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20

Here's my solution. Take off wheels, pedals, and handlebars, and place the bike under the bed. Ok, that may not be the right solution, but it might point you in the right direction. If you start taking parts off your bike, you can fit it in a pretty small place. You might even want to consider taking parts off and storing everything but the frame inside ...


18

A small shed seems like the best option if you have space, some insulation inside the shed would help stop condensation. A bike kept outside will rust given enough time, it’s gears etc will also not like being wet all the time. Just as importantly is more likely to get stolen if it is just left outside and I would always rather get on a dry bike then a ...


14

Wash it. Dry thoroughly. You can even wax it if you truly love your ride... Lube the chain Lubricate all pivot points (derailleurs, brake handles, etc) Loosen the tension on the cables and put a small amount of grease on the cable ends. If the hubs haven't been overhauled in a while you can do that. Remove the seatpost and if metal apply a light coat of ...


12

Many bike shops, collectors, or racers hang their bicycles by the wheels. The wheels are made to withstand the weight of the rider while going through road bumps. The forces of a hanging bicycle are way less than anything the wheels are designed for. Some very deep aerodynamic rims (say, Campa Bora) might require some special hook with a wider seat. ...


12

A tarp that fully covers a bike can provide some insulation and keep out precipitation. Don't buy a "bike cover"; they're overpriced, thin, and non-customizable. For an average-sized bike, an 8' by 10' tarp is enough to just reach to the ground. A weight of around 6 oz per square yard, or a thickness of around 8 mils, seems to be ideal (standard tarps are ...


12

A lot will depend on the construction of the helmet. For example the basic material in the helmet will be some sort of sponge or foam which relies on its texture to absorb sudden impacts; does this degrade over time? For example, a loaf of bread gets its texture from the tiny air bubbles formed while rising and proving, but if left to prove too long, the ...


11

Here a few other considerations: Make sure bike is 100% dry Yes oil chain and all other gears, bearings etc... If bike is steel, oil or repaint any exposed metal If bike steel, add nice layer of car wax and buff If bike is carbon, polish with Lemon fresh wood furniture polish If saddle is leather polish'er up with some mink oil or other leather conditioner ...


10

Wrapping with plastic for a season will result in trapping moisture, instead of keeping it out. Moisture will penetrate unless you do something extreme like vacuum-sealing (which isn't practical in this case). You're better off making sure the bike is well-covered to keep off precipitation, but can also breathe to allow excess moisture to evaporate. ...


10

To answer the Kvartal question: no, but in practice if you don't have studs it will be fragile and over time you're likely to pull the screws loose or right out of the wall. If the rack doesn't match up with your studs use a backing board attached to studs and you'll be fine - even a length of 1x4" timber would probably be enough. Don't use any of the ...


9

Doesn't really matter. Just try to avoid really wet places. I have left bikes in the garage for years. Or for months at a time between rides. (Road bike during the winter, while I ride my MTB to work, and vica versa). I have left them standing on the floor. Hanging from both wheels in the ceiling. I recall a thread on hanging from just the front wheel ...


9

The cold won't hurt it -- foam is used to line refrigerators. And certainly if the temp is going "all the way down" to 40F (shudder!) that's not even close to a problem -- around here it isn't even "cold" unless the temp is below zero F. (In general, solid objects are not damaged by cold, though they do often become more brittle while cold and hence more ...


8

It is hard to beat a “Sheffield” stand, as they make it easy to lock the bike and don’t bend your wheels if the bike is knocked over. Cambridge Cycling Campaign did a good write up on the options.


8

You might enjoy reading David Hembrow's analysis of regular Dutch bikes: http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2009/01/anatomy-of-reliable-everyday-bicycle.html Like the URL says: anatomy of a reliable everyday bike. Things like fenders and a fully-enclosed chainguard. Hub gear instead of derailler. Enclosed brakes.


8

Steel frames are strong and durable, but can rust; aluminum would be a better option. (Carbon fiber or titanium won't rust, but these are expensive enough not to want a bike left outside for security's sake.) An internal hub is sealed and will eliminate most drivetrain problems, especially if you don't use a front derailer. In addition, cleaning an ...


8

If by "parallel to the wall" you mean in the same direction as it would sit if it were leaning against the wall then you would probably do well with a rack like I bought when I moved into an apartment last year: This Delta Michelangelo Rack holds two bikes, requires only a single small screw hole in the wall to anchor, and does a good job of holding the ...


8

Your local bike store (LBS) can be an expensive solution in search of problems, if you follow my meaning. Let me clarify: a few years ago I bought a mid-1980's vintage mountain bike which I intended to use for basically the same purpose the OP described. It cost me $20 at a garage sale. It had been a few years since I had been on a bike, so though I once ...


7

A lot of this is guesswork on my part. Entire bike: I would deflate the tires, keep them on rims if possible, and hang the bike up. Putting weight on the tires when they're deflated is probably bad for the tires -- and for the rims. Rims with tires: I would follow zigdon's answer and hang up the rims and deflated tires. Bare tires without rims: I'd ...


7

The trick is to use the strength in your legs plus leverage to lift the bike. It is so simple I can hang my bike up one handed. Lock both front and rear brakes Walk backwards, resulting in the bike being vertical in front of you, with you standing behind it holding the handlebars Feathering the rear brake, manoeuvre the bike in location below the hook. The ...


7

You will not damage a suspension fork by hanging it upside down. Although the fork is air sprung it also uses oil for dampening in one of the legs. Oil may leak if your seals are degraded. The seals in suspension forks are made to ensure they don't react with the suspension oil. The oil will actually help lubricate the seals. This is the same for coil ...


6

Friends of mine use a Two-Bike Gravity Stand, and are really happy with it. It doesn't require any modifications to your apartment, and does a pretty good job at keeping the bikes out of the way. For myself, I installed a pulley system, but that does involve drilling in the ceiling.


6

If you need to fit a large number of bikes into a small(ish) space, hanging them on the wall is usually the best option. The simplest and cheapest route is to mount hooks into the studs which will normally be at 16" centers. If you want different spacing you can mount a header like a 2x6 or 2x8 to the to the wall and attach the hooks to the header. We ...


6

Two things I've done in the past are to screw a hook like this into the wall: a little above the height of the front wheel hub when the bike is standing up, so I could just hook the front wheel to the wall, basically. In my case the hook is high enough up that the back tire of the bike is just off the ground, and is actually touching the wall, not the ...


6

If the bike was in decent shape when put away, and has not been exposed to the weather, there's probably very little that needs to be done. The tires would be the biggie -- likely they're checked and may need replacement (though not for certain). Inflate them to listed pressure and check the sidewalls for cracks or bulges. Assuming rim brakes, the brake ...


5

The recently opened Berkeley Bike Station has a few of these, and I've been quite impressed: They're really easy to use, and are the highest bike/sqft solution I've seen. They also have some of the less fancy ones, which are similar to the solution suggested by Gary.Ray:


5

This link doesn't have printable plans, but a small pic and a detailed description. Basically it's a connected set of slots that sit on the floor. I've seen slot-based racks at triathlons lately. If you are willing to expand your materials to PVC, I have built 4 racks that are variations of this plan. I think this has three advantages over wood: PVC is ...


5

It depends on the storage conditions. If kept at room temperature, not excessively humid or dry, and kept in the dark, they can be stored for a long time. Oftentimes for years. Your best storage bet is to wrap them in plastic and stash them in the back of a closet. I've kept high-end tubulars for two years that way and that rubber is much more sensitive to ...


5

Most bike shops hang a substantial portion of their inventory and repairs upside down to save space. I'm not aware of a fork that cannot be stored upside down. As pointed out by DWGKNZ, forks with degraded seals and wipers may be more prone to leaking since the oil is up against them and gravity + capillary action are at work. Some forks with fancy valving ...


4

Lube and wax. I know there are bike polishes that probably have wax, but I'd get the paste car wax that comes in a can. Really clean the bike, then use the wax on your frame, seat post, fenders (especially inside where they take a beating from road grime while riding), exposed metal, but NOT your rim braking surfaces. Put good lube on your chain. One guy ...


4

I store my bikes in my unheated garage and hang them from the ceiling. I hang them from the frame and not the wheels to make sure that there are no issues with the rims deforming over that time. Otherwise, I don't do much else to them. I don't go out of my way to clean them up as I'm never quite sure when I put them up if it's just for a week or the whole ...


4

So long as the trailer is reasonably weather-tight it shouldn't be a problem. Since there's nothing in the trailer generating humidity, no significant condensation will occur, and, within reason, temperatures won't hurt bikes. (The only caveat would be that you maybe should have some vents that can be opened if temps rise above 90F or so, so that temps ...



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