2002)
Ultegra 6500 (1997-2004)
105 5500 (dates unknown)
Tiagra before 4600 (before 2011)
Sora 3400 (2012-)
As far as other components go, it seems that as long as the cassette, chain and shifters match then the groupset should work. All ...
2
You need to check on three things to ensure that your new chainrings will work:
The number of arms on your spider. Road bikes typically have five.
The bolt spacing. This is most commonly expressed in BCD, or Bolt Center Diameter. The idea of BCD is a simple one, it's the distance from the center of a crankbolt to the crankbolt immediately opposite it on ...
2
I opened my shifter a bit, not disassembled the whole thing, but I was able to degrease it well. I then applied a lot of spray lube. I shifted up and down while spraying, making sure the lube got everywhere. I have used my bike every day in cold weather now, one day as cold as -10Celcius, everything seems to work. It can be a bit sticky, but I always manage ...
2
The cap is like the star-fangled nut on a threadless headset - it's only there to hold the crank in place when you do up the pinch bolts.
If the pinch bolts aren't holding the crank in place on their own, something else is wrong, and you really need to fix that. If the crank splines are worn because the shop fitted it wrong in the first place, they should ...
2
I wired a piece of rubber tubing around the front and back beams on mine and it helped a lot. I like the skateboard tape idea and will try it. These pedals are beautifully finished but the edges of all the lugs are rounded over and then hardcoat anodized resulting in a really slippery pedal; your feet tend to slide sideways and go off the outside edge ...
2
The link says that the BB you have is a 68mm shell width, which is standard ISO/British thread. That's going to fit a lot of bikes. It is not designed specifically for eccentric bottom brackets. To use the item you linked to in a single/fixed speed bike you would need horizontal (or at least diagonal) dropouts.
If that was part of an eccentric BB ...
2
The answer is yes you could replace your crank set with the FC-2303 but you would have to change your bottom bracket also. Look up the Shimano tech docs for these cranksets, all the information you need is there as well as the steps you take to change the bottom bracket.
The triple ring crankset is the FC-3304 with a 45mm chain line using a 118mm octalink ...
2
I'm no expert on Shimano components, but according to Sheldon Brown and Velobase, there were many 32H hubs from the Shimano 600 series: "Shimano added the word 'Ultegra' to their 600 group set in 1988 with the introduction of the 6400 series groupset. Also often recognized by the tri-color stripe on many of the parts."
According to Velobase, this is a 32H ...
2
You'll should be fine ordering the same size as what you currently have. Just order one pair and if they don't fit to your liking send them back. You'll probably get it right the first time, but if not some online shops offer free return shipping (Amazon?). You have a better than 50/50 chance of saving yourself the hassle of dealing with a return if you ...
2
All Shimano Hollowtech II road crank arms are compatible, however, the Deore is a mountain range. I don't think these are compatible, but I can't find anything.
You might want to look for a HT2 road crank arm. The Shimano road ranges are DuraAce, Ultegra, 501, Tiagra, Sora and 2100. Not sure if these all offer HT2 cranks.
Also, you'll need a special tool ...
2
As mentioned by Alex, Hollowtech parts are compatible. If all you're replacing is the left-hand crank arm, the only thing that you need to worry about is that it is the same length as your existing crank arm. Whether it's for mountain or road bikes, crank arms come in a variety of different lengths.
The weight will likely be off if you get any type of ...
2
Mountain bikes have wider chain stays than road bikes so the cranks need to be further apart to prevent them (or the cyclist's heel) from banging into the frame. The distance between the pedal attachment points on the crank arms is referred to as the Q factor. Typical Q factor for road cranks is ~150mm; for mountain cranks it is ~175mm. This means a mountain ...
1
You should be able to buy single spokes for this wheel.
The model number for the current Ultegra wheels is Y4FP98130 according tothis. What year are your wheels??
1
I recently went through a similar process with my Easton EA90 SLX wheel.
In my case, 2 spokes broke at the same time (or one immediately after the other). After special ordering the spokes from Easton and lacing them up, I quickly realized that the rim was bent beyond the point of repair.
The fewer spokes your wheel has, the higher the spoke tension needs ...
1
As your Scott is a modern bike, I'd be inclined to agree with some of the other answers here and say that I don't think you will require any modifications to your frame if you switch from Shimano to Campagnolo. There are some areas which are not strictly frame related where you may need to be careful.
If you're switching to an EPS groupset then it's likely ...
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