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15

This is what I tell everyone to get first when they get a new bike: Seatbag, to hold the following: Spare tube (maybe two) Small multitool Mini-pump or CO2 inflator Tire patch kit 2x tire levers That assumes you have bidons and cages. Those six things should get you by for many miles and should get you out of any trailside emergencies. As with ...


10

This is not going to work. You won't permanently change the shape of the rim by just smooshing it between two concrete discs, as in order to permanently bend metal you need to exceed the yield stress of the metal and plastically deform it. This means that to bend something to a shape, it has to be precisely bent further than its ultimate designed bend, then ...


7

A road groupset usually consists of a number of parts. There are not many tools, and they are generally not that expensive. With all the resources out there (youtube, sheldon brown website, etc) and basic mechanical aptitude it isn't a difficult task. You need basic hand/bike tools, (hammer, metric allen keys/drivers, screwdrivers, pliers, socket set, ...


6

Bicycle Helmet Suitable clothing and shoes Cellphone Whatever else you "need" depends on your mechanical abilities and how independent you wish to be.


6

The wheel should run true radially (up/down) axially (sideways) and should not be twisted (as each spoke applies force at its eyelet, a weakened rim might twist, and this twist might not be noticed whilst truing out axial deflections). The form of the bead interface should be consistent, no dents in any direction (unless the rim is for tubular "stick-on" ...


5

I measured my PCS9 at: a) 70 cm (27.5") b) 115 cm (45")


5

From the Park Tool support site, here: Base when open forms a triangle of 36” (92 cm) x 36” (92 cm)x 45” (115 cm)


4

It's hard to tell whether your crank is a classical design or something new and weird. For the classical design you use a "crank puller". or These look sort of like what you show, but you notice the "barrel" is threaded. You remove the bolt holding the crank on (using a standard "Allen" hex wrench) and then thread in the outer barrel of the puller, ...


4

Tools will be dependent on the standards of the bike. A overview would be: General bike stand grease carbon paste torque wrench Headset tools to chase and face head tube bearing press crown race setting tool steerer cutter Drive Train tool to chase and face bb bb bearing press or bb spanner chain breaker cassette tool cable cutters cable ...


3

I've built pretty similar bike recently (5800 groupset, chinese frame), here's the list of tools used: 2-14Nm torque wrench with a set of hex heads. Without it you might crush carbon fiber parts. Hex keys set. Phillips screwdriver. Used only for derailleur adjustment. Bottom bracket tool that came with SM-BB6800. If you didn't get one, make sure you buy ...


3

I would go for a good floor pump, as I find it can be extremely important in preventing flats. One big problem I see is underinflated tires. This can cause flats and other problems like rim damage. A good floor pump will make it not so much of a chore to ensure your tires are always properly topped up. If you plan on leaving your bike anywhere except your ...


3

According to the website for your bike (http://2014.merida-bikes.com/en_int/bikes/cross/cross/2014/crossway-40-md-390.html), you have an SR Suntour XCM crankset. The documentation for that crankset (http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/bike/chainwheels/XCM-XCM-T428-SQ-OCTA-4212.html) indicates it's compatible with this bottom bracket ...


2

I have never had a problem with Allan keys rounding. Using the correct size, using them correctly (Inserting them fully and not letting them slip out the bolt) and not using too much torque for the bolt size means even cheap Allan keys will last a lifetime. If the bolt head has rusted or has gunk in it, you sometimes cannot easily get the Allan key in all ...


2

The best ones by far: Shimano TL-CN40, TL-CN41 or TL-CN42. Unique amongst chain tools in that they are as accurate as the ruler method, with the ease and quickness of the slot in tools. They are the only "tool" to do this, i.e. they measure pin wear only, roller wear (which does not matter) is eliminated. Not cheap though, but they are the best and ...


2

So, these are all "back of the envelope" estimates... The actual measurements will vary but it will give you an idea. You should maybe send an email to Park or stop by your LBS if they carry these stands confirm the measurements and check my math. Assumption 1- Leg Length From the park tool site link it says that the whole stand folds to 41". If you watch ...


2

Assuming you've got the right direction you're turning and its still not budging, use some penetrating oil and/or borrow a breaker bar/vise (and use it carefully). One of the things with your style of tool vs the park tool style of tool is that you can't get as much torque on. In the case of aluminium, its conceivable that theres some corrosion, but ...


2

All other things being equal, T-shaped Allen wrenches will work better than L-shaped Allen wrenches. When I say T-shaped Allen wrenches, I'm talking about wrenches like these: as well as the 3-way hex wrenches like the one you mention: This is because the shape of these tools allows you to exert pressure from directly above the bolt rather than ...


2

It's a spoke wrench. Similar to this one: http://www.btosports.com/p/bikemaster-spoke-wrench


1

If you already have the usual tools and clothing you can always need more of the typical wear parts: Tires, tubes, chains, brake pads, chain oil, cables, pants … Otherwise I’d start with a proper stand pump, mini pump (for on the bike), tubes, chain tool, hex keys, lock, bottles, helmet … Clothing is of course essential but hard to guess the right size for ...


1

I think the best option is to buy a digital torque wrench adapter (for example, this) and check if your wrench "clicks" when the adapter is showing the desired value. It's a bit pricey, but that's how it is, and you can use it many times. You can also send it to a specialized place that do that for you, such as this, but although I am not sure how much this ...


1

How about this: attach an extension that can be clamped in a vise such that the handle of the torque wrench is horizontal, and its own weight is applying torque that attempts to rotate the extension around its axis using some wire or string, attach an empty 1 liter plastic bottle to the handle of the torque wrench adjust the setting of the wrench such that ...


1

The COMPLETE set will likely cost more than 3x the cost of your frame and parts. The tool to prepare a bottom bracket is almost 500 bucks all by itself. So I'm not going to answer "the COMPLETE set", especially because your copy/paste wall of text doesn't indicate all of the exact specifications for all your parts, which is needed to know exactly which ...


1

So I ended up bringing the bike into the shop. The friendly bike mechanic had let me borrow and old bottom bracket tool because they didn't have any other tools in stock. Long story short, he ended up using a 6 foot pipe on his bottom bracket tool to get it to move. The tool by itself did no good and the impact wrench did nothing. I think I'm going to buy a ...


1

FWIW, I have found allen wrenches that have a ball end to generally be of higher quality and less likely to round off. My experience is that generally the wrench fails long before the bolt. If the wrench gets rounded off, you need to stop using it ASAP. If you are doing lot's of your own bike work, it's worth investing in a set of T-handled allen ...


1

I'm not a metallurgist, but I would think that once the rim is bent enough that you're looking to straighten it, it's been weakened enough that I wouldn't trust it for riding on.


1

http://www.parktool.com/product/crank-and-bottom-bracket-wrench-hcw-5 This tool should do to remove the lockring at which point the chaincase mount should be able to be removed. The inner indents don't look to match any splined BB tool I've ever come across though.


1

That's the chain guard bracket and it would likely come off with a bottom bracket lockring tool. The fixed cup of the bottom bracket should be behind it.



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