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8

Assuming that you're talking about cleats on your shoes, there are three main attachment systems. Left: 2-bolt, Middle: 2 or 3 bolt, Right: 3 bolt. Notice how the one on the left has a chunkier sole. The two-bolt option is used for SPD which are popular with MTB, commuting and touring cyclists. I use 2-bolt SPD shoes on my audax bike because I'm able to ...


7

It is a machine used for heating the shoes so that they can be formed to your feet. the shoes are heated. You then put them on your feet and they use a vacuum bag around the shoe to compress it against your foot so it gets the proper shape. Here's an article that explains it. I've had something similar done for hockey skates, although without the vacuum, and ...


6

According to French wikipedia, automatic pedals seem to be clipless pedals. A wide range of manufacturers make waterproof shoe covers (also known as overshoes or booties), for use with both clipless pedal systems as well as your usual set of sneakers (be sure to check out the particular model to see if they're compatible. One designed solely for clipless ...


6

If odor is your main concern, I can highly recommend the so-called boot bananas. You put them in your shoes whenever you are not using them, and it slowly kills all odors. I have a pair of boot-bananas for a year now, and I am very enthousiastic about it, all odors are gone since I use them. It did not use them for my cycling shoes though (they don't smell ...


5

Yes there are lots of different options with pedals (it's a bit easier with shoes), but they can be summarised quite briefly. Types of pedals: Flat - a standard pedal on many bikes Flat pedal with toe clips. So you can still use any shoe, but the toe clip holds your shoe in place on the pedal. "Clipless" pedals - where both pedal and shoe have a some kind ...


5

For a ready made part, see Fly Pedals. This is essentially just a metal platform, which you bolt cleats onto, then clip them into your pedals. They are threaded with holes for 2-bolt or 3-bolt cleats, so should work with most mountain bike or road bike clipless pedals (including SPD-SL). Note these are not yet available, but you can pre-order them from the ...


5

Simple, yet powerful solution - pour max 1 teaspoon of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda, found in any store) into the shoes before or after wearing them. It will kill the bacteria and any other "stuff" that produces bad smell. It has no negative effects on skin whatsoever, except when applying it to freshly shaven skin - as it may cause inflammation of the ...


5

Shimano make several models of pedals with SPD one side, and flat on the other. So they can be used with SPD shoes or normal shoes. Options include: PD-A530 These are designed for road/touring bikes, so are fairly slim, with a small metal platform. (Not to be confused with the PD-A520, which are one-sided SPD pedals, without a flat platform). Personally ...


4

I try to not wash cycle shoes. I have found a boot/shoe dryer to be effective with odor. The old style without a fan seems to work better for shoes. Leave the dryer in for a day and cook that bacteria. No I don't have medical information the dryer gets hot enough to kill bacteria but it seems to work. It gets rid of the odor and the next time they ...


4

Soaking them in a bucket of very diluted bleach water (~1 cap in a 5 gallon bucket) overnight should help with the odor. As far as drying, either grab a fan, or there are a lot of commercial solutions available. They're mostly marketed for winter/ski boots, but they'll obviously work for any type of wet shoe.


4

Five Ten Freerider VXi Elements - 398 gram Five Ten Freerider - 399 gram Giro Jacket - 416 gram Shimano AM41 - 420 gram Teva Links - 440 gram 661 Filter - 680 Gram So basically, all the available (excluding high-top shoes) flat pedal shoes weigh the same. You could theoretically shave 1 gram by switching to the Freerider VXi Elements, but that would ...


3

Unless you plan to do a lot of sprinting up muddy hills to jump barriers, the studs are just extra weight that makes annoying noises when you're walking around. SPD is great for touring since you can easily walk around in the shoes, the studs detract from that without adding much benefit. You can get small "set screws" to fill the holes where the studs ...


3

If you don't find any factory made component, you can always get down the do-it-yourself route. Here is a link to set of instructions on how to make ones for Shimano PD 520/540: http://www.instructables.com/id/Pedal-platforms-for-Shimano-PD-520540/ The basic idea of it is to get hold of an extra pair of cleats, affix them with appropriate bolts to a ...


3

I rode a couple winters as a bike messenger in the northeastern US, and this is a classic messenger trick for the worst cold wet days. While your feet may still become somewhat wet, at least they will be warm and wet. I liked wearing a thin sock on the inside, the plastic bag, another pair of socks, then shoes. This is not really a dry-day technique. Then, ...


2

There likely isn't much difference in performance. Some people do find that SPD cleats lead to "hot spots" (painful spots) on the balls of the feet; that's why I went to SPD-SLs. You might find a difference in platform height; IIRC the height of the SPD cleats + pedals is shorter than the SPD-SL. You'd want to adjust your seat height to deal with that.


2

I have used this technique in emergencies while hiking, but never thought of deliberately using it day-to-day. When the weather unexpectedly turns foul (and this is before I had the money to buy quality waterproof hiking shoes), my feet would soak. So I would takeout a thick plastic bag from the backpack. Put dry socks on. Put the plastic bag over them, ...


2

To fix your existing shoes, I would either move where the strap attaches to the "tongue" of the shoe or where the buckle is fixed to the side of the shoe. The straps are designed to be replaceable ( as well as the buckles ). I would take a closer look at your shoes, many Shimano models have small screws that fasten the buckle to the shoe so it can be ...


2

My answer is going to be a non-answer in the sense that shoe sizes are not really the same even among most types of shoes. As an example, when I buy shoes, I normally buy (in US sizes) 12.5 wide /13 in New Balance (which feels fine), 13 in Nike (which feels fine or slightly tight), 13 in Adidas (which typically feel tight), something bigger for boots ...


1

I would suggest removing them. Studs are only useful for steep hike a bike scenarios on loose dirt or clay (something that the spikes can bite). These were really intended for XC race situations, where some climbs are too steep to ride so you need to throw the XC bike on your shoulder and run like you stole it! In all the tours I have never done, ...


1

It's almost certainly the shoes but exactly what is a really variable question. New shoe problems tend to fit into the following: 1, Does the shoe fit properly (length and width)? Seems the answer is no as you got a size too big which means your foot will move a bit. This can be mitigated with the correct insole and you can even get mouldable ones which you ...


1

If you're using SPD-SL, cleat covers or insertable seem to be the only "nice" ways to go. [I use Look, so I'm in a similar boat.] However, if you switch to SPD (which requires different pedals), there are plenty of shoes (and sandals) which have recessed cleats so you can walk around without damaging anything and wear all day without problems. And a lot of ...


1

I use some of these if I'm touring and want to travel light, I put them in my bag but I reckon they could slip in to a jersey pocket, I'll try after work today. I've used cleat covers before and, though they protect the cleat, didn't feel they were a proper solution - you still end up walking weirdly because the only contact point is the cleat.


1

Another vote for the PD-A530. In my case I have these on the hybrid and PD-A520's on the Cannondale road bike. Both pairs are adjusted so that they feel the same so the muscle memory on both bikes is the same. In a panic stop, I don't want to have to remember which bike I am on to get out of it. Tom


1

Start by replacing the insoles. Typically this is what smells the most in old bike shoes. After that you can also clean the shoe itself following any one of the many suggested methods outlined in this thread. But be sure to remove you nice new insoles first before cleaning the shoe itself. Also try to thoroughly dry the shoe as fast as possible, leaving ...


1

Dettol Liquid contains Chloroxylenol. It kills bacteria and provides protection against germs which can cause infection and illness. Dettol kills 99.9% of bacteria, such as E.coli and Influenza virus (H1N1). Always read the label. Serious, the smell is caused by bacteria and your mission is to kill them! Put hot water, plenty of Dettol and your ...


1

Perhaps the shoes are the right length, but too wide for your feet. You could wear extra socks so you wouldn't have to tighten them so much, but that would probably make them too warm. Maybe an extra insole would make them a little tighter without making them much warmer, as there isn't much airflow through the sole anyway.


1

Measure to make sure they are long enough. If they are too long, screw a nut on then cut it with a metal saw at the right length. Use a file to make it smooth then unscrew the nut to make sure the threads are nice and clean.


1

One word: Sugru. It's a great self-curing plastic that allows you to "hack" your shoes in all sorts of ways. You can knead in a bit of it to make sure the tightest buckle position is blocked. You can use it to add a lip to the release to make it easier to grab. You can use it to repair your shoes. Next to ShoeGoo and gaffer's tape, it's the Best Thing in ...


1

For dry feet I have been using Taiga Dry-foot gaiters for years now. They are about $50 US. I just replaced the pair I had been abusing for about three years. They cover the shoe but are open at the bottom so whether you clip in or not you are in business. Wash them as you would any Gore-Tex product, that is with the special detergent. They don't need ...


1

If you're really that concerned, get a roll of 3M "copter tape" and cut it to the same size as the cleat. Given the cleat should never move, the most you should get is a bit of marking where the cleat sits which you'll never see as the cleat should never move (and it's helpful when you're replacing cleats)



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