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what should the tension be for spokes in wheels built up from scratch? High. For the front wheel? High Should the tension be different for drive-side/non-drive-side spokes in the rear? No. Both sides should have high tension. The drive side though does more work though. Some builders prefer shorter spokes for the drive side or simply screw ...


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The rim manufacturer should have this information. It depends a lot on the number of spokes, if the holes have eyelets (metal grommets) and the material of the rim. Lower spoke count wheels need more tension. Generally eyeleted wheels can handle more tension. As for symmetrical tension, that also depends. If the wheel is asymmetrical then your tension ...


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I use the veloplugs, but for touring and commuting I put a strip of vinyl electrical tape over the top of them so I don't lose plugs when changing tires. On a low pressure tire I don't have a big preference.


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Your results seems reasonable to me. While the TM-1 is a useful tool, getting repeatable measurements out of it depends a lot on the skill of the user. I use mine more as a double check to make sure that I've got enough tension in the wheel and that the tension is roughly balanced. If you start out with a straight rim and build a wheel that is true, that's ...


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This blog post (google cache, original gone) on the Park site suggests a range of 20%, this thread has people saying a range of 1 on the TM-1 is fine (edited in some quotes): I sort of try to finish within a 0.1 mm error radially/laterally and under 0.5 notch (of the tension meter) of standard deviation for all spokes. I get DS tension under 1 notch ...



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