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0

I'd like to swap the crankset out - it's a Shimano Sora 30/42/52T (FC3303). For example, I have seen a Shimano Ultegra with the same 30/42/52T (FC6503) on Craigslist. Are there any specific details I need to be aware of matching up? The main detail you will have to watch out for (as indicated by Kibbee) is whether the two cranks use the same ...


1

There are a few simple ways to determine this: Take a ruler and measure the cage length. Then compare it with the Shimano spec sheet for the model of the derailleur. Look to see if SS/GS/SGS is written somewhere on the derailleur. SS means short cage, GS means medium cage. SGS means long cage. See what the cog sizes are and calculate the required ...


1

The space is normal and overfilling should not alter this (over bleeding can be used to improve lever feel though see this blog article from Epic bleed solutions). As you say the pistons will adjust automatically. The gap left should be equivalent to the displacement of both pistons by the master cylinder (lever). That said if the calliper was not centred ...


14

They're trying to sell you stuff. More expensive stuff (have you looked at 11 speed consumable (chain+cassette) prices vs 10 speed?). I would not bother upgrading. As groups go to higher and higher speeds, the older stuff gets pushed down to lower component levels. So today's 11 speed 105 group will be next year's (or likely a few years later) Tiagra ...


0

I'd say get any cheap thumb shifter. Much easier to operate than grip+twist shifter. Click down is very easy. Shift up requires a firm push with the thumb. My daughter when learning to shift gears had a big problem. She's a tough cookie but more delicate hands than average and the twist shifts were just too stiff. You don't notice this with big strong ...


1

Your freehub need the lightest, thinnest grease you can use. Shimano does make a specific freehuv grease, and that is what I'd use, even if I had to order it. But Slick Honey, SRAM Hub Butter, or a similar thin, lightweight grease will work in a pinch. Don't use oil or a chain lube. They wont do the job.


2

If you don't want to use a bicycle grease (Park Tool PolyLube 1000 or Phil Wood Waterproof grease or Shimano's greases or whatever), use something like automotive multipurpose or wheel bearing grease. The Valvoline stuff is red and comes in a big tub for about 5-10 dollars and can be bought at any automotive shop.


1

With Shimano STI brake lever and shifter combos, you have two options for where a barrel adjuster is placed. An inline barrel adjuster can be placed on the cable housing, between where it leaves the handle at and the frame. This is more common with the shift cables than the brakes, but it is possible. At the point where the cable enters the brake ...


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I am currently using a Shimano Tourney TX RD on my old mountain bike that has 8 speed casette, no problem in either shifting response and performance.


3

It is normal - cogs of 1st gear turn slower than that from 2nd and 3rd gear, so are overrun and click into hub housing. You can "silent" it a bit by opening the hub and greasing hub housing, where the cogs work.


3

The short answer is no. The SPD-SL 3 bolt pattern is larger by several centimeters. An SPD shoe has tread to make it easier to walk in the show off-road and a smaller, 2 bolt cleat mounting pattern. The tread would be in the way of mounting the SPD-SL cleat.


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Here's another gear-inch calculator that may be easier to use: http://cycleseven.org/bicycle-gear-inch-calculator Basically, the 52/36 will allow 5% higher top-speed before spinning-out compared to the 50/34. (Many say that your aero-tuck and other factors are more important at those speeds anyway.) But on the hills, you'll find the 36 to be harder to ...


2

Yes, all Shimano 8-speed shifters and rear derailleurs except Dura-Ace are compatible. Road and off road front derailleurs have different cable pull, but since both 600 and Claris are road component series, they are compatible too.



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