Hot answers tagged

16

This is what I tell everyone to get first when they get a new bike: Seatbag, to hold the following: Spare tube (maybe two) Small multitool Mini-pump or CO2 inflator Tire patch kit 2x tire levers That assumes you have bidons and cages. Those six things should get you by for many miles and should get you out of any trailside emergencies. As with ...


11

The little rubber tubes are for repairing Woods/Dunlop valves. The valve core does not have any valve mechanism in itself, but relies on the little rubber tube to seal. The tube fits over rounded end of the valve core shown below. Most of new tubes come with similar-looking valve that has a ball and spring mechanism instead of the rubber tube.


10

Answering as a road cyclist ... For a ride of this duration (less than a day), before starting I take notice of the conditions, and decide what to wear, in how many layers. I want to carry a spare layer to put on during stops, and in case of bad weather. Usually it'll be my lightweight wind and (so called) water proof jacket. Sometimes it's just a ...


6

Bicycle Helmet Suitable clothing and shoes Cellphone Whatever else you "need" depends on your mechanical abilities and how independent you wish to be.


6

My ideal packing includes: Tools: Hex keys to fit your bike : 2mm, 4mm, 5mm the most important, 6mm and 8mm. Some bikes use 2.5mm and 3mm. A T25 driver if you have disk brakes. Phillips and flat screwdrivers. Chain tool and a master link or two (may need to remove twisted links). Tire Levers Patches, glue, extra tubes and pump or inflator. Spare Valves, ...


6

You want to remove the wheels, seat post (you may be able to get away with setting this all the way at the bottom or doing nothing depending on how you're storing it), handlebars and pedals. If you can go to your local bike shop and get a (cardboard) box for shipping bikes, the bike should pack in nicely for storage. This video shows you the steps in a nice ...


6

There are a number of options, and this partly depends on how thorough a kit you need to carry with you. (i.e everything for every job, or a typical mechanic's pit kit) The best traveling tool kit I've found is made by B&W International. Their Bike Buddy case is sold either with or without tools included, and is a carry-on friendly, rolling hard ...


6

I'd be very tempted to make a tool roll. You'll need access to a sewing machine that can handle 2-3 layers of canvas, but even most home machines will do that if you're careful (and buy a canvas needle!) You see them mostly today with sets of ring spanners, made of cheap plastic. But in the older days people would generally make them out of canvas, often ...


5

You need a cable cutter. All of the companies that make tools for bikes make them. Here are a few options: http://www.parktool.com/product/professional-cable-and-housing-cutter-cn-10 http://pedros.com/products/tools/brakes-and-shifting/cable-cutter/ http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1030380_-1___400625 As some of the other ...


5

Everyone's going to have different list depending on how confident they are of getting assistance in an emergency or gear breakage. I do some solo rides into the forests in New Zealand. When in the forest alone I do tend to stick to 4x4 tracks where a may see one person an hour but also take jungle tracks alongside the road and very rarely see anyone. I ...


5

You will want: hex/allen key set (check standard vs. metric) pedal wrench ratchet set or box wrenches (crescent wrench as last alternative) gardening gloves to keep your hands clean Ensure that you do not strip the fasteners as metric/standard can be a very close fit sometimes. Save some old t-shirts or towels to wrap around the drive-train to keep it ...


5

I have 2 torque wrenches. One that goes up to 20Nm and another that goes from 20-60(ish)Nm. The little one is necessary for most of the things on my bike like my headset bolts and hollowtech crank bolts (around 7Nm and 14 NM from memory) and the big one is mainly for the cassette (40Nm) and bottom bracket (can't remember) and (just quietly) undoing stuck ...


4

The little tubes are for Dunlop valves. The tube is pulled over a stem. Air pressure will push the the tube against the stem and prevent the loss of air! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valve_stem If you look at the German translation of the page you find more pictures and one of the tubes in use. This type of valve was much used in England and also in Germany ...


4

Set of Allen (hex) key: usually 4,5 and 6 mm would do the job. You can use these Allen key for disassembling handlebar, stem, seatpost, and most pedals Adjustable wrench or (usually) 15 mm wrench: (check if needed) in order to remove the pedal. You could usually remove the pedal with 8 mm Allen key (sometimes could be 5 mm, 6 mm, or 10 mm). Check if there ...


4

http://www.parktool.com/assets/img/blog/torque.pdf says various numbers from 4 up to 700 inch-pounds. You probably don't need to worry about 4 inch pounds required to screw the bottom bracket axle cap in correctly, so a tool capable of 30-700 would be perfect. You don't need a torque wrench capable of anything above 700/800, because you do not use them to ...


4

The "bottom bracket" assembly is loose. It may just be that it's a one-piece "cartridge" and is rattling around in the frame, or it may be that the unit is "loose bearings" and the bearing caps need to be adjusted. Or there may have been some sort of failure of the bearings. Regardless, the whole mess will need to be disassembled to a degree, and that ...


3

Not much: A mini pump mounted on the bike, spare tube, tire leavers and the hex keys you might actually need in a Frame Bag. 1.5l of water with carbs (glucose and maltodextrin) as food. For longer rides an extra plastic bag with enough carbs for another 1.5l in the jersey. I’m usually experienced enough to pick the right clothing for several hours or a ...


3

You need a large allen key, often an 8mm to tighten that centre bolt right down. It'll pull the crank arm onto the spindle and secure it. The LH-FSA-AL ring is the self extracting bolt, the internal hex bolt pushes on the back of it to pull the crank off without extra tools. That has a left hand thread so that it doesn't unscrew as the internal bolt ...


3

I'm naughty - I use a normal set of 6" side cutters on the inners and outers. On the inners, I use a soldering iron and flux to heat and lightly tin the area where I will cut, then I simply cut it. The solder holds all the strands together, and also makes threading easier. For the outers, I use a super-screw (self-tapping wood screw with a very sharp ...


3

I'm not sure about building a wheel using just the screw slot – I think you could probably do it, but I suspect that it would be a painful process. If you tried it, you'd want to be sure that the spoke lengths were exactly right. Much of the strength of the spoke comes from engaging with the threads in the wider section of the nipple that is on the inside of ...


3

I would go for a good floor pump, as I find it can be extremely important in preventing flats. One big problem I see is underinflated tires. This can cause flats and other problems like rim damage. A good floor pump will make it not so much of a chore to ensure your tires are always properly topped up. If you plan on leaving your bike anywhere except your ...


3

I always say to myself "back off" - as both pedals unscrew towards the back which helps me remember which way to turn.


2

The easiest thing may be to just think of it as applying the same exact force that you would be if you were riding the bike...


2

I think the best option is to buy a digital torque wrench adapter (for example, this) and check if your wrench "clicks" when the adapter is showing the desired value. It's a bit pricey, but that's how it is, and you can use it many times. You can also send it to a specialized place that do that for you, such as this, but although I am not sure how much this ...


2

Exact same problem here. Same bike. I got it off finally by just turning really really hard using a non-torque wrench. Make sure it's rotated so that the two dots are UP (12 o'clock). If installed correctly the lock should be at 12 o'clock when wheels are on the ground. So if you installed it in the wrong orientation (i.e. lock at 2 o'clock or 9 o'clock ...


2

KevinC has the right answer - use either a dedicated set of cable cutting pliers from a bike manufacturer (don't use regular pliers or regular cable cutters, they will crush the housing) or use a dremel tool. If using a cable cutting tool, make sure to either use a deburring tool to remove the sharp edges. Most tools have a deburrer built-in. With brake ...


2

I take a single multitool when I travel to disassemble/reassemble my bike. I have an older model crank brothers tool that they don't make anymore, but something similar is available here. I run pedals that can be taken on and off with a 8mm hex, so I don't need a pedal wrench. Without a complete breakdown of your bike and all it's parts, one would be ...


2

I can't imagine a backpack being a good place for tools in the long run. The lack of structure would drive me bonkers- it'd be so easy to keep losing those little bits in all the cloth folds and seams. If you wanted to go this route, I'd look into bags aimed at photographers since they come with lots of little, structured pockets. This is probably the most ...


2

For the fiddly stuff (screws, cable ends) one of those could work. They are not very durable, but are extremely inexpensive (I got an identical box for under 1EUR). Look in the electronics (soldering equipment, wires, inexpensive speakers, PCB audio amplifiers) kind of stores.


1

My improvised techniques for when nothing else is around: using end cutters / carpenter's pincers :-) It can work pretty ok for some types of cables, but needs a bit of practice. Cutting inner cables. For the simple (not teflon coated) inner cables, I never had issues cutting them with sharp pincers or regular cable cutters (though some of these are ...



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