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6

The things that will make a wheel more durable in this kind of service are: Bigger tires – the bigger the tire the more space you have to cushion an impact, bigger tires also mean that the load is more distributed. Since the bigger tire gives you more support you can also run a somewhat lower pressure which means that there is more flex in the tire before ...


4

Have you recently replaced a tire or tube? If so, then the tire may not be properly seated. Remove the wheel, hold it in your lap lying flat, and rotate the wheel around looking at the edge of the rim and tire. You are looking for a "low spot" where the tire appears to "disappear" down into the wheel. It will be slight, but it doesn't take much. My old road ...


4

Ok there are a number of questions in there. 1) 29" vs 26": that's not a question of which would hold your weight better or worse. 29" rolls a bit better, especially over rough ground, so if that's important to you, then go for 29". A bike with a very small frame for a short person, will work better with smaller wheels - i.e. 26" - but at 5'7" I reckon ...


4

Cold setting a 114mm to 130mm is significant. Usually the rule of thumb for cold setting is you can go up one step, such as from a 126mm to 130mm or 120mm to 126mm. A three speed freewheel bicycle is extremely rare and I'd personally leave it alone, it's just too valuable to risk destroying the frame.


4

It seems like it could be: Loose Hub Loose Headset Untrue Wheel Tire messed up one way or another From your description, it's hard to believe that the source is in the rear half of the bike (I'm assuming it also happens when you're not pedaling, correct me if I'm wrong). It seems to be a fairly minor problem (for now at least), that could be very hard ...


3

Take a look at the specs for the rim (or tell us what kind of rim you've got). There are two ways to join a rim. One is to weld the joint, the other is to use a sleeve inside of the rim extrusion that aligns the ends. If your rim is welded, then I would be inclined to agree with Carel. But it if is sleeved then it seems likely that what you're seeing is a ...


2

I have two theories that might explain the wobble you're experiencing. Perhaps both have their part in it. Self stabilizing of the front-wheel (resonance) Usually bikes are built in a way that stabilizes the front-wheel. The term for it is trail (called "Nachlauf" in the image). It's the horizontal distance between the steering axis and the wheel's axis. ...


2

Generally speaking, the deeper the rim the more noise the wheel makes. A pronounced whooshing noise isn't unusual among deep dish wheels and disc wheels (as in the solid wheels, not the brakes) are even noisier. I had Cinelli and Hed discs when I raced and used to love the sound of them (the ride, not so much!) I would personally be very nervous of the no ...


2

The real difference to look for is the axle width and connection method. A "standard" road bike has a 130mm/10mm rear axle and 100mm/9mm front axle that both use a standard quick release. If a set of wheels matches those dimensions and has disk brake compatible hubs, then any difference between road/cyclocross disk will only be in the various details of ...


2

Cyclocoss will tend to be wider to accommodate the wider tires used in cyclocross. And tend to be sturdier. Are you buying the wheels for a road or cyclocross?


2

I believe it is not worth trying it. You risk contaminating, scratching, or bending your rotors, as well as scratching or cracking a brake pad. Consider also whether there are bigger problems with your bike setup if it's too much hassle to remove your rear wheel to change your brake pads — how often does that happen: every 2–3 thousand kilometres? Is there ...


2

It should be easy to replace your wheel. The wheel is a 26" (this is a standard mountain bike size wheel), and you will also need to match it to the right cassette. from looking at your bike, its likely a 7 or 8 speed cassette. Your local bike shop should be able to tell what size cassette you need based on your rear deraileur, which wasn't stolen. With ...


2

It is. The rim joints are never perfect after pinning or welding. Rims that are intended for rim brakes are machined afterwards to have a smooth surface. This rim has instead been painted. The crack comes from the pinned joint. The spokes are pulling the rim together with enough force to keep it from breaking apart. This being said, rims intended for rim ...


1

Yes. Here's a tire size to rim width chart from Schwalbe.


1

According the Sheldon need 25mm for a 2.1" A downhill wheel tends to be strong (and heavier)


1

And these days 27 inch wheels are so old that the problem they have is overtightened spokes. People that do not know how to build wheels properly simply tighten them to pull a wow out of them. This works it's way around the wheel and they keep tightening them until they are at the very limit of their tensile strength. The way to tell is that when spokes are ...


1

The biggest cause of broken spokes, that I know of, is inadequate tension. When the spokes are tight enough they flex a little bit with every turn of the wheel as the spokes at the bottom of the wheel unload slightly and then tighten again as they move around to the top. Over time this bending back and forth weakens the spokes – usually at the bend where ...


1

Nashbar's specs for the rim list the inner width as 16mm. http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_566766_-1___ (click the "Specs" link) This is a fairly standard width for road wheels, so you should be able to safely run any common road tire size (21mm-35mm give or take a few mm).



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