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0

If the wheel is ruined, as some are stating, then it can't hurt to try to fix it. Go get a spoke wrench and a crescent (adjustable) wrench. If there is a spoke that needs adjusting (out of true, or out of direction which may be do to trying to true without holding spoke in place) take the crescent wrench and adjust it down so it gently grips the flat park of ...


2

You may have damaged your spokes. To be sure... you'd need to know how the wheel was built, but I'd bet dimes to dollars that the spoke was not properly supported while the nipple was adjusted and that is where your twist came from (e.g. they are damaged). Were the spokes held to keep them from turning/twisting while the nipples were being tightened? If ...


0

It's important to avoid twisting bladed spokes as much as possible, as twisting them ruins their integrity. Try using a spoke holder, which you can buy. Either that or you can easily make your own with plastic or wood.


5

I had the same issue and ended up taking a piece of very hardened plastic and melting a thin channel out of it the same width as the thin side of the spokes. In this manner, I could hold the blade in place while I was truing the wheel. I never had problems with them twisting when I wasn't cranking on the nipples, however. To be clear, I heated and melted ...


1

The key factor here is that the air at the hub is dirty - it's been disturbed by passing through the spokes and around the rim, so it's moving faster than the still air at the rim (slower relative to the bike), and it's turbulent. That makes improving aerodynamics both harder, and less important. The damage has already been done. Having a smooth outer ...


4

The answer is yes, a slightly narrower tyre will be fine. If you read the metric numbers off the tyre you're safer, because those have a fixed meaning. Inch sizes depend on the exact context (a 27" road tyre will be too big for a 29" mountain bike rim, for example). You probably have a 45-406 tyre, and are looking at a 35-406 tyre. The "406" part says it ...


2

If the problem happened to me and the noise sounded like it came from the hub, then I would start dismantling the hub to find out what's rattling. Hopefully just removing the quick-release skewer would reveal the problem, if the problem is in the hub. If the sound appeared to come from the rim, then I'd take the tire off and remove the inner tube (assuming ...


4

It could well be a nipple. Or some other bit of metal junk. Removing it is a good idea, just because you never want your bike to make metallic rattling noises as part of normal operation. Over a long time, and lots of wheeling your bike, the repeated banging of that object against the rim will damage it somewhat, but I expect you'd have to wheel it thousands ...


1

We did this in 1996 with a differential mechanism and by nullifying the torque at the steering. It was quite successful with various advantages like easy drive the sandy road / muddy / loose gravel without skidding, and no skidding of bike by turning the steering at max of 90 degree even at high speed. The bike was designed to take different speed ...


2

In terms of tire size, your practical choices on new bikes are between (a) 700c, (b) what's called 27.5 inch (or French 650b), and (c) conventional 26 inch. These are ISO sizes 622, 584, and 559, respectively, where the ISO size is the actual diameter of the rim in mm (whereas most other size numbers are plucked from someone's posterior and have no relation ...


4

Different wheel sizes have different advantages/disadvantages. Larger wheels tend to roll over obstacles better (more comfort), and be more efficient once up to speed. Smaller wheels (generally lighter) are easier to spin up to speed, more maneuverable for highly technical terrain and often thought of as stronger (owing to shorter spoke lengths). While it'...


6

As usual, Sheldon's got the answers. ISO 622 is the unambiguous way of referring to the following rim sizes: 700c (you see this marketing on road, hybrids; this is from the French system; the c is often dropped, but there are rare a,b sizes) 29"x decimal (you see this on mountain bikes; usually only applied to wide rims) 28"x decimal (particularly in ...


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27.5 vs. 29: Determining What Wheel Size is Best For You competitivecyclist.com/learn/27-5-vs-29 according to this article it increases tire serf ace contact with trail. That icreases friction=slow you down A 29'er will be like removing the lowest gear. One crank will move you further but, it takes more energy. Skinny tires reduce friction thus being more ...


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Some of the answer depends on what kind of riding and how much riding you do and how much money you want to spend. As a previous responder indicated some of the stock factory wheelsets are fairly inexpensive. Check Nashbar and elsewhere on the Web. But if you want to buy some time replace the spoke and put some liquid wrench on the spoke nipples and wait ...


6

I have to say I think this is a myth, for a properly built wheel. Spokes have threaded ends which the nipples screw onto. Like almost all screw threads, they are self-locking. Since the spokes of a properly built wheel are under a high level of tension, there is no "play" in the threads. In addition, any torque would have to overcome the high clamping force ...


3

As you ride, your wheel deforms slightly. This allows the spokes to vary in tension over the course of a revolution. If the nipple threads have play in them, then this cyclic weighting and unweighting allows the nipples to move. You may be suffering from low spoke tension over the whole wheel. Spokes twist when the nipple is tightened, which may result ...



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