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11

You've got two things going against you: Height: I'd suggest avoiding 700c wheels and going for 650b (pricer) or 26" wheels. For short riders (I'd say shorter than 5'5"), these provide better fit. Surly, for example, only makes their small bikes with 26" wheels. Weight: You're going to have to check each manufacturer's weight limit. Generally, hybrids and ...


8

I took the bike to another bike shop. The man there adjusted my handle bar (apparently when I did it myself, it was not good enough, not straight or aligned). Then he put the bike on a stand and checked gear shifting to all the gears. It all worked fine. He also pointed out the slight rattling noise I heard is caused by the chain rubbing against the ...


7

Your height might be more challenging to fit than your weight; your weight is well within tolerance for most bikes, steel or aluminum. Don't buy a too-big bike; it'll make you unhappy and might even cause injury. Especially at first while you're still getting used to cycling, you will likely be more comfortable with a fairly upright position in the saddle. ...


6

I basically agree with @RoboKaren's answer, but wanted to add a couple of things that would take up too much space for a comment. For starters, you say that the chain mashed up the derailleur. So the derailleur was actually the "victim" of the problem, not necessarily the cause. So while you might need to replace the derailleur, that is likely not the only ...


6

If your bicycle is a BSO (bicycle shaped object sold at discount mass retailers), then likely no. You'd spend $100+ labor on the derailleur and a new chain, but then the next week the brakes would fail, the handlebar would come off, or the frame would crack. BSOs are money pits. Furthermore, it's unlikely you could just replace the derailleur, you'd have to ...


5

A 11 speed cassette would mean a new hub (probably a new wheel realistically) and likely a new derailleur to match the cable pull of the STI shifters plus the labor (this includes installation of the new cable stops, new cables, re-wrapping the bar after putting on the new brifters, etc.). You will also need to spread the frame to get a modern hub in there, ...


5

It really depends on your budget. Shimano 105 is quite a bit better than Claris. Claris uses an 8 speed cassette while 105 uses an 11 speed cassette. This means that 105 will have smaller gaps between the gears if both bikes have the same gear range. There are 2 levels between Claris and 105. They are Sora (9 speed cassette ) and Tiagra (10 speed ...


4

In general, it is a good idea to bring a bike bought online to a shop for a once-over check. What your local bike shop said is exactly what many other shops will/would say. Not that the bike wasn't put together properly, but it should probably be double checked to make that it assembled correctly AND that nothing wiggled loose during shipping. It's a small ...


4

My mother was a similar build before she lost a lot of weight. She is the expert I turned to in order to answer the question... in her opinion a women's Electra Townie, 7 speed with 24 inch wheels is "Great for stability and the size is perfect for a 5"2' frame." She owns one, and rides often. Good luck.


4

Wow This question has provoked some impassioned debate, all in the time it took for my morning ride. Take a step back for a moment. Let's say that you get what you pay for. While not always true, let's go with that for a moment. The guy charging 50 quid is saying a bike service from me is worth 50 quid. Is a bike service worth 50 quid to you? Apparently ...


3

My advice: Buy a used rigid frame commuter bike on criagslist & turn around & sell this one for $80. If you are intent on working on your current bike, try: Have your wheels professionally "trued"at a good local bike shop. They should be able to tell you if the wheel is too misshapen to be trued well. Replace your tires with something like a 26" ...


3

This is what we call a BSO (Bicycle Shaped Object) -- everything on that is as cheap as possible, which makes sinking even modest upgrades into it not really worth it. For upgrading and tweaking, you'd be much better off starting with an old (but decent quality) bike. You'll likely come out monetarily ahead, and have better quality parts to make it easier to ...


3

I've never used Claris, but I've used a bunch of different Shimano road stuff, from 8 to 11 speed, as well as some SRAM. All other things being equal (which they never are), the more expensive Shimano groupset shifts smoother than the less expensive one. That, however, is splitting some really fine hairs. The shifting performance for modern brifters is nice ...


3

I am worried that "brifters" for $50-$60 is low and that you'd be getting some garbage for that price. ($200 for decent brifters seems the norm) A new wheelset adds $300 - $400? $100 for the fork $100 more for incidentals brings us to ~$800 for a bike you'd be happy with (plus what you spent on the bike already). I tend to vote for keeping nice frames ...


3

You mentioned long distance ridding. Here is what I would be thinking about: Comfort When I think about comfort there are two things that I think about. Most importantly I think about handlebars and more specifically how many places you have to put your hands. Drop bars are nice because you get three positions, but I don't like drops when I am riding ...


3

From the pictures you've posted across a few different questions, I can almost guarantee you will not make money selling that bike, no matter what you do to it. At the very least you will need a new freewheel and chain, new tyres, cables, and brake pads. Sadly, those will probably set you back more than you could sell the bike for. Given your apparent lack ...


3

Your current bike has decent wheels and reasonable components. If they have been maintained well I don't think you'll see much difference there other than 10spd gearing. The big change to a new bike in that price range will be the frame. It is much easier now to get a frame that actually fits your riding style, I see you have an adjustable angle stem. ...


2

TL; DR: There is going to be a lot of difference. A 1500 Euro bike today would probably be comparable to a 6-7000 Euro bike from 10 years ago. Elaboration: There are going to be quite a few improvements in the bike due to technology advances and research and development. Some of the base models will not be radically different from your frame, although even ...


2

The two upgrades which make the biggest difference are the wheels and the frame itself. (I know, better shifting is fun but it won't change your speed/distance much) You could also look at getting better tires, but since you have a commuting bike they should already be fine. Given the price of a good wheel set you might be better off with a complete bike. ...


2

I upgraded my road bike from Tiagra to 105 a couple of years ago and noticed a difference, so I imagine you would notice a larger difference between Claris and 105. Crisper shifting in the 105. 105 is worth the $ in my opinion. Frame material is a rider preference. Some are biased against carbon because failure mode is catastrophic. Carbon frames have ...


2

I would suggest first deciding what kind of bike you'd like. Road vs. Mountain vs. Hybrid. Road - more aggressive positioning (lean more forward) for aerodynamic benefits. Thinner tires. Mountain - more upright, sturdy/heavy. Wider tires for offroad Hybrid/Cross - something in between. Usually road type bike with clearance for slightly wider tires. In ...


2

Don't let them con you into spending more money that you need to. You already have a good bike that fits you, just upgrade the shifters and you'll be all set.


2

I'm researching my new road bike too. Here's info on shimano road sets, originally from: http://www.chainreactionhub.com/road/980-our-guide-to-shimanos-road-groupsets-from-tiagra-to-dura-ace with some additional comments by me. Common: All of these have shifter mechanisms in the brakes, so they're "brifters" Nothing road-based has thumb shifters like a ...


2

It really depends on how much your budget is. Usually tires with lower rolling resistance comes a bit, if not alot, more expensive. Sk if you are just going for a pair that's cheap. I think it's best if you go for a 700x30. Since this one has the least amount of tire against the road. I'm also trying to figure out why you don't want to invest in another set ...


1

The best time to get a new bike will vary somewhat due to your region's climate and population density. Bike shops in warmer areas and very large cities are going to sell bikes for sticker price pretty much year round. In regions with a cooler off-season, there will likely be bike shops selling bikes at a discounted price, since they don't move as much stock ...


1

Having upgraded from Claris to 105, I found the 105 to be significantly smoother and more precise and also opens up significantly more cassette options. As a matter of personal preference, I use Ultegra cassettes for even smoother shifting than 105 cassettes on both my 105 (gravel grinder- aluminum frame/carbon fork/ carbon bars) and Dura Ace (road- all ...


1

I've used both 105 5800 and Claris 2300, and while 105 5800 is much better, I think the biggest advantage of 5800 is "upgradability", aka being 11 speed, since you can always upgrade your bikes by purchasing some parts from Dura-Ace 9000, Ultegra 6800, ones from Sram (or even campagnolo if inclined). Of course Shimano will move to 12 speed or higher ...


1

For < $1000 you could get an a much newer bike (< 5 years old) full carbon with brifters and nice wheels. As @mcgyver5 stated, your upgrades on the 1220 will amount to the same money anyway.



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