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8

Simple idea - turn the wheel over in the truing stand. The low side of the rim should move to the other side. If the Right-hand side is still low after flipping, your gauge is out and needs calibrating.


4

If it sounds like its rubbing, it probably is. The areas to check are the frame - at the chainstays the frame - at the seat stays mudguards or fenders if you have them rear rack stays rim brakes, both the pads and the brake arms. disk brakes could be a bent disk Do you get the same rub noise when spinning the wheel forwards vs backwards? When you spin ...


3

If your bike is like those pictured then it's highly unlikely unless the wheel gets hit or leant on from the side. That in itself is not implausible in a crowded bike rack. Lightweight road bike wheels are another matter, they have much less lateral strength. Even they would need some sort of sideways force but much less. The big problem with these racks ...


3

If you have checked everything external as per Criggie's answer, then the problem could be wheel bearings. I had the same issue as you describe last year and it was resolved by replacing wheel bearings (fair enough after 8000km).


3

The spokes support the wheel under compressive load. The rim in itself is relatively weak in compression. Of course, losing a spoke means that the remaining spokes have to carry increased load and you risk breaking more spokes or buckling the rim beyond repair. (Note: minor buckles can be removed through "truing" the wheel, a process of adjusting spoke ...


3

You should take it to your local bike shop and get the wheel dished and trued. It is probably a mix of both those issues. Depending on how bad it is you may need to replace the wheel entirely.


2

The two notches are to remove the bearing race and dismantle the freehub body often resulting in tiny bearings going everywhere and there a nightmare to re-assemble. If you want to remove the freehub body intact you need to use a 12mm Allan key from the opposite side of the hub.


2

I ran into this issue on my bike recently. It could be a bent axle, damage on the inside of the hub, or both. If the axle is true, you will need to replace the hub or a whole new wheel. Good news, a new MTB wheel is relatively cheap, on the order of about $50-60.


2

Generally, there are a few wheel sizes for adults on the market now: 700c: This is the standard adult road bike wheel size. For mountain bikes, this is often sold as 29" and is also the standard (where they're said to roll over bumps easier than a 26" but at the cost of manuverability and weight). The rim diameter is 622 milimeters. 650b: This is becoming ...


2

It's rare for a manufacturer to have different wheel sizes for the same model, but it does happen sometimes. Fortunately, it's easy to check the wheel size, it's always printed or embossed somewhere on the tires. Yours will probably say 700c or 622mm or 28 inch - these are all equivalent. One other thing you'll have to consider is the rear dropout spacing. ...


2

Wheel size will remain the same, which is 700c, The different sizes of frames will only effect the overall geometry. So yes, you'll be fine getting a replacement of the same stock size.


2

You need to replace the spokes. Just one is enough to put the wheel out of true. Once the spokes are replaced you use a spoke key (a special spanner) to tension the spoke nipples to drag the rim back into round. This is a fiddly job which takes time, but is not beyond a home workshop. Once the wheel's rim is running straight your other problems should ...


1

These stands don't hold the bike very well because if the friction grip fails, the bike can roll/move backwards and then fall over as the steering turns. So, consider backing your bike into one instead of going in frontwards. Downside as ChrisH says is that your lock needs to go from the rack all the way to the front wheel, or use two locks. Also check ...


1

Handling will also be affected by having a lower centre of gravity. In theory the original wheel size would optimise the bike design and performance, though, as illustrated by Hicks and Criggie considerations.


1

Brakes, tyre clearance, and lowered ground clearance are the three points. If you have rim brakes, give up now. They simply will be wrong, and buying super-long reach brakes will be expensive and won't work very well for leverage reasons. Disk brakes may work okay, provided the rotor lines up, and your fork spacing is acceptable. Tire/Tyre clearance ...


1

If you have disc brakes, all you need to do is find a new set of compatible disc wheels (i.e. the rotor will mount to the front hub, and the rear hub has the right rotor mount and freehub compatible with the number of speeds you want), and you can swap to a different wheel size. Obviously, your tires need to clear the frame still, and the bike will handle ...


1

With the lever open, unscrew the nut on the other side a few turns. Lefty loosey.



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