Hot answers tagged tools
13
Minimally, you want to be able to tighten all of the bolts on your bike (likely a few hex keys will do this) and an appropriate screwdriver for adjusting derailer & brake pulls. Separate from a multi-tool, a pair of tire levers are the other tool you should carry with you.
I would add a chain tool to the above list after being left in a state where I ...
11
The 'official' tool that engages with that bumpy collar is the Shimano TL-PD-40 bearing shaft removal tool. It's a plastic tool designed to be used with a larger wrench, or a vice. Here's a pic:
TL-PD-40
If you're interested in servicing your pedals using this tool and others, here's a how-to from Park Tool: ...
5
The pad spacer is intended to prevent you from accidentally closing the brake without the rotor in place. It is not required, for any part of the adjustment or installation process, as long as you do not need to bleed the brakes, and as long as you refrain from squeezing the lever without a wheel in place.
If you do need to bleed the brake, it is ...
3
To follow up on Tha Riddla's answer:
If your freewheel is freewheeling in both directions, in all likelihood it is gummed up inside and the pawls are stuck open. (As a small note: the freewheel is separate from the hub and contains bearings, pawls, springs, and some lubricant.) You can either try to overhaul the freewheel or purchase a new one (they range ...
3
As others have indicated, it depends on both your bike and the type of riding you're doing.
If you're just tooling around town (get it, "tooling"?) with no particular destination or schedule, you can probably get away with not much more than a set of tire levers. A pump is handy too so that you don't have to walk your bike to a gas station if you get a ...
2
I tried making a bike rack like the original poster's sketch, but wasn't satisfied with the result. The bikes aren't very stable because the rack only holds the bottom part of the wheel. It works much better to make the slots vertical instead of horizontal, so almost the full height of the wheel is supported.
I happened to have some six-foot long 2x4s and ...
2
I'm not sure what you're after here. Is your spoke type not available on Park's TM-1 Tension Meter Conversion Table? You're after relative spoke tension when you're measuring your tension as it's going to be different at different points from the hub to the rim. 1600N is well within the range of measurement for the TM-1 on almost all spoke types
2
The term "cone nut", on a bike, generally refers to the nuts that comprise the outer half of a bearing race (the inner half being formed into the wheel hub or whatever). The "cone" side, which faces inward, has a concave profile so that the balls will roll smoothly in it.
It's hard to tell what you have from your description. I do vaguely recall some ...
2
A simple way to never be in doubt is just put the crankarm with the pedal you want to remove in the forward position (3 o clock), attach the wrench, and pull up towards yourself. You can even put your foot on the pedal while doing this if it is hard to remove.
1
In the organisation where I worked, it wasn't a case of the right hand not knowing what the left hand was doing; the right hand often didn't know what the RIGHT hand was doing.
In the case of bicycle pedals, the right foot knows that the right-hand thread is good.
Thanks for the other suggestions, and simply for letting me find out which way they go (I ...
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