Hot answers tagged

10

I don't like to be the bearer of bad news, but I've been down this road once or twice. As a hobby, I sometimes pull bike frames out of dumpsters and rebuild them to sell for my cost on Craigslist. I have learned over the years that bicycles, when new, really cost at least $300-400. "Bicycle-Shaped Objects" (BSO's) are sold at stores like Wal-Dart and ...


8

Drivetrain components tend to wear in this order: Chain Rear cassette/sprockets Front chainrings (and the teeth on your derailleur's jockey wheels may last, but the bearings may not) The chain is usually the culprit for wearing out the other two. As it wears, the distance between links effectively increases, and the mismatch between the links and teeth ...


7

Its not about higher and lower end bikes, its about the nature of the bikes and the purposes they are used for and probably some history and snobbery too (-: You can pay a truly staggering amount of money for a mountain bike (or a tourer or a recumbent) with a triple chainset and equally you can get something that bears a passing resemblance to a road ...


7

The cable that moves a mechanical derailleur is counteracted by a spring. To the best of my knowledge the "leave it on the smallest sprocket" theory suggests that the spring is sitting with the least amount of tension on it. The same is true for the cables. Because they have the least tension they are more likely to maintain adjustment over periods of ...


6

The key property is hardness. For uniform materials (like cogs), hardness directly affects wear resistance. The harder the metal the longer it will last. Some digging around wikipedia suggests that typical Brinell hardness values are: pure aluminium 15HB, 6061-T6 aluminium (heat treated) 95 HB mild steel 120HB, 4130 CroMo steel 183-217 HB (90-96 ...


5

Before answering your question I will add the caveat that without seeing your problem and without knowing the exact spec of the bike, this 'quote' could be wrong. For one, you might not have replaceable chainrings. But, assuming you do have replaceable chainrings the cost would be somewhere around 30-35$ (10$ labor, 20-25$ for chainring) depending on the ...


5

I've heard different rules of thumb (rule of thumbs?) about how much use you can get, and remember none of them. What I do know is that not lubeing a chain often enough--actually, cleaning and lubeing--will cause it to wear such that it 'stretches'. Not stretch like taffy, but gain overall length due to the pins and bushings in the links wearing down, ...


5

50/34 with and 11/32 on the rear is going to be very spinny. For me - the range is too wide and the gaps between the gears too big. But - this depends on the kind of riding you will be doing. If you are riding the very steepest of mountains - than the 34/32 combination might be what you are looking for. Purely for fast road work - that's too wide a ...


4

The answer to your main question is cadence, i.e. the rate at which you rotate the pedals. Most cyclists naturally tend towards a narrow range of cadences where we feel most comfortable. We also have different comfort levels / capabilities for power output. To spin comfortably up a hill (at your preferred cadence and effort level) you'll need to find a ...


4

I doubt many people would change cassette based on occasion, but I suppose it is possible - it isn't too onerous a task to swap a cassette out. But certainly I (and I suspect others too) will fit a cassette once and it will stay on the wheel for its lifetime. I think the key thing with a cassette choice is basically how close (in terms of number of teeth) ...


3

You could adjust the other end instead, so long as the cassette locknut is already tight against the cone (if it isn't, take the cassette off and do that first). http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html: "For cassette hubs, or conventional rear hubs that I want to adjust without removing the freewheel, I use a thin 15 mm wrench and the two 17's. To ...


3

Primarily, the range of your drivetrain affects your fastest and slowest speeds (for a given cadence). Often there is no perfect range and selection of gearing will normally involve some compromise (Either losing top end speed or making climbs difficult). The importance of the gear range of your drivetrain therefore varies with your usage scenario, and ...


3

First, to remove a cassette freehub does require a specific tool. The Park Tool version is called the FR-5. There is no need for more than one kind of grease. Use any light bearing grease like the Park Poly Lube 1000. There is a good set of instructions here on how to do the rebuild. From Park Tool's repair help site: Hub Overhaul and Adjustment ...


3

In short: it depends. Chainrings tend to be much more compatible across gear counts than anything else in the drivetrain. It amounts to "does the chain fit", and when you're talking 8/9 speed the chain width is the same anyway, so yes, that will work. The real question is whether the bolt pattern is compatible between the two, because that's where the real ...


3

If your chain was measured and is worn, then by all means replace it. You are going to cause more wear to your bike using a worn chain than having slightly worn sprockets. A worn chain causes uneven wear on the teeth of your chainrings and cassette cogs, eventually this can cause issues with shifting and 'chain suck'. The new chain you selected looks ...


3

Admittedlty I've never done it before but changing a front chain ring should be pretty easy to do. You can pick up a new or second hand one on your favourite internet listing/auction site, then it should just be a case of disengaging the chain and undoing the bolts that attach the rings. Or am I missing something?


3

How about a Schlumf drive? The Schlumpf drive is an ultra thin planetary gearing system located at the right end of the bottom bracket, between bottom bracket and right crankarm. Installation of a Schlumpf drive hardly changes [either the] position of the chain nor position of the crankarms. They're probably expensive, but I don't think they have a ...


3

Rusty sprockets aren't typically going to be an issue. As long as the teeth aren't too worn in, then the cogs themselves will be fine. However, if the cogset (likely a freewheel) itself is having difficulty rotating, it's likely the grease in the ratcheting mechanism has seized up, or the pawls are broken or faulty. The internals of the freewheel might ...


3

You can use whatever cranksets you like and have available. But tandems need either an eccentric bottom bracket on the front, OR a chain tensioner in order to set the tension on the link/timimg chain. 1.1. If you are only pootling around on the flat then perhaps the loss of the front chainring is acceptable. But any hills or a good stiff headwind and ...


3

The difference is simply in the number of teeth on the chainring, and therefore the distance that the chain will travel when you turn the crank. With the standard crank you will be pushing the chain further, and therefore given the same cassette, the standard chainring will provide longer gearing than a compact, and require more power to turn. There are ...


2

I have bent the teeth on a front chainring before by accidentally dropping the bike on the ground and it hit a rock just on the end of a tooth. I was able to bend it back slowly using a pair of pliers, but I would recommend getting the whole ring replaced. I am unsure as to the price these days, but the thing you need to know when ordering is the BCD - ...


2

I guess that the spring isn't hold the sprocket well. The best is to bring the bike to shop to repair it. But if you want to repair it all alone, first get your rear wheel off, get the sprocket off and check the 3 teeth inside the sprocket - they have to be perfect half-circles. If they aren't, you should replace it. The spring must touch itself on its' ...


2

Just about any new bike you ever purchase will need a good tune up after the first 100 miles, not unlike a lot of cars or motorcycles. It's perfectly normal for most of the parts, especially parts under tension like brakes and cables, to settle and loosen a bit the first few times you ride the bike. It's likely that the cable for the rear shifter has ...


2

You should only need to replace the sprocket, nothing else. If you put on a smaller sprocket to get higher gearing/slower pedalling you need a smaller sprocket, not a larger one. You may need to remove a chain link. Those parts should be standard, the same as on an adult bike, and any bike shop should be able to make the switch. Coaster brakes are common in ...


2

Parts need a break in time to stretch, flex, and do what they do before they kind of settle in. When I worked at a bikeshop, we told our customers to come in after a month or 2 so that we could go through and get everything tuned up to where it should be after the break in period. Not only is your situation normal, most bike shops WANT you to bring it back ...


2

I'm Ryan with Gates Carbon Drive. The fix is not difficult, but there are a couple of things that I would recommend. Simply removing the 4 chainring bolts is not the best course of action. I would recommend removing the rear wheel from the dropout. If you are unsure about this, we have put together a video here: ...


2

Freewheels do require lubrication sometimes. I suspect that if you drip some oil (I've used air tool oil, which is pretty light, but anything will be OK) in there with the bike tilted so the is freewheel up the pawls with become unstuck and it will work fine. In my experience it won't take much oil or time, it should free right up if lubrication actually ...


2

It's definitely possible to do #1, although you need to match the bolt pattern and bolt circle diameter (BCD). That's a common change for many cyclists. If you're running both chains on the right hand side standard cranksets are all you need (this is typically why people do that) Chainline is important, and typically you would put both idler chainrings on ...


1

In order to remove the cassette you will need a cassette removal socket/tool. The nut you are trying to reach is the hub bearing lock nut. If there is no hub play it should not be wrenched on. The tool/socket can be purchased from Park Tools or at any bike shop.



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible