Hot answers tagged

17

The best method for handling exterior frame rust depends on how much time you'd like to invest. The difference comes down to what you use to complete the two basic steps: Remove the rust Good: Sandpaper - Cheap, but wont remove all the rust, and may leave debris. Better: Steel Wool - Will remove most of the rust, but may leave steel wool fragments, which ...


16

Steel is still very common for relatively expensive "touring" bikes (bikes intended for long distances carrying panniers). The slight additional weight of a steel frame over aluminum (well less than 10 pounds in most cases) is inconsequential when you have 40-100 pounds of gear on the bike, the bike is more durable, and the flexibility of a steel bike is ...


16

Some things differ if you are looking at a new or a used frame, but here are some suggestions: First, when you say you are looking for a steel frame, what you probably mean is a ChroMoly Steel alloy frame. This would be a frame made from tubes where chromium and molybdenum were added as the steel was refined. Frequently you will see a sticker on the tube ...


12

A few things that you can look for, some already mentioned in other answers: Tubing, as other have mentioned, higher quality frames are made of higher quality tubing. High quality tubing will often be a tube set from a "name brand" and have the appropriate stickers (e.g. Reynolds 531). High quality tubing is typically double, or even triple butted - i.e. ...


11

I have toured a bit, both on steel and aluminum. I have also read a lot about the classic pros and cons perfectly explained by DanielRHicks. So, based on study and personal experience, I would tell the overal quality and specificity of the bike is much more important than the material itself, for these reasons: Weight difference is irrelevant since you ...


11

This is actually a matter of the force multiplication that each chainring provides, and the size/mass of each chainring. Force difference Let's propose, only for a moment that you had a chainring as big that the radius of it is almost the same as the crank length. If the rider stood to pedal while using that chainring (and using simple platform pedals). ...


9

Steel makes for a heavier rim; the modern-box section design works well for taking advantage of aluminum's lower density. Furthermore, since steel will rust, the rims are typically chrome-plated. The chrome plating makes rim brakes almost useless in the wet, which is exacerbated by the poor pads used on most of the classic bikes that shipped with steel ...


8

These hitches don't work very well. They don't grab tightly enough, so they can twist around the bar and bump in to the wheel. As they twist they will take off the paint. They also require a lot of turns to attach and remove. I had two trailers with this kind of hitch, and 3 bikes to pull with. I bought this Burley flex connector for each trailer: I used ...


8

As a cyclist who had a hard time getting comfortable on road geometry with drop handlebars, I will recommend that you ride as many different bikes as possible for a long time before you consider dropping money on a "custom" bike. Considering frame material and construction, geometry quirks, wheel sizes, brake types, drivetrain compatibility, tire clearance, ...


7

A trailer with a 100# capacity fully loaded over the axle is unlikely to cause significant damage to your bicycle frame--even using the attachment device shown for the Rhode Gear trailer, above. The "tongue weight" of such a trailer would probably be in the twenty-to-thirty pound range. Just don't load this trailer--or any trailer--with all of the weight ...


7

Buying parts alone is sadly a rather expensive way to get a bike and I doubt anyone would be able to tell you if it's worth it to you. That said, I'd be very tempted. I like old bikes and it's better they get rebuilt and used than end up in landfill. You should spec up the components you want/need and compare the price with a new one of similar quality and ...


6

The manufacturer recommends this product for protecting a painted surface and not used on bare metal. Lacquer by its nature (at least the types still available in the U.S.) provides a beautiful finish but not very good at chip resistance. It is typically applied in multiple layers with sanding between coats. Take this to mean very time consuming and tedious. ...


6

Good question! There are a couple important reasons for the differing materials: Wear: Steel lasts longer than aluminum, plain and simple. So why not use steel on all the rings? The larger rings have ramps on the sides that facilitate shifting and cannot be flipped as the ring wears. The granny ring can, therefore it can last a lot longer. Flexion/Bending: ...


6

To identify a frame firstly see if a magnet sticks, if it does it's steel, if not it's carbon, aluminium alloy or titanium alloy. If not steel look down the seat tube if it's metallic inside it could be aliminium or titanium if black and plastic looking, carbon. Tap the frame with a screw driver, aluminium and titanium will have a definite metallic 'tink' ...


6

I'm answering my own question because I took a combination of the steps above, plus some other steps. I took steps to make getting it back in event of theft more likely: registered the bike with the Chicago police: https://portal.chicagopolice.org/portal/page/portal/ClearPath/Online%20Services/Bike%20Registration I plan to register it with ...


6

It's hard to tell from the photo ( is that large vertical streak said crack? ), but if your frame is cracked, don't use it. Riding on a cracked frame is risky as it could result in a catastrophic failure / injury / death. It looks like that's probably a steel frame, so find a local frame builder ( not your buddy who's handy with a welder ), and depending on ...


6

Generally you'd take the fender off a bike, put it on an anvil, find the right place on the horn of the anvil that matches the radius of the curve, and bang out the ding. Then you'd buff out any scratches or rechrome it. (this anvil's horn is upward curving, you'd want one with a downward curve that matches your fender angle more). You don't need a big ...


5

The difference is usually in the length of the threaded insert that goes in the frame, and that the caliper bolt threads into. The inserts are available separately, and must be sized correctly for the frame. There may be some older calipers where the bolt itself is too long, but a Ti/Carbon frame sounds pretty new for that. They come in 16mm and 22mm ...


5

If you want the best for you in a steel frame, look into local framebuilders. There are newer tubesets by Columbus and True Temper that individual builders can use to make awesome frames. Furthermore, they are competitive with aluminum frames (yes they weigh more, but the difference is far less than how overweight 'I' am...ymmv). Here in the Seattle area ...


5

How much unusual stress are you talking about? The weight of the bike all on one leg of the fork? Or the weight of a really large person leaning back against the fork? If it's just the weight of the bike leaning "wrong" on the fork, I wouldn't worry about it. That fork leg is built to handle a lot more stress than that in normal riding. If it's worrying ...


5

Others have answered the second part "what are the differences..." Here's an answer for the first part "why not many at the dump" In in my city 2015 light grade clean steel is worth $0.02/kg. Aluminium extrusion is worth $1.83/kg. Brass like nipples is $3-$4/kg and stainless steel is about $0.90/kg. Recycling metal pays money, but I'm not going to ...


5

All steel frames of any age get a few dings from serious use. The failure point for steel frames is usually the highest stress points: the joins. That is why we used to have fancy tubing sets likes Reynolds 351 double butted, and I notice that your frame does too. So, if the dent is away from the joins I say the frame is ok for general use. Steel is quite ...


4

Steel has been the standard for cheap bikes for a very long time. Weight is a prime factor, as noted above. In addition, steel rusts.... If you go to someplace where lots of bikes are parked outside for any length of time, like the university where I work, you can pick out the cheap bikes instantly by the nasty rust that starts forming with great speed. ...


4

sillyyak is right. The weight of wheels makes a big difference. I've had (in the distant past) scary moments when not able to stop as fast as I'd like when braking on steel when it is wet. I notice a huge improvement in stopping in the rain on aluminum. On bike forums ( http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-449632.html ) everyone says aluminum is ...


4

Well, Al will be lighter, and I think I read somewhere that steel rims get really slick when wet (this is assuming that you are using rim brakes).


4

Yes, you can. You just need to get the right size of loose ceramic ball bearings as that's what shimano wheels use. They are available from various vendors, like here for instance. You didn't ask this, but I'll answer it for you anyway: would I recommend replacing the bearings on a pair of WH-R550's with ceramic bearings? No, and neither would many others. ...


4

If by "steerer" you mean the top tube that turns in the bearings, it would be very bad for that to be bent, since it would seriously muck up the bearings, and ever getting it straight enough to NOT muck up the bearings would be unlikely. Apart from the bearings, with something like a conventional steel fork the twin concerns are fractures in the steel and ...


4

I've done a conversion on an old steel Schwinn, and these look similar. I'm not sure how in-depth you want to go, but at the most basic level you only have to worry about two issues: Tire clearance Brake clearance Tire Clearance The most popular size of cyclocross tire is 700x32. You may find that a knobby cyclocross tire will fit between your fork, but ...


4

The problem I had was getting the ammonia to the corrosion. I hung the bike upside down by both tires so the seat post was vertical. You can either remove the bottom bracket or as I did the bottle cage screw and fill the seat post with straight ammonia. If possible plug the hole so the ammonia doesn't evaporate. I let it hang for 2 days. I then laid the bike ...



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