New answers tagged winter
Almost dismounting the whole bike is way too much work... other options would be much cheaper on your time or - if the bike not too expensive - just leave it outside, protect the cables entry points to prevent water and rotate the wheels 45deg every couple weeks.
My advice is to run one winter and decide in the spring. You would want your nicer wheel to be your summer. Use this is an opportunity to buy a nicer wheel-set. With spacers you can typically get two to align. If is a hybrid you probably have a mid width rim. Rims take a ranges of tire widths. I would stay with same width unless you are making a ...
One of the advantages of having winter wheels is that you can spec wider rims for the winter season. Fatter tires should be able to give you more traction in snow and mud. You can then switch to thinner rims and tires in the spring. Your winter wheelset could be on the cheapside since you're not particularly interested in superlight wheels. You can often ...
I'm assuming you have rim brakes, since you are asking about wear and aligning brakes. Winter riding will wear out everything faster. The rims are going to be wet and dirty for most of the time, and the same goes for transmission. It might be a good idea to use any old equipment you don't care about as winter parts. The exception is that better hubs have ...
http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/04/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-carbon-in-cold-conditions_111530 summarises to "No problems" CF (carbon fibre) components are used extensively in launch/reentry vehicles and satellites where the temperatures range from superheated to near absolute zero. The ultra low CTE (Coefficient of Thermal ...
You'll need gloves that allow you to still hold the bars and use the brakes and shifters. Standard mittens don't work well since you have to grab the brake with all your fingers. Durable waterproof ski gloves with five fingers are one of the best options, especially those which come with a hand warmer pocket for extra warmth capability. Some folks prefer ...
I always find mittens way warmer than gloves. In some cases I even get my thumb out of its own area and tuck it in with the rest of the hand to keep it warm. I still go for skiing mittens, which are pretty good wind and waterproof.
Based on weather in Helsinki, Finland: You'll want gloves with waterproof membrane (Gore-Tex is fine but others work, too) and room for additional thin gloves under them. Gloves made for downhill skiing work well for riding and may be easier to find than winter bike gloves. If your brakes and shifters allow, lobster gloves and even mittens are great.
In all honesty, I think your best bet is Bar Mitts or something similar. They're neoprene covers that attach to your handlebars and cover your hands. They allow you to get away with wearing thinner gloves so you stay a little more dexterous. If you ride drop bars, you're kinda stuck riding on the hoods to stay protected. You can still move your hands to the ...
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