Hot answers tagged tandems
The Timing chain helps keep the front and back riders pedals rotating at the same time. Depending on your preferences you can set them as "in phase" where both the front and back cranks are at the same point in the rotation, or as "out of phase" where the front and back cranks are offset by 90 degrees. This is advantageous as when one of the riders reaches ...
Edited from my comments above: The first thing I would check is whether the hanger is removable. If it is removable, I would check that it is still bolted securely in place. It's pretty common that removable hangers sort of overlap with the dropout. So it's possible that the hanger is loose, and the QR is then clamping it firmly in to place, but then ...
You will need a specialty tool referred to as a crank remover or crank extractor. A Park Tool CCP22 or something similar. I would suggest considering the Park Tool CWP7 or equivalent as it offers increased flexibility. While the CCP22 is suggested for square shaft interface the CWP7 will do square, splined and octolink. While you only need the square type ...
I had a very similar frame on a tandem from Craigslist several years ago. That was a Schwinn. The frame is terribly flexible, you can't put an adult on the rear seat.
Probably not a Claud Butler or a BSA, as the headbadge is the wrong shape. The name on the handlebars and use of Benelux and Iscaselle suggests Italy (and Sturmey was big in hub brakes everywhere, so may not be British-made).
I think it may have to do with the pressure in your tires. I experience this in an overloaded bicycle as the tire pressure drops (over time) the rear wheel will sometimes feel like it is slipping out from under me on uneven surfaces even if I am not breaking and the surface is dry. I never had this problem with higher pressure tires, it only has begun since ...
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