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The first thing you need to recognize is that you literally have less than half of your original stopping power. Riding without a front brake puts excess strain on your rear brake. You are very dependant on your front brake for the majority of your stopping power, especially when trying to stop quickly, as momentum will load your front wheel while ...


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Quickly move your weight back first and then low. The momentum and force put in this movement should exactly match the force you put on the lever. If you do it well enough then the rear wheel will not skid and you'll have achieved maximum stopping power with the rear only. I do this often when I'm bedding new brake pads on the rear brake. p.s fix your front ...


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As someone who uses their rear brake far more than their front, I feel qualified to answer this. My normal riding style (for better or worse) is rear brake heavy on my winter bikes. I have a tendency to allow my front wheel to track and lock/drag/skid my rear wheel when cornering on snow. I am very comfortable with my rear wheel sliding and to some ...


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Yes, there's a technique, however I strongly recommend you to fix the front brake. Rear only is dangerous. The rear wheel tends to block much sooner than the front one because of reasons you mentioned in the question so the obvious way is to avoid blocking as much as possible. First, you can emulate ABS on the car by quickly pressing and releasing brakes in ...


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A technological solution is a Dropper Seat Post. But you should really learn to switch legs to match the turn. You generally want the outside leg down and weighted. http://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/P2PIcover.png


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I believe popular advice for MTB carving is to drop the outside pedal, rather than keeping the pedals horizontal. If you then dump your weight to the outside pedal (off your bars) you can lower your center of gravity some and in the case of pumping that weight dump, increase your traction. While keeping your pedals horizontal for obstacles increases your ...



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