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1

Surest way: Measure the screw on the other shifter and get a replacement at any place which sells screws. Use screw glue if you already know the screw comes loose easily.


2

Take a look here http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chainrings.html It looks like the flat series is for single speed or old style 5 or 6 speed non indexed shifting bikes. Suggest you need the SE Plus range http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chainrings/se-plus-chainrings.html which is designed for 7 to 9 speed. It should be narrower than what you have, ...


1

Does the rear brake lever has spongy feel to it or longer throw? If not, you might want to manually rectract the caliper pistons: Remove the wheel. Remove brake pads. Use something with flat non-sharp surface to slightly push both pistons (two white ceramic cylinders behind pads) inside caliper body. I usually use an allen key long arm. Assemble everything ...


2

When you upgrade shifters (provided you have the right compatibility), you're paying for (or trading off between): Lower weight More strength/durability Reliability In the sense that Alivio > Altus, you should be getting some of these. However, if your shifters and what not are in good condition (i.e. good cable runs, shifters in good condition, ...


1

Don't buy that XT groupset for that bike to solve those problems - it wont work. XT is great, but it won't make your bike more comfortable, and it wont make it better off-road. Worse, it wont work for that bike since it has V-brakes, and that groupset has disk brakes. They are not compatible. To make it better off-road you need (in this order) better ...


1

From the picture, and what you describe, the tire is wider than the rim. This means that if you like to run the brake shoes close the rim that you'll be unable to remove the tire without having to find some way to "lengthen" the cable. There are three common options that I know of: A release lever on the brakes. It appears that you have one. I think that ...


0

Shimano doesn't make parts available for repairs. If you're under warranty, you could ask your LBS to have it swapped out for a new/refurb. Your LBS might also have a used or like-new in their parts bin. Otherwise, what most people do is to step up and buy a new shifter/brifter. The prices are such that it makes sense to buy above Sora and to get a Tiagra ...


0

Check your cable. You should have full length housing. The housing should be compressionless. These hubs are accurate solid performers but are VERY susceptible to small maladjustments in the cable.


1

For the 5800, short cage can only take 28t but I wonder this too after seeing this.


0

Sounds like your shifter is jammed. You might be able to repair it, but I'd just get a new one. To confirm this diagnosis, remove the cable. If you still can't move the shifter, then you know it's bad. And next time, don't leave your bike out all winter.


0

The derailleur has a spring pulling it against the cable because the cable can only pull, not push. Is that spring intact? If not, it's probably best to replace the derailleur.


0

When downshifting you are increasing the tension of the cable and moving the chain to the gears with more teeth. You've said there is no friction along the cable path and that the derailleur can move freely, so if you can't increase tension, I would say it's the shifter.


1

When you do drive train swaps, you need to check the chain length, and the capacities and limits stated on the front and rear derailleur (look at their data sheets). 1) Check the data sheet for your front derailleur. It will specify the sizes of the chainrings and the teeth differences required. Almost surely it will be fine though. You'll have to fidget ...



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