New answers tagged wheel-truing
Your results seems reasonable to me. While the TM-1 is a useful tool, getting repeatable measurements out of it depends a lot on the skill of the user. I use mine more as a double check to make sure that I've got enough tension in the wheel and that the tension is roughly balanced. If you start out with a straight rim and build a wheel that is true, that's ...
This blog post (google cache, original gone) on the Park site suggests a range of 20%, this thread has people saying a range of 1 on the TM-1 is fine (edited in some quotes): I sort of try to finish within a 0.1 mm error radially/laterally and under 0.5 notch (of the tension meter) of standard deviation for all spokes. I get DS tension under 1 notch ...
Yes, drive-side spokes have higher tension. Matter of angles -- physics 101 stuff, related to the fact that drive-side spokes are "more vertical" than non-drive-side" spokes (because of the horizontal space taken by the cassette).
If the wheel is symmetrical the spokes should all have the same tension. If dished (what you've called "skew" the bicycle world called dished), the side closer to the centre of the hub will have more tension. All the spokes on the same side of the wheel should have the same tension. Since you have derailleur gears the wheel will almost certainly be dished ...
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