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9

It's much better to open the chain. Derailleurs are not really designed to be opened repeatedly, and doing so inexpertly can potentially ruin the derailleur. Chains might have either a lock link or a master link of some kind, find that open the chain and then thread the chain through the derailleur. If the chain does not have one of these links, you will ...


7

I'm no racer so I'm probably speaking from a very different point of view than you were interested in. I have used Sram 9-speed chains for years on my touring/commuting bicycles. I have used the 971, 981, and 991 and haven't been able to see any difference in performance or longevity, either. With my wet-weather commuting here in the Seattle area where it's ...


7

Put link into chain, hold chain on either side, use thumbs to hold snaplock over link. Gently pull chain using thumbs as fulcrums...this will put pressure on the pins forcing them just a tiny bit inward. Snaplock should slide over. (Think of it kind of like bending but not breaking a pencil...both hands on pencil (chain), thumbs next to each other, gentle ...


6

While price is not the defining factor, there is no doubt that it is a key indicator of quality. List of Groupsets Below is a list of the three largest manufacturer's groupsets for Road and MTB applications. Each manufacturer's offering is arranged in descending price/quality. The number of sprockets of the cassette in each groupset is shown in ...


6

Yep, I've been using such setup for an year now, on my MTB (2x10). See the "Technologies" tab on SRAM's page for X9 RD Type 2. The equivalent technology by Shimano is called Shadow+ (note the +). When purchasing an RD, on can notice, that the price difference between having or not having the relevant technology is relatively small compared to the price of ...


5

If you are talking about the things that look like thin, wide plastic washers that go on the outer part of both sides of the bottom bracket, they are called bearing seals. Assuming that you are saying that the bearing seals were not installed, then I would absolutely remove the cranks and install them. They are designed to keep most of the road gunk out of ...


5

Sram apex is a double chainring crankset which uses a GXP (aka Giga-X-Pipe) bottom bracket which is an external bearing bottom bracket. I think External Bearing or Outboard bottom bracket are both commonly accepted terms, however there are several different incompatible types of external bottom brackets such as hollowtech, GXP, and Ultra Tourque.


4

Why do you wear chainrings quickly? Cross Chaining - If you tend to be in the big ring on the back and the big ring on the front at the same time, you're probably doing it wrong. Same with running the small ring on the front with the small ring on the back. This can cause uneven wear on the front chainrings due to the awkward angles the chain must bend. ...


4

If your chain has a powerlink, you can disconnect it pretty easily. Otherwise, it is pretty straightforward to open up the cage and slip the chain out. It shouldn't damage it (as front derailleurs are pretty simple mechanisms).


4

I don't know if you're still having this problem, but this could be useful for others, so I'll go ahead and answer it. To be honest I wouldn't bother trying to fix a gear indicator, especially a front one. It's not difficult to remember which chainring you're in and opening up the shifter is definitely going to invite problems for inexperienced mechanics. ...


4

Your derailleur cable is probably stretched. It happens normally on newer bikes. Take it to your local bike shop and it'll just take them a minute to fix it. They'll probably even do it for free to get your future business.


4

I've not done the maths, but angular momentum is proportional to the radius of the circle. So those big wheels benefit a lot from mass reduction, but the relatively small turn around your chainring much less so. Overall I'd think that the chain mass can largely be considered just another part - if it's much cheaper per gram to save weight there than your ...


4

Note: this is mostly based on my personal experience. Its an incredibly subjective subject, so there is no right answer. Keep in mind that in reality one level up or down will be completely unnoticeable performance difference to most riders. XT is considered the "Sweet spot" for performance, weight and durability. Probably X9 in the SRAM range. ...


4

If you want to upgrade gradually you need to follow the compatibility of the groupsets. If your Tiagra groupset is the 4600 series of 2012, the 10 speed components should be compatible with other Shimano 10 speed road components, so you can use Dura Ace 7800 and 7900, Ultegra 6600 and 6700, and "105" 5600 and 5700. The amount of cable pull per gear is ...


4

Campagnolo wheels are available with both Shimano/SRAM and Campagnolo cassette compatible freewheel bodies. Ask which cassette your friend has and if they have Campagnolo, you can get the correct freehub body as a spare part. SRAM/Shimano and Campagnolo cassettes have slightly different cog spacing. You can mix them, but the derailleur adjustment will be ...


3

I took a quick look at the Truvativ warranty information and the warranty is void if the BB is not installed properly. Since it's not currently installed properly if anything happens to it then you've got no warranty technically.


3

Crack open the shifter. There are four screws holding it together. Be careful to not displace the springs. If you do move the main one, it is meant to be attached over the cable router and within a small hole in the white plastic near the centre. As for correcting your perceived problem. In general there is a white strip with sprockets. Move the white ...


3

This seems like an example of 'if it's broke, don't fix it'... I understand how it might be bothersome or annoying, but modern shifters such as these are relatively complex and can be easily 'messed-up'. That said, the best solution I could find is the manufacturer's maintenance manuals, which is somewhat lacking. Unfortunately I don't think there are many ...


3

If your rear derailleur is in the 28t cog, there is only one click available, because shifting to the next (non-existent) cog would put your chain in your wheel. Because of the way the Double Tap levers work, the first click will release to the next gear down, either 27t or 26t depending on your cassette. There is nothing to fix. This is proper behavior ...


3

I've only ever ridden bikes with shimano road bike parts. Shimano's road lines are, in terms of decreasing value: dura ace ultegra 105 tiagra sora 2300 "non-series" Having spent an inordinate amount of time riding a bike with a sora group, I can attest for its quality. A lot of people on bike forums say you need a 105 or higher to get a decent ride ...


3

It is possible, as long as you use the SRAM Red Black Edition 2011 or earlier. The new 2012 Exogram SRAM Red requires a different front derailleur design, and while it will physically bolt up, it won't shift well at all. Any other SRAM compact (110 BCD) chain ring will work fine.


3

10 speed SRAM Powerlinks require a special tool to undo and, unlike their 9speed counterparts, are not supposed to be reused. That said, you can use a pair of needle nosed pliers in a pinch, and the Powerlink can be reassembled after breaking it if you want to take the (relatively small) risk. However, if both derailleurs have screws as opposed to rivets, ...


3

Yes, if you have a removable screw at the back of the front derailleur, you can remove it, spread the derailleur cage, and slip the chain through. Do it gently, and there is enough spring resistance in the steel to return to it s proper shape.


3

SRAM GXP bottom brackets can be user serviced, but it is usually unnecessary. To service your BB bearings, first remove the crank arms. Then place your thumb in the BB spindle hole, and bend the joint enough that your knuckle makes firm contact around the entire ring surface of the spindle hole. Pull outward using fairly firm pressure, and if necessary, ...


3

SRAM acquired Sachs in 2000. The main visible difference between the (Fichtel &) Sachs Torpedo 3 hub and the SRAM T3 is that the SRAM T3 comes in an aluminium body, whereas the Sachs Torpedo 3 comes in a chrome plated steel body and the brake design has been changed (but is compatible). There appearantly was a successor model to the Sachs Torpedo 3 ...


3

SRAM XX1 is their new single chain ring setup. Very expensive and I have not even tried a demo, very wide range on the rear 11 speed cassette (10 x 42) and lots of chainrings available for the front. My understanding is that the chainrings are designed to 'hold' the chain on. The chainring teeth are designed (wider and taller) to have a better grab of the ...


3

Because you're cross-chaining -- creating a bad chain angle. With any dual derailer bike the chain angle is straighter if you use big front cogs with small rear cogs and vice-versa. And with bikes with lots of rear cogs the chain angle can get bad enough to cause this situation. Basically you need to learn to avoid cog combos that create a bad chain ...


3

I did something similar last year but waited until I had all the components before assembly. If you are patient and you buy only when you think the price is the best you've seen there are deals out there. It was time consuming (18 months) but the savings can be worth it. I got an Ultegra groupset for about $600 one component at a time. With the release of ...


3

You should only hear 6 clicks: 1->2 , 2->3, 3->4, 4->5, 5->6, 6->7 when shifting up on a 7 speed system, and reverse the arrows when shifting down. If you can't shift through all the gears, check that the derailleur is not bent, you have adequate cable tension, the low and high limits are set correctly (these should be a set once and forget it thing) and ...



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