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10

I figured out a solution. The thing that is supposed to stop the inner tube from expanding into spoke holes is called a rim tape. The tape that came with the bike is really flimsy. I'll purchase and apply a high pressure rim tape. Hopefully that would fix the problem. Update: I've decided to go for a cotton rim tape as they're more durable than rubber ...


8

The QR interface is designed such that the axle is fully seated in the dropouts before engaging the QR. The QR engagement should be firm, but it is not designed to hold the wheel in the way you describe. Dangers of trying to do what you suggest are: Severely over-tightening the QR (which you may need to do to keep the wheel in place) could potentially ...


6

Those strings are quite common with continental tires and seem to be a part of their manufacturing process. Every continental tire I have owned seem to have some of those threads, even ones that mounted relatively easily. I just cut them off and have never had an issue with them. Continental tires are also well known for their tight beads. The high-pressure ...


6

It looks as though you're confused about the range of allowed tyres on the rim vs the tube. What connects the two is the size of the tyre you actually have. There are two independent ranges. The rim is rated to take tyres in the range 28 to 38mm wide. Your tyre will be an exact size, and ideally should be within that range. You can measure the width or ...


6

The difference in rolling resistance is small but can be seen in time trial results and maybe in mass start races. The more noticeable difference is that typically race tires have smoother ride because the thinner casing transmits less vibration. Note that the categories are not clear and one manufacturer's tire marketed as training tire may have less ...


6

Your bike had these tyres as stock in 2015 Cross 40c Front - Cross 40c Rear according to http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Merida-Crossway-40-2015-Hybrid-Sports-Bike_74298.htm 2014 version was listed as Tyres: Cross 700 40C So you have a 700c rim which can take a 40mm wide tyre. Confirm this by looking at the sidewall of the tyres, it should say 622-40 or 40-622 ...


5

If this helps at all, I used a set of Marathon Plus tires on a cross-Canada tour last year (8200km), plus a bunch of commutting, totaling about 11,000km. I did not get any flats at any point, but by the end of that distance, the rear tire was pretty bald and I decided to stop using it. Here's a picture of the tires around 10,000km, front tire on the left ...


3

The hardest to fit tyres I've ever dealt with were continental comfort contact (and I run marathon plus which are reputed to be difficult). Like yours they needed serious overpressure to seat, even after wetting the rim. After several years fitted they're still going strong. I had to change a tube in one recently and it was much easier but still hard to ...


3

In my experience, tires should be replaced after 4-5 years, regardless of # of miles/KM. The rubber dries out, cracks, and it is easier for debris to puncture old rubber.


3

Training tyres are somewhere in the product line below race tyres but above economy tyres. They should cost around the same as a touring or commuting tyre, cost less than a race tyre, and will cost more than a budget tyre. Training tyres will have more durability than a race tyre, but will be slightly heavier. The idea is to save your valuable race rubber ...


2

A cheap solution: regular Duc-tape works really well. Put a separate piece over each hole, in case you need to replace a spoke. I've also used it to tape the rim tape directly to the wheel when an old one broke.


1

The word is SPRUE and can present as a short rubber "hair" 1-2 milimetres thick, or a long thin straggy line around the tyre, somewhat like a fish fin. If your rim tyre is too narrow for your tyre then its possible for the edge of the rim to wear on the tyre. This could produce threads that really are thread, instead of rubber. I've never seen this on ...


1

I replace mine when I start getting punctures. That's normally some time after I have a strip of blue all the way round, and before there's more than just odd spots of black showing through the blue. I've done that with several of them, and it seems to be pretty consistent. But as Steve says, four or five years might also be a good time to replace them, but ...


1

As well as checking for debris in the tyres, applying the patch properly etc., you need to be careful not to give yourself a "pinch flat" when you put the tyre back on the rim. This is caused when you trap the tube between the tyre and the rim, putting a fresh hole in your recently repaired tube.


1

You should use the tyres that fit the rims on your bike. If you were a professional you'd use whatever your sponsor told you to, so that's a bit of a side issue. Tubulars are back in the MTB world, but they're still rare and it's unlikely your bike has them. I suggest not buying a tubular wheelset, let your sponsors do that when they decide it's a good idea....


1

I'd like to introduce another axis: Tire material. Soft grippy material vs. Hard less grippy material. The Soft grippy material has the advantages on grippiness, smoother riding, less rolling resistance, but has the disadvantages of getting more flats (for the same thickness of material) and of wearing out faster. The reason for getting more flats for ...



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