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Yes - take off the tire and the tubeless valve, clean up the rim, put on some new rim tape and then install a tube + tire. If you're running tubeless and you have a failure, you can always just pop a tube in and continue your ride. And tubeless has its advantages (lower pressures since you can avoid pinch flats), so you may want to embrace it.


Clearance is clearance. It will work fine until your wheel goes out of true, or you ride in conditions that produce 2mm of extra width on your tire (mud, snow, etc). Or alternately some combination of the two. Depending on your frame material (I am too lazy to look yours up, but I'll assume steel) it will probably rub on almost every ride at some point ...


Note that riding in the wet is generally more risky than riding in the dry since things are indeed slipperier than in the dry. Relatively innocuous things in the dry become hazardous in the wet regardless of your tire type (such as wet leaves). Wet also is accompanied by oil in many cases on the road, especially if rain hasn't washed the oil from the cars ...


There are more variables that you are missing. Rim width is also a factor as well as the tire "setup" itself (tubeless or tubed). So all the variables you would be looking at are tire width and size, rim width, tire pressure and wheel setup (tubeless or tubed). For any or the data to be meaningful, you'd need all of that data. Generally you will get the ...


I found this image on "the web." It doesn't give a comprehensive answer to your contact patch comparison request, but it gives a pretty clear idea of the difference.

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