Hot answers tagged stem
12
You actually need something sticking up above the top of your steer tube. It can be either a spacer or the stem itself. This is because the top cap squeezing down onto the stem/spacer stack is what keeps the headset bearings snugly in their cups. If the top cap is flush with the steer tube, there will be play in the headset which is bad.
Park Tools has a ...
11
A shorter stem does make your steering quicker, it also enables you to sit further upright and gives more leverage on the handlebar.
The longer stem gets you more forward and in a better position for climbing but I think it makes low speed steering awkward and is uncomfortable for long stretches on the bike.
I went from some ungodly long stem (100+mm) with ...
8
It sounds as though you are talking about what Sheldon Brown term "reach", which is
normally measured center-to-center along the direction of the extension
So this does not take into account the angle of the stem, which could reduce the length forward that the handlebars extend by a small amount if they are on a large angle up or down.
7
No, the clamp that mounts to the steerer is not a standard height. There will be slight differences in the stack height of the clamp itself between different makes and models of stems that can typically be accommodated for with addition or subtraction of a small number of spacers, or the difference may be so slight that you don't have to change your spacers ...
7
I'm going to recommend that you NOT do this.
There were in the past manufacturers of 1" steerer suspension forks - though I'm not certain that they're are still sold. It is important to note that bicycle frames built to accept solid steel forks have different geometry than those built for suspension forks. The frame is designed for a fork that doesn't have ...
7
Measure the handlebar itself, while unmounted from the bike, at the center most point of the bar. Use a digital or vernier scale caliper.
The bar from the 2009 Bianchi Cortina is a 25.4mm MTB handlebar, with about 2 inches of rise. I expect yours will be as well. Do not use a 26mm bar, although you can likely mount it on the stem, because the installation ...
6
That's scary, you shouldn't be able to do that. It sounds as though you can straighten it easily too. If you straddle the front wheel facing backwards can you twist the bars in the fork easily?
If so, definitely tighten it up. Firmly. You should not be able to move that!
Who put the bike together? If it's new, take it back and talk to the owner of the ...
4
Assuming the stem was chosen by the manufacturer, it's required torque as printed on the stem should be within the ability of the fork steerer to support.
If the stem says,"Max Torque 10Nm" as opposed to just "10Nm" then start with a lower setting around 6Nm and work up slowly until the stem clamp will not slip on the steerer. If only the number is ...
4
I measured five quill stems that I have, three steel and two aluminum. The overall lengths vary from 5 1/2 to 6 1/4". The minimum insertion length was 2.5 to 3.0 inches. There was not a consistant ratio of length to minimum insertion. It is possible that the insertion length increased on newer bikes due to safety/liability concerns. If you haven't got at ...
3
I generally wipe whatever greasy or oily rag I have lying around at the shop on any uncoated steer tubes as a habit. We're in a fairly dry area so it's not of great importance. If I was in a wet area I'd use a product called FrameSaver.
There is no concern with slippage if the steer tube is greasy.
3
Changing from 50 to 65 (or the opposite) is definitely noticeable. And depending on your needs, switching may improve your riding.
Switching from 50 to 65 will mean more pressure on the front end. That means better cornering (the front end will not wash out easily) and more stability on the downhill. Some people also mention that it'll improve climbing on ...
3
In the BMX world, they use minimum offset or zero offset necks for flatland. The minimum offset options allow you shorter reach without causing problems being backwards. These are some options (the neck/bar combo might not help, but it was shown as examples of options that exist)
In the picture you see a zero offset zero angle bar-neck combo, a minimum ...
3
There should be no difference, other than the quality of the materials and workmanship. One can clamp just as tightly as the other, and both will be apt to produce the same symptoms if the bar is slightly undersized or too flimsy at the mount point. In both cases, if you do have a slightly-undersized bar you want to keep you can grind down the faces of the ...
3
One additional technique that works quite well is to camouflage your bike by making it look UGLY. Add reflective tape bits everywhere. Leave scratches and scuffs or cover them with a clear or mismatched paint. Put a ratty cover on your saddle. Cover brand names wherever possible. Zip tie junk wherever. Soft beeswax mixed with food coloring and rubbed on ...
3
With most older quill stems, there must be a minimum of one inch of the stem (above the binder wedge) inside the frame for safety.
Most stems have marks on them similar to seat posts, yes. The longer the quill, the more of the stem needs to be in the frame. I suggest 25% of the length as a minimum.
The scratch marks on the stem in the photo you linked ...
2
Moving your bars is probably going to move your centre of gravity which is likely to affect the handling of the bike. That said if the only change is that your elbows are more bent it might not make a big difference.
A shorter stem will move your weight backwards that means:
The bike will be more stable and less twitchy.
It will be easier to move your ...
2
I've heard good things about Atomic 22, and they have a quill stem fastener. I haven't used them myself though, so don't take this as a recommendation, and ask around!
The only other vendor I recall hearing about is Pitlock, but like Pinhead I don't think they have a quill product.
Otherwise, the ball-bearing + wax or solder method is probably easiest.
2
At a minimum, the entire "wedge" must be inside the tube. Beyond that, the wedge should be far enough away from the top of the tube that the force of the wedge (which is effectively trying to tear open the tube) will not be close enough to the tube end to split the tube end. I would put this latter distance at maybe 1.5", measured from the top of the wedge ...
2
It would seem to be safe to me as long as the stem is properly installed. The clamp bolts of the stem on the steerer tube in a threadless headset setup are what holds the whole assembly together. Spacers below the stem are required to eliminate vertical play. Spacers above the stem are only required for aesthetics.
The only risk I see is that if the bolts ...
2
If the parts move in spite of the tightening (with extra torque via the cheater and all), that shows there is sizing issue: the part is fully closed, yet the handlebar can still rotate.
You can use metal from a pop/beer can as a shim between the stem and the bar.
Also, perhaps the stem's clamp could be machined to shave a fraction of a millimeter from its ...
1
One great way to increase the reach of your cockpit would be to change your handlebars. With any changes, it is best to do things one at a time and ride on it to get a feel for the new fit. It is cheaper to work with a shop that has components to switch in and out so you can feel the difference before spending loads of cash on new components (this is ...
1
Be aware, if you aren't already, that installing a longer stem will change the steering response - you will need to put in more effort to steer the same amount.
Another way of increasing reach is to change the position of your saddle. If your saddle has rails, then usually you loosen a bolt under the saddle and slide your saddle backwards.
Also, seatposts ...
1
You could try wiping the grease in the stem off with some alcohol or thinners. Even a little bit in there could be a problem.
I'd leave cheater bar alone and try and get them snug without using it. Stems aren't something you want to fail suddenly.
Have you checked the dimensions of the bar and stem?
1
Reading that it forms a "flexible waterproof skin" I would have concerns over how thick this stuff is. The stem/steerer tube interface is pretty tight fitting and unless it is completely cured like a paint, I could see it having durability issues when you try to slide the stem on. I think I would just install the stem dry and get it all tightened down and ...
1
Steering issues aside, I would think that even if you got the reach aspect of the bike to work like this, there would be many other problems with the fit of the bike. Could you even stand safely over the top bar? Could you drop the seat low enough to reach the pedals?
Also, the headtube and stem are usually slightly angled. On a mountain bike or ...
1
Although not very cool, you could get an adjustable stem:
These come on a lot of bikes, e.g. Ridgeback in the UK. You may find that your LBS has a few knocking around in the workshop that might be available to you for less than the RRP. You will be able to use one to find out what does work for you. If you then upgrade to the ideal stem and take the ...
1
There's an outfit that makes a device allowing you to mount conventional friction-shifters up on the handlebars... I'll see if I can find the link. I have been using downtube-mounted friction shifters for many years, second nature to me.
They are very forgiving as to what gears your running... I took my 5-speed freewheel up to an 8-speed freehub without ...
1
You were right first time - the labelling on stem is the max torque that the bolts and stem are rated to withstand. Carbon steerer tubes are typically rated significantly less, and easily crack through crushing by 8Nm. I tighten mine to 4.2Nm, Specialized rates a max 5Nm for their forks. Additionally, the use of a thin layer of carbon grease / carbon ...
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