Hot answers tagged tools
14
A mobile phone. These days, irrespective of where you're riding, what you're riding and over what terrain or distance, there's no excuse for being deliberately out of contact. We can't guarantee being in an area of reception, but if you haven't got a phone you'll never know.
Additionally, a huge benefit of smart phones are the apps that can do more than ...
13
I would classify tools into two groups. The ones you ride with, and the ones you keep at home. There may be a bunch of overlap, but it is harder to work with a multi-purpose tool, so if you end up using one tool all the time, a purpose-specific tool may be worth the purchase.
Tools to carry with you:
Tire levers.
Patch Kit.
Multi Tool.
There are a ...
13
Minimally, you want to be able to tighten all of the bolts on your bike (likely a few hex keys will do this) and an appropriate screwdriver for adjusting derailer & brake pulls. Separate from a multi-tool, a pair of tire levers are the other tool you should carry with you.
I would add a chain tool to the above list after being left in a state where I ...
11
It depends to what level you want to disassemble. For general cleaning your list is a good start. As you dig deeper though you'll also need:
To service/adjust drivetrain
Various spanners and screwdrivers to adjust cables
Wire cutters if replacing cables
To service wheels/hubs
15mm spanner to remove wheels (unless you have quick release hubs)
Chain ...
11
The 'official' tool that engages with that bumpy collar is the Shimano TL-PD-40 bearing shaft removal tool. It's a plastic tool designed to be used with a larger wrench, or a vice. Here's a pic:
TL-PD-40
If you're interested in servicing your pedals using this tool and others, here's a how-to from Park Tool: ...
10
Here's what I normally bring:
Spare tube
Tire levers (for changing the tube)
Pump (or CO2 inflator)
4, 5, and 6mm allen wrenches (for adjusting/tightening the saddle or seat post during the ride, but also to tighten many other things on the bike that could come loose)
To me, for the long rides that I do, everything beyond this basic equipment provides ...
10
Interesting tool. I haven't used one but can sympathize after breaking many tire levers with my old tire+rim combination. It's no fun being in the middle of nowhere and snapping a lever while fixing a flat. I've since switched tires (and later the rims) and can now roll the tires over the rim by hand -- what a difference!
Unless you plan on taking this ...
10
For repairs, I always carry with me:
a saddle bag to conveniently carry all my supplies
a multitool for adjusting anything, fixing the chain, and anything else
a spare tube to repair flat tires
two CO2 cartridges and a CO2 nozzle to inflate my tires back up to high pressures; I bring two so if I waste one on a punctured tube, I have a backup on hand
a pair ...
10
In my opinion, minimal set of what to carry:
Water (bottle in a bottle cage)
pump, CO2 valve and a couple CO2 cartridges, or a pump with the CO2 valve and 1 CO2 cartridge. CO2 is faster and smaller, but you can basically only handle as many flats as you have cartridges.
tire levers (2 is easier, 1 might be sufficient)
1 spare tube
patch kit (pre-glued ...
8
I've used a Quik Stik for about 17 years pretty successfully. Not totally free of pinch flats, but I think using darkcanuck's technique of putting a bit of air in the tube first really helps. Much better than regular tire levers, although it actually seems to be softening after all these years. Rumor has it that certain brands of kevlar-beaded tires are a ...
8
You can easily find a "bicycle multitool"/"multi bicycle tool"/"bike multifunction tool" that covers all the basic essentials in one tool. There's tons of brands and models and what's most readily available may vary regionally, but common brands I've seen are: Park, Crank Brothers, Topeak, Serfas.
Where? I would go to my local bicycle shop to get them, or ...
7
You can't approximate torque by feel. Loctite, grease, carbon compounds can all alter the 'feel' when you are tightening down bolts and if there was anyway to 'approximate the feel' these variables render it fairly impossible.
If you use ti/aluminum bolts, carbon components, high end aluminum do not cheap out, get the torque wrench.
If you tend towards ...
7
Seems that we are going a bit heavy on carrying the tools here...
I would advise that you prepare the bike beforehand so that it is not going to be a problem on the road. That means getting it working mechanically perfect a few weeks before you go rather than the night before. Far too often a service will introduce problems, e.g. a bolt that has been put ...
7
There are several versions of SRAMs power links. The original versions were intended for reuse, and you would have no problem using them in that manner. If you have an 8 or 9 speed bike, you've got one of the original designs.
If you have a ten speed SRAM drivetrain, then you need to look at the link and the model of the chain. SRAMs newest power links for ...
6
The number-one situation cyclists will face on a ride (aside from experiencing the awesomeness that is riding) is a flat tire. To fix that, you'll want either a spare tube or a patch kit -- or both. Of course, these are useless without something to pump them up! A frame pump or a C02 inflator will take care of that. Make sure to bring a cartridge for the C02 ...
6
The first one -- the simple Park Tool gauge, is perfectly adequate for most uses. It provides two levels of indication, and is reasonably inexpensive and foolproof. The second one is maybe a little better, in that it gives you a sense of how close to the "break points" you are.
With either of the first two, and some other designs, one needs to be careful ...
5
This link doesn't have printable plans, but a small pic and a detailed description. Basically it's a connected set of slots that sit on the floor. I've seen slot-based racks at triathlons lately.
If you are willing to expand your materials to PVC, I have built 4 racks that are variations of this plan. I think this has three advantages over wood:
PVC is ...
5
In my area, Community Cycles is a non-profit organization promoting bike riding. For a modest membership fee (less than the price of a torque wrench) one gets access to their bike shop's tools. Their site includes a list of other bike collectives in North America, which might be a good alternative to buying your own tools each time you need a new one.
5
Information about the specific components would help. I am not sure what will break first, but the derailleurs will probably be the first component to need servicing - especially if you purchased this bike from a sporting goods retailer instead of a bike shop. Brakes will probably be needing some love in the near future. If you ride on trails at all the fork ...
5
Lessee -- roughly in priority order --
Water. Even on a short 30-minute ride I always carry water. Not that I drink that much on a short ride, but should I fall and get "road rash" a squirt of water can quiet the burn and make it possible to complete the ride in relative comfort.
Spare tube, tire "irons" (I prefer a "Slick Stick"), and a decent frame ...
5
I don't have the wit to convey the knuckle on chain-teeth pain that happens when taking old pedals out, however, how about 'backwards in, forwards out' ?
The thinking being that when you put new pedals in you have to turn the chainset backwards with your trusty 15mm spanner on the pedal and vice-versa for taking old pedals out.
5
I'd bring a spare tube and a CO2 inflator; these are light and small, and you might even be able to fit a spare cartridge or two. Actual pumps are bulkier, and the smaller pumps without a hose tend to do a terrible job, particularly with the slightly more Presta valves you find on road bikes. (I'm assuming from "fitness bike" that you're talking about a road ...
5
Yep, a chain tool, or "chain breaker". They come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes.
You should note that a given width chain needs a specific chain tool, so the one you have may not work well with your chain.
And never just get a chain tool and trust it to work (and be workable by you) without trying it first on some scrap chain of the appropriate ...
5
For the lockring a hammer and screwdriver works sometimes, but you end up damaging everything involved except the hammer, sometimes to the point that you can't get the lockring tool to work after the fact.
Get the lockring tool. There are semi universal ones that work ok. The type that are designed to fit specific lockrings (ie 3 slot, 4 slot) work much ...
5
The pad spacer is intended to prevent you from accidentally closing the brake without the rotor in place. It is not required, for any part of the adjustment or installation process, as long as you do not need to bleed the brakes, and as long as you refrain from squeezing the lever without a wheel in place.
If you do need to bleed the brake, it is ...
4
Here's what usually I'll bring on commuting more than 50km:
tire patching kit (tire lever, patch kit)
spare tube (actually it goes first, if its get another failure, the i'll go with the patch kit)
multi-tool (never hurt for me to add few ounce to more than allen key)
human repair kit (aka. first aid kit), you'll never know what happens next
additional ...
4
i might be a wee bit excessive but just for everyday commuting i carry:
patch kit
spare tube x2
hand pump
foldable tire
multitool
pocketknife
first aid kit
chaintool
tire lever x2
allen keys
dumbbell wrench
also this is the greatest cycling wrench ever
...
4
Cheap “mountain” bikes are not up to mountain tracks! If you would not consider walking along the track in a pair of sandals, then the bike will likely break very soon if you use it on the track.
However cheap “mountain” bikes are good on roads that have some pot holes and are easier for most people to ride then a road bike (but a lot slower). They also ...
Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible
