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12

You should find that on those bikes everything is a bit stronger and heavier than a standard touring bike. Not only are they expected to carry more weight, they're designed to be ridden into places where failures are more difficult to recover from. As well, because they're designed to be ridden off road they'll usually have a lower top tube for better ...


9

Their main problem is your first bullet hypothesis: They can't cope as well with sustained braking on descent, as that is where brakes are challenged the hardest. Even with the extra cooling fins, on a long descent, the brake may overheat, and may catastrophically fail. Riders using roller brakes have reported the brakes getting hot enough to ignite the ...


8

'Bulk' is mostly about whether all of your luggage will fit in your bags. ie is the volume of your luggage less than the capacity of your bags. So it depends on how much stuff you want to take, and how big your panniers are. Aerodynamics doesn't really matter for touring. Unless you are cycling rather fast, or it is very windy. Usually the weight of your ...


7

As has been pointed out, closed brakes are not ideal from the standpoint of disipating the energy built up through friction. This has also been experienced in the automotive world, where drum brakes were standard during many decades. Some would say they still are, e.g. on rear axels of light commercial vehicles such as pick-up trucks. However, although ...


4

I am not a doctor, but its sound like you might be suffering Post Traumatic Stress, and should seek professional help to rule it out or get treatment. You should be concerned about the 10 critical accidents (I read critical that as hospital/doctors visits and time off school/work, not a mere "off" ). You are likely riding beyond you limits, and need to ...


3

I think you would find the bike handles reasonably on single track, 4x4 tracks and dirt paths but there are a few things to bear in mind. I'd ride single track but stick to trails graded easy. Where an MTB would be mandatory would be anything above that. The following features would require a MTB (or at least no gear or being on a short ride ie. mud). ...


3

I researched more on this topic. The short answer is that an aluminium frame can last from a couple of years to 50 years/lifetime. The long answer is: The main factor is fatigue (not counting accidents): "The tendency of a material (metal) to break under repeated cyclic loading at a stress considerably less then the tensile strength in a static test." ...


3

Expedition bikes You will see "expedition" bike at manufacturers who are specialized in touring bikes, and have many models. The marketing department needs to differentiate somehow, so the common groups are called trekking, touring, expedition. But this can vary, and for me the expedition is usually the top bike in their offering, with the most expensive ...


2

If you would like to change to the FC-M660 cranks you are going to have to purchase a new hollowtech ii compatible bottom bracket and change everything. The octalink is a cartridge bottom bracket and the hollowtech ii is an external bearing bottom bracket. The cranks aren't compatible between the two interfaces. You can get away without a crank bolt as this ...


2

Here is another take on "bulk". At the time I completed the tour this photo was taken on I was using a home made quilt as my sleeping "bag". The quilt is the item in the blue/gray Sea to Summit dry bag sitting on top of the Extrawheel Voyager trailer. Now the quilt is not that heavy but it is clearly quite bulky taking up a lot of space, so much space that ...


2

I switched from an aluminum fork to carbon and the brakes howled like crazy. I went the usual route of cleaning, adjusting etc. What worked is counterintuitive, but I toed the shoes out. The noise went away immediately. I read somewhere that it can have something to do with the harmonics of the carbon fork. So I have the rears toed in and the front toed out ...


2

I have a bike with cantilevers and I can understand the frustration. I spent a lot of time last summer getting my brake pads aligned properly so they didn't squeal. In the end I got it to work with the brakes I had, but it took quite a lot of futzing around to get the angle just right. Some people recommend getting a fork crown mounted cable stop to ...


2

This bike is a poor choice for any touring where you have to carry things (if you're doing a supported tour, you may be able to pass with it). It doesn't have rack+fender mounts and doesn't have particularly tough wheels. Depending on the type of touring you're doing, you should look at some touring bikes like the Surly Long Haul Trucker or Trek 520. ...


2

Bang for buck would suggest an aluminum rack, but these typically don't support high loads. Once you start heading into the 20-30+ kg range steel performs better in terms of total load capacity and behavior under load (I.e., less flex which reduces the chance of a shimmy). In terms of steel I have had good luck with Tubus and hear good things about Surly ...


2

If you're friction shifting go with the Dia Compe. They have a ratcheting mechanism in them originally developed by SunTour to counteract the spring in the derailleur. This gives them a very even feel in both directions - you apply as much pressure to upshift as to downshift. They also look better on older bikes. The Shimano shifters OTOH rely purely on ...


2

Dutch town bikes are the norm in Japan (I live in Japan BTW). Most Japanese Dutch style bikes have a rim brake up front and a drum brake in the rear. Rim brake is for help going down hills and the like. As mountainous as Japan is the cities tend to be flat with hills. Most Japanese ride down hills no problem on a dutch bike. However, most Japanese walk their ...


2

Sheldon Brown has this to say about disadvantages of roller brakes: Disadvantages? [...] Only large Rollerbrakes with large cooling fins have enough heat dissipation for speed control on downgrades -- no Rollerbrake is suitable for use as a drag brake on a cargo bike or tandem. There have been reports of grease's catching on fire during long descents! ...


1

I would suggest a serious conversation with your local bike shop(s). Do your research, identify what you want, and ask them to do a bike fitting and order the correct size for you. The idea is to encourage them to invest in you while you invest in them. They may want a deposit up front. But if you can convince them to get what you want, you have started a ...


1

I also like speed and racing, but after some close calls (nowhere close to yours) I decided to push my limits going UPHILL, go faster in that 17% climb where 10 mph is the speed of light. And outside of bicycles, there are infinite challenges, running a mile under 5 minutes, learning to swim butterfly, or in strength training, going for the gimnastic ...


1

I would try something less expensive first. For me, switching to Kool Stop brake pads has worked even better than toeing in when in resolving this type of vibration. I'm not surprised that replacing the front wheel didn't affect the problem since it's not likely to be the cause of the vibration.


1

I haven't built a bike trailer but used a B.O.B. Yak for a trip from the UK down through Europe. It was a great trailer and we were able to fit a large 2-man tent in there plus other stuff. We also had front and back panniers. See here: http://www.bobgear.com/bike-trailers/yak I now use a Burley D'Lite with 2 toddlers in it. Even though you could fit ...


1

Yes, you can use that bike for touring. Probably not "proper loaded touring" which is the most traditional type, but light touring, i.e. sleeping in hotels and not carrying a lot of food or luxury items like a laptop. You have a few options to outfit the bike with a modest amount of cargo capacity: Tubus Fly Classic rear rack with the Tubus QR axle ...


1

I also have enjoyed riding with a Cannondale Headshok (Silk Tour 700). I agree with you, weight and stiffness are non-issues with HeadShok type suspension, I think they are fantastic for producing a comfortable aluminium tourer but I may be biased! I think that people who have not riden this type of shock don't understand its advantages. When it is locked ...


1

Same frame material. Not sure why it's not more detailed on the Elite specs, but there are several shops marketing it that reference the same frame materials as the Comp, like this one. Makes sense when you think about it. The Comp and Elite ultimately refer to different component packages (just like those annoying and less meaningful letters that come ...


1

According to bike rumors, these two bikes have different Cr-Mo tubing, with one being a higher end material. You can find more information here



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