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10

Probably the best source for answering this is Jobst Brandt's The Bicycle Wheel, the definitive text on the wire-spoked wheel and an essential for anyone interested in the art of wheelbuilding. Excerpted from page 68 of the 3rd edition: Spokes in a crossed pattern are usually interlaced at their last crossing before reaching the rim. Spokes coming from ...


9

A wheel is only as strong as the tension on the spokes. If the wheel was loose for any significant length of time before you noticed it, the spokes will fatigue very quickly, because they are flexing through a range of motion which is not intended. You are a big guy at 95 Kg, so this type of problem is not unusual (as am I). That means that you need to be ...


8

That depends on how good your ear is. If you can tune a stringed instrument effectively, then tensioning a wheel by ear is very effective. Identical spokes that have the same pitch when plucked should have the same tension within the margin of error for any tensiometer reading. The catch is you need a tensiometer to get the relative tone for the proper kg/f ...


8

When I build/maintain wheels, I specifically make an extra quarter-turn to the nipple and then quarter-turn backward to release the rotational tension. This was recommended by Sheldon Brown Lubing the spoke can help, but if your spokes are rusted, you might as well replace them with the new ones.


8

Whenever I get stuck wheelbuilding, I loosen every spoke one turn, walk away and come back in a few hours or the next day. The worst thing you can do is keep doing something that is not providing the results you expect. It is completely possible to overtighten spokes enough that they stretch significantly under the tension. You can even break them with a ...


7

I can't comment on doing a whole wheel this way, but I have seen wheel repairs done this way while touring. It did not work, I suspect for the reason that Jobst points out. The nipples unwound after a few days (at about 100km/day with perhaps 100kg load). Doing the spokes up tighter just broke spokes and stripped nipples. The mutual tensioning effect is IMO ...


7

The rim manufacturer should have this information. It depends a lot on the number of spokes, if the holes have eyelets (metal grommets) and the material of the rim. Lower spoke count wheels need more tension. Generally eyeleted wheels can handle more tension. As for symmetrical tension, that also depends. If the wheel is asymmetrical then your tension ...


6

In his book 'The bicycle wheel' Jobst Brandt, says that double butted spokes will be more resistant to fatigue failure when built into a wheel. This is because spokes break because of the cyclic stress they suffer as the wheel rotates. As the spoke rotates thru the bottom of the wheel it experiences a reduction in tension. Butted spokes are more ...


6

The best suggestion I can make is to read "The Art of Wheelbuilding, by Gerd Schraner". As for materials: Use aluminum, double walled rims. They are stronger, lighter, and believe it or not easier for a new wheel builder to get true and round than steel rims will be. In addition, steel rims for a road bike will be difficult to come by in new condition. ...


6

Place a single leading spoke and a single trailing spoke- both on the same side of the hub- to get your placement correct. That way you only have to unthread two spokes if you're off. Once you've got it right, unthread the leading spoke if you're planning on lacing trailing first or vice versa and proceed as normal with lacing.


6

There's no problem mounting a disc-compatible hub to rim-brake compatible rim. Just make sure they've got the same number of spokes and you're good to go. You're absolutely right about the opposite though, disc brake rims generally do not have a braking surface on them, the rim profile is round there, so it wouldn't work. And if you did try to brake on it, ...


6

You should check the wheel hubs. They may have too much free play. Take out the wheel and wiggle the axle. See Sheldon Brown's page here: http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html The new brake pads may be closer to the rims than the old ones so that the fault showed up.


5

I think radial spokes are generally recommended only for front wheels, because they're weaker than normally-laced wheels especially under the asymmetric torsion applied to the rear wheel. WRT the drive forces: trailing spokes are necessary to transmit the drive force from the hub to the rim; radial spokes would make this transmission very spongy as the hub ...


5

According to the FAQ on their website: Note: PowerTap hubs must be laced with a minimum 2 cross pattern to avoid damage to the hub and maintain the warranty." That suggests that making the non-drive side radial could lead to warranty issues. Radial lacing does stress the flange more than tangential lacing so many hub manufacturers do not allow it. To ...


5

"Burrs on the hub" sounds bogus to me. Could be the case with a new hub, but burrs would be worn away with use. It seems most likely that the hub was reassembled by "unskilled labor" (the new/careless guy in the shop) and he didn't notice that the hub holes are directional -- there is a countersink on one side of the hole and not the other -- or didn't ...


5

As long as you verify the centering you don't need to do separate dishing. You will need the centering gauge: http://www.parktool.com/product/centering-gauge-1554-1 Do read the instructions and get comfortable making the centering adjustment. It's not difficult. Biggest thing to pay attention to is to SLOWLY lower the gauge into place. Happy Riding! (and ...


4

I don't know if this helps, but Peter White is a well-regarded framebuilder and wheelbuilder who has strong opinions on the Wheelsmith vs DT Swiss issue: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/spokes.asp http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/DTspokes.htm The gist of his argument boils down to two (current) main differences: 1) DT Spokes have a 6.3mm elbow length vs ...


4

Another book recommendation: The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt. He covers a lot of engineering detail (forces acting on wheel components, failure modes, etc) but also includes practical step-by-step instructions for wheel assembly.


4

The biggest functional reason actually would be chain line. You could make the hub shell wider, and run an offset dropout to allow the space for the gears, but then you would have to run a similar offset on the bottom bracket to maintain a usable chain line. Running the offset on the bottom bracket would affect Q factor positioning on many riders, and ...


4

The one thing to be aware of is that disk brakes put more force on the spokes during breaking than rim brakes. Mostly this is not an issue as long as you do not use radial spoking. If you build up the wheel with 3x and anything but super silly light spokes, it should be no problem at all.


3

While I believe that Peter White has some good points, DT spokes are widely available in a variety of sizes at (semi)reasonable prices. And for most people they're perfectly serviceable. The difference would be in the lifetime of the wheel before spoke failure becomes a problem, forcing you to relace. For typical road use you might be talking the ...


3

When I bought the carbon 50mm wheels, I put on the yellow velo plugs. I had more plugs than necessary and I made sure the plugs fit snugly into each hole. Some plugs didn't. But I had enough plugs to choose from. Its been over 2 years and I have not experienced any loss of plugs. During those 2 years I had numerous punctures, front and rear and a change ...


3

The main problem in this type of debate is that most people will just quote "accepted" wisdom without personal experience. I will say at the outset that my own experience is limited to small wheeled folding bicycles. I have built wheels for several of these over the years and I always laced them until I came across a set of wheels that had been manufactured ...


3

There are advantages to all of them, but tape has always been my preference. I've used velo plugs, but in my wheels the incidence of loss was too high. They lasted me less than a year, before I lost all the extras, and went back to tape. I don't use rubber rim strips because the rubber degrades, and they move around too easily. I prefer Schwalbe high ...


3

I'd suggest you get a book on bicycle maintenance that includes a chapter on wheel building. I refer to "The All New Complete Book of Bicycling" by Eugene A Sloane (1980) (but there may be something newer ;) ). The procedure is far from simple and straight-forward, especially for a cross-laced wheel (which you probably should do unless you fully understand ...


3

I can't find a current reference or photo, but we used to have one at my previous shop. If I remember correctly it was manufactured by J.A. Stein, but that may be wrong. It was a professionally made copy of a popular homemade wheel building tool. It was called a Stress Relief Box. It consisted of a 6 inch deep box, about 3 inches wider than a 700c rim. ...


3

At first I read you to mean an off-center wheel plane, but not so. Interesting question, i.e. does a bike remain stable/rideable if rear axle is not symetrical? I guess yes, as long as front/rear wheels are in line, but practical clearance issues immediately become apparent. Tolerances in modern frames and wheel-drivetrain designs already nearly max out ...


3

Lubricating the eyelet with oil, and the spoke threads with Spoke prep or linseed oil is recommended. Anti seize is not lubricant. It should not be used in this capacity.


3

Threads are a locking mechanism. The issue is simply the threads are easily damaged and do not properly tighten. They can distort from over tightening, crack ect. To say anti seize does not lubricate is nonsense, that's exactly what it does. It allows the threads slip, tightening properly. The pops you hear removing the nipples are the threads gripping each ...


3

Alloy would save a tiny amount of weight. I wouldn't expect it to make any difference to wheel stiffness, so long as you lubricate the threads when building it (alloy nipples are stiffer to turn otherwise, so it's harder to get the tension right). Brass is stronger, but you shouldn't have to rely on that to get a stiff wheel. But long term, alloy is more ...



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