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There are two things I generally do to help eliminate most of the twist. When tightening spokes, get in the habit of slightly overturning and then turning back. (i.e. If I want to tighten a spoke 1/2 turn, I'll do 3/4 and 1/4 back. ) At regular intervals once the wheel is "close", take the wheel out of the stand and place the wheel vertically on a soft ...


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Low tube pressure and similar dips, I have had it, and it caused cut, sometimes double cut, when hitting a curb or other crush on the pneumatic. Those made the air in the tube go out really fast. I changed rim tape and now keep pressure high, i e pump the wheel more often.


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I would recommend replacing rim tape with a modern plastic one. You could inspect the existing cloth one, but then you would need to remove it to inspect the spoke ends. Cloth tapes often don't survive removal. When the tape is off, inspect the spoke ends and the nipples. If one is sharp, use emery paper to remove the burr. Do not use a file: a single ...


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Replacing a spoke is easy. Truing the wheel (that is, getting it straight) is harder - but it's a skill worth learning. If you want to learn, buy a new spoke and a spoke wrench; if you're pressed for time, have the shop fix it. Either way, there's no need to replace the wheel.


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You don't need a new wheel, and the repair is cheap if you have the correct tools. Here's a guide if you want to try it yourself, or I reckon it would cost 0.5 - 1hr labour at a bike shop (plus the price of a single spoke). edit - just read that it's the front wheel, which makes things easier still. No need to remove any cassettes!



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